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EP1069225B1 - Machine utilisée pour coudre le dessus d'une chaussure à la semelle - Google Patents

Machine utilisée pour coudre le dessus d'une chaussure à la semelle Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1069225B1
EP1069225B1 EP00114160A EP00114160A EP1069225B1 EP 1069225 B1 EP1069225 B1 EP 1069225B1 EP 00114160 A EP00114160 A EP 00114160A EP 00114160 A EP00114160 A EP 00114160A EP 1069225 B1 EP1069225 B1 EP 1069225B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
insole
machine
edge
guide
needle
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP00114160A
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German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP1069225A2 (fr
EP1069225A3 (fr
Inventor
Mario Ciucani
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Individual
Original Assignee
Individual
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of EP1069225A2 publication Critical patent/EP1069225A2/fr
Publication of EP1069225A3 publication Critical patent/EP1069225A3/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1069225B1 publication Critical patent/EP1069225B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B15/00—Machines for sewing leather goods
    • D05B15/02—Shoe sewing machines
    • D05B15/025—Shoe sewing machines for sewing moccasin-type seams

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to machines for stitching footwear.
  • the upper is open and firmly joined to a related insole made of a semi-rigid material, so as to obtain a unit, which is then joined with a sole made of leather, gum or the like.
  • Figures 1 and 1a show the IDEAL method, according to which the insole 1 is joined, by a peripheral seam 2, to the edge 3a of an upper 3, so that the border of the edge 3a is flush with the insole 1 along the whole outline of the latter.
  • Figures 2 and 2a show the first step of the S. CRISPINO method, according to which the insole 1 is joined to the edge 3a of the upper by means of a peripheral seam 2.
  • the border of the edge 3a protrudes from the outline of the insole 1 by a predetermined value, which is maintained more or less constant along the whole periphery.
  • edge 3a is folded and glued to the lower surface of the insole 1, so as to cover the seam line 2.
  • the traditional way of joining the upper and the insole according to the above described methods includes a pre-assembling operation, which is carried out before the stitching and during which the upper edge is glued to the insole in the joining area.
  • the pre-assembling operation requires the use of some lasts, includes several subsequent steps and necessitates machines prepared for this specific purpose, and is performed in the following order:
  • the upper-insole assembly is stitched by the machines of the type "Rapida” or “Blake”, known in the footwear field.
  • the upper is joined to the insole without using the lasts or any preliminary operations, such as edges previous gluing and pressing, but by stitching directly the edges by a special machine.
  • This special machine includes a guide, which has vertical surfaces, on which the edges being stitched are held in suitable positions and are fed, while a needle is moved in a plane crosswise to the edges.
  • the upper and the insole are equipped, along their edges, with a series of reference marks which must coincide with one another when the seam is completed, so as to verify the correct reciprocal positioning.
  • the apparatus is equipped with a wrinkling group, situated beside the guide and aimed at acting on the upper, so as to make wrinkles along its edge, thus making the longer peripheral extension of the upper match with the insole outline.
  • This method and apparatus are prepared explicitly for joining an upper to an insole obtained by the above described S. CRISPINO method.
  • the object of the present invention is to propose a machine, which uses the teachings of the above described method and can stitch an upper to an insole obtained by the IDEAL or S. CRISPINO method, by a simple substitution of some elements.
  • Another object of the present invention is to propose a machine, whose guiding means for the edges to be stitched are shaped in such a way, as to assure the stitching high quality and, at the same time, to make it easy for an operator to handle the upper and insole during the whole stitching process.
  • a further object of the present invention is to propose a machine, which can use medium and thick thread and which can perform knotted stitch.
  • the proposed machine is aimed at performing a peripheral seam 2, which joins firmly an insole 1 with an upper 3 of an open type.
  • peripheral seam 2 allows to obtain a insole-upper assembly, according to the IDEAL or S. CRISPINO methods, described in the introductory statement with reference to Figures 1, 1a and 2.
  • the seam shown in Figures 2 and 2a is the first step of S. CRISPINO method, according to which in a second step ( Figures 3 and 3a), the upper edge is folded and glued to the lower surface of the insole, so as to cover the seam line.
  • the second step is performed with known machines, which are not part of the present invention; the step is described only to complete the information about the S. CRISPINO method.
  • the proposed machine is obtained using a structure and associated means analogous to the ones described in the US Patent No. 4.848.252 granted to the Applicant.
  • the machine includes a head, which supports, among other elements, a longitudinal shaft equipped with a transversal arm 6.
  • the needle 7 is operated on a plane transversal to a longitudinal guide 10, which supports and guides the edges to be stitched.
  • the needle 7 is made oscillate between an idle position, beside the guide 10, and a stitching position, in which the needle passes through a slot made in the guide 10, so as to pierce the edges to be stitched.
  • the shaft of the needle 7 reciprocates axially by strokes of predetermined step, in step relation with oscillation of the needle.
