EP0910338A1

EP0910338A1 - Cosmetic preparations based on cationic and non ionic surfactants

Info

Publication number: EP0910338A1
Application number: EP97928146A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Jörg KAHRE; Ester Prat Queralt; Norbert Boyxen; Bernhard Guckenbiehl
Original assignee: Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Current assignee: BASF Personal Care and Nutrition GmbH
Priority date: 1996-06-14
Filing date: 1997-06-04
Publication date: 1999-04-28
Also published as: WO1997047284A1; DE19623763C2; JP2000512286A; DE19623763A1

Abstract

The proposal is for novel cosmetic preparations for use in the field of hair and skin care, containing (a) esterquats and (b1) sorbitane esters, (b2) polyol poly-12-hydroxy stearates and/or (b3) glycerides and possibly (c1) alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides and/or (c2) fatty acid-N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkyl amides. The agents are distinguished by improved softness in the hair and a particularly pleasant feel to the skin.

Description

Cosmetic preparations based on cationic and nonionic surfactants

Field of the Invention

The invention relates to cosmetic preparations with improved sensory properties for use in skin and hair care, containing esterquats and selected surfactants in binary or ternary mixtures.

State of the art

Esterquats are cationic surfactants which, because of their excellent ecotoxicological properties, are becoming increasingly important both for the area of fabric softeners and for cosmetic applications. Overviews on this topic have been published, for example, by R.Puchta et al. in tens. Surf. Det., 30, 186 (1993), M.Brock in Tens. Surf. Det. 30, 394 (1993), R. Lagerman et al. in J. Am. Oil. Chem. Soc, 71, 97 (1994) and I. Shapiro et al. in Cosm.Toil. 109, 77 (1994) appeared.

In cosmetic preparations, esterquats, preferably together with fatty alcohols, are used to achieve a pleasant, soft skin and hair feeling. They can be contained in emulsions and lotions for skin care as well as in surfactants such as shampoos, shower baths, rinses, conditioners and the like for hair care. The disadvantage here, however, is that the desired soft feel of the skin and hair is perceived as dull and dry, while the consumer desires a soft, smooth feel. The object of the present invention is therefore to add ester quats in such a way that low-viscosity, storage-stable concentrates result which have the desired sensor properties and are self-emulsifying in water.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic preparations containing

(a) Esterquats and

(b1) sorbitan esters,

(b2) polyol poly-12-hydroxystearate and / or

(b3) glycerides and optionally

(d) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides and / or

(c2) Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkyl amides.

Surprisingly, it was found that the addition of substances which form component (b) significantly improve the softness of esterquats and their skin-sensory properties. A further increase in the properties can be achieved if the further component (c) is added to the mixtures of ester quats with the substances of group (b). The resulting concentrates are anhydrous, low-viscosity, stable in storage and self-emulsifying when introduced into aqueous phases.

Esterquats

The term “esterquats” is generally understood to mean quaternized fatty acid triethanol amine ester salts. These are known substances which can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. In this connection, reference is made to the international patent application WO 91 / 01295 (Henkel), according to which triethanolamine is partially esterified with fatty acids in the presence of hypophosphorous acid, air is passed through and then quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or ethylene oxide. The quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts follow the formula (I)

R ⁴

I [R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CH2) mOCH2CH2-N ⁺ -CH2CH ₂ 0- (CH2CH2θ) nR ² ] X- (I)

I.

CH ₂ CH ₂ 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _p R ³

in the R'CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² and R ³ independently of one another for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ for an alkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _q H- Group, m, n and p in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12, q for numbers from 1 to 12 and X for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate. Typical examples of ester quats that can be used in the sense of the invention are products based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, arachic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and theirs Technical blends, such as those that occur when natural fats and oils are split. Technical Ci2 / i8 coconut fatty acids and in particular partially hardened Ciβ / iβ tallow or palm fatty acids as well as elaidic acid-rich Ci6 / 18 fatty acid cuts are preferably used. The fatty acids and the triethanolamine can be used in a molar ratio of 1.1: 1 to 3: 1 to produce the quaternized esters. With regard to the application properties of the ester quats, an application ratio of 1.2: 1 to 2.2: 1, preferably 1.5: 1 to 1.9: 1 has proven to be particularly advantageous. The preferred esterquats are technical mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters with an average degree of esterification of 1.5 to 1.9 and are derived from technical C16 / "tallow or palm fatty acid (iodine number 0 to 40). From an application point of view, quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts of the formula (I) have proven to be particularly advantageous in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical having 16 to 18 carbon atoms, R ² for R ¹ CO, R ³ for hydrogen, R ⁴ for a methyl group, m , n and p is 0 and X is methyl sulfate.

