EP1183007A1

EP1183007A1 - Use of ascorbic acid and one or more flavone derivatives and/or flavan derivatives, especially flavonoids, for producing cosmetic or dermatological preparations used to prevent or sooth sunburns

Info

Publication number: EP1183007A1
Application number: EP00931273A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Inge Kruse; Frank Rippke; Uwe SCHÖNROCK
Original assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Current assignee: Beiersdorf AG
Priority date: 1999-06-04
Filing date: 2000-05-30
Publication date: 2002-03-06
Also published as: WO2000074641A1; JP2003501369A; EP1057475A1; DE19925499A1

Abstract

The invention relates to the use of ascorbic acid and ascorbyl compounds and one or more flavone derivatives and/or flavan derivatives, especially flavonoids, for producing a cosmetic or dermatological preparation used to prevent or sooth sunburns.

Description

Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

description

Use of ascorbic acid and one or more flavone derivatives and / or flavanone derivatives, in particular flavonoids, for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis or alleviation of sunburn

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations.

The damaging effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is generally known. Depending on their respective wavelengths, the rays have different effects on the skin organ: The so-called UV-C radiation with a wavelength that is less than 290 nm is absorbed by the ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere and therefore has no physiological significance. In contrast, rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UV-B range, cause an erythema, a simple sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

Sunburn (erythema solare) thus represents an acute light dermatosis. It is a phototraumatic reaction with the skin being sensitive to light as a rule due to overdosing of UV light. The symptoms of sunburn are more or severe reddening of the skin and possibly blistering. In the course of the healing of the sunburn, desquamation of the light-exposed skin areas can often be observed.

The narrower range around 308 nm is given as a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of sunlight.

^ n has long mistakenly assumed that the long-wave UV-A radiation with a wavelength between 320 nm and 400 nm has only a negligible biological effect and accordingly the UV-B rays for most

Light damage to human skin are responsible. In the meantime, however numerous studies have shown that UV-A radiation is far more dangerous than UV-B radiation in terms of triggering photodynamic, especially phototoxic reactions and chronic changes in the skin. The damaging influence of UV-B radiation can also be intensified by UV-A radiation.

About 90% of the ultraviolet radiation reaching the earth consists of UV-A rays. While UV-B radiation varies greatly depending on numerous factors (e.g. time of year and time of day or latitude), UV-A radiation remains relatively constant day by day regardless of the time of year or day or geographical factors. At the same time, the major part of UV-A radiation penetrates the living epidermis, while around 70% of UV-B rays are retained by the layer on the back.

Most people find sunbathing pleasant, but the adverse consequences are initially ignored. However, awareness of the negative effects of excessive sun exposure has developed in recent years, which is why more and more protective sunscreens are used. Numerous compounds are known for protection against UV-B radiation as prophylaxis of sunburn, most of which are derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and also 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

In general, the light absorption behavior of light protection filter substances is very well known and documented, especially since in most industrialized countries there are positive lists for the use of such substances, which apply very strict standards to the documentation. Depending on the area in which UV light is absorbed, a distinction is made between UV-B filters, UV-A filters and broadband filters (which have a filter effect over the entire range of UV-A and UV-B). Appropriate selection of the UV filter and its concentration in the sunscreen means that it is possible to influence the degree of shielding of the UV light. For the dosage of the substances in the finished formulations, however, the extinction values can at best provide guidance, because interactions with ingredients of the formulation or the skin itself can cause uncertainties. Furthermore, it is generally difficult to estimate in advance how evenly and in what layer thickness the filter substance is distributed in and on the hom layer of the skin. Effective prophylaxis of sunburn has so far only been achieved by using classic UV filters or UV blockers. Effective relief from already manifest sunburn has so far been difficult

It was therefore a matter of remedying the state of the art

The use of ascorbic acid in cosmetics and dermatics is known per se L-ascorbic acid {(R) -5 - [(S) -1,2-dihydroxyethyl] -3,4-dihydroxy-5-H-furan-2-one, Vitamin C} is characterized by the structural formula

aus It is easily soluble in water, readily soluble in alcohol, insoluble in ether, petroleum ether, chloroform, benzene and in fats and fatty oils. Ascorbic acid is an endiol and has a strong reducing effect as a reducton. Ascorbic acid is sensitive to heat and becomes especially in the presence of traces of heavy metals as well as decomposed in an alkaline environment by light and atmospheric oxygen, in a pure, dry state, however, it is relatively resistant to light, air and warmth

In cosmetic and dermatological preparations, ascorbyl compounds, preferably ascorbyl esters of fatty acids, particularly preferably ascorbyl palmitate, are often used instead of the ascorbic acid, since the sensitivity of these compounds to oxidative influence on the ascorbic acid is greatly reduced and these compounds are mostly less ollosos, which can offer galenical advantages

Ascorbyl compounds in the narrower sense are in particular the ascorbyl esters of the general structure

where R can represent a branched or unbranched alkyl radical with up to 25 carbon atoms.

Ascorbylglycosides are also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, in particular the ascorbylglucosides, in particular the ascorbyl-2-glucoside, which is characterized by the structure

is played.

Ascorbyl compounds in the narrower sense are also the ascorbyl phosphates, particularly advantageously the ascorbyl-2-phosphates of ascorbic acid or its alkali, alkaline earth metal, zinc salts or mixed salts of such cations.

A triple deprotonated ascorbyl phosphate ion is shown above, although other deprotonation stages are also advantageous in the sense of the present invention.

The sodium, magnesium and zinc salts are preferred, for example sodium ascorbyl phosphate.

The use of flavones or flavonoids in cosmetics or dermatology is known per se. For example, DE-OS 44 44 238 describes combinations of cinnamic acid derivatives and flavone glycosides, for example α-glycosyl rutin as antioxidants and as active ingredients against other indications. However, it was surprising and for the skilled worker it was not foreseeable that the use of ascorbic acid and one or more flavone derivatives and / or flavone derivatives, in particular flavonoids for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the prophylaxis or alleviation of sunburn would remedy the disadvantages of the prior art .

Flavon and its derivatives (often also collectively called "flavones") are characterized by the following basic structure (substitution positions specified):

Some of the more important flavones, which can also be found in the living nature, are listed in the table below:

In nature, flavones usually occur in glycosidated form.

Flavonoids are glycosides of flavones, the flavanones, whose basic structure is characterized by the following structure:

the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), whose basic structure is characterized by the following structure:

the Aurone, whose basic structure is characterized by the following structure:

and the isoflavones, the basic structure of which is characterized by the following structure:

According to the invention, the flavonoids are preferably chosen from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where Z, - Z ₇ are selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1-18 C atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

According to the invention, the flavonoids can also be advantageously selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

where 7 .- ^ - Z are independently selected from the group H, OH, alkoxy and hydroxyalkoxy, where the alkoxy or hydroxyalkoxy groups can be branched and unbranched and can have 1 - 18 carbon atoms, and wherein Gly is selected from the group of mono- and oligoglycoside residues.

Such structures can preferably be selected from the group of substances of the generic structural formula

whereby Glyi, Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.

Glyi, Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl residues, in particular the rhamnosyl residues and glucosyl residues. However, other hexosyl residues, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may also be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

Z ^ - Z ₅ are advantageously selected independently of one another from the group H, OH, methoxy, ethoxy and 2-hydroxyethoxy, and the flavone glycosides have the structure

The flavone glycosides according to the invention from the group which are represented by the following structure are particularly advantageous:

wherein Glyi, Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ independently of one another represent monoglycoside residues or. Gly ₂ or Gly ₃ can also represent, individually or together, saturations by hydrogen atoms.

G / i, Gly ₂ and Gly ₃ are preferably selected independently of one another from the group of the hexosyl radicals, in particular the rhamnosyl radicals and glucosyl radicals. But also other hexosyl radicals, for example allosyl, altrosyl, galactosyl, gulosyl, idosyl, mannosyl and talosyl, may optionally be used advantageously. It can also be advantageous according to the invention to use pentosyl residues.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is particularly advantageous to select the flavone glycoside (s) from the group α-glucosyl rutin, α-glucosyl myrictrin, α-glucosyl iso-quercitrin and α-glucosyl quercitrin.

A flavonoid which is particularly advantageous according to the invention is α-glucosylrutin. It is characterized by the following structure:

Another flavonoid which is particularly advantageous according to the invention is naringin (aurantiin, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another flavonoid which is particularly advantageous according to the invention is hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rutinoside, hesperidoside, hesperetin-7-O-rutinoside). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another flavonoid which is particularly advantageous according to the invention is rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflyvon-3-rutinoside, quercetin-3-rutinoside, sophorin, birutan, rutabion, tau-rutin, phytomelin, melin). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another flavonoid which is particularly advantageous according to the invention is troxerutin (3,5-di-hydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L- mannopyranosyl) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another particularly advantageous flavonoid according to the invention is monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavon-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyrano-syl ) -ß-D-glucopyranoside)). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another flavonoid which is particularly advantageous according to the invention is dihydrorobinetin (3,3 ', 4', 5 ', 7-pentahydroxyflavanone). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another flavonoid which is particularly advantageous according to the invention is taxifolin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanone). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another flavonoid which is particularly advantageous according to the invention is eriodιctyol-7-glucoside (3 ', 4', 5,7-tetrahydroxyflavanon-7-glucoside). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another flavonoid which is particularly advantageous according to the invention is flavanomareϊn (3 ', 4', 7,8-tetrahydroxyflavanone-7-glucoside). It is characterized by the following structure:

Another flavonoid which is particularly advantageous according to the invention is isoquercitrin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavanon-3- (β-D-glucopyranoside). It is characterized by the following structure:

According to the invention, the flavonate and / or flavanonate, in particular flavonoids, are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, preferably to 0 001% to 10% by weight, preferably to 0.05% to 5% by weight, particularly preferably to 0.1 - 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations

According to the invention, the ascorbyl compound or the ascorbyl compounds, in particular vitamin C, is or are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, preferably at 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably at 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, particularly preferably at 0.1 - 2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations

The combination according to the invention of at least one flavonde pvat and / or flavonde pvat, in particular at least one flavonoid and at least one ascorbyl compound, in particular vitamin C, is also collectively used in the context of this document as “active substance according to the invention” or “active substance used according to the invention” or “active substance combination used according to the invention "inscribed or with related terms

The document JP-OS Heι-06-138,941 describes oral preparations with a. Content of water-soluble glycosides, which can be selected, for example, from the group α-glucosyl rutin, α-glucosyl myπcetin, α-glucosyhsoquercitrin and α-glucosyl-querαtπn. The document JP-OS Heι-04-363,395 describes a process for preventing the decomposition of perfume components , which is characterized inter alia by the addition of α-glucosylrutin to the corresponding preparations. Furthermore, the documents EP-OS 586 303 and EP-OS 595 694 describe the use of flavonoids as antioxidants or light protection substances in cosmetics

No indication can be seen from these shafts, however, which could point in the direction of the present invention

Rather, it was astonishing and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art that preparations according to the use according to the invention would ensure excellent prophylaxis of sunburn, even if the additional presence of UV filter substances or UV blockers is dispensed with was that if the teaching according to the invention is followed, significant relief from already manifest sunburn can be observed

The cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention can be composed as usual and can be used for the treatment, care and cleaning of the skin. They preferably contain 0.001% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1-2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, on active ingredient combinations used according to the invention.

It is preferred according to the invention to add such active ingredient combinations containing complexing agents to the active ingredient combinations or cosmetic or dermatological preparations used according to the invention.

Complexing agents are known auxiliaries in cosmetology and medical galenics. The complexation of interfering metals such as Mn, Fe, Cu and others can, for example, prevent undesirable chemical reactions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations.

Complexing agents, in particular chelators, form complexes with metal atoms which, if one or more polybasic complexing agents, ie chelators, are metal acycles. Chelates are compounds in which a single ligand occupies more than one coordination site on a central atom. In this case, normally elongated connections are closed to form rings by complex formation via a metal atom or ion. The number of ligands bound depends on the coordination number of the central metal. A prerequisite for chelation is that the compound reacting with the metal contains two or more atom groups which act as electron donors.

The complexing agent (s) can advantageously be selected from the group of the usual compounds, preferably at least one substance from the group consisting of tartaric acid and its anions, citric acid and its anions, amino polycarboxylic acids and their anions (such as, for example, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid ( EDTA) and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their anions, hydroxyethylenediaminotriesacetic acid (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethylenaminopentasacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1, 2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and their anions). According to the invention, the complexing agent or complexing agents are advantageous in cosmetic or dermatological preparations, preferably at 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably at 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, particularly preferably at 0.1 - 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations.

For use, the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention are applied to the skin in a sufficient amount in the manner customary for cosmetics.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can be in various forms. So you can e.g. a solution, an anhydrous preparation, an emulsion or microemulsion of the water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) type, a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil type in water (W / OΛ / V), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or an aerosol. It is also advantageous to present isoquercitrin in an encapsulated form, e.g. in collagen matrices and other common encapsulation materials, e.g. as cellulose encapsulation, encapsulated in gelatin, wax matrices or liposomal. In particular, wax matrices as described in DE-OS 43 08 282 have proven to be favorable.

The cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can contain cosmetic auxiliaries as are usually used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, dyes, pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

In particular, active ingredient combinations used according to the invention can also be combined with other antioxidants and / or radical scavengers.

Such antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg Urocanic acid) and their derivatives peptides such as D L-camosin D-carnosine L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. Anseπn) carotenoids carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, ß-carotene lycopin) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, Lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl, and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionmsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very narrow contractual dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acid, palmitic acid , Phytic acid , Lactoferπn), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, oleic acid , Folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and their derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, noredihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and their derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, sesamol, sesamolin, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO), zen and selenium selenium B Stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients fe

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 0.1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the additional antioxidant (s), it is advantageous to choose their respective concentrations from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives or carotenes or their derivatives are the additional antioxidants, their respective concentrations are advantageous to choose from the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Emulsions according to the invention are advantageous and contain e.g. the fats, oils, waxes and other fat bodies mentioned, as well as water and an emulsifier, as is usually used for such a type of formulation.

The lipid phase can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

Mineral oils, mineral waxes - oils such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such as e.g. Castor oil;

Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably

Esters of fatty acids with low C alcohols, e.g. with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerin, or esters of fatty alcohols with low C number alkanoic acids or with fatty acids;

Alkyl benzoates;

Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions for the purposes of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 C- Atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously be selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl ethylhexyl palate 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, erucyl oleate, erucylerucate and synthetic, semisynthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, for example jojoba oil. Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone compounds of the dialkyl ethers from the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols and the fatty acid glycides, namely the Tπglyceπnester saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12 - 18, C atoms. Coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components can also be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous, if appropriate, to use waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component of the oil phase

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotπdecylisononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C ₁₂ . ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglycid, dicaprylyl ether

Mixtures of C ₁ -C ₅ -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl-isostate, mixtures of C ₂ -15 alkyl benzoate and isotπdecyiisononanoate as well as mixtures of C ₁₂ 15-alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotπdecylisononanoate are particularly advantageous

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffinol, squalane and squalene can advantageously be used for the purposes of the present invention

The oil phase can advantageously also have a content of cyclic or linear silicone cones or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other olphase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone cones

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageously used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous in the sense to use the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate are also particularly advantageous.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and also their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, di - Ethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products, furthermore alcohols with a low C number, for example Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, particularly advantageously from the group of polyacrylates, preferably a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopoles, for example carbopoles of types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, each individually or in combination.

Mixtures of the abovementioned solvents are used in particular. Water can also be a component of alcoholic solvents.

Gels according to the invention usually contain low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1, 2-propanediol, glycerol and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickening agent which is preferably silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate in the case of oily-alcoholic gels and preferably a polyacrylate in the case of aqueous-alcoholic or alcoholic gels.

The propellants for preparations according to the invention which can be sprayed from aerosol containers are the customarily known volatile, liquefied propellants, for example Hydrocarbons (propane butane isobutane) are suitable which can be used in combination with each other or in combination

Preparations according to the invention can also advantageously contain substances which absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of filter substances, for example, 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 1 , 0 to 6.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cosmetic preparations which protect the hair or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation. They can also be used as sunscreens for the hair or serve the skin

If the preparations according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they can be soluble or soluble in water. Soluble UVB filters which are advantageous according to the invention are, for example, 3-benzyl-camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzyl) camphor, 3-

Benzylidene camphor,

4-aminobenzoic acid, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) amyl benzoate,

Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester,

Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, salicylic acid (4-isopropylbenzyl) ester, saiicylic acid homomethyl ester,

Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-

Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,

Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, - 2,4,6-Tπanιlιno- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-trιazιn

Advantageous water-soluble UVB filters are, for example

Salts of 2-phenylbenzιmιdazol-5-sulfonic acid such as its sodium, potassium or its ethanol ethanol salt, and the sulfonic acid itself,

Suifonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzyldenocamphers, such as, for example, 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene-methyl) benzenesulfonic acid , 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylιdenmethyl) sulfonic acid and their salts and the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, for example the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid

The list of UVB filters mentioned, which can be used in combination with the active compound combinations according to the invention, is of course not intended to be limiting.

The invention also relates to the use of a combination of the active compound combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant or the use of a combination of the active compound combinations used according to the invention with at least one UVB filter as an antioxidant in a cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

It may also be advantageous to combine the active substance combinations used according to the invention with UVA filters, which have hitherto usually been contained in cosmetic preparations. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. These combinations or preparations which contain these combinations are also the subject of the invention. The quantities used for the UVB combination can be used.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations with an effective content of active ingredient combinations used according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are usually used in cosmetics to protect the skin from UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, zinc, zirconium, silicon, manganese, cerium and mixtures thereof, as well as modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. It is particularly preferred to use pigments based on titanium dioxide.

These combinations of UVA filter and pigment or preparations containing this combination are also the subject of the invention. The quantities mentioned for the above combinations can be used. For the purposes of the present invention, electrolytes are understood to mean water-soluble alkali, ammonium, alkaline earth (including magnesium) and zinc salts of inorganic anions and any mixtures of such salts, it being necessary to ensure that these salts are pharmaceutically or cosmetically safe. distinction

The anions according to the invention are preferably selected from the group of chlorides, sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, phosphates, hydrogen phosphates and linear and cyclic oligophosphates as well as carbonates and hydrogen carbonates

These cosmetic or dermatological preparations can also be aerosols with the auxiliaries usually used for them

The amount of active ingredient combinations used according to the invention in these preparations is preferably 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.05-5% by weight, in particular 0.1-2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all amounts, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations

example 1

O / W cream

% By weight

Glyceryl stearate 5.00

Cetyl alcohol 5.00

Isopropyl palmitate 7.00

Cyclomethicone 5.00

Ascorbic acid 3.00 α-glucosylrutin 0.30

NaOH 45% 1.00

Butylene glycol 3.00

Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.20

Dyes, perfume, q.s. Preservative water ad 100.00

Example 2

O / W lotion

% By weight

Steareth-20 3.00

Cetyl alcohol 3.00

Cyclomethicone 6.00

Carbomer 0.60

Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.20

Butylene glycol 3.00

NaOH 45% 0.40

Ascorbic acid 0.50 α-glucosylrutin 0.10

Dyes, perfume, qs preservative water ad 100.00 Example 3

W / O cream

% By weight

Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate 5.00

Caprylic / Capric Triglyeeride 15.00

Butylene glycol 3.00

Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.20

MgSO ₄ 0.70

NaOH 45% 0.32

Ascorbic acid 1.00 α-glucosyl rutin 0.20

Dyes, perfume, q.s.

Preservative

Water ad 100.00

Example 4

OΛΛΛGel

% By weight

Xanthan gum 2.00

Butylene glycol 3.00

Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.20

NaOH 45% 0.32

Ascorbic acid 1.00 α-glucosylrutin 0.20

Dyes, perfume, q.s.

Preservative

Water ad 100.00 Example 5

O / W hair treatment

% By weight

Bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2 3.00

Behenyl alcohol 4.00

Butylene glycol 3.00

Cetrimonium chloride 5.00

Citric acid 0.50

Na ₂ H ₂ EDTA 0.20

NaOH 45% 0.16

Ascorbic acid 0.50 α-glucosylrutin 0.10

Dyes, perfume, q.s.

Preservative

Water ad 100.00

Example 6

Sunscreen emulsion

% By weight

Cyclomethicone 2.00

Cetylstearyl alcohol + PEG 40 hydrogenated 2.50

Castor oil + sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate

Glyceryl alcoholate 1.00

Caprylic acid / capric acid triglyceride 0.10

Laurylmethicone Copolyol 2.00

Octyl stearate 3.00

Castor oil 4.00

Glycerin 3.00

Acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymer 0.30

Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose 0.30

Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.00

Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane 0.75 α-glucosyl rutin 0.50

Ascorbyl-2-glucoside 1, 00

Epigallocatechinate 0.20 α-tocopheryl acetate 1.00

Na ₃ HEDTA 1, 50

Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.

Water ad 100.00

Example 7

O / W lotion

% By weight

Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 8.00

Isopropyl palmitate 3.00

Petrolatum 4.00,

Cetylstearyl alcohol 2.00

PEG 40 castor oil 0.50

Sodium cetyl stearyl sulfate 0.50

Sodium carbomer 0.40 α-glucosyl rutin 0.50

Glycerin 3.00

Ascorbyl palmitate 1, 00

Octyl methoxycinnamate 5.00

Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane 1.00

Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.

Epigallocatechalate 0.05

Water ad 100.00

Example 8

O / W cream

% By weight

Paraffin oil (DAB 9) 7.00

Avocado oil 4.00

Glyceryl monostearate 2.00 α-glucosyl rutin 0.80

Mg ascorbyl phosphate 0.50

Sodium lactate 3.00

Glycerin 3.00

Preservatives, dyes, perfume q.s.

Epigallocatechalate 3.00

Water ad 100.00

Claims

claims

1 Use of ascorbic acid and / or ascorbyl compounds and one or more Flavondeπvaten and / or Flavanondeπvaten, in particular flavonoids for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparation for the prophylaxis or alleviation of sunburn

2 Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the active ingredient or ingredients selected from the group of flavones, flavanones and flavonoids is present in an effective content in cosmetic or dermatological preparations

3 Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the active ingredient or ingredients selected from the group of flavones, flavanones and flavonoids in cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations in concentrations of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.05-5 % By weight, in particular 0.1-2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, is present

4 Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the active ingredient or ingredients selected from the group of ascorbic acid and the ascorbyl compounds is present in an effective content in cosmetic or dermatological preparations

5 Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the ascorbyl compounds are selected from the group ascorbyl palmitate, Natπumascorbylphosphat, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, zinc ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl-2-glucosιd

6 Use according to claim 4, characterized in that the active ingredient or ingredients selected from the group of ascorbic acid and the ascorbyl compounds in cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations in concentrations of 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.05-5% by weight , in particular 0.1-2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations

7 Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the α-glucosylrutin selected as the active ingredient selected from the group of flavones, flavanones and flavonoids

8. Use according to claim 2, characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological preparations additionally contain one or more complexing agents.

9. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the complexing agent (s) is or are selected from the group consisting of tartaric acid and its anions, citric acid and its anions, aminopolycarboxylic acids and their anions (such as, for example, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and their anions, nitrilotriacetic acid and their anions, Hydroxyethylene diamine triacetic acid and its anions, diethylene aminopentaacetic acid and its anions, trans-1, 2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid and its anions).

10. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the complexing agent or complexing agents are preferred in the cosmetic or dermatological preparations

0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-2.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the Preparations that are or are included.