  • the threads of the needle 7 and the crochet 8 bobbin can be of either medium or thick type.
  • the crochet 8 is situated beside the guide 10, on the side opposite to the one where the needle enters the slot, and is made translate axially, synchronously with the shaft of the needle 7.
  • a wrinkling group 60 also situated on the side where the needle 7 enters the slot, is operated to move alternately, in a direction longitudinal with respect to the guide 10 and crosswise thereto, in a suitable step relation with the guide 10 movement and with the needle 7 oscillation.
  • the wrinkling group 60 carries a small head 66, which acts on the edge to be stitched situated directly below it (shoe upper), so as to accelerate the movement thereof with respect to the other edge, thus wrinkling the edge in the stitching parts, where it is required, e.g. in the region of the shoe toe.
  • the guide 10 includes a main body 30, depending from a support 20, integral with the head of the proposed machine.
  • the lower part of the main body 30 is so shaped as to form a vertical support surface 33, situated on the side where the needle 7 enters the slot, with a slot 37, open from the side toward the head, which allows the needle 7 passage and the translation thereof together with the stitched edges.
  • Stop means 40 situated beside the support surface 33 and on the side where the needle 7 enters the slot, are fastened to the main body 30 in an adjustable position.
  • edges of the upper 3 and the insole 1 go in abutment against the stop means 40, which define also a side stop for the edge 3a of the upper 3.
  • the stop means 40 cooperate with the support surface 33, so as to guide the edges of the upper 3 and the insole 1 in the region of the needle 7 transition.
  • the stop means 40 are formed by a prong 41, removably fastened, by a screw 42, in a first seat 31 made in the main body 30.
  • the height of the prong 41 is adjustable with respect to the main body 30 by the slotted hole 43, through which the screw 42 passes and whose lower horizontal surface 44 defines a common abutment for the insole 1 and the upper 3.
  • the adjustment of the prong 41 height allows to change the distance between the borders of the edges and the seam line being realized.
  • the prong 41 is equipped also with a tooth 45, situated in the region of its end facing the edges to be stitched, while being introduced.
  • the tooth 45 extends downwards with respect to horizontal surface 44, so as to support laterally the edge 3a of the upper 3 by maintaining it close to the corresponding edge of the insole 1.
  • the stop means 40 are formed by a pair of feet 51, 52, removably fastened, by relative screws 53, 54, respectively in a first seat 31 of the main body 30 and in a second seat 32, situated beside the first one.
  • the first foot 51 forms a horizontal strip 51a, against which the upper part of the insole 1 goes in abutment.
  • the second foot 52 includes a horizontal strip 52a, which extends laterally downwards, so as to form a substantially vertical wall 52b.
  • the upper part of the upper 3 edge goes in abutment against the wall 52b and is supported laterally thereby.
  • the feet 51, 52 are adjustable in height, with respect to the main body 30, independently one from the other, by slots made in the through holes of the fastening screws, so as to obtain the desired protrusion of the edge 3a of the upper 3 with respect to the insole 1 and the desired position of the seam line, as has been already described for the prong 41.
  • a separating baffle 70 hinged to the main body 30 by a pivot 71, cooperates with the wrinkling group 60 in step relation therewith.
  • the separating baffle 70 has a semi-lunar shape and is joined, by a connecting rod 72, to an actuator 73, e.g. pneumatic, which makes the separating baffle 70 oscillate on a plane parallel to the support surface 33, between two positions, rest position "I” and working position "O", respectively.
  • an actuator 73 e.g. pneumatic
  • the separating baffle 70 is introduced between the edges of the upper and the insole in the part corresponding to the working area of the head 66 of the wrinkling group 60.
  • the separating baffle 70 is aimed at limiting the action of the head 66 to the edge 3a of the upper 3, thus avoiding undesired translation of the edge of the insole 1 that could be provoked, due to friction, by the wrinkling of the upper 3 edge.
  • the operator introduces the edges of the upper and of the insole in the respective positions, i.e. the upper arranged on the side where the needle 7 enters the slot and the insole lying on the support surface 33 of the main body 30, making sure that the edges go in abutment against respective upper stops and that the reference signs 4, 5 pre-established as the stitching beginning are aligned with the needle 7 transition point.
  • the machine is started and the operator follows the edges to be stitched introduced into the guide 10 until the peripheral seam 2 is completed.
  • the operator operates the wrinkling group 60, e.g. during the toe stitching; this operation is synchronized with the command of the actuator 73 to bring the separating baffle 70 to the working position "O".
  • the described machine can perform stitch an upper 3 to an insole 1 according to IDEAL or S. CRISPINO method, with only one operation and without using lasts or gluing.
  • the proposed machine allows to change radically the production techniques used so far, allowing to produce, with reasonable cost, shoes which were very expensive before.
  • the above described curved needle 7 can be substituted by a straight needle operated horizontally.
  • the proposed structure of the machine which can use medium and thick thread and which can perform knotted stitch, allows to obtain a upper-insole assembly, which is very strong and impermeable.
  • the obtained seam is very nice and regular, thus it can form an ornament of the shoe, leaving a large choice of the bottom type to be joined the unit upper-insole.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Claims (6)

  1. Machine utilisée pour coudre un dessus de chaussure à une première relative, ladite machine comprenant :
    un guide longitudinal (10) relié à la tête de la machine;
    une aiguille (7), qui fonctionne sur un plan transversal par rapport audit guide (10) entre une position de repos, sur un coté du guide (10) face audit dessus de chaussure (3), et une position de couture, dans laquelle l'aiguille passe d'abord à travers le bord du dessus de chaussure (3) puis à travers le bord de la première, ladite aiguille (7) étant actionnée d'un mouvement alternatif, parallèle audit guide (10) qui actionne le mouvement d'un rythme prédéterminé ;
    un crochet (8), avec une bobine de fil à coudre, situé sous ledit guide (10) du coté opposé à celui où entre l'aiguille (7) dans ledit dessus de chaussure, ledit crochet (8) agissant de façon à réaliser une couture avec l'aiguille ;
    un groupe de plissage (60) situé sous ledit guide (10) et équipé d'une tête (66), qui fonctionne selon un mouvement alternatif, en travers du guide (10), de façon à engager le bord (3a) du dessus de la chaussure (3), et longitudinalement audit guide (10), de façon à plier ledit bord (3a) du dessus de chaussure (3), ladite machine étant caractérisée en ce que ledit guide (10) comprend :
    un corps principal (30) intégral avec la tête de la machine, avec la partie inférieure dudit corps principal (30) formant une surface de support verticale (33), disposée sur un coté où l'aiguille (7) entre dans ledit dessus de chaussure, et agissant comme support contre lequel la surface inférieure de ladite première (1) arrive en butée ;
    un moyen d'arrêt (40) fixé à une position réglage audit corps principal (30) et agissant comme une butée supérieure pour ledit dessus de chaussure (3) et ladite première (1), ainsi qu'un guide latéral dudit bord (3a) du dessus de chaussure (3), ledit moyen d'arrêt (40) fonctionnant avec ladite surface de support (33) pour le guidage des bords, positionné l'un prés de l'autre, sur le point de transition de l'aiguille (7) ;
    une chicane de séparation (70), articulée avec le corps principal (30) et liée à un vérin (73) qui le fait fonctionner de façon à osciller entre deux positions, la position de repos (I) et la position de travail (O) étant définies en rythme selon le fonctionnement dudit groupe de plissage (60), avec ladite chicane de séparation (70), lorsqu'elle se trouve en ladite position de travail, introduite entre les bords dudit dessus de chaussure (3) et la première (1) dans la partie correspondant à la zone de travail de ladite tête (66).
  2. Machine, selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que ledit moyen d'arrêt (40), lorsqu'il est utilisé selon une technique, dans laquelle les extrémités des bords du dessus de chaussure et de première sont alignées, sont formées par un ardillon (41) démontable facilement, par une vis (42), dans un premier logement (31) fait dans ledit corps principal (30), ledit ardillon (41) étant réglable en hauteur et définissant, avec sa surface horizontale inférieure (44) une butée courante pour lesdits bords.
  3. Machine, selon la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que ledit ardillon (41) est équipé d'une dent (45), située à son extrémité face aux bords à coudre lors de son introduction, ladite dent (45) s'étendant vers le bas par rapport à la surface horizontale (44), de façon à supporter latéralement ledit bord (3a) du dessus de chaussure (3).
  4. Machine, selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que ledit moyen d'arrêt (40), lors de son utilisation selon une technique, dans laquelle le bord (3a) du dessus de chaussure (3) dépasse du bord de la première (1), est formé par une paire de pieds (51, 52), le premier et le deuxième, respectivement, fixés de façon amovible, à l'aide de vis relatives (53, 54), dans les premier et deuxième logements correspondants (31, 32) réalisés dans ledit corps principal (30), avec lesdits pieds (51, 52) étant réglables en hauteur de manière indépendante l'un de l'autre, et comprenant des réglettes horizontales relatives (51a, 52a), qui agissent comme butées pour la partie supérieure de la première (1) et ledit bord (3a) du dessus de chaussure (3), respectivement.
  5. Machine, selon la revendication 4, caractérisée en ce que ledit deuxième pied (52) comprend une paroi en grande partie verticale (52b), qui s'étend latéralement vers le bas de la réglette horizontale relative (52a) de façon à supporter latéralement le bord (3a) dudit dessus de chaussure (3).
  6. Machine, selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que ledit guide longitudinal (10) permet de réaliser une couture nouée avec deux fils, de type moyenne ou épaisse, réalisée respectivement par ladite aiguille (7) et ladite bobine reliée au crochet (8).
EP00114160A 1999-07-16 2000-07-12 Machine utilisée pour coudre le dessus d'une chaussure à la semelle Expired - Lifetime EP1069225B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
ITBO990399 1999-07-16
IT1999BO000399A IT1310413B1 (it) 1999-07-16 1999-07-16 Macchina per la cucitura di una tomaia ad una relativa solettasottopiede.

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1069225A2 EP1069225A2 (fr) 2001-01-17
EP1069225A3 EP1069225A3 (fr) 2002-03-20
EP1069225B1 true EP1069225B1 (fr) 2005-03-02

Family

ID=11344128

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP00114160A Expired - Lifetime EP1069225B1 (fr) 1999-07-16 2000-07-12 Machine utilisée pour coudre le dessus d'une chaussure à la semelle

Country Status (5)

Country Link
EP (1) EP1069225B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN1131904C (fr)
BR (1) BR0002734A (fr)
IT (1) IT1310413B1 (fr)
TW (1) TW509236U (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT1396131B1 (it) 2009-10-13 2012-11-16 Eredi Di Ciucani Mocassino Machinery Di Ciucani Mario Sistema per il supporto e l'orientamento di una macchina da cucire ad ago curvo.
CN117587584A (zh) * 2023-12-07 2024-02-23 上工富怡智能制造(天津)有限公司 拖鞋生产线及生产方法

Family Cites Families (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
IT1192031B (it) * 1986-05-07 1988-03-31 Ciucani Mario Macchina automatica perfez. per la cucitura di articoli vari in particolare articoli di pelle
IT1280003B1 (it) * 1995-08-01 1997-12-23 Mario Ciucani Metodo per la cucitura di articoli vari, in particolare articoli di pelle, e macchina per attuare tale metodo.
IT1295172B1 (it) * 1997-09-10 1999-05-04 Mario Ciucani Metodo e apparecchiatura per la cucitura della tomaia di calzature a un relativo sottopiede.

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN1131904C (zh) 2003-12-24
ITBO990399A1 (it) 2001-01-16
TW509236U (en) 2002-11-01
BR0002734A (pt) 2001-03-13
EP1069225A2 (fr) 2001-01-17
EP1069225A3 (fr) 2002-03-20
CN1282553A (zh) 2001-02-07
IT1310413B1 (it) 2002-02-13
ITBO990399A0 (it) 1999-07-16

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