EP1167603A1 - Stretchable raschel warp knit fabric - Google Patents
Stretchable raschel warp knit fabric Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP1167603A1 EP1167603A1 EP99972271A EP99972271A EP1167603A1 EP 1167603 A1 EP1167603 A1 EP 1167603A1 EP 99972271 A EP99972271 A EP 99972271A EP 99972271 A EP99972271 A EP 99972271A EP 1167603 A1 EP1167603 A1 EP 1167603A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- knit fabric
- fiber
- courses
- type
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
- D01F—CHEMICAL FEATURES IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS; APPARATUS SPECIALLY ADAPTED FOR THE MANUFACTURE OF CARBON FILAMENTS
- D01F6/00—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof
- D01F6/58—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from homopolycondensation products
- D01F6/62—Monocomponent artificial filaments or the like of synthetic polymers; Manufacture thereof from homopolycondensation products from polyesters
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/10—Open-work fabrics
- D04B21/12—Open-work fabrics characterised by thread material
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
- D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/02—Underwear
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric.
- stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabrics with an elastomeric fiber such as spandex laid therein, are of a satin net structure such as a four-course satin net, a six-course satin net or a ten-course satin net mixed with nylon fiber; a power net structure; a triconet structure; and a combined structure of elastomeric fiber and a net knitted by using two guide bar (thread guides).
- These stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabrics are mainly used for making a foundation garment such as a brasiere, a girdle or a body suit; and underwear such as shorts; pants or stretchable underwear. They are also used for making a swim suit, a spat, a leotard and cycling pants, and they can be used for making a jumper or a top after being laminated or coated.
- a girdle or a body suit made from the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric composed of polyethylene terephthalate fiber combined with elastomeric fiber laid in, is liable to have several drawbacks including "grinning" (a phenomenon in that after being stretched, the fabric cannot be immediately recovered to the original state) which appears when excessive stretching is applied thereto upon putting-on or off or after stretching/shrinking has been repeated during use on a human body.
- the knit fabric containing polyethylene terephthalate fiber must be knitted under a low knitting tension to cause the touch of the finished fabric to be as soft as possible, which in turn is liable to induce the grinning defect, whereby the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric could be produced solely under extremely limited conditions.
- An object of the present invention is to solve the above-mentioned problems of the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric into which elastomeric fiber is insert-knit and provide a stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric free from yellowing, having soft touch and being free from the grinning.
- Such an object of the present invention is achievable by a stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric formed of a ground structure of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber combined with elastomeric fiber laid in, wherein the knit fabric has a number of courses in a range from 100 to 200 courses per 2.54 cm, and a product of the number of courses and the number of wales per 2.54 cm is in a range from 4,000 to 8,000.
- the fiber forming the ground structure is polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber composed of trimethylene terephthalate units of approximately 50 mol% or more, preferably 70 mol% or more, more preferably 80 mol% or more, most preferably 90 mol% or more, and a third component; i.e., another acidic and/or glycolic component described later; of approximately 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less, most preferably 10 mol% or less.
- trimethylene terephthalate fiber composed of trimethylene terephthalate units of approximately 50 mol% or more, preferably 70 mol% or more, more preferably 80 mol% or more, most preferably 90 mol% or more, and a third component; i.e., another acidic and/or glycolic component described later; of approximately 50 mol% or less, preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or less, most preferably 10 mol% or less.
- the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used in the present invention may be prepared by a method wherein, after an undrawn yarn has been obtained at a takeup speed of approximately 1,500 m/min, it is drawn at a draw ratio in a range from approximately 2 to 3.5 times or a spin-draw method, wherein a spinning process is directly combined with a drawing process or a spin-takeup method wherein a yarn spun from a spinning machine is directly taken up at a high speed of 5,000 m/min or more.
- the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber may be a continuous filament or staple fiber, including those uniform or irregular in fineness in the lengthwise direction, with a cross-sectional shape which may be circular, triangular, polygonal, multi-lobal or indefinite, including an L-shape, a T-shape, a Y-shape, a W-shape, an octagonal lobal shape, a flat shape and a dog-bone shape.
- the fiber may be either solid or hollow.
- the fiber may be converted to a yarn form such as a spun yarn manufactured on a ring spinning frame or an open end spinning frame, a filament yarn having a filament fineness in a range from 0.1 to 5.6 dtex (including an ultra-fine yarn), a soft or hard twisted yarn, a mixed fiber yarn, a false-twist textured yarn (including a draw-false twist textured yarn of POY) or an air jet textured yarn.
- a yarn form such as a spun yarn manufactured on a ring spinning frame or an open end spinning frame, a filament yarn having a filament fineness in a range from 0.1 to 5.6 dtex (including an ultra-fine yarn), a soft or hard twisted yarn, a mixed fiber yarn, a false-twist textured yarn (including a draw-false twist textured yarn of POY) or an air jet textured yarn.
- the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber may be mixed with natural fiber represented by wool generally in an amount of 30% or less by weight, unless the resultant yarn is contradictory to the object of the present invention, through a fiber-mixing means, such as a mixed-spinning process (including CIRO-spun or CIRO-fil), an entanglement mixing process (wherein yarns having various shrinkages are mixed together), a mixed-twisting process, a composite false-twist process (including an elongation-difference false-twist process) or a two-feed air jet texturing process.
- a fiber-mixing means such as a mixed-spinning process (including CIRO-spun or CIRO-fil), an entanglement mixing process (wherein yarns having various shrinkages are mixed together), a mixed-twisting process, a composite false-twist process (including an elongation-difference false-twist process) or a two-feed air jet texturing process
- the fiber fineness is selected from a range from 220 to 560 dtex,; in a power net, from 220 to 560 dtex; in a triconet, from 78 to 560 dtex; and in a net knitted by using two thread guides for elastomeric yarns, from 78 to 560 dtex for a back thread guide No. 1 and from 30 to 78 dtex for a back thread guide No. 2.
- the elastomeric fiber may be either a bare yarn or a covered yarn of a polyurethane type elastomeric fiber, the bare yarn is preferable in view of the ease of warping or the improvement in stretchability of the knit fabric.
- Examples of a knit structure of the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present invention are a satin net structure (which may be called a satin structure) such as a four-course satin net, a six-course satin net or a ten-course satin net, a power net structure, a triconet structure and a combined structure of a net and elastomeric fibers fed through two thread guides.
- the satin net structure is preferably used because it is rich in luster and excellent in stretchability as well as being usable for general purposes.
- the elastomeric fiber is basically laid in the knit structure.
- a loop structure of the knit fabric may be either an open loop, a closed loop or any combination thereof.
- a preferable example of the satin net structure is a six-course satin net represented by the following examples.
- Polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is threaded to a front thread guide for knitting the satin net structure and elastomeric fiber is threaded to a back thread guide.
- a knit structure knitted by the front thread guide is positionally shifted to a knit structure knitted by the back thread guide (see Example 2 below).
- the number of courses per 2.54 cm of the finished knit fabric is in a range from 100 to 170, preferably from 120 to 170, and a product of the number of courses per 2.54 cm and the number of wales per 2.54 cm is in a range from 4,000 to 8,000.
- the resultant knit fabric has a hard touch and also the basis weight or the thickness thereof becomes larger because of a stretchability inherent to the material. As the knit density becomes lower, the resultant fabric is softer in touch, smaller in thickness and lighter in basis of weight. However, the lower the knit density, the smaller the constraint to the elastomeric fiber by the polytrimethylene fiber, whereby the generation of grinning in the knit fabric becomes conspicuous. To obtain a stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric soft in touch and free from grinning, it is indispensable to select the number of courses and the product of the numbers of courses and wales in the above-mentioned range.
- a fabric density in the warp direction is less than 100 courses/2.54 cm, the surface appearance of the raschel-type warp knit fabric becomes worse, and a burst strength thereof is extremely lowered. Contrarily, while the surface appearance and the burst strength are improved if the fabric density in the warp direction is more than 200 courses/2.54 cm, the touch becomes hard because the basis of weight and the thickness of the fabric are too large.
- a total fabric density i.e., a product of the number of courses/ 2.54 cm and the number of wales/ 2.54 cm (hereinafter referred to a "product density"); is another important factor. It is necessary that the product density is in a range from 4,000 to 8,000, preferably from 4,500 to 7,000, more preferably from 5,000 to 6,500. If the product density is less than 4,000, the touch becomes soft. However, the surface appearance becomes worse and grinning is liable to occur due to the loosening of knit structure. In addition, the burst strength lowers to an extreme extent. On the other hand, if the product density exceeds 8,000, the knit fabric has a satisfactory burst strength and is free from the generation of grinning. However, such a fabric is unsuitable for foundation wear use because the touch thereof is hard.
- a single raschel machine having a needle gauge in a range from 48 to 64 needles/5.08 cm (from 24 to 32 needles/2.54 cm) is preferably used.
- a grey fabric favorably used for the present invention it is necessary to knit the same while increasing a runner length of yarns to more than in a mixed fiber knit fabric composed of nylon fiber or polyethylene terephthalate fiber and elastomeric fiber and decreasing the number of courses on the machine.
- the runner length of the trimethylene terephthalate fiber and the elastomeric fiber and the number of courses on the machine should be selected so that the predetermined knit density is achieved in the final fabric obtained by scouring the grey fabric, presetting it under tension in the width direction before dyeing to have substantially the same width and length as those of the dyed fabric, and dyeing and finishing it.
- the setting may be carried out under known condition such as at a temperature in a range from 150 to 200°C for a time in a range from 30 to 60 seconds.
- the presetting process is preferably carried out at approximately 190°C, and the final setting process is preferably carried out at approximately 170°C, so that the setting and the color fastness are improved.
- a liquid stream type dyeing machine is preferably used for carrying out the dyeing of the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric because of the increased breaking or mellowing effect applied to the latter.
- the number of courses on the machine is set at a lower level, preferably in a range from 65 to 85 courses/2.54 cm, and a grey fabric is knitted under a proper knitting tension. More specifically, the grey fabric is preferably knitted by combining a runner length of a front yarn in a range from 1,250 to 1,350 mm/rack (1 rack: a yarn length necessary for knitting 480 courses) with a runner length of a back yarn in a range from 120 to 165 mm/rack and by adjusting a product of the runner lengths of front and back yarns in a range from 150,000 to 215,000.
- the fabric density is easily adjustable when the fabric is finished. If the product of the runner lengths of front and back yarns is selected to be 150,000 or less, the course density or the fabric density is liable to increase whereby the finished fabric has a harder touch or a smaller elongation. Contrarily, if the product is 215,000 or more, the knitting tension becomes excessively low whereby the fabric structure becomes unstable even in the grey fabric to cause grinning in the finished fabric. Then, in the dyeing and finishing process, the grey fabric is widened in the presetting step after the scouring so that the product density is, for example, in a range from 3,500 to 6,000.
- the knit fabric of such a design has the predetermined knit density and is free from problems in fabric shrinkage such as laundering shrinkage and pressing shrinkage.
- the setting step is carried out at a temperature in a range from 150 to 200°C, preferably at 190°C when preset and at 170°C when finally set, to result in the warp knit fabric being easily settable and free from drawbacks in color fastness.
- the polytrimethylene terephthalate forming the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used for the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present invention is synthesized by combining terephthalic acid or functional derivative thereof and trimethylene glycol or functional derivative thereof in the presence of a catalyst and under suitable reactive conditions. During this synthesizing process, one kind or more of suitable third components are added to obtain a copolymerized polyester. Otherwise, after a polyester other than polytrimethylene terephthalate, such as polyethylene terephthalate or nylon, has been synthesized separately from polytrimethylene terephthalate, they are blended with each other or compositely spun (to obtain a sheath-core type yarn or a side-by-side type yarn).
- the third component to be added when the polytrimethylene terephthalate is synthesized includes an aliphatic dicarbonic acid (oxalic acid, adipic acid or the like), a cycloaliphatic dicarbonic acid (cyclohexane dicarbonic acid or the like), an aromatic dicarbonic acid (isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid or the like), an aliphatic glycol, (ethylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol or the like), a cycloaliphatic glycol (cyclohexane dimethanol or the like), an aliphatic glycol containing aromatic group (1, 4-bis( ⁇ -hydoxyethoxy) benzene or the like), a polyether glycol (polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol or the like), an aliphatic oxycarbonic acid ( ⁇ -oxycapronic acid or the like) or an aromatic oxycarbonic acid
- the polytrimethylene terephthalate may contain, by adding during the spinning, a delustering agent such as titanium dioxide, a stabilizing agent such as phosphoric acid, an ultraviolet absorbing agent such as derivative of hydroxybenzophenone, a crystal neucleator, such as talc, a lubricant such as aerozil, an antioxidant such as derivative of hindered phenol, a flame retardant, an antistatic agent, a pigment, a fluorescent whitener, an infrared absorbing agent, and an antifoaming agent.
- a delustering agent such as titanium dioxide
- a stabilizing agent such as phosphoric acid
- an ultraviolet absorbing agent such as derivative of hydroxybenzophenone
- a crystal neucleator such as talc
- a lubricant such as aerozil
- an antioxidant such as derivative of hindered phenol
- a flame retardant an antistatic agent
- a pigment e.g., a fluorescent whitener
- an infrared absorbing agent e
- a strength, an elongation, an initial tensile resistance (Young's modulus) and an elastic recovery at 10% elongation are 2.8 cN/dtex, 46%, 27 cN/dtex and 98%, respectively.
- the elastic recovery at 10% elongation of the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is measured in such a manner that the fiber is attached to a tensile tester, so that a grip length is 10 cm, and is stretched by 10% at a speed of 20 cm/min, and is left as it is for 1 minute. Thereafter, the fiber is made to shrink at the same speed as before so that a stress-strain curve is obtained.
- the viscosity ⁇ sp/c of polytrimethylene terephthalate polymer is measured in such a manner that the polymer is dissolved in o-chlorophenol at a concentration of 1 g/dl, and the solution thus obtained is transferred to an Ostwald viscometer and measured at 35°C.
- the fineness of the elastomeric fiber is measured as follows:
- the elastomeric fiber is relaxed under a condition at 20°C and 65% RH while being stationarily placed on a desk, with no load, in a tensionless state. Thereafter, samples of 1,000 mm long are prepared therefrom, and ten of them are weighed together. The measured value is converted to a weight of the fiber of 10,000 m long; that is, a dtex value.
- a degree of softness is evaluated in accordance with a JIS-L-1096 Method A for the measurement of hardness and softness (a 45-degree cantilever method), except for changing a size of a test piece to 25 mm X 150 mm.
- the degree of softness is calculated by equation (2). If the value thus obtained is less than 125 mm, it is determined that the sample has a soft touch, while if the value is 125 mm or more, it is determined that the sample has a hard touch.
- Degree of softness moving length of normally placed warp-directional test piece + moving length of reversely placed warp-directional test piece + moving length of normally placed transverse-directional test piece + moving length of reversely placed transverse-directional test piece--- (2)
- the sewing thread used is a wooly nylon of 235 dtex, the sewing pitch is 13 stitches/2.54 cm, and the needle used is of a ball point type #11.