In addition to the quaternized fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines of the formula (II) are also suitable as ester quats.

R ⁴

I.

[R ¹ CO- (OCH2CH ₂ ) mOCH ₂ CH2-N ⁺ -CH2CH2θ- (CH ₂ CH2θ) nR ² ] X- (II)

I Rs in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.

Finally, a further group of suitable ester quats are the quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines of the formula (III)

R ⁶ 0- (CH2CH ₂ 0) mOCR ¹ l ⁺ I

[R ⁴ -N ⁺ -CH ₂ CHCH ₂ 0- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n R ² ] X "(III)

I.

R7

in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁷ independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n in total for 0 or Numbers from 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.

With regard to the selection of the preferred fatty acids and the optimal degree of esterification, the examples given for (I) also apply to the esterquats of the formulas (II) and (III). The esterquats usually come on the market in the form of 50 to 90% strength by weight alcoholic solutions, which can be diluted with water if required.

Sorbitan esters

Sorbitan esters which form component (b1) are known nonionic surfactants which are usually obtained by esterifying sorbitan with fatty acids. Typical sorbitan esters follow the formula (IV) in which

R ⁸ CO represents an aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Formula (IV) represents a sorbitan monoester; however, the esters can also be present as sesquiesters, diesters, triesters or their technical mixtures. Typical Examples are the corresponding esters of sorbitan with lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid or oleic acid.

Polyol poly-12-hydroxystearate

The polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates which form component (b2) are known substances which are sold, for example, under the Dehymuls® PGPH brand [cf. DE-A1 44 20

516], The polyol component of the emulsifiers can be derived from substances which have at least two, preferably 3 to 12 and in particular 3 to 8 hydroxyl groups and 2 to 12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are:

• glycerin and polyglycerin;

Alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol;

• Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;

Alkyl oligoglucosides with 1 to 22, preferably 1 to 8 and in particular 1 to 4 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;

Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,

• Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;

Aminosugars such as glucamine.

Among the emulsifiers to be used according to the invention, reaction products based on polyglycerol are of particular importance because of their excellent performance properties. The use of selected polyglycerols which have the following homolog distribution has proven to be particularly advantageous (the preferred ranges are given in brackets):

Glycerin 5 to 35 (15 to 30) wt%

Diglycerols 15 to 40 (20 to 32) wt%

Triglycerols 10 to 35 (15 to 25)% by weight

Tetraglycerols 5 to 20 (8 to 15) wt%

Pentaglycerols 2 to 10 (3 to 8) wt%

Oligoglycerols ad 100% by weight Glvceride

As component (b3) are esters of glycerol with one, two or three fatty acids with 6 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Typical examples are vegetable oils, such as almond oil, or technical partial glycerides such as, for example, monoglycerides based on lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and / or oleic acid. Technical partial glycerides of fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms are preferably used.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligonucleotides

Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides which form component (d) are known nonionic surfactants which follow the formula (V)

R ⁹ 0- [G] _p (V)

in which R ^{9 represents} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G represents a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p represents numbers from 1 to 10. They can be obtained using the relevant preparative organic chemistry processes. As a representative of the extensive literature, reference is made here to the documents EP-A1 0 301 298 and WO 90/03977.

The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (V) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e. H. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides is present and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p must always be an integer in a given compound and can in particular assume the values p = 1 to 6, the value p is for a specific alkyl oligoglycoside an analytically calculated quantity, which usually represents a fractional number. Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are preferably used. From an application point of view, preference is given to alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4.

The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁹ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capro alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained from Roelen's oxosynthesis, for example in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length Cβ-C10 (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred, which are obtained as a preliminary step in the separation of technical Cβ-Ciβ-coconut fatty alcohol by distillation and contaminated with a proportion of less than 6% by weight of C ₂ alcohol can be as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical Cg / n-oxo alcohols {DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁹ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palm oleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and the technical mixtures described above, which can be obtained as well as their technical mixtures. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated Ci∑yu coconut alcohol with a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred.

Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides

Fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides which are suitable as component (c2) are nonionic surfactants which follow the formula (VI)

IR ¹ ° CO-N- [Z] (VI)

in which R ¹⁰ CO for an aliphatic acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ¹¹ for hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] for a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical with 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. With regard to the processes for their production, reference is made to US Pat. Nos. 1,985,424, 2,016,962 and 2,703,798 and international patent application WO 92/06984. An overview of this topic by H.Kelkenberg can be found in Tens.Surf.Deterg. 25, 8 (1988). The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, as represented by the formula (VII):

R "OH OH OH

I! I I

Ri ° CO-N-CH ₂ .CH-CH-CH-CH-CH ₂ OH (VII)

I.

OH

The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (VII) in which R ^{11 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ¹⁰ CO is the acyl radical of capric acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, Palmoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (VII) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or Ci∑m coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative are particularly preferred. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The preparations according to the invention can contain components (a) and (b) in a weight ratio of 10:90 to 90:10, preferably 25:75 to 75:25 and in particular 40:60 to 60:40. If ternary mixtures are used, the weight ratio between components (b) and (c) can also again be 10:90 to 90:10, preferably 25:75 to 75:25 and in particular 40:60 to 60:40.

Fatty alcohols

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic preparations contain the esterquats in admixture with fatty alcohols of the formula (VIII),

R ¹² OH (VIII) in which R ^{12 represents} a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms. The esterquats and the fatty alcohols are preferably in a weight ratio of 10:90 to 90; 10 and in particular 25: 75 to 75: 25 used. The two components can be mixed subsequently, but they are preferably prepared by quaternizing the fatty acid alkanolamine esters on which the esterquats are based in fatty alcohols as an inert solvent with dimethyl sulfate, as described, for example, in German Patent DE-C1 43 08 794 (Henkel). Corresponding mixtures are commercially available, for example, under the Dehyquart® F brand.

Industrial applicability

The preparations according to the invention can be used for the production of skin and hair treatment compositions. In the simplest case, it is sufficient to dilute the mixtures with water to an application concentration. The agents, such as, for example, creams, lotions, hair shampoos, hair lotions, bubble baths and the like, can furthermore, as further auxiliaries and additives, oil bodies, emulsifiers, superfatting agents, fats, waxes, stabilizers, consistency agents, thickeners, cation polymers, biogenic active substances , Film formers, preservatives, dyes and fragrances.

A typical preparation according to the invention has the following composition:

10 to 30, preferably 20 to 25% by weight of component (a), 1 to 40, preferably 10 to 20% by weight of component (b), 1 to 40, preferably 15 to 35% by weight of component (c) and 0 to 80, preferably 20 to 75% by weight fatty alcohols

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C ₂ o-fatty acids with linear C6-C ₂ o-fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Ci3- Carboxylic acids with linear C6-C2o fatty alcohols, esters of linear Cβ-Ciβ fatty acids with branched alcohols, especially 2-ethylhexanol, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols , Triglycerides based on C6-Cιo fatty acids, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, Guerbet carbonates, dialkyl ethers and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons. Nonionic, ampholytic and / or zwitterionic surface-active compounds which are distinguished by a lipophilic, preferably linear alkyl or alkenyl group and at least one hydrophilic group can be used as emulsifiers or co-emulsifiers. This hydrophilic group can be both an ionogenic and a nonionic group. Non-ionic emulsifiers contain as a hydrophilic group z. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group.

Preferred agents are those which contain nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups as O / W emulsifiers:

(a1) Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear ones

Fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, on fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group; (a2) Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide

Glycerin; (a3) Glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated

Fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products; (a4) alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs; (a5) adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil; (a6) polyol and especially polyglycerol esters such as e.g. Polyglycerol polyricinoleate or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes of substances are also suitable.

The adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols, glycerol mono- and diesters as well as sorbitan mono- and diesters of fatty acids or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homogeneous mixtures, whose average degree of alkoxylation corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out. Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE-PS 20 24 051 as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds that contain at least one in the molecule carry quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylamino propyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxyl -3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cβπβ-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2 / i6-acylsarcosine.

W / O emulsifiers are:

(b1) adducts of 2 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hardened castor oil;

(b2) partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated Ci2 / 22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerin, polyglycerin, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose);

(b3) trialkyl phosphates;

(b4) wool wax alcohols;

(b5) polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;

(b6) mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE-PS 11 65 574 and

(b7) polyalkylene glycols.

Substances such as polyethoxylated lanolin derivatives, lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers. Typical examples of fats are glycerides; beeswax, paraffin wax or microwaxes may be used as waxes, if appropriate in combination with hydrophilic waxes, for example cetylstearyl alcohol. Can be used as stabilizers Metal salts of fatty acids such as magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate can be used. Fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms are primarily considered as consistency agents. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, furthermore higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides as well as electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers such as e.g. Luviquat® (BASF AG, Ludwigshafen / FRG), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (LamequatΘL, Grünau GmbH), quaternized wheat polypeptides,

Polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as e.g. Amidomethicone or Dow Corning, Dow Coring Co./US, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetrimamine (Carretine®, Sandoz / CH), polyaminopolyamides such as e.g. described in FR-A 22 52 840 and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline, cationic guar gum such as e.g. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese / US, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol / US.

Biogenic active substances are understood to mean, for example, plant extracts and vitamin complexes. For example, octopirox can be used as an antidandruff agent. Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds. Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid. Suitable pearlizing agents are, for example, glycol distearic acid esters such as ethylene glycol distearate, but also fatty acid monoglycol esters. The dyes which can be used are the substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes" by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the total mixture.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40,% by weight, based on the composition.

Examples

Concentrates of the composition according to Table 1 were produced:

Table 1 Concentrates according to the invention (composition in% by weight)

5 g of the concentrates K1 to K5 were diluted with 95 g of warm water. Low viscosity emulsions were formed which proved to be stable even when stored for 4 weeks at 40 ° C.

4 g of the concentrates were mixed with 25 g of Plantaren® PS 10 (a mixture of a lauryl oligoglucoside and a fatty alcohol ether sulfate) and diluted with 69 ml of water. To adjust the viscosity, 2 g of sodium chloride were added to the solutions. The 5 shampoos according to the invention were compared with a product which 25% by weight of Plantaren® PS 10, 4% by weight

Esterquat, 2 wt .-% g of sodium chloride and ad 100 wt .-% water. All 6 shampoos were assessed by a panel consisting of 10 trained subjects. Each of the 5 products according to the invention was rated at least 20% better than the comparative product with regard to the softness of the hair.

Claims

claims

1. Cosmetic preparations containing (a) esterquats and

(b1) sorbitan esters,

(b2) Polyotpoly-12-hydroxystearate and / or

(b3) glycerides and optionally

(d) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides and / or

(c2) Fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkyl amides.

2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain ester quats of the formula (I),

R ⁴

I [R ¹ CO. (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) mOCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ -CH ₂ CH ₂ 0- (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _n R ² ] X- (I)

I CH ₂ CH ₂ 0 (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _P R ³

in which R ¹ CO for an acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² and R ³ independently of one another for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ for an alkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a (CH ₂ CH ₂ 0) _q H- Group, m, n and p in total stands for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12, q for numbers from 1 to 12 and X for halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.

3. Preparations according to claim 2, characterized in that they contain ester quats of the formula (II),

R ⁴

I [R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CH2) mOCH2CH2-N ⁺ -CH2CH2θ- (CH2CH ₂ 0) _n R ² ] X- (II)

¹ CO is an acyl group containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² is hydrogen or R ¹ C0, R ⁴ and R ⁵ atoms in the R independently of one another are alkyl groups containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n together stand for 0 or numbers of 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.

4. Preparations according to claim 3, characterized in that they contain ester quats of the formula (III),

[R ⁴ - nR ² ] X "(III)

I.

R '

in which R ^{1 is} C0 for an acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ² for hydrogen or R ¹ CO, R ⁴ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently of one another for alkyl radicals with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m and n in total for 0 or numbers from 1 to 12 and X represents halide, alkyl sulfate or alkyl phosphate.

5. Preparations according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that they contain sorbitan esters of the formula (IV) as component (b1),

in which R ⁸ CO represents an aliphatic, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

6. Preparations according to claims 1 to 5, characterized in that they contain as component (b2) polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate.

7. Preparations according to claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they contain as component (b3) technical partial glycerides based on fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

8. Preparations according to claims 1 to 7, characterized in that they contain as component (d) alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides of the formula (V),

R ⁹ 0- [G] _P (V) in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10.

9. Preparations according to claims 1 to 8, characterized in that they contain as component (c2) fatty acid-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides of the formula (VI),

I.

R ¹ ° CO-N- [Z] (VI)

in which R ¹⁰ CO for an aliphatic acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ¹¹ for hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical with 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] for a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical with 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands.

10. Preparations according to claims 1 to 9, characterized in that they contain fatty alcohols of the formula (VIII) as a further component,

R ¹² OH (VIII)

in which R ^{12 represents} a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms.