EP1327438A1 - Cosmetic composition and use of same - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition and use of same Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP1327438A1 EP1327438A1 EP03000177A EP03000177A EP1327438A1 EP 1327438 A1 EP1327438 A1 EP 1327438A1 EP 03000177 A EP03000177 A EP 03000177A EP 03000177 A EP03000177 A EP 03000177A EP 1327438 A1 EP1327438 A1 EP 1327438A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- acid
- cosmetic preparation
- skin
- preparation according
- flavonoids
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
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- 229960002715 nicotine Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 229960003512 nicotinic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N nicotinic acid amide Natural products NC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000000041 non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940021182 non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000001473 noxious effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 235000016709 nutrition Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 231100000760 phototoxic Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 231100000614 poison Toxicity 0.000 description 1
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- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000011321 prophylaxis Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009993 protective function Effects 0.000 description 1
- 108060006633 protein kinase Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 230000017854 proteolysis Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008439 repair process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229930002330 retinoic acid Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 229940066675 ricinoleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930182490 saponin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000007949 saponins Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000017709 saponins Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000007789 sealing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000001932 seasonal effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 201000000849 skin cancer Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 229940010747 sodium hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229950004959 sorbitan oleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940032094 squalane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000004936 stimulating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 230000002195 synergetic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000001519 tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003440 toxic substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960001727 tretinoin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019155 vitamin A Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011719 vitamin A Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019160 vitamin B3 Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011708 vitamin B3 Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019166 vitamin D Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011710 vitamin D Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003710 vitamin D derivatives Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940045997 vitamin a Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940046008 vitamin d Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000029663 wound healing Effects 0.000 description 1
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- UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L zinc;1-(5-cyanopyridin-2-yl)-3-[(1s,2s)-2-(6-fluoro-2-hydroxy-3-propanoylphenyl)cyclopropyl]urea;diacetate Chemical compound [Zn+2].CC([O-])=O.CC([O-])=O.CCC(=O)C1=CC=C(F)C([C@H]2[C@H](C2)NC(=O)NC=2N=CC(=CC=2)C#N)=C1O UHVMMEOXYDMDKI-JKYCWFKZSA-L 0.000 description 1
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation and their use for the preventive and regenerative treatment of skinaging.
- Our skin is our largest organ (approx. 2 square meters), it protects it Internal body from physical, mechanical and thermal influences. It prevents the loss of body fluids and the ingress of Microorganisms.
- the skin plays an important role in immune defense and serves as an effective filter for ultraviolet light. It also has Regulation systems for temperature, electrolyte and water balance. Under the influence of sunlight, the pigment melanin and Vitamin D formed.
- the thin body shell is a complex system of different types highly specialized cells and nerve pathways (Father Pacini Lamellar bodies, Merkel-cell-neurite complexes and free nerve endings), Blood vessels and builders, glands and sensors. The visible one Surface as the top cover layer of already dead horn cells responsible for shielding from the outside world and thus fulfilling a certain protective function.
- the dermis consists of the upper papillary layer and the underlying reticular layer.
- UV-B UV-A radiation
- UV-A radiation causes tissue destruction resulting in wrinkles, less Immunity to infections, aging and cancer.
- a cause of the above-mentioned damage can occur in the mode of action be seen by radicals.
- hydroxyl radicals play a major role.
- This very reactive and aggressive molecules lead to the formation of Peroxides. These destroy the long chain molecules of the connective tissue what can ultimately result in wrinkling of the skin.
- UVA ultraviolet A
- B broadband filters
- the present invention has set itself the task of cosmetic preparations to provide not just prophylaxis for radiation-related Reach oxidative stress, but also the causes of intrinsic and affect extrinsic causes of skinaging. In particular, a Relief of skin damage that has already occurred in the form of inflammatory Processes can be achieved.
- Ursolic acid is known as an anti-inflammatory substance. As mechanisms of action are among other things an inhibition of the enzyme systems of lipoxygenase and cyclooxygenase. Ursolic acid was used as an active ingredient known for its positive effects in liver diseases. The mechanism of action the liver protection appears to be multifactorial and is in the The details have not yet been clarified.
- ursolic acid Another beneficial property of ursolic acid is the inhibition of various Tumor initiation and promotion reactions.
- a positive one Effect in topical application is said to be effective in preventing skin cancer consist.
- antiviral agents such as acychlovir in transdermal preparations can improve if you give them amplifiers mixed from Chinese medicine.
- These enhancers include olean acid and ursolic acid in addition to many other plant and fruit extracts.
- retinol and retinoids by adding polycyclic triterpene carboxylic acid such as olean acid, Ursolic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid can be improved.
- Main component is retinoic acid, which is more effective than retinol.
- Glycyrrhetinic acid has a synergistic effect with retinol in inhibiting keratinocyte differentiation.
- US 6,022,558 describes transdermal preparations of oxicams as typical representatives of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents. It is described that Chinese herbal activators accelerate absorption. To this Chinese herbal activators include oleic acid among many others and ursolic acid.
- Flavonoids generally act as antioxidants (especially flavonoids with several free ones OH groups), anti-allergic and capillary sealing and possibly also anti-inflammatory. Depending on their structure, however, one or the other effect is special pronounced.
- flavonoids inhibit protein kinases, elastase and hyaluronidase, Lipoxygenase and cyclooxygenase. The last inhibition tested in vitro both enzymes are closely related to the neutralization of radicals.
- Flavonoids A regenerating effect on inflammatory phenomena is achieved by Flavonoids only possible to a small degree.
- the sole leader Use of flavonoids mostly to yellow the products.
- the low solubility also sets limits on what the concentration of the used Flavonoid compound affects.
- the mixture preferably contains ursolic acid and one or both of the components Oleic acid and flavanoids.
- the skin protection effect is significantly higher than that of the individual substances including the known active ingredients, such as pantothenate and tocopherol. This increase in effectiveness can be seen particularly clearly in the case of mixtures which are flavonoids, Rutin and Naringin included.
- the effect can, however, be supported by natural vitamin E and / or synthetic tocopherols and / or derivatives of tocopherols and / or inorganic and organic zinc and / or selenium compounds.
- the mixture according to the invention has the effect better anti-inflammatory effect (inhibitor of proteolysis), faster Cell renewal (repair effect) through stimulating effect on synthesis of Components of the extracellular matrix, skin tightening and improvement Elasticity of stressed skin and reinforced antioxidant and strengthening Effect.
- Antioxidants such as ascorbic acid and vitamin A can be used as further components and magnesium salts are used.
- Oleic acid (3 ⁇ -hydroxy-olea-12-en-28-oic acid) and its isomer (3 ⁇ -hydroxyurs-12-en-28-oic acid), the ursolic acid are pentacyclic triterpenic acids, the are widespread in natural plants and often as mixtures in different Conditions. Their derivatives are more naturally occurring aglycones Saponins.
- Flavonoids are glycosides of flavones, flavanones and 3-hydroxyflavonones (Flavanole), the isoflavones.
- the combination has proven to be particularly effective the flavonoids rutin (quercetin-3-0-rutinoside) and naringin (naringenin-7-neohesperidoside) shown.
- Formulations according to the invention in the sense of the present invention can as an oil-in-water, water-in-oil, as a solution, multiple W / O / W or O / W / O type emulsions in the form of dispersions aqueous or oily base or in gel form.
- carrageenan 1.50 Gelan rubber 0.30 sodium hyaluronate 0.20 Alcohol denatures 5.00 glycerin 10.00 ursolic 0.20 rutin 0.04 naringin 0.2 Perfume, preservatives, antioxidants q.s. water ad 100
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Gegenstand der vorliegenden Erfindung ist eine kosmetische Zubereitung und ihre Verwendung zur präventiven und regenerierenden Behandlung von Skinaging.The present invention relates to a cosmetic preparation and their use for the preventive and regenerative treatment of skinaging.
Unsere Haut ist unser größtes Organ (ca. 2 Quadratmeter), sie schützt das Körperinnere vor physikalischen, mechanischen und thermischen Einflüssen. Sie verhindert den Verlust von Körperflüssigkeiten und das Eindringen von Mikroorganismen. Die Haut spielt eine wichtige Rolle für die Immunabwehr und dient als wirksamer Filter für das ultraviolette Licht. Ferner verfügt sie über Regulationssysteme für die Temperatur, den Elektrolyt- und Wasserhaushalt. Unter dem Einfluss des Sonnenlichts wird in der Haut das Pigment Melanin und Vitamin D gebildet. Die dünne Körperhülle ist ein komplexes System von verschiedenartigen hochspezialisierten Zellen und Nervenbahnen (Vater Pacini Lamellenkörperchen, Merkel-Zell-Neuritenkomplexe und freien Nervenendigungen), Blutgefäßen und Gerüststoffen, Drüsen und Sensoren. Die sichtbare Oberfläche als oberste Deckschicht von bereits abgestorbenen Hornzellen ist für die Abschirmung gegenüber der Außenwelt verantwortlich und erfüllt somit eine gewisse Schutzfunktion. Von außen nach innen lassen sich 3 Schichten unterscheiden, wobei die Hornschicht, physiologisch betrachtet nur der oberste Teil der relativ dünnen Oberhaut ist, die sich aus weiteren deutlich unterscheidbaren Zellschichten zusammensetzt. Die Lederhaut besteht aus der oberen Papillarschicht und der darunterliegenden Retikularschicht. Ein gut abgestimmtes Geflecht aus Bindegewebe und elastischen Fasern ist in dieser Schicht integriert. Kollagen sorgt v.a. für Festigkeit während Elastin für Elastizität verantwortlich ist.Our skin is our largest organ (approx. 2 square meters), it protects it Internal body from physical, mechanical and thermal influences. It prevents the loss of body fluids and the ingress of Microorganisms. The skin plays an important role in immune defense and serves as an effective filter for ultraviolet light. It also has Regulation systems for temperature, electrolyte and water balance. Under the influence of sunlight, the pigment melanin and Vitamin D formed. The thin body shell is a complex system of different types highly specialized cells and nerve pathways (Father Pacini Lamellar bodies, Merkel-cell-neurite complexes and free nerve endings), Blood vessels and builders, glands and sensors. The visible one Surface as the top cover layer of already dead horn cells responsible for shielding from the outside world and thus fulfilling a certain protective function. There are 3 layers from the outside in distinguish, the horny layer, physiologically only the top Part of the relatively thin epidermis is clearly distinguishable from others Composed of cell layers. The dermis consists of the upper papillary layer and the underlying reticular layer. One good there is a coordinated network of connective tissue and elastic fibers Integrated layer. Collagen primarily ensures for firmness while elastin for elasticity responsible for.
Selbst wenn es hautfremden Stoffen gelingen sollte die mechanischen und chemischen Barrieren zu überwinden, kommt das eigene Abwehrsystem zum Einsatz. Unser Immunsystem hat mit den Langerhansschen Zellen einen Vertreter in der äußersten Körperhülle. Genauer gesagt stellt die Haut selbst ein immunkompetentes Organ dar. Viele Medikamente und toxisch wirkende Stoffe (u.a. Alkohol und Nikotin) können Unverträglichkeiten bis hin zu Entzündungen, die sich in Rötung, Spannen, Hautbrennen und Juckreiz zeigen, auslösen. Umwelteinflüsse, Stress, falsche Ernährung können wie Chemikalien oder Strahlung die Haut belasten und sogar schädigen. Der natürliche Altersprozess wird dadurch beschleunigt. Man spricht von Skinaging. Dieses umweltbedingte, vorzeitige Altern der Haut (extrinsic aging) kann im Gegensatz zum genetisch festgelegtem Altern (intrinsic aging) positiv beeinflusst und damit verzögert werden. Veränderungen der Haut zeigen sich z.B. in einer Verdickung der Hornhaut, einer verminderten Kollagenbildung, in einer Verdikkung des elastischen Materials (Elastose), in einer verminderten Elastizität, in fahlem Aussehen, in Form von Pigmentflecken (Störung der Pigmentbildung), in faltiger Haut und in einer verzögerten Wundheilung.Even if foreign substances are successful, the mechanical and Overcoming chemical barriers is part of your own defense system Commitment. Our immune system has a representative with the Langerhans cells in the outermost body shell. More specifically, the skin adjusts itself immunocompetent organ. Many drugs and toxic Substances (including alcohol and nicotine) can range from intolerance to inflammation, which show redness, tightness, burning skin and itching, trigger. Environmental influences, stress, improper nutrition can be like chemicals or exposure to radiation and even damage the skin. The natural aging process is accelerated. One speaks of skinaging. This environmental, premature aging of the skin (extrinsic aging) can contrast for genetically determined aging (intrinsic aging) and be delayed with it. Changes in the skin show up e.g. in a Thickening of the cornea, reduced collagen formation, in a thickening of the elastic material (elastose), in a reduced elasticity, in pale appearance, in the form of pigment spots (disruption of pigment formation), in wrinkled skin and delayed wound healing.
Dass der UV-Anteil der Sonnenstrahlung eine schädigende Wirkung auf die Haut ausübt, ist allgemein bekannt. Strahlen im Bereich 290 bis 320 nm (UV-B) können ein Erythem und einen mehr oder weniger starken Sonnenbrand verursachen. Die Wirkung der UV-A-Strahlung wurde in diesem Zusammenhang lange Zeit vernachlässigt (320 bis 400nm). Es wurde angenommen, dass nur die UV-B-Strahlung für die meisten Schäden an der Haut verantwortlich ist, was allerdings durch Studien mittlerweile widerlegt ist. Man weiß heute, dass im Hinblick auf phototoxische Reaktionen und damit Entzündungen der Haut die UV-A-Strahlung ebenfalls gefährlich sein kann, auch weil sie von jahres- und tageszeitlichen Faktoren relativ unabhängig und damit konstant ist. Ein weiterer Grund liegt darin, dass der überwiegende Teil in die Epidermis eindringt, während bei UV-B-Strahlung ein großer Anteil in der Hornschicht absorbiert wird. Zudem kann es zu Synergien von UV-A- und B-Strahlung hinsichtlich oben genannter Beobachtungen kommen. UV-A- und B-Strahlung sorgen für eine Zerstörung des Gewebes resultierend in Falten, geringerer Immunität gegen Infektionen, Hautalterung und Krebs. That the UV component of solar radiation has a damaging effect on the Exercise skin is well known. Rays in the range 290 to 320 nm (UV-B) can be an erythema and a more or less severe sunburn cause. The effect of UV-A radiation was in this context neglected for a long time (320 to 400nm). It was believed that only UV-B radiation is responsible for most skin damage is what has now been refuted by studies. You know today that with regard to phototoxic reactions and thus inflammation of the Skin's UV-A radiation can also be dangerous, also because of it seasonal and daily time factors are relatively independent and therefore constant is. Another reason is that the vast majority are in the epidermis penetrates, while with UV-B radiation a large proportion in the horny layer is absorbed. There can also be synergies between UV-A and B radiation with regard to the above observations. UV-A and B radiation cause tissue destruction resulting in wrinkles, less Immunity to infections, aging and cancer.
Für eine Schädigung der Haut, z.B. in Form von Kollagen- und Elastinfaserveränderungen und damit Strukturveränderungen in der Haut reichen die unter Alltagsbedingungen aufgenommen Strahlungsdosen völlig aus.For damage to the skin, e.g. in the form of collagen and elastin fiber changes and thus structural changes in the skin reach below Everyday conditions completely absorbed radiation doses.
Eine Entstehungsursache oben genannter Schädigungen kann in der Wirkungsweise von Radikalen gesehen werden. So spielen beispielsweise bei photochemischen Reaktionsprodukten Hydroxyradikale eine große Rolle. Diese sehr reaktiven und aggressiven Moleküle führen in der Haut zur Bildung von Peroxiden. Diese zerstören die langkettigen Moleküle des Bindegewebes, was letztendlich in Faltenbildung der Haut resultieren kann.A cause of the above-mentioned damage can occur in the mode of action be seen by radicals. For example photochemical reaction products hydroxyl radicals play a major role. This very reactive and aggressive molecules lead to the formation of Peroxides. These destroy the long chain molecules of the connective tissue what can ultimately result in wrinkling of the skin.
Zum Schutz gegen intensive Sonnenbestrahlung sind zahlreiche Stoffe entwikkelt worden, sogenannte UVA-, B- und Breitbandfilter, die das UV-Licht in den gewünschten Bereichen absorbieren. Sie finden in der Gruppe der Sonnenschutzmittel Ihren Einsatz.Numerous fabrics have been developed to protect against intense solar radiation so-called UVA, B and broadband filters, which block the UV light in the absorb desired areas. You will find in the group of sunscreens Your commitment.
Die vorliegende Erfindung hat sich die Aufgabe gestellt, kosmetische Zubereitungen zur Verfügung zu stellen, die nicht nur eine Prophylaxe für strahlungsbedingten oxidativen Stress erreichen, sondern auch die Ursachen für intrinsische und extrinsische Ursachen des Skinaging beeinflussen. Insbesondere soll eine Linderung bereits eingetretener Hautschädigung in Form von entzündlichen Prozessen erreicht werden.The present invention has set itself the task of cosmetic preparations to provide not just prophylaxis for radiation-related Reach oxidative stress, but also the causes of intrinsic and affect extrinsic causes of skinaging. In particular, a Relief of skin damage that has already occurred in the form of inflammatory Processes can be achieved.
Ursolsäure ist als entzündungshemmende Substanz bekannt. Als Wirkmechanismen werden unter anderem eine Hemmung der Enzymsysteme der Lipoxygenase und Cyclooxygenase angenommen. Ursolsäure wurde als Wirkstoff vor allem durch die positive Wirkung bei Lebererkrankungen bekannt. Der Wirkmechanismus der Leberprotektion scheint multifaktoriell zu sein und ist im Detail noch nicht geklärt.Ursolic acid is known as an anti-inflammatory substance. As mechanisms of action are among other things an inhibition of the enzyme systems of lipoxygenase and cyclooxygenase. Ursolic acid was used as an active ingredient known for its positive effects in liver diseases. The mechanism of action the liver protection appears to be multifactorial and is in the The details have not yet been clarified.
Eine weitere günstige Eigenschaft von Ursolsäure liegt in der Hemmung verschiedener Reaktionen in der Tumor-Initiation und -Promotion. Eine positive Wirkung bei topischer Applikation soll hinsichtlich der Hautkrebsprophylaxe bestehen.Another beneficial property of ursolic acid is the inhibition of various Tumor initiation and promotion reactions. A positive one Effect in topical application is said to be effective in preventing skin cancer consist.
Aus der EP 1 161 879 ist bekannt, dass Gemische aus Ursolsäure und Oleansäure geschmacklich verbessert werden können, wenn man von ihnen apolare und niedermolekulare Begleitstoffe abtrennt und dieses gereinigte Gemisch dann in Mono-, Di- oder Triglyceriden löst.From EP 1 161 879 it is known that mixtures of ursolic acid and oleic acid taste can be improved if one of them is apolar and low-molecular accompanying substances and this purified mixture then dissolves in mono-, di- or triglycerides.
Aus der US 6,162,459 ist bekannt, dass man antivirale Wirkstoffe wie Acychlovir in transdermalen Zubereitungen verbessern kann, wenn man ihnen Verstärker aus der chinesischen Medizin zumischt. Zu diesen Verstärkern zählt Oleansäure und Ursolsäure neben sehr vielen anderen Pflanzen- und Fruchtextrakten.From US 6,162,459 it is known that antiviral agents such as acychlovir in transdermal preparations can improve if you give them amplifiers mixed from Chinese medicine. These enhancers include olean acid and ursolic acid in addition to many other plant and fruit extracts.
Aus der US 5,723,139 ist bekannt, dass die Wirksamkeit von Retinol und Retinoiden durch die Zumischung polycyclischer Triterpencarboxylsäure wie Oleansäure, Ursolsäure und Glycyrrhetinsäure verbessert werden kann. Hauptbestandteil ist Retinsäure, die wirksamer ist als Retinol. Glycyrrhetinsäure besitzt einen synergistischen Effekt mit Retinol bei der Inhibierung der Keratinozytendifferenzierung.From US 5,723,139 it is known that the effectiveness of retinol and retinoids by adding polycyclic triterpene carboxylic acid such as olean acid, Ursolic acid and glycyrrhetinic acid can be improved. Main component is retinoic acid, which is more effective than retinol. Glycyrrhetinic acid has a synergistic effect with retinol in inhibiting keratinocyte differentiation.
Die US 6,022,558 beschreibt transdermale Zubereitungen von Oxicamen als typische Vertreter nichtsteroider antientzündlicher Wirkstoffe. Es wird beschrieben, dass chinesische Kräuteraktivatoren die Absorption beschleunigen. Zu diesen chinesischen Kräuteraktivatoren zählen neben vielen anderen auch Oleansäure und Ursolsäure.US 6,022,558 describes transdermal preparations of oxicams as typical representatives of non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agents. It is described that Chinese herbal activators accelerate absorption. To this Chinese herbal activators include oleic acid among many others and ursolic acid.
Die US 6,238,678 beschreibt ein Verfahren zur Verbesserung des Erscheinungsbildes der Haut durch Zusatz von Vitamin B3 und seinen Derivaten.US 6,238,678 describes a method for improving the appearance the skin by adding vitamin B3 and its derivatives.
Bei der Aufzählung von zahllosen möglichen zusätzlichen Komponenten werden auch Lichtschutzkomponenten wie Flavonoide aufgezählt, ohne dass dies jedoch einen Niederschlag in den Beispielen gefunden hat. When enumerating countless possible additional components also listed light protection components such as flavonoids, but without this has been reflected in the examples.
Flavonoide wirken generell als antioxidativ (v.a. Flavonoide mit mehreren freien OH-Gruppen), antiallergisch und kapillarabdichtend und evtl. auch antiphlogistisch. Je nach ihrer Struktur ist jedoch die eine oder andere Wirkung besonders ausgeprägt.Flavonoids generally act as antioxidants (especially flavonoids with several free ones OH groups), anti-allergic and capillary sealing and possibly also anti-inflammatory. Depending on their structure, however, one or the other effect is special pronounced.
Einige Flavonoide hemmen Proteinkinasen, die Elastase und Hyaluronidase, Lipoxygenase und Cyclooxygenase. Die in vitro getestete Hemmung der letzten beiden Enzyme steht eng mit der Neutralisierung von Radikalen in Verbindung.Some flavonoids inhibit protein kinases, elastase and hyaluronidase, Lipoxygenase and cyclooxygenase. The last inhibition tested in vitro both enzymes are closely related to the neutralization of radicals.
Eine regenerierende Wirkung bei entzündlichen Erscheinungen wird durch Flavonoide nur zu einem geringen Grad ermöglicht. Zudem führt der alleinige Einsatz von Flavonoiden meistens zu einer gelben Färbung der Produkte. Die geringe Löslichkeit setzt zudem Grenzen, was die Konzentration der eingesetzten Flavonoidverbindung betrifft.A regenerating effect on inflammatory phenomena is achieved by Flavonoids only possible to a small degree. In addition, the sole leader Use of flavonoids mostly to yellow the products. The low solubility also sets limits on what the concentration of the used Flavonoid compound affects.
Es wurde jetzt gefunden, dass überraschenderweise ein Gemisch aus Ursolsäure und/oder Oleansäure und Flavonoiden eine unerwartet verbesserte Hautschutzwirkung entfaltet, und zwar sowohl in Hinsicht der Prävention als auch der Regeneration der durch extrinsische/intrinsische noxenmikroverletzten Haut. Besonders bewährt haben sich Gemische von Ursolsäure und Oleansäure im Verhältnis 80:20 bis 90:10. Wegen der schlechten Wasserlöslichkeit von Ursolsäure und Oleansäure werden diese vorzugsweise in Form ihrer Natriumsalze eingesetzt.It has now been found that, surprisingly, a mixture of ursolic acid and / or olean acid and flavonoids have an unexpectedly improved skin protection effect unfolded, both in terms of prevention and regeneration the skin injured by extrinsic / intrinsic noxious micro-micro. Especially Mixtures of ursolic acid and oleic acid have proven successful Ratio 80:20 to 90:10. Because of the poor water solubility of ursolic acid and oleic acid, these are preferably in the form of their sodium salts used.
Das Gemisch enthält bevorzugt Ursolsäure und eine oder beide der Komponenten Oleansäure und Flavanoiden.The mixture preferably contains ursolic acid and one or both of the components Oleic acid and flavanoids.
Als Flavonoide wiederum haben sich insbesondere bewährt Mischungen aus Rutin und Naringin, die im Mengenverhältnis 1:10 bis 1:2 zum Einsatz kommen. Mixtures of in particular have proven themselves as flavonoids Rutin and Naringin, which are used in a ratio of 1:10 to 1: 2.
Besonders deutliche Ergebnisse werden erzielt, wenn die erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Komponenten in Mengen von 0,05 bis 2 Gew.-% vorliegen.Particularly clear results are achieved if those used according to the invention Components are present in amounts of 0.05 to 2% by weight.
Die Hautschutzwirkung ist deutlich höher als die der Einzelstoffe einschließlich der bekannten Wirkstoffe, wie Pantothenat und Tocopherol. Diese Wirkungssteigerung ist besonders deutlich zu erkennen bei Mischungen, die als Flavonoide, Rutin und Naringin enthalten.The skin protection effect is significantly higher than that of the individual substances including the known active ingredients, such as pantothenate and tocopherol. This increase in effectiveness can be seen particularly clearly in the case of mixtures which are flavonoids, Rutin and Naringin included.
Die Wirkung kann allerdings unterstützt werden durch natürliches Vitamin E und/oder synthetische Tocopherole und/oder Derivate der Tocopherole und/oder anorganische und organische Zink- und/oder Selenverbindungen.The effect can, however, be supported by natural vitamin E and / or synthetic tocopherols and / or derivatives of tocopherols and / or inorganic and organic zinc and / or selenium compounds.
Im Vergleich zu den Einzelsubstanzen bewirkt die erfindungsgemäße Mischung bessere antiinflammatorische Wirkung (Inhibitor der Proteolyse), schnellere Zellerneuerung (repair-Effekt) durch stimulierende Wirkung auf Synthese der Komponenten der extrazellulären Matrix, Verbesserung der Hautstraffung und Elastizität von beanspruchter Haut und verstärkte antioxidative und kräftigende Wirkung.In comparison to the individual substances, the mixture according to the invention has the effect better anti-inflammatory effect (inhibitor of proteolysis), faster Cell renewal (repair effect) through stimulating effect on synthesis of Components of the extracellular matrix, skin tightening and improvement Elasticity of stressed skin and reinforced antioxidant and strengthening Effect.
Als weitere Komponenten können Antioxidantien, wie Ascorbinsäure, Vitamin A und Magnesiumsalze eingesetzt werden.Antioxidants such as ascorbic acid and vitamin A can be used as further components and magnesium salts are used.
Oleansäure (3β-hydroxy-olea-12-en-28-oic acid) und ihr Isomer (3β-hydroxyurs-12-en-28-oic acid), die Ursolsäure sind pentazyklische Triterpensäuren, die in natürlichen Pflanzen weit verbreitet sind und oft als Gemische in verschiedenen Verhältnissen vorkommen. Ihre Derivate sind Aglykone natürlich vorkommender Saponine.Oleic acid (3β-hydroxy-olea-12-en-28-oic acid) and its isomer (3β-hydroxyurs-12-en-28-oic acid), the ursolic acid are pentacyclic triterpenic acids, the are widespread in natural plants and often as mixtures in different Conditions. Their derivatives are more naturally occurring aglycones Saponins.
Flavonoide sind Glykoside der Flavone, der Flavanone, der 3-Hydroxyflavonone (Flavanole), der Isoflavone. Als besonders wirkungsvoll hat sich die Kombination der Flavonoide Rutin (Quercetin-3-0-rutinosid) und Naringin (Naringenin-7-neohesperidosid) gezeigt. Flavonoids are glycosides of flavones, flavanones and 3-hydroxyflavonones (Flavanole), the isoflavones. The combination has proven to be particularly effective the flavonoids rutin (quercetin-3-0-rutinoside) and naringin (naringenin-7-neohesperidoside) shown.
Erfindungsmäßige Formulierungen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung können als Emulsion vom Typ Öl in Wasser, Wasser in Öl, als Lösungen, multiple Emulsionen vom Typ W/O/W bzw. O/W/O, in Form von Dispersionen auf wässriger oder öliger Basis oder in Gelform vorliegen.Formulations according to the invention in the sense of the present invention can as an oil-in-water, water-in-oil, as a solution, multiple W / O / W or O / W / O type emulsions in the form of dispersions aqueous or oily base or in gel form.
In den nachfolgenden Beispielen sind typische erfindungsgemäße Zubereitungen näher erläutert:Typical preparations according to the invention are in the examples below explained in more detail:
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| EP03000177A Withdrawn EP1327438A1 (en) | 2002-01-12 | 2003-01-07 | Cosmetic composition and use of same |
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| FR2919501A1 (en) * | 2007-08-02 | 2009-02-06 | Oreal | USE OF HESPERIDINE OR ONE OF ITS DERIVATIVES FOR THE PREVENTION AND / OR TREATMENT OF RELEASED SKIN |
| WO2011117894A1 (en) * | 2010-03-26 | 2011-09-29 | Kausalya, Srinivas | Pharmaceutical technology of pharmaceutical composition in novel/sequential drug delivery system containing nitric oxide donor |
| WO2012024395A3 (en) * | 2010-08-19 | 2013-05-02 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies Inc. | Compositions comprising paulwnin and/or paulownia extracts and uses thereof |
| WO2013083431A1 (en) * | 2011-12-06 | 2013-06-13 | Unilever Plc | Skin anti-ageing composition |
| US9161958B2 (en) | 2010-08-19 | 2015-10-20 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. | Methods of treating cellulite |
| US9168219B2 (en) | 2010-08-19 | 2015-10-27 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. | Compositions comprising Paulownia tomentosa wood extracts and uses thereof |
| US9168279B2 (en) | 2010-08-19 | 2015-10-27 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. | Compositions comprising paulownin and/or Paulownia extracts and uses thereof |
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| US9173913B2 (en) | 2010-08-19 | 2015-11-03 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. | Compositions comprising Paulownia tomentosa wood extracts and uses thereof |
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| WO2009022077A2 (en) | 2007-08-02 | 2009-02-19 | L'oreal | Use of hesperidin or of a derivative thereof for the prevention and/or treatment of slackened skin |
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| FR2919501A1 (en) * | 2007-08-02 | 2009-02-06 | Oreal | USE OF HESPERIDINE OR ONE OF ITS DERIVATIVES FOR THE PREVENTION AND / OR TREATMENT OF RELEASED SKIN |
| WO2011117894A1 (en) * | 2010-03-26 | 2011-09-29 | Kausalya, Srinivas | Pharmaceutical technology of pharmaceutical composition in novel/sequential drug delivery system containing nitric oxide donor |
| US9173913B2 (en) | 2010-08-19 | 2015-11-03 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. | Compositions comprising Paulownia tomentosa wood extracts and uses thereof |
| WO2012024395A3 (en) * | 2010-08-19 | 2013-05-02 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies Inc. | Compositions comprising paulwnin and/or paulownia extracts and uses thereof |
| US9962326B2 (en) | 2010-08-19 | 2018-05-08 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. | Compositions comprising paulownia tomentosa wood extracts and uses thereof |
| US9387349B2 (en) | 2010-08-19 | 2016-07-12 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. | Compositions comprising Paulownia tomentosa wood extracts and uses thereof |
| US9161958B2 (en) | 2010-08-19 | 2015-10-20 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. | Methods of treating cellulite |
| US9168219B2 (en) | 2010-08-19 | 2015-10-27 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. | Compositions comprising Paulownia tomentosa wood extracts and uses thereof |
| US9168279B2 (en) | 2010-08-19 | 2015-10-27 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. | Compositions comprising paulownin and/or Paulownia extracts and uses thereof |
| US9168207B2 (en) | 2010-08-19 | 2015-10-27 | Johnson & Johnson Consumer Inc. | Compositions comprising Paulownia tomentosa wood extracts and uses thereof |
| WO2013083431A1 (en) * | 2011-12-06 | 2013-06-13 | Unilever Plc | Skin anti-ageing composition |
| AU2012348700B2 (en) * | 2011-12-06 | 2015-08-27 | Unilever Plc | Skin anti-ageing composition |
| CN103957998A (en) * | 2011-12-06 | 2014-07-30 | 荷兰联合利华有限公司 | Skin Anti-Aging Composition |
| US10406091B2 (en) | 2011-12-06 | 2019-09-10 | Conopco, Inc. | Skin anti-ageing composition |
| CN111194205A (en) * | 2016-10-24 | 2020-05-22 | 高露洁-棕榄公司 | Personal care compositions containing naringin:zinc complex and methods of use |
| US11116708B2 (en) | 2016-10-24 | 2021-09-14 | Colgate-Palmolive Company | Personal care compositions including naringin:zinc complexes and methods for the same |
| WO2019083554A1 (en) * | 2017-10-24 | 2019-05-02 | Colgate-Palmolive Company | Personal care compositions including naringin:zinc complexes and methods for the same |
| AU2017436676B2 (en) * | 2017-10-24 | 2021-03-25 | Colgate-Palmolive Company | Personal care compositions including naringin:zinc complexes and methods for the same |
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