- a test piece thus obtained is sufficiently immersed into an aqueous solution of weak alkaline synthetic detergent, and then fixed to an elongation fatigue tester (available from Takemoto Systems; Dematcher tester) so that the seam is located at a center at a grip length of 70 mm.
- the test piece is stretched and relaxed at a predetermined stroke (described later) and a speed of 200 cycles/min so that the elongation and relaxation are repeated 10,000 for cycles.
- the test piece is observed for the surface and profile appearance, the disturbance of fabric structure and breakage of elastomeric fiber. The determination is made on the basis of the following criteria:
- test piece when tested by the elongation fatigue tester, an amount of elongation of test piece is measured in the following manner:
- a test piece 200 mm long in the warp direction and 25.4 mm long in the transverse direction, is prepared from the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric, and is attached to a Tensilon tensile tester.
- a tensile test is carried out at an initial load of 4.9 cN, a grip length of 100 mm and a stretching speed of 300 mm/min, and elongations at loads of 9.8 N and 14.7 N are measured, from which the amount of elongation is determined by the following equation (3):
- Amount of elongation (%) [(elongation at 9.8 N load) + (elongation at 14.7 N load)] / 2
- the yellowing is measured in accordance with a JIS-L-0855 method for color fastness to nitric oxide gas; a weak test.
- a test piece 25.4 mm long in the warp direction and 200 mm long in the transverse direction, is prepared from the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric, and stretched by a Tensilon tensile tester under the condition of an initial load of 4.9 cN, a grip length of 100 mm and a stretching speed of 300 mm/min until the load reaches 14.7 N, at which elongation is measured.
- a mold of 60 mm diameter and 75 mm height is applied under pressure onto the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric by means of a draw mold machine (available from Daido Company) to cause the plastic deformation in the knit fabric.
- the molded state of the deformed knit fabric is estimated in accordance with the following criteria.
- the mold having a constant temperature of 180°C is pressed onto the test piece having a size of 30 cm X 30 cm for 30 seconds so that a molding depth of 20 mm is obtained.
- a six-course satin net was knit from polytrimethylene fiber of 56 dtex/36f used as a warp yarn for a front thread guide and polyurethane type elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.; a trade name: Loica) of 310 dtex used as a warp yarn for a back thread guide while drafted at a ratio of 80%, under the following condition:
- the finished stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric has a basis of weight of 206 g/m 2 and a thickness of 0.53 mm, is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as well as being free from grinning. Further, this fabric is excellent in transverse elongation and the heat-moldability, in comparison with the conventional product and, therefore, most suitable for foundation wear use.
- Example 1 The same grey fabric as prepared in Example 1 was preset to have different fabric densities and was finished in accordance therewith. Test pieces were prepared and tested. The results are shown in Table 1.
- the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as well as being free from grinning. Further, this fabric is excellent in transverse elongation and the heat-moldability in comparison with the conventional product and, therefore, most suitable for foundation wear use.
- Test pieces were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except for changing the runner length to various sizes. The estimated results are shown in Table 1.
- the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as well as being free from grinning. Further this fabric is excellent in transverse elongation and heat-moldability in comparison with the conventional product, and therefore most suitable for foundation wear use.
- Test pieces were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except for changing the polyurethane type elastomeric fiber used as a back warp yarn to a covering yarn (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.; prepared by single-covering Loica of 230 dtex with cotton of 74 dtex). The evaluation results were shown in Table 1.
- the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as well as being free from grinning. Further this fabric is excellent in the transverse elongation and the heat-moldability in comparison with the conventional product, and therefore most suitable for foundation wear use.
- a six-course satin net was knitted from polytrimethylene fiber of 56 dtex/36f used as a warp yarn for a front thread guide and polyurethane type elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.; a trade name: Loica) of 310 dtex used as a warp yarn for a back thread guide while drafted at a ratio of 80%, under the following condition:
- the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present invention is free from yellowing and soft in touch as well as free from grinning. Further this fabric is excellent in the transverse elongation and the heat-moldability in comparison with the conventional product, and therefore most suitable for foundation wear use.
- a six-course satin net was knitted from polytrimethylene fiber of 40 dtex/24f used as a warp yarn for a front thread guide and polyurethane type elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.; a trade name: Loica) of 310 dtex used as a warp yarn for a back thread guide while drafted at a ratio of 80%, under the following conditions:
- the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as well as being free from grinning. Further, this fabric is excellent in the transverse elongation and the heat-moldability in comparison with the conventional product and, therefore most suitable for foundation wear use.
- a six-course satin net was knitted from polytrimethylene fiber of 84 dtex/48f used as a warp yarn for a front thread guide and polyurethane type elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.; a trade name: Loica) of 310 dtex used as a warp yarn for a back thread guide while drafted at a ratio of 80%, under the following conditions:
- the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as well as being free from grinning. Further this fabric is excellent in transverse elongation and heat-moldability in comparison with the conventional product, and therefore is most suitable for foundation wear use.
- a power net was knit from polytrimethylene fiber of 56 dtex/36f used as a warp yarn for front thread guides Nos. 1 and 2 and polyurethane type elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.; a trade name: Loica) of 78 dtex used as a warp yarn for back thread guides Nos. 1 and 2 while drafted at a ratio of 80%, under the following conditions:
- the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as well as being free from grinning, and therefore is most suitable for foundation wear use.
- a triconet was knitted from polytrimethylene fiber of 56 dtex/36f used as a warp yarn for a front thread guide No. 1, that of 40 dtex/24f used as a warp yarn for a front thread guide No. 2 and polyurethane type elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.; a trade name: Loica) of 78 dtex used as a warp yarn for a back thread guide while drafted at a ratio of 80%, under the following conditions:
- the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as well as being free from grinning, and therefore is most suitable for foundation wear use.
- a knit fabric of a combination of a two-thread guide elastomeric fiber structure and a net was knitted from polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber of 56 dtex/36f used as a warp yarn of a front thread guide and polyurethane type elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.; a trade name: Loica) of 155 dtex and 44 dtex used as a warp yarn of back thread guides Nos. 1 and 2, respectively, while drafted at a ratio of 80%, under the following condition:
- the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as well as being free from grinning, and therefore is most suitable for foundation wear use.
- Example 2 The same grey fabric as prepared in Example 1 was preset to have different fabric densities and finished in accordance therewith, from which test pieces were prepared. The results of evaluation are shown in Table 2.
- the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric obtained from the above Comparative examples is free from yellowing but unsatisfactory in view of either softness or grinning, and therefore is unsuitable for foundation wear use.
- a stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that polyamide 6 fiber of 56 dtex/36f is used as a warp yarn for a front thread guide.
- the evaluation results are shown in Table 2.
- Table 2 the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric obtained from the above Comparative example is unsatisfactory due to the generation of yellowing and grinning, and therefore is unsuitable for foundation wear use.
- a six-course satin net was knitted from polyamide 6 fiber of 56 dtex/36f used as a warp yarn for a front thread guide and polyurethane type elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.; a trade name: Loica) of 310 dtex used as a warp yarn for a back thread guide while drafted at a ratio of 80%, under the following conditions:
- a knit fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that polyethylene terephthalate fiber of 56 dtex/36f is used as a warp yarn for a front thread guide.
- the evaluation results are shown in Table 2, from which it is apparent that this knit fabric is soft in touch and free from the yellowing, but unsuitable for an inner wear use due to the generation of grinning.
- a knit fabric was prepared in the same manner as in Comparative example 5, except that polyethylene terephthalate fiber of 56 dtex/36f is used as a warp yarn for a front thread guide.
- the results evaluation are shown in Table 2, from which it is apparent that this knit fabric is free from the yellowing and grinning, but unsuitable for an underwear use because the touch thereof becomes hard.
- Knit fabrics were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except for changing the runner length. The results evaluation are shown in Table 2, from which it is apparent that these knit fabrics are free from yellowing but are unsuitable for underwear use because of the deterioration of touch and the generation of grinning.
- Knit fabrics were prepared in the same manner as in Example 12 except for the fabric density at presetting or the runner length.
- the evaluation results are shown in Tables 2 and 3, from which it is apparent that these knit fabrics are free from yellowing but are unsuitable for underwear use because of the deterioration of touch and the generation of grinning.
- Knit fabrics were prepared in the same manner as in Example 13 except for changing the runner length.
- the evaluation results are shown in Table 3, from which it is apparent that these knit fabrics are free from yellowing but are unsuitable for underwear use because of the deterioration of touch and the generation of grinning.
- Knit fabrics were prepared in the same manner as in Example 14 except for changing the runner length.
- the estimated results are shown in Table 3, from which it is apparent that these knit fabrics are free from yellowing but are unsuitable for underwear use, sport wear use or outer wear use because of the deterioration of touch and the generation of grinning defect.
- the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present invention is free from yellowing, is soft in touch as well as being free from generation of grinning, and has a unique surface feel, not obtainable from a knit fabric including nylon fiber. Since the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present invention is excellent in heat-moldability, it is suitably used for underwear such as foundation wear, sports wear, such as a swim suits, or outer wear.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
Abstract
A stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric is provided, which is formed of a ground structure of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber combined with elastomeric fiber laid in, wherein the knit fabric has a number of courses in a range from 100 to 200 courses per 2.54 cm, and a product of the number of courses and the number of wales per 2.54 cm in a range from 4,000 to 8,000. This knit fabric is free from yellowing, is soft in touch as well being as free from the generation of grinning and is suitably used for elastic wear because of its excellent heat-moldability.
Description
The present invention relates to a stretchable
raschel-type warp knit fabric.
Most of stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabrics,
with an elastomeric fiber such as spandex laid therein,
are of a satin net structure such as a four-course satin
net, a six-course satin net or a ten-course satin net
mixed with nylon fiber; a power net structure; a triconet
structure; and a combined structure of elastomeric fiber
and a net knitted by using two guide bar (thread guides).
These stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabrics are
mainly used for making a foundation garment such as a
brasiere, a girdle or a body suit; and underwear such as
shorts; pants or stretchable underwear. They are also
used for making a swim suit, a spat, a leotard and
cycling pants, and they can be used for making a jumper
or a top after being laminated or coated.
There is a problem, however, in the stretchable
raschel-type warp knit fabric, wherein nylon fiber is
used for forming a ground structure, in that the
yellowing inherent to the nylon fiber, which occurs due
to the heat setting during the dyeing or finishing of the
fabric, or the influence of NOX gas while the fabric is
stocked, has not yet been solved. At present, to avoid
yellowing, the dyeing is carried out at a low temperature
or the finished goods is stored in a completely sealed
package. Such countermeasures are, however, problematic
because the stretchability is lowered and the procedure
for product delivery becomes extremely troublesome.
There has been an attempt to produce a stretchable
raschel-type warp knit fabric composed of polyethylene
terephthalate fiber practically free from the yellowing
and elastomeric fiber however, while the problem of
yellowing could be solved, the knit fabric became harder
to deteriorate a soft touch necessary for a foundation
garment, which touch could be obtained if nylon fiber was
used instead of the polyethylene terephthalate fiber. For
this reason, the stretchable warp knit fabric containing
polyethylene terephthalate fiber has hardly been used for
making foundation garments requiring a soft touch because
they are worn in contact with a human skin.
Also, a girdle or a body suit made from the
stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric composed of
polyethylene terephthalate fiber combined with
elastomeric fiber laid in, is liable to have several
drawbacks including "grinning" (a phenomenon in that
after being stretched, the fabric cannot be immediately
recovered to the original state) which appears when
excessive stretching is applied thereto upon putting-on
or off or after stretching/shrinking has been repeated
during use on a human body. Particularly, the knit fabric
containing polyethylene terephthalate fiber must be
knitted under a low knitting tension to cause the touch
of the finished fabric to be as soft as possible, which
in turn is liable to induce the grinning defect, whereby
the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric could be
produced solely under extremely limited conditions.
An object of the present invention is to solve the
above-mentioned problems of the stretchable raschel-type
warp knit fabric into which elastomeric fiber is insert-knit
and provide a stretchable raschel-type warp knit
fabric free from yellowing, having soft touch and being
free from the grinning.
Such an object of the present invention is
achievable by a stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric
formed of a ground structure of polytrimethylene
terephthalate fiber combined with elastomeric fiber laid
in, wherein the knit fabric has a number of courses in a
range from 100 to 200 courses per 2.54 cm, and a product
of the number of courses and the number of wales per 2.54
cm is in a range from 4,000 to 8,000.
According to the present invention, the fiber
forming the ground structure is polytrimethylene
terephthalate fiber composed of trimethylene
terephthalate units of approximately 50 mol% or more,
preferably 70 mol% or more, more preferably 80 mol% or
more, most preferably 90 mol% or more, and a third
component; i.e., another acidic and/or glycolic component
described later; of approximately 50 mol% or less,
preferably 30 mol% or less, more preferably 20 mol% or
less, most preferably 10 mol% or less.
The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used in the
present invention may be prepared by a method wherein,
after an undrawn yarn has been obtained at a takeup speed
of approximately 1,500 m/min, it is drawn at a draw ratio
in a range from approximately 2 to 3.5 times or a spin-draw
method, wherein a spinning process is directly
combined with a drawing process or a spin-takeup method
wherein a yarn spun from a spinning machine is directly
taken up at a high speed of 5,000 m/min or more.
The polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber may be a
continuous filament or staple fiber, including those
uniform or irregular in fineness in the lengthwise
direction, with a cross-sectional shape which may be
circular, triangular, polygonal, multi-lobal or
indefinite, including an L-shape, a T-shape, a Y-shape, a
W-shape, an octagonal lobal shape, a flat shape and a
dog-bone shape. The fiber may be either solid or hollow.
The fiber may be converted to a yarn form such as a spun
yarn manufactured on a ring spinning frame or an open end
spinning frame, a filament yarn having a filament
fineness in a range from 0.1 to 5.6 dtex (including an
ultra-fine yarn), a soft or hard twisted yarn, a mixed
fiber yarn, a false-twist textured yarn (including a
draw-false twist textured yarn of POY) or an air jet
textured yarn.
In this regard, the polytrimethylene terephthalate
fiber may be mixed with natural fiber represented by wool
generally in an amount of 30% or less by weight, unless
the resultant yarn is contradictory to the object of the
present invention, through a fiber-mixing means, such as
a mixed-spinning process (including CIRO-spun or CIRO-fil),
an entanglement mixing process (wherein yarns
having various shrinkages are mixed together), a mixed-twisting
process, a composite false-twist process
(including an elongation-difference false-twist process)
or a two-feed air jet texturing process.
The elastomeric fiber used in the present invention
is spandex fiber having a good elasticity, such as that
of a polyurethane type or a polyether/ester type, wherein
kinds of polymer and/or spinning methods for obtaining
the same are not limited. Preferably, the elastomer fiber
has an elongation at break in a range from 100% to 1,000%
and the stretchability thereof is not lowered even at a
high temperature of approximately 180°C which is usually
adopted in a presetting process of the dyeing operation.
A fineness of the elastomeric fiber is preferably in a
range from 30 to 780 dtex, and should be selected in
accordance with structures of the knit fabric. For
example, in a six-course satin net, the fiber fineness is
selected from a range from 220 to 560 dtex,; in a power
net, from 220 to 560 dtex; in a triconet, from 78 to 560
dtex; and in a net knitted by using two thread guides for
elastomeric yarns, from 78 to 560 dtex for a back thread
guide No. 1 and from 30 to 78 dtex for a back thread
guide No. 2.
While the elastomeric fiber may be either a bare
yarn or a covered yarn of a polyurethane type elastomeric
fiber, the bare yarn is preferable in view of the ease of
warping or the improvement in stretchability of the knit
fabric.
Examples of a knit structure of the stretchable
raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present
invention are a satin net structure (which may be called
a satin structure) such as a four-course satin net, a
six-course satin net or a ten-course satin net, a power
net structure, a triconet structure and a combined
structure of a net and elastomeric fibers fed through two
thread guides. The satin net structure is preferably used
because it is rich in luster and excellent in
stretchability as well as being usable for general
purposes.
Preferably, the elastomeric fiber is basically laid
in the knit structure. A loop structure of the knit
fabric may be either an open loop, a closed loop or any
combination thereof.
Polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber may be fed
through two thread guides to form a ground structure, and
elastomeric fiber may be laid in through two thread
guides, but the knit structure should not be limited
thereto.
A preferable example of the satin net structure is a
six-course satin net represented by the following
examples. Polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is
threaded to a front thread guide for knitting the satin
net structure and elastomeric fiber is threaded to a back
thread guide. In some cases, a knit structure knitted by
the front thread guide is positionally shifted to a knit
structure knitted by the back thread guide (see Example 2
below).
According to the present invention, to obtain,
irrespective of the kind of the knit structure, a dyed
and finished raschel-type warp knit fabric soft in touch
and free from grinning during the use, it is important
that the number of courses per 2.54 cm of the finished
knit fabric is in a range from 100 to 170, preferably
from 120 to 170, and a product of the number of courses
per 2.54 cm and the number of wales per 2.54 cm is in a
range from 4,000 to 8,000.
Even though the polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber
which is soft in touch is used for obtaining the ground
structure, if the knit density is too high in the
finished fabric, the resultant knit fabric has a hard
touch and also the basis weight or the thickness thereof
becomes larger because of a stretchability inherent to
the material. As the knit density becomes lower, the
resultant fabric is softer in touch, smaller in thickness
and lighter in basis of weight. However, the lower the
knit density, the smaller the constraint to the
elastomeric fiber by the polytrimethylene fiber, whereby
the generation of grinning in the knit fabric becomes
conspicuous. To obtain a stretchable raschel-type warp
knit fabric soft in touch and free from grinning, it is
indispensable to select the number of courses and the
product of the numbers of courses and wales in the above-mentioned
range.
If a fabric density in the warp direction is less
than 100 courses/2.54 cm, the surface appearance of the
raschel-type warp knit fabric becomes worse, and a burst
strength thereof is extremely lowered. Contrarily, while
the surface appearance and the burst strength are
improved if the fabric density in the warp direction is
more than 200 courses/2.54 cm, the touch becomes hard
because the basis of weight and the thickness of the
fabric are too large.
While the fabric density in the warp direction is an
important factor in the stretchable raschel-type warp
knit fabric of the present invention as described above,
a total fabric density; i.e., a product of the number of
courses/ 2.54 cm and the number of wales/ 2.54 cm
(hereinafter referred to a "product density"); is another
important factor. It is necessary that the product
density is in a range from 4,000 to 8,000, preferably
from 4,500 to 7,000, more preferably from 5,000 to 6,500.
If the product density is less than 4,000, the touch
becomes soft. However, the surface appearance becomes
worse and grinning is liable to occur due to the
loosening of knit structure. In addition, the burst
strength lowers to an extreme extent. On the other hand,
if the product density exceeds 8,000, the knit fabric has
a satisfactory burst strength and is free from the
generation of grinning. However, such a fabric is
unsuitable for foundation wear use because the touch
thereof is hard.
Accordingly, it is necessary to prepare a grey knit
fabric so that the above-mentioned ranges of the number
of courses and the product of the numbers of courses and
wales are obtained in the finished stretchable raschel-type
warp knit fabric while taking the fabric shrinkage,
or other factors, into account.
Although there are no limitations in the kind and
the needle gauge of the raschel machine for preparing the
stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric, a single
raschel machine having a needle gauge in a range from 48
to 64 needles/5.08 cm (from 24 to 32 needles/2.54 cm) is
preferably used.
To obtain a grey fabric favorably used for the
present invention, it is necessary to knit the same while
increasing a runner length of yarns to more than in a
mixed fiber knit fabric composed of nylon fiber or
polyethylene terephthalate fiber and elastomeric fiber
and decreasing the number of courses on the machine. The
runner length of the trimethylene terephthalate fiber and
the elastomeric fiber and the number of courses on the
machine should be selected so that the predetermined knit
density is achieved in the final fabric obtained by
scouring the grey fabric, presetting it under tension in
the width direction before dyeing to have substantially
the same width and length as those of the dyed fabric,
and dyeing and finishing it. The setting may be carried
out under known condition such as at a temperature in a
range from 150 to 200°C for a time in a range from 30 to
60 seconds. The presetting process is preferably carried
out at approximately 190°C, and the final setting process
is preferably carried out at approximately 170°C, so that
the setting and the color fastness are improved. In this
regard, a liquid stream type dyeing machine is preferably
used for carrying out the dyeing of the stretchable
raschel-type warp knit fabric because of the increased
breaking or mellowing effect applied to the latter.
The explanation will be made of a knit fabric of a
six-course satin net structure. First, the number of
courses on the machine is set at a lower level,
preferably in a range from 65 to 85 courses/2.54 cm, and
a grey fabric is knitted under a proper knitting tension.
More specifically, the grey fabric is preferably knitted
by combining a runner length of a front yarn in a range
from 1,250 to 1,350 mm/rack (1 rack: a yarn length
necessary for knitting 480 courses) with a runner length
of a back yarn in a range from 120 to 165 mm/rack and by
adjusting a product of the runner lengths of front and
back yarns in a range from 150,000 to 215,000. According
to the grey fabric thus obtained, the fabric density is
easily adjustable when the fabric is finished. If the
product of the runner lengths of front and back yarns is
selected to be 150,000 or less, the course density or the
fabric density is liable to increase whereby the finished
fabric has a harder touch or a smaller elongation.
Contrarily, if the product is 215,000 or more, the
knitting tension becomes excessively low whereby the
fabric structure becomes unstable even in the grey fabric
to cause grinning in the finished fabric. Then, in the
dyeing and finishing process, the grey fabric is widened
in the presetting step after the scouring so that the
product density is, for example, in a range from 3,500 to
6,000. Finally, the fabric is dyed and finished so that
the length and the width are kept unchanged between
before and after the dyeing (i.e., the number of courses
and the number of wales are kept unchanged). The knit
fabric of such a design has the predetermined knit
density and is free from problems in fabric shrinkage
such as laundering shrinkage and pressing shrinkage. The
setting step is carried out at a temperature in a range
from 150 to 200°C, preferably at 190°C when preset and at
170°C when finally set, to result in the warp knit fabric
being easily settable and free from drawbacks in color
fastness.
The polytrimethylene terephthalate forming the
polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber used for the
stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric according to
the present invention is synthesized by combining
terephthalic acid or functional derivative thereof and
trimethylene glycol or functional derivative thereof in
the presence of a catalyst and under suitable reactive
conditions. During this synthesizing process, one kind or
more of suitable third components are added to obtain a
copolymerized polyester. Otherwise, after a polyester
other than polytrimethylene terephthalate, such as
polyethylene terephthalate or nylon, has been synthesized
separately from polytrimethylene terephthalate, they are
blended with each other or compositely spun (to obtain a
sheath-core type yarn or a side-by-side type yarn).
The third component to be added when the
polytrimethylene terephthalate is synthesized includes an
aliphatic dicarbonic acid (oxalic acid, adipic acid or
the like), a cycloaliphatic dicarbonic acid (cyclohexane
dicarbonic acid or the like), an aromatic dicarbonic acid
(isophthalic acid, sodium sulfoisophthalic acid or the
like), an aliphatic glycol, (ethylene glycol,
tetramethylene glycol, 1, 2-propylene glycol,
tetramethylene glycol or the like), a cycloaliphatic
glycol (cyclohexane dimethanol or the like), an aliphatic
glycol containing aromatic group (1, 4-bis(β-hydoxyethoxy)
benzene or the like), a polyether glycol
(polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol or the like),
an aliphatic oxycarbonic acid (ω-oxycapronic acid or the
like) or an aromatic oxycarbonic acid (P-oxybenzoic acid
or the like). Also, compounds having one or three or more
ester-forming functional groups (benzoic acid, glycerin
or the like) may be used provided the polymer is
maintained substantially in a linear range.
The polytrimethylene terephthalate may contain, by
adding during the spinning, a delustering agent such as
titanium dioxide, a stabilizing agent such as phosphoric
acid, an ultraviolet absorbing agent such as derivative
of hydroxybenzophenone, a crystal neucleator, such as
talc, a lubricant such as aerozil, an antioxidant such as
derivative of hindered phenol, a flame retardant, an
antistatic agent, a pigment, a fluorescent whitener, an
infrared absorbing agent, and an antifoaming agent.
The present invention will be described in more
detail below with reference to the preferred embodiments,
but should not be limited thereto.
The preparation of polytrimethylene terephthalate
fiber used in examples, a method for measuring a fineness
of elastomeric fiber and the estimation of a raschel-type
warp knit fabric are carried out as described below:
Polytrimethylene terephthalate of ηsp/c = 0.8 is
spun at a spinning temperature of 265°C and at a spinning
speed of 1,200 m/min to become an undrawn yarn. Then, the
undrawn yarn is drawn at a hot roll temperature of 60°C,
a hot plate temperature of 140°C, a draw ratio of three
times and a drawing speed of 800 m/min to become drawn
yarns of 40 dtex/24f, 56 dtex/36f, 84 dtex/48f or other
sizes. For example, a strength, an elongation, an initial
tensile resistance (Young's modulus) and an elastic
recovery at 10% elongation are 2.8 cN/dtex, 46%, 27
cN/dtex and 98%, respectively.
The elastic recovery at 10% elongation of the
polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber is measured in such
a manner that the fiber is attached to a tensile tester,
so that a grip length is 10 cm, and is stretched by 10%
at a speed of 20 cm/min, and is left as it is for 1
minute. Thereafter, the fiber is made to shrink at the
same speed as before so that a stress-strain curve is
obtained. An elongation (A: a residual elongation) is
obtained on the curve at a point where the stress becomes
zero and the elastic recovery is calculated by the
following equation:
Elastic recovery at 10% elongation = (10 - A) / 100 (%)
The viscosity ηsp/c of polytrimethylene
terephthalate polymer is measured in such a manner that
the polymer is dissolved in o-chlorophenol at a
concentration of 1 g/dl, and the solution thus obtained
is transferred to an Ostwald viscometer and measured at
35°C. The viscosity is determined by the following
equation
ηsp/c = (T/To - 1) / C
wherein T is a time required for dropping the sample
solution (seconds), To is a time required for dropping
the solvent, and C is a concentration of solution (g/dl).
The fineness of the elastomeric fiber is measured as
follows:
The elastomeric fiber is relaxed under a condition
at 20°C and 65% RH while being stationarily placed on a
desk, with no load, in a tensionless state. Thereafter,
samples of 1,000 mm long are prepared therefrom, and ten
of them are weighed together. The measured value is
converted to a weight of the fiber of 10,000 m long; that
is, a dtex value.
A degree of softness is evaluated in accordance with
a JIS-L-1096 Method A for the measurement of hardness and
softness (a 45-degree cantilever method), except for
changing a size of a test piece to 25 mm X 150 mm.
The degree of softness is calculated by equation
(2). If the value thus obtained is less than 125 mm, it
is determined that the sample has a soft touch, while if
the value is 125 mm or more, it is determined that the
sample has a hard touch.
Degree of softness = moving length of normally
placed warp-directional test piece + moving length of
reversely placed warp-directional test piece + moving
length of normally placed transverse-directional test
piece + moving length of reversely placed transverse-directional
test piece--- (2)
Two pieces of the stretchable raschel-type warp knit
fabric of a 100 mm X 90 mm size in the warp direction and
the transverse direction, respectively, are cut from the
original fabric. Each of the pieces is folded so that the
length thereof is half in the warp direction and opposite
edges thereof, superposed to each other, are sewn
together by means of a two-needle type overlock sewing
machine with a margin to seam of 7 mm. The sewing thread
used is a wooly nylon of 235 dtex, the sewing pitch is 13
stitches/2.54 cm, and the needle used is of a ball point
type #11. A test piece thus obtained is sufficiently
immersed into an aqueous solution of weak alkaline
synthetic detergent, and then fixed to an elongation
fatigue tester (available from Takemoto Systems;
Dematcher tester) so that the seam is located at a center
at a grip length of 70 mm. The test piece is stretched
and relaxed at a predetermined stroke (described later)
and a speed of 200 cycles/min so that the elongation and
relaxation are repeated 10,000 for cycles. After being
removed from the tester, the test piece is observed for
the surface and profile appearance, the disturbance of
fabric structure and breakage of elastomeric fiber. The
determination is made on the basis of the following
criteria:
when tested by the elongation fatigue tester, an
amount of elongation of test piece is measured in the
following manner:
A test piece, 200 mm long in the warp direction and
25.4 mm long in the transverse direction, is prepared
from the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric, and
is attached to a Tensilon tensile tester. A tensile test
is carried out at an initial load of 4.9 cN, a grip
length of 100 mm and a stretching speed of 300 mm/min,
and elongations at loads of 9.8 N and 14.7 N are
measured, from which the amount of elongation is
determined by the following equation (3):
Amount of elongation (%) = [(elongation at 9.8 N
load) + (elongation at 14.7 N load)] / 2
The yellowing is measured in accordance with a JIS-L-0855
method for color fastness to nitric oxide gas; a
weak test.
A test piece, 25.4 mm long in the warp direction and
200 mm long in the transverse direction, is prepared from
the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric, and
stretched by a Tensilon tensile tester under the
condition of an initial load of 4.9 cN, a grip length of
100 mm and a stretching speed of 300 mm/min until the
load reaches 14.7 N, at which elongation is measured.
A mold of 60 mm diameter and 75 mm height is applied
under pressure onto the stretchable raschel-type warp
knit fabric by means of a draw mold machine (available
from Daido Company) to cause the plastic deformation in
the knit fabric. The molded state of the deformed knit
fabric is estimated in accordance with the following
criteria. In this regard, the mold having a constant
temperature of 180°C is pressed onto the test piece
having a size of 30 cm X 30 cm for 30 seconds so that a
molding depth of 20 mm is obtained.
A six-course satin net was knit from
polytrimethylene fiber of 56 dtex/36f used as a warp yarn
for a front thread guide and polyurethane type
elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.;
a trade name: Loica) of 310 dtex used as a warp yarn for
a back thread guide while drafted at a ratio of 80%,
under the following condition:
back 00/44/22/66/22/44
As is apparent from Table 1, the finished
stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric has a basis of
weight of 206 g/m2 and a thickness of 0.53 mm, is free
from yellowing and is soft in touch as well as being free
from grinning. Further, this fabric is excellent in
transverse elongation and the heat-moldability, in
comparison with the conventional product and, therefore,
most suitable for foundation wear use.
The same grey fabric as prepared in Example 1 was
preset to have different fabric densities and was
finished in accordance therewith. Test pieces were
prepared and tested. The results are shown in Table 1.
As is apparent from Table 1, the stretchable
raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present
invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as
well as being free from grinning. Further, this fabric is
excellent in transverse elongation and the heat-moldability
in comparison with the conventional product
and, therefore, most suitable for foundation wear use.
Test pieces were prepared in the same manner as in
Example 1 except for changing the runner length to
various sizes. The estimated results are shown in Table
1.
As apparent from Table 1, the stretchable raschel-type
warp knit fabric according to the present invention
is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as well as
being free from grinning. Further this fabric is
excellent in transverse elongation and heat-moldability
in comparison with the conventional product, and
therefore most suitable for foundation wear use.
Test pieces were prepared in the same manner as in
Example 1 except for changing the polyurethane type
elastomeric fiber used as a back warp yarn to a covering
yarn (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.; prepared by
single-covering Loica of 230 dtex with cotton of 74
dtex). The evaluation results were shown in Table 1.
As is apparent from Table 1, the stretchable
raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present
invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as
well as being free from grinning. Further this fabric is
excellent in the transverse elongation and the heat-moldability
in comparison with the conventional product,
and therefore most suitable for foundation wear use.
A six-course satin net was knitted from
polytrimethylene fiber of 56 dtex/36f used as a warp yarn
for a front thread guide and polyurethane type
elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.;
a trade name: Loica) of 310 dtex used as a warp yarn for
a back thread guide while drafted at a ratio of 80%,
under the following condition:
back 00/44/22/66/22/44
As apparent from Table 1, the stretchable raschel-type
warp knit fabric according to the present invention
is free from yellowing and soft in touch as well as free
from grinning. Further this fabric is excellent in the
transverse elongation and the heat-moldability in
comparison with the conventional product, and therefore
most suitable for foundation wear use.
A six-course satin net was knitted from
polytrimethylene fiber of 40 dtex/24f used as a warp yarn
for a front thread guide and polyurethane type
elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.;
a trade name: Loica) of 310 dtex used as a warp yarn for
a back thread guide while drafted at a ratio of 80%,
under the following conditions:
back 00/44/22/66/22/44
As is apparent from Table 1, the stretchable
raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present
invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as
well as being free from grinning. Further, this fabric is
excellent in the transverse elongation and the heat-moldability
in comparison with the conventional product
and, therefore most suitable for foundation wear use.
A six-course satin net was knitted from
polytrimethylene fiber of 84 dtex/48f used as a warp yarn
for a front thread guide and polyurethane type
elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.;
a trade name: Loica) of 310 dtex used as a warp yarn for
a back thread guide while drafted at a ratio of 80%,
under the following conditions:
back 00/44/22/66/22/44
As is apparent from Table 1, the stretchable
raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present
invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as
well as being free from grinning. Further this fabric is
excellent in transverse elongation and heat-moldability
in comparison with the conventional product, and
therefore is most suitable for foundation wear use.
A power net was knit from polytrimethylene fiber of
56 dtex/36f used as a warp yarn for front thread guides
Nos. 1 and 2 and polyurethane type elastomeric fiber
(available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.; a trade name:
Loica) of 78 dtex used as a warp yarn for back thread
guides Nos. 1 and 2 while drafted at a ratio of 80%,
under the following conditions:
front No. 2; 46/42/24/20/24/42 (1 in 1 out)
back No. 1; 22/00 (1 in 1 out)
back No. 2; 00/22 (1 in 1 out)
As is apparent from Table 1, the stretchable
raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present
invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as
well as being free from grinning, and therefore is most
suitable for foundation wear use.
A triconet was knitted from polytrimethylene fiber
of 56 dtex/36f used as a warp yarn for a front thread
guide No. 1, that of 40 dtex/24f used as a warp yarn for
a front thread guide No. 2 and polyurethane type
elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.;
a trade name: Loica) of 78 dtex used as a warp yarn for a
back thread guide while drafted at a ratio of 80%, under
the following conditions:
front No. 2; 22/24/22/20 (all in)
back ; 22/44/22/00 (all in)
As is apparent from Table 1, the stretchable
raschel-type warp knit fabric according to the present
invention is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as
well as being free from grinning, and therefore is most
suitable for foundation wear use.
A knit fabric of a combination of a two-thread guide
elastomeric fiber structure and a net was knitted from
polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber of 56 dtex/36f used
as a warp yarn of a front thread guide and polyurethane
type elastomeric fiber (available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo
K.K.; a trade name: Loica) of 155 dtex and 44 dtex used
as a warp yarn of back thread guides Nos. 1 and 2,
respectively, while drafted at a ratio of 80%, under the
following condition:
back No. 1; 00/22 (all in)
back No. 2; 44/66/00/22/00/66 (all in)
As apparent from Table 1, the stretchable raschel-type
warp knit fabric according to the present invention
is free from yellowing and is soft in touch as well as
being free from grinning, and therefore is most suitable
for foundation wear use.
The same grey fabric as prepared in Example 1 was
preset to have different fabric densities and finished in
accordance therewith, from which test pieces were
prepared. The results of evaluation are shown in Table 2.
As apparent from Table 2, the stretchable raschel-type
warp knit fabric obtained from the above Comparative
examples is free from yellowing but unsatisfactory in
view of either softness or grinning, and therefore is
unsuitable for foundation wear use.
A stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric was
prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that
polyamide 6 fiber of 56 dtex/36f is used as a warp yarn
for a front thread guide. The evaluation results are
shown in Table 2. As is apparent from Table 2, the
stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric obtained from
the above Comparative example is unsatisfactory due to
the generation of yellowing and grinning, and therefore
is unsuitable for foundation wear use.
A six-course satin net was knitted from polyamide 6
fiber of 56 dtex/36f used as a warp yarn for a front
thread guide and polyurethane type elastomeric fiber
(available from Asahi Kasei Kogyo K.K.; a trade name:
Loica) of 310 dtex used as a warp yarn for a back thread
guide while drafted at a ratio of 80%, under the
following conditions:
back 00/44/22/66/22/44
A knit fabric was prepared in the same manner as in
Example 1, except that polyethylene terephthalate fiber
of 56 dtex/36f is used as a warp yarn for a front thread
guide. The evaluation results are shown in Table 2, from
which it is apparent that this knit fabric is soft in
touch and free from the yellowing, but unsuitable for an
inner wear use due to the generation of grinning.
A knit fabric was prepared in the same manner as in
Comparative example 5, except that polyethylene
terephthalate fiber of 56 dtex/36f is used as a warp yarn
for a front thread guide. The results evaluation are
shown in Table 2, from which it is apparent that this
knit fabric is free from the yellowing and grinning, but
unsuitable for an underwear use because the touch thereof
becomes hard.
Knit fabrics were prepared in the same manner as in
Example 1, except for changing the runner length. The
results evaluation are shown in Table 2, from which it is
apparent that these knit fabrics are free from yellowing
but are unsuitable for underwear use because of the
deterioration of touch and the generation of grinning.
Knit fabrics were prepared in the same manner as in
Example 12 except for the fabric density at presetting or
the runner length. The evaluation results are shown in
Tables 2 and 3, from which it is apparent that these knit
fabrics are free from yellowing but are unsuitable for
underwear use because of the deterioration of touch and
the generation of grinning.
Knit fabrics were prepared in the same manner as in
Example 13 except for changing the runner length. The
evaluation results are shown in Table 3, from which it is
apparent that these knit fabrics are free from yellowing
but are unsuitable for underwear use because of the
deterioration of touch and the generation of grinning.
Knit fabrics were prepared in the same manner as in
Example 14 except for changing the runner length. The
estimated results are shown in Table 3, from which it is
apparent that these knit fabrics are free from yellowing
but are unsuitable for underwear use, sport wear use or
outer wear use because of the deterioration of touch and
the generation of grinning defect.
The stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric
according to the present invention is free from
yellowing, is soft in touch as well as being free from
generation of grinning, and has a unique surface feel,
not obtainable from a knit fabric including nylon fiber.
Since the stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric
according to the present invention is excellent in heat-moldability,
it is suitably used for underwear such as
foundation wear, sports wear, such as a swim suits, or
outer wear.
Claims (3)
- A stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric formed of a ground structure of polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber combined with elastomeric fiber laid in, wherein the knit fabric has the number of courses in a range from 100 to 200 courses per 2.54 cm, and a product of the number of courses and the number of wales per 2.54 cm is in a range from 4,000 to 8,000.
- A stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric as defined by claim 1, wherein the knit fabric is of a satin net structure.
- A stretchable raschel-type warp knit fabric as defined by claim 1 or 2, wherein the elastomeric fiber is of a polyurethane type.
Applications Claiming Priority (5)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| JP32535698 | 1998-11-16 | ||
| JP32535698 | 1998-11-16 | ||
| JP7894199 | 1999-03-24 | ||
| JP7894199 | 1999-03-24 | ||
| PCT/JP1999/006400 WO2000029654A1 (en) | 1998-11-16 | 1999-11-16 | Stretchable raschel warp knit fabric |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP1167603A1 true EP1167603A1 (en) | 2002-01-02 |
| EP1167603A4 EP1167603A4 (en) | 2002-02-27 |
Family
ID=26419989
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP99972271A Withdrawn EP1167603A4 (en) | 1998-11-16 | 1999-11-16 | Stretchable raschel warp knit fabric |
Country Status (6)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP1167603A4 (en) |
| JP (1) | JP3195598B2 (en) |
| KR (1) | KR100401900B1 (en) |
| CN (1) | CN1326520A (en) |
| AU (1) | AU1181600A (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2000029654A1 (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2003042448A3 (en) * | 2001-11-13 | 2004-04-15 | Du Pont | Heat-setting method |
Families Citing this family (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| KR20020001924A (en) * | 2000-06-08 | 2002-01-09 | 조 정 래 | Manufacture of polyester warp knitted fabric |
| US20190242039A1 (en) * | 2016-08-31 | 2019-08-08 | Toray Industries, Inc. | Shell fabric with motion followability |
Family Cites Families (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US5137601A (en) * | 1991-06-26 | 1992-08-11 | Wangner Systems Corporation | Paper forming fabric for use with a papermaking machine made of PPT fibers |
| JP2624409B2 (en) * | 1991-09-06 | 1997-06-25 | 帝人株式会社 | Elastic yarn |
| JPH0978373A (en) * | 1995-09-07 | 1997-03-25 | Nippon Ester Co Ltd | Polyester-based false twist crimped textured yarn |
| JPH09296344A (en) * | 1996-04-26 | 1997-11-18 | Du Pont Toray Co Ltd | Highly stretchable warp knitted fabric and method for producing the same |
| TW340886B (en) * | 1996-09-27 | 1998-09-21 | Kuraray Co | A fabric for plant life and method for raising plants by using thereof |
-
1999
- 1999-11-16 KR KR10-2001-7006135A patent/KR100401900B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1999-11-16 WO PCT/JP1999/006400 patent/WO2000029654A1/en not_active Ceased
- 1999-11-16 CN CN99813351A patent/CN1326520A/en active Pending
- 1999-11-16 JP JP2000582629A patent/JP3195598B2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1999-11-16 AU AU11816/00A patent/AU1181600A/en not_active Abandoned
- 1999-11-16 EP EP99972271A patent/EP1167603A4/en not_active Withdrawn
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2003042448A3 (en) * | 2001-11-13 | 2004-04-15 | Du Pont | Heat-setting method |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| KR100401900B1 (en) | 2003-10-17 |
| AU1181600A (en) | 2000-06-05 |
| JP3195598B2 (en) | 2001-08-06 |
| WO2000029654A1 (en) | 2000-05-25 |
| EP1167603A4 (en) | 2002-02-27 |
| KR20010101014A (en) | 2001-11-14 |
| CN1326520A (en) | 2001-12-12 |
Similar Documents
| Publication | Publication Date | Title |
|---|---|---|
| AU2002315778B9 (en) | Warp knitted fabric | |
| CN100429338C (en) | Polylactic acid fibers, bobbins and fiber products | |
| EP2949799B1 (en) | Warp knitted fabric comprising polytrimethylene terephthalate and use thereof | |
| US6708529B2 (en) | Undergarment | |
| JP3231306B2 (en) | Two-way warp knitted fabric | |
| KR20100019513A (en) | Knit fabrics and socks made therefrom incorporating high tensile nylon staple | |
| JPWO2000029653A1 (en) | Two-way warp knit fabric | |
| US6959565B2 (en) | Circularly knitted fabric for fashioning clothes | |
| EP1188852B1 (en) | Machine sewing thread | |
| JPWO2000073553A1 (en) | sewing thread | |
| JP2005105420A (en) | Sportswear | |
| JP2003213578A (en) | Yarn dyed yarn | |
| EP1167603A1 (en) | Stretchable raschel warp knit fabric | |
| JP7298190B2 (en) | False twist composite textured yarn and knitted fabric | |
| JP2000045155A (en) | Knitted fabric | |
| JPWO2000029654A1 (en) | Elastic Russell warp knit fabric | |
| JP2001279562A (en) | Knitting fabric | |
| JP2002054058A (en) | Russell lace | |
| JP2004176203A (en) | Printed cloth | |
| KR20250109777A (en) | Letters and Textile Products | |
| JPH11256457A (en) | Base fabric for embroidery lace | |
| JP2002013052A (en) | Elastic warp knitted fabric | |
| JP2002013048A (en) | Mixed supplies |
Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| PUAI | Public reference made under article 153(3) epc to a published international application that has entered the european phase |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: 0009012 |
|
| 17P | Request for examination filed |
Effective date: 20010512 |
|
| AK | Designated contracting states |
Kind code of ref document: A1 Designated state(s): AT BE CH CY DE DK ES FI FR GB GR IE IT LI LU MC NL PT SE |
|
| AX | Request for extension of the european patent |
Free format text: AL;LT;LV;MK;RO;SI |
|
| A4 | Supplementary search report drawn up and despatched |
Effective date: 20020110 |
|
| AK | Designated contracting states |
Kind code of ref document: A4 Designated state(s): AT BE CH CY DE DK ES FI FR GB GR IE IT LI LU MC NL PT SE |
|
| D18D | Application deemed to be withdrawn (deleted) | ||
| GRAP | Despatch of communication of intention to grant a patent |
Free format text: ORIGINAL CODE: EPIDOSNIGR1 |
|
| STAA | Information on the status of an ep patent application or granted ep patent |
Free format text: STATUS: THE APPLICATION IS DEEMED TO BE WITHDRAWN |
|
| R18D | Application deemed to be withdrawn (corrected) |
Effective date: 20031205 |