EP0897028A2 - Garniture de lingerie élastique - Google Patents
Garniture de lingerie élastique Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0897028A2 EP0897028A2 EP98308006A EP98308006A EP0897028A2 EP 0897028 A2 EP0897028 A2 EP 0897028A2 EP 98308006 A EP98308006 A EP 98308006A EP 98308006 A EP98308006 A EP 98308006A EP 0897028 A2 EP0897028 A2 EP 0897028A2
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- elastomer
- yarn
- yarns
- knitted
- warp
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
- 238000009966 trimming Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 32
- 229920001971 elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 73
- 239000000806 elastomer Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 69
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 31
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 14
- 238000003780 insertion Methods 0.000 claims description 6
- 230000037431 insertion Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000008602 contraction Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 11
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 description 5
- 238000000059 patterning Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000013461 design Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001687 destabilization Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000008030 elimination Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003379 elimination reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009998 heat setting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002035 prolonged effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009877 rendering Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009958 sewing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000035899 viability Effects 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B21/00—Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B21/14—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
- D04B21/18—Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating elastic threads
Definitions
- the invention relates to the manufacture of patterned elasticated lingerie trimmings on a warp knitting machine with weft insertion, such as a crochet knitting machine.
- Such trimmings are of use, for example, in the manufacture of lingerie, underwear and leisurewear, where they combine a decorative appearance with an important elasticated function.
- the method of warp-knitting has become an established method of creating elasticated patterned fabric.
- Warp yarns are knitted in straight wales along the length of the fabric, and a rubber or elastomeric yarn (naked or covered) is inserted using an elastomer inlay bar under tension in an 0-1-0-1-0-1 sequence.
- a weft yarn is inserted accordance with a patterning sequence across the fabric, and finally the tension in the rubber or elastomeric yarn is relaxed. This causes contraction of the fabric, and closes up the weft yarns to develop the pattern in the final fabric.
- 'elastomer' or 'elastomer yarn' is used as a generic term to include rubber or elastomeric yarns, whether naked or covered.
- All elasticated trimmings made by the above method suffer to some extent from the problem of run-back of the elastomer.
- the elastomer is introduced into the fabric under tension at the same time as the warp yarns and pattern yarns are knitted. That tension is relieved when the elasticated fabric is allowed to contract, but even so in use the elastomer will still try to return to its natural state by slipping though the "tunnel" provided by the warp threads.
- the problem is exacerbated when the elasticated fabric is sewn, if the sewing needle ruptures one or more elastomer yarns; or if the elasticated fabric is cut.
- the elastomer has a tendency to run-back within the warp threads and is encouraged to do so as the elasticated fabric is stretched and contracted in use and during washing.
- the run-back problem is amply demonstrated if one considers a pair of briefs which has an elasticated narrow fabric placed around both legs and around the waist to ensure that they fit correctly.
- the elasticated trimming is cut to size and then joined through the side seams to form the legs and waist.
- the raw ends of the elastomer yarns are held by the side seams. However, through use and washing the elasticated trimming is stretched, and the elastomer yarns begin to run-back.
- the side seam threads and warp threads are unable to hold the elastomer yarns, and in time the run-back leads to a portion of the elasticated trimming which has no elastomer in it. This is apparent to the user as a fully stretched and inelastic portion of the once fully elasticated trimming.
- the run-back therefore affects both the fit and the look of the pair of briefs.
- Another prior art elasticated narrow fabric which is of relevance is an elasticated crochet warp knitted bandage which is commercially available.
- Bandages are generally knitted at 3 to 6.5 picks per inch, as compared with upwards of 20 picks per inch for lingerie trimmings.
- Such bandages were developed with a loose-knitted look, primarily because the use of a conventional knitted construction would have led to a significant run-back problem when the bandage was cut.
- the elastomer has been knitted into the bandage at the same time as the warp threads. Weft threads are inserted into the warp, in a conventional construction, to provide the pattern.
- a typical pattern has been a simple 0-3-0-3 pattern used to form the faces of the bandage.
- the invention provides a method of knitting patterned elasticated lingerie trimming with a high resistance to elastomer run-back on a crochet warp knitting machine, comprising using the main feed bar to knit elastomer yarn as the sole warp yarn on every active needle of the knitting machine, while inserting one or more non-elastomer weft yarns as pattern yarns and varying that weft insertion to build up a desired repeating pattern.
- the method of knitting according to the invention has a further advantage, in that knitting speeds are substantially increased. That is because the elastomer bar can be eliminated, because the elastomer is fed instead through the main feed bar. Elimination of the elastomer bar permits the speed of manufacturing to be increased by up to 33%.
- the elastomer yarn used in the method of the invention may be naked or covered.
- a covered elastomer gives the most satisfactory results, but at a very high premium of additional cost. Naked elastomer will be acceptable for some specifications.
- the wrap yarn of a covered elastomer is generally a single multi-filament crimped yarn, although for optimum results the elastomer would be covered with two multi-filament crimped yarns wrapped in the S and Z directions.
- the method of the invention can be carried out on any conventional warp knitting machine with weft insertion bars, using either bearded needles or compound needles.
- the best results are provided using machines with compound needles, which permit left/right and right/left knitting with consequent improvement of the balance of the knitted fabric. Without that improved balance, the fabric did have a greater tendency to "pig-tail".
- the elastomer yarns used are preferably those with a elongation of 300% or more.
- the elastomer could typically have a yarn count of 78 up to 310 decitex, preferably 235 to 310 decitex, when naked, but covered with any of a range of conventional covering yarns, typically a single multi-filament crimped yarn.
- the yarn count of that covering yarn would typically be 44 decitex or less, with a preferred lower limit of 11 decitex.
- a patterned elasticated warp-knitted trimming knitted according to the invention is suitable for use without any further treatment, it would still be within the scope of this invention to apply a heat-setting treatment within a couple of metres of the knitting station, with the fabric as relaxed as possible. Such a heat treatment would further increase the stability of the product and reduce the possibility of pig-tailing.
- the heat set treatment does, however, reduce the elasticated trimming in length, width and strength. Typical heat set temperatures would be from 110°C to 180°C.
- pattern elasticated trimmings are in the manufacture of lingerie, underwear and leisurewear, and in the manufacture of trouser waistbands and bandages. They would typically be knitted at from 21 to 27 or even 21 to 35 picks per inch.
- the conventional knitted construction of a patterned elasticated narrow fabric comprises warp yarns 1 knitted in conventional manner on the knitting needles; a covered or naked elastomer yarn 2 inserted in a 0-1-0-1 sequence along the length of the warp yarns 1; and weft pattern yarns 3 inserted around groups of needles 4 in a desired pattern.
- Figure 1 shows the pattern yarn traversing all eight illustrated needles 4 at each course.
- Figure 7 illustrates how the knitting method of the invention permits the very substantial increase in efficiency of the crochet warp knitting machine.
- the elastomer yarn is supplied from a beam 5 and goes from the main feed bar of the machine directly to the warp needles.
- the weft yarn goes directly to the weft inlay tubes.
- the elastomer feed bars of the machine are not used and the entire elastomer bars can be removed, and that in itself produces the substantial increase in the rate of knitting.
- the patterns illustrated in Figures 3 to 6 are only the most basic repeating patterns, but that is for ease of illustration only. It will be understood that the pattern designs available in a lingerie trimming knitted according to the invention can vary from those most simple patterns to very complicated arrangements of different yarn types and different weft insertion positions.
- the resulting trimming may be parallel-sided or may have fancy edges. It may be of closed construction or lace-like.
- the patterning possibilities are infinite, and Figures 3 to 6 are intended to illustrate not those patterning possibilities but the basic structure to resist run-back.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| GB9722503 | 1997-10-25 | ||
| GBGB9722503.1A GB9722503D0 (en) | 1997-10-25 | 1997-10-25 | Elasticated fabrics |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP0897028A2 true EP0897028A2 (fr) | 1999-02-17 |
| EP0897028A3 EP0897028A3 (fr) | 1999-02-24 |
Family
ID=10821046
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP98308006A Withdrawn EP0897028A3 (fr) | 1997-10-25 | 1998-10-01 | Garniture de lingerie élastique |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0897028A3 (fr) |
| GB (1) | GB9722503D0 (fr) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US11535965B2 (en) * | 2020-09-28 | 2022-12-27 | Tianhai Lace Co., Ltd. | Multi-bar warp knitted fabric and knitting method thereof |
Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2996906A (en) * | 1960-05-31 | 1961-08-22 | Ichibe Asajiro | Warp fabric with elastic yarn knitted thereinto |
| EP0373122A1 (fr) * | 1988-11-28 | 1990-06-13 | Eurojersey S.P.A. | Procédé pour la fabrication d'une étoffe tricotée indémaillable en élastomère-polyamide |
Family Cites Families (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2706898A (en) * | 1951-01-31 | 1955-04-26 | Fairhope Fabrics Inc | Knitted elastic fