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EP1367981A2 - Agent de lustrage nacre - Google Patents

Agent de lustrage nacre

Info

Publication number
EP1367981A2
EP1367981A2 EP02708264A EP02708264A EP1367981A2 EP 1367981 A2 EP1367981 A2 EP 1367981A2 EP 02708264 A EP02708264 A EP 02708264A EP 02708264 A EP02708264 A EP 02708264A EP 1367981 A2 EP1367981 A2 EP 1367981A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
acid
fatty
carbon atoms
esters
weight
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP02708264A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Claus Nieendick
Josef Koester
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
Original Assignee
Cognis Deutschland GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cognis Deutschland GmbH and Co KG filed Critical Cognis Deutschland GmbH and Co KG
Publication of EP1367981A2 publication Critical patent/EP1367981A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
    • C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
    • C09K23/017—Mixtures of compounds
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
    • C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
    • C09K23/14—Derivatives of phosphoric acid
    • C—CHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C09—DYES; PAINTS; POLISHES; NATURAL RESINS; ADHESIVES; COMPOSITIONS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; APPLICATIONS OF MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • C09K—MATERIALS FOR MISCELLANEOUS APPLICATIONS, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE
    • C09K23/00—Use of substances as emulsifying, wetting, dispersing, or foam-producing agents
    • C09K23/54—Silicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00—Anti-perspirants or body deodorants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/006—Antidandruff preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a pearlescent concentrate of waxes and nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants, the waxes consisting of at least 15% by weight of amorphous fraction and at most 85% by weight of crystalline fraction, and the use of these pearlescent concentrates in surface-active preparations.
  • Pearlescent waxes are widely used in cosmetic preparations such as hair shampoo and others due to their visual appearance. In order to ensure the stability of such pearlescent preparations, the pearlescent waxes must be incorporated into the cosmetic formulations at high temperatures (> 55 ° C. depending on the melting point of the waxes used) or have particle sizes of mostly 5 to 60 ⁇ m. It has also been described that oil-containing cosmetic preparations only by adding polymers, such as carbomer, or inorganic carriers e.g. Bentonites can be stabilized with regard to separation and viscosity behavior. Furthermore, only pearlescent agents with a low concentration of wax bodies (generally a maximum of 25%) are known from the prior art.
  • the object of the present invention was therefore to provide highly concentrated pearlescent agents which stabilize oil-containing cosmetic preparations regardless of the particle size of the pearlescent concentrates and without the addition of polymers or inorganic carriers and thus a separation, in particular at higher storage temperatures, or a decrease in viscosity avoid. Furthermore, cold processing of these pearlescent concentrates should be possible in cosmetic preparations. Description of the invention
  • the invention relates to a pearlescent concentrate containing - based on the overall composition -
  • waxes which have a high proportion of amorphous particles are outstandingly suitable in combination with nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants for the production of pearlescent agents of high concentration. It is particularly advantageous that oily cosmetic preparations can be stabilized by these pearlescent concentrates - also at high storage temperatures - and thus avoid separation without the addition of polymers or inorganic carriers being necessary. It is also particularly advantageous that the stabilizing effect of the concentrates is independent of the particle size of the particles. Furthermore, the pearlescent concentrates can be incorporated into cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations in the cold.
  • waxes examples include: alkylene glycol esters; fatty acid; Partial glycerides; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and / or fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms; Fatty acids and hydroxy fatty acids with 16 to 30 carbon atoms, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, fatty acids and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.
  • Fatty substances such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and / or fatty carbonates, which have a total of at
  • the waxes which are suitable as component (a) according to the invention consist, based on the total wax concentration, of at least 15, preferably at least 17 to 25 and in particular at least 35% by weight of amorphous or spherical fraction and at most 85, preferably from at most 83 to 75 and in particular from at most 65% by weight of crystalline fraction, the sum of amorphous and crystalline fraction giving 100% by weight.
  • the amorphous and crystalline portion of the wax is determined by counting under a microscope, e.g. Olympus BX 50 with connected digital camera, reflected light pictures, i.e. On the basis of the numbers obtained, the percentage of amorphous and crystalline particles is calculated and converted accordingly to the amount used.
  • the average particle size ( ⁇ m) can be determined by the customary methods, but is preferably measured using Malvern Zetasizer 3 (Malvern).
  • alkylene glycol ester • alkylene glycol ester.
  • the alkylene glycol esters are usually mono- and / or diesters of alkylene glycols which follow the formula (I)
  • R 1 CO is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 2 is hydrogen or R 1 CO
  • A is a linear or branched alkylene radical having 2 to 4 carbon atoms and q is a number from 1 to 5 stands.
  • Typical examples are mono- and / or diesters of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, triethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol with fatty acids with 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms as there are: caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid , Lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • the use of ethylene glycol mono- and / or distearate is particularly preferred.
  • R 3 CO represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 4 represents hydrogen or an optionally hydroxyl-substituted alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • B represents a linear or branched alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • Typical examples are condensation products of ethanolamine, methylethanolamine, diethanolamine, propanolamine, methylpropanolamine and dipropa- nolamine as well as their mixtures with caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arenachic acid, gadane stearic acid, gadolinic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • the use of stearic acid ethanolamide is particularly preferred.
  • Partial glycerides which have pearlescent properties are mono- and / or diesters of glycerol with fatty acids, namely, for example, caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid , Linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. They follow the formula (III),
  • R 5 CO for a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms
  • R 5 and R 7 independently of one another for hydrogen or R 7 CO, x, y and z in total for 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30
  • X for is an alkali or alkaline earth metal with the proviso that at least one of the two radicals R 6 and R 7 is hydrogen.
  • Typical examples are lauryl rinTalkremonoglycerid, lauric, coconut fatty, retriglycerid Kokosfett Maschinen-, palmitic, Palmitinklaretriglycerid, oleic, stearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid, Isostearinklarediglycerid, ⁇ lklaremo- noglycerid, oleic acid diglyceride, tallow fatty acid, Talgfettklarediglycerid, Behenklasted monoglyceride, Behenklakladremonoglycerid, Erucaklakladiglycerid and technical mixtures which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process.
  • Polyvalent carboxylic and hydroxycarboxylic esters are Polyvalent carboxylic and hydroxycarboxylic esters. Pearlescent waxes which can also be esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms. Examples of suitable acid components of these esters are malonic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, adipic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid, dodecanedioic acid, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and in particular succinic acid and malic acid, citric acid and in particular tartaric acid and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols contain 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18 and in particular 16 to 18 Carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.
  • Typical examples are capronic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol as well as their technical mixtures.
  • the esters can be present as full or partial esters, preferably mono- and especially diesters of carboxylic or hydroxycarboxylic acids.
  • Typical examples are succinic acid mono- and dilauryl esters, succinic acid mono- and dicetearyl esters, succinic acid mono- and distearyl esters, tartaric acid mono- and dilauryl esters, tartaric acid mono- and dicocosal- alkyl esters, tartaric acid mono- and dicetearyl esters, citric acid di- and -trilaurylester, citric acid mono-, -di and -trikokosalkylester as well as citric acid mono-, -di- and - tricetearylester.
  • Fatty alcohols Long-chain fatty alcohols which follow the formula (IV) can be used as a further group of pearlescent waxes,
  • R 8 represents a linear alkyl radical having 24 to 48, preferably 32 to 36, carbon atoms.
  • the substances mentioned are usually oxidation products of long-chain paraffins.
  • Fat ketones which are suitable as component (a) preferably follow the formula (V),
  • R 9 and R 10 independently of one another represent alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that they have a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbon atoms.
  • the ketones can be prepared by methods of the prior art, for example by pyrolysis of the corresponding fatty acid magnesium salts.
  • the ketones can have a symmetrical or asymmetrical structure, but the two radicals R 9 and R 10 preferably differ only by one carbon atom and are derived from fatty acids having 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Stearon is characterized by particularly advantageous pearlescent properties.
  • Fatty aldehydes suitable as pearlescent waxes correspond to the formula (VI)
  • R 1 CO represents a linear or branched acyl radical having 24 to 48, preferably 28 to 32, carbon atoms.
  • R 12 and R 13 independently of one another represent alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that in total they have at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbon atoms.
  • Fat ethers of the type mentioned are usually prepared by acidic condensation of the corresponding fatty alcohols. Fat ethers with particularly advantageous pearlescent properties are obtained by condensation of fatty alcohols having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol.
  • Fatty carbonates are also suitable as component (a)
  • R 14 and R 15 independently of one another represent alkyl and / or alkenyl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that they have a total of at least 24 and preferably 32 to 48 carbon atoms.
  • the substances are obtained by transesterifying, for example, dimethyl or diethyl carbonate with the corresponding fatty alcohols in a manner known per se. Accordingly, the fatty carbonates can be constructed symmetrically or asymmetrically. However, carbonates are preferably used in which R 14 and R 15 are identical and represent alkyl radicals having 16 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • Transesterification products of dimethyl or diethyl carbonate with cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol in the form of their mono- and diesters or their technical mixtures are particularly preferred.
  • fatty acids Aliphatic, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with 16 to 30 carbons, such as, for example, stearic acid, cetylstearic acid, hydroxystearic acid and behenic acid and their technical mixtures, are suitable for this purpose.
  • Epoxy ring opening products are known substances which are usually produced by acid-catalyzed reaction of terminal or internal olefin epoxides with aliphatic alcohols.
  • the reaction products preferably follow the formula (IX)
  • R 16 and R 17 are hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 10 to 20 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the sum of the carbon atoms of R 16 and R 17 is in the range from 10 to 20 and R 18 is an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or the radical of a polyol having 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups.
  • Typical examples are ring opening products of ⁇ -dodecenepoxide, ⁇ -hexadecenepoxide, ⁇ -octadecenepoxide, ⁇ -eicosenepoxide, ⁇ -docosenepoxide, i-dodecenepoxide, i-hexadecenepoxide, i-octadecenepoxide, i-eicosenepoxide and / or i-docosenalkoxide with laury , coconut fatty alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and / or erucyl alcohol.
  • Ring opening products of hexa- and / or octadecene epoxides with fatty alcohols having 16 to 18 carbon atoms are preferably used.
  • polyols are, for example, the following substances: glycerol; Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons; technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10, such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight; Methyl compounds, such as, in particular, trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol; Lower alkyl
  • Nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants may be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of the pearlescent concentrates in the range from 5 to 25 and preferably 7 to 20 and in particular 10 to 17% by weight, based on the overall composition.
  • suitable nonionic surfactants are compounds from at least one of the following groups:
  • Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and poly (eg cellulose) saturated and / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide; Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or polyglycerol.
  • Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
  • Polymer emulsifiers e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
  • adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out.
  • Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • glycoside residue both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8 are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
  • Suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid diglyceride hydroxy, isostearic acid, Isostearinklarediglycerid, ⁇ lklaremonoglyce- chloride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolklaremoglycerid, Ricinolklarediglycerid, Linolklaremonoglycerid, Linolklarediglycerid, LinolenTalkremonoglycerid, Linolenchurediglycerid, Erucaklaklamonoglycerid, Erucaklaklarediglycerid, Citronenklamonoglycerid, Citronendiglycerid, ⁇ pfelklaremonoglycerid, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30,
  • sorbitan sorbitan As sorbitan sorbitan, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, Sorbitan, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan, sorbitan, Sorbitanmonoerucat, Sorbitansesquierucat, Sorbitandierucat, Sorbitantrierucat, Sorbitanmonorici- come noleat, Sorbitansesquiricinoleat, Sorbitandiricinoleat, Sorbitantriricinoleat, Sorbitanmonohydro- xystearat, Sorbitansesquihydroxystearat, Sorbitandihydroxystearat, Sorbitantrihydroxystearat, sorting bitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan dic
  • polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearates (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearates (Isolan® Gl 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyceryl polyglyceryl 3 diisostearates (Isolan® PDI), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego Care® 450), polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina®), polyglyceryl-4 caprate (polyglycerol caprate T2010 / 90), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether ( Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl-2 dipo
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, taig fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • amphoteric surfactants Those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule are referred to as amphoteric surfactants.
  • amphoteric surfactants from the following group are suitable:
  • Alkyl betaines alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • Particularly suitable amphoteric surfactants are betaines, e.g.
  • N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate
  • N-acylamino-propyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate for example the cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate
  • 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazo C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl carboxymethylglycinate The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred.
  • the pearlescent concentrates according to the invention contain no anionic and / or cationic surfactants. All anionic and / or cationic surfactants known to the person skilled in the art fall under the definition of the anionic and / or cationic surfactants. The use of these ionic surfactants in the production of pearlescent concentrates results in the formation of predominantly crystalline structures and the described high wax concentrations in the concentrate cannot be achieved by adding anionic and / or cationic surfactants. Polvole
  • Polyols which are suitable for the purposes of the invention preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • Alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
  • Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as sorbitol or mannitol,
  • Aminosugars such as glucamine
  • Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.
  • Glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight in the range from 100 to 1,000 daltons are preferably used.
  • the pearlescent concentrates according to the invention can contain the polyols in amounts of 15 to 50, preferably 32 to 45 and in particular 36 to 43% by weight, based on the overall composition.
  • the pearlescent concentrates are obtained by heating the waxes, the nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and water to a temperature of 70 to 90 ° C. or 15 to 20 ° C. above the melting point of the wax component (s) and the emulsion / dispersion obtained cools to room temperature with stirring. During the cooling process, the waxes crystallize and the dispersion obtained with the finely crystallized wax particles has a pearlescent effect. If 0.25 to 6, preferably 0.4 to 4 and in particular 0.5 to 2.5% by weight of the pearlescent concentrate described is incorporated by simply stirring it into cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, preferably detergent-containing detergents, at room temperature, these have also a stable pearlescent effect.
  • the crystal structure formed in the production of the pearlescent concentrate according to the invention described above is achieved by incorporation into cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations which contain anionic or cationic surfactants as a further component.
  • the stabilization of additionally introduced oil bodies in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations is also supported.
  • the pearlescent concentrates according to the invention can be used in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, preferably detergent-containing cleaning agents, such as hair shampoo, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, gels, lotions and emulsions.
  • the pearlescent concentrates according to the invention are used in these preparations in amounts of 0.25 to 6%, preferably 0.4 to 4 and in particular 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the overall composition.
  • preparations can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, other surfactants, oil bodies, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, silicone compounds, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active substances, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, Insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like. contain .
  • the pearlescent waxes according to the invention are able to stabilize cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, which contain oil bodies, preferably silicone oils, in the formulation due to their high proportion of amorphous crystals. Accordingly, another object of the invention is directed to the use of the pearlescent concentrates according to the invention for stabilizing oil bodies.
  • oil body preferably silicone oils
  • esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
  • esters of Ci8-C38-alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols in particular dioctyl matte
  • esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol
  • polyhydric alcohols such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol
  • Guerbet alcohols triglycerides based on C ⁇ - cio fatty acids
  • liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ⁇ -Ci ⁇ fatty acids
  • esters of C6- C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids in particular benzoic acid
  • Dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or a-lipatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, e.g. Squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes into consideration.
  • Esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols, silicone oils such as dimethicone or dimethiconol or mixtures thereof are preferably used.
  • Anionic, nonionic (see above), cationic and / or amphoteric (see above) surfactants may be present as surface-active substances, the proportion of these agents usually being about 5 to 25 and preferably 10 to 20% by weight.
  • the nonionic and / or amphoteric tensi de of the pearlescent concentrate can be identical to those contained in the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.
  • anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymate sulfate ethersulfates, hydroxymate sulfate ethersulfates, hydroxymate sulfate ethersulfates, and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates,
  • anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or glucoronic acid amide derivatives, especially fatty acid glucoronic acid amide, and fatty acid glucoronic acid amide (glucoronic acid amide), especially fatty acid glucoronic acid amide (glucoronic acid derivatives) Wheat-based products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides.
  • nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds.
  • Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids.
  • a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic Silicas), polysaccharides, especially xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, as well as higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (e.g.
  • surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as for example pentaerythritol or tri-methylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well
  • Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.
  • Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cydic silicones as well as amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, glycoside and / or alkyl modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
  • Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
  • a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 9_i. 27 (1976).
  • UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, organic substances (light protection filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. To give off heat again.
  • UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances e.g. to call:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene);
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • Esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; Triazine derivatives, such as 2 ) 4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyl tri-azone or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
  • benzoylmethane such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl
  • benzoylmethane such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl
  • typical UV-A filters -4'-methoxydi- benzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and enamine compounds.
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
  • Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, for example 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with esters of cinnamic acid , preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate.
  • benzoylmethane for example 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with esters of cinnamic acid , preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-me
  • water-soluble filters such as 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts.
  • insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts
  • suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
  • Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
  • the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm.
  • the pigments can also be surface treated, i.e. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, e.g. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in S ⁇ FW Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Perfumery and Cosmetics 3 (1999), page 11ff.
  • secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin.
  • Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-camosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine) , Carotenoids, carotenes (e.g.
  • ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, Cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, Amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, diiaurylthiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and Salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximines homocysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg)
  • metal chelators e.g. ⁇ -hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, Phytic acid, lactoferrin
  • ⁇ -hydroxy acids e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g.
  • ZnO, ZnSOt selenium and its derivatives (e.g. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (e.g. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the Derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances mentioned.
  • Biogenic active substances are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes to understand.
  • deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors.
  • Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed.
  • deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
  • germ-inhibiting agents such as. B.
  • Esterase inhibitors are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate. The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
  • esterase inhibitors include sterolsulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid , Monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.
  • sterolsulfates or phosphates such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate
  • dicarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, glutaric acid, glut
  • Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Perfume oils or perfume oils act as odor maskers, which, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their ... respective fragrance note.
  • perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.
  • Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms.
  • Animal raw materials such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable.
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether
  • the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetal dehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
  • the ketones include, for example, the jono- ne and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
  • fragrance oils which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanol, galbanum oil, labdanumol and lavandin oil.
  • Antiperspirants reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor.
  • Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:
  • non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.
  • Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients.
  • suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds e.g. B. with propylene glycol-1, 2nd Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as Glycine.
  • customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants.
  • Such oil soluble aids can e.g. his:
  • water-soluble additives are e.g. Preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusters, e.g. Buffer mixtures, water soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as e.g. Xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.
  • Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
  • Piroctone olamine (1 -H yd roxy-4-methyl-6- (2, 4, 4-trimy thy I pe ntyl) - 2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol® come as anti-dandruff agents , (4-Acety I- 1 - ⁇ -4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphe-nyl ⁇ piperazine , Ketoconazole, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinolexylate, sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylene acid, , Aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium
  • Suitable insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacety-laminopropionate
  • Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.
  • Arbutin, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.
  • Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
  • Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • Alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
  • Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Dialcohol amines such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol. preservative
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
  • Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbynyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenylglycinate, allyl cyclohexylatexylpropylionylpylpropionate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzylethyl ether, the aldehydes, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones include, for example, the jonones, ⁇ -isomethylionone and methylcedryl ketone the alcohols ethanol, _citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
  • fragrance oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanol, galbanum oil, labola oil and lavandinol.
  • the dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes” by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.
  • the total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be from 5.3 to 32% by weight, preferably from 12 to 25% by weight, based on the composition.
  • the preparation of the compositions can be carried out using conventional cold or hot processes.
  • the pearlescent concentrates are obtained by heating the waxes, the nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants and water to a temperature of 70 to 90 ° C. and cooling the emulsion / dispersion obtained to room temperature with stirring. During cooling, the wax components crystallize out and the dispersion obtained with the finely crystallized wax particles has a pearlescent effect.
  • the amorphous and crystalline proportion of the wax was determined by counting on a microscope (Olympus BX 50 with connected digital camera, reflected light, x +/- 1.5%) and converted accordingly to the amount used.
  • the mean particle size ( ⁇ m) was measured using Malvern Zetasizer 3, Malvern.
  • the pearlescent concentrates 1 and 3 according to the invention in Table 1 and a pearlescent concentrate V1 according to the invention were used in cosmetic formulations with oil bodies.
  • the pearlescent concentrates were incorporated into the formulation at room temperature.
  • Table 2 Cosmetic preparations with pearlescent concentrates Table 1 - Quantities in% by weight of active substance -

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un concentré de lustrage nacré contenant - rapportés à la composition dans son ensemble: (a) 30 à 60 % en poids de cires qui comprennent - rapportés à la concentration globale en cires - au moins 15 % en poids d'une fraction amorphe et maximum 85 % en poids d'une fraction cristalline, la somme des fractions amorphe et cristalline valant 100 % en poids; et (b) 5 à 25 % en poids de tensioactifs amphotères et/ou non ioniques, de l'eau étant ajoutée à ces pourcentages pour donner 100 % en poids.
EP02708264A 2001-01-18 2002-01-09 Agent de lustrage nacre Withdrawn EP1367981A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

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DE10102005 2001-01-18
DE10102005A DE10102005A1 (de) 2001-01-18 2001-01-18 Perlglanzmittel
PCT/EP2002/000125 WO2002056839A2 (fr) 2001-01-18 2002-01-09 Agent de lustrage nacre

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US20040086470A1 (en) 2004-05-06
JP2004523519A (ja) 2004-08-05
WO2002056839A3 (fr) 2003-10-02
DE10102005A1 (de) 2002-07-25
WO2002056839A2 (fr) 2002-07-25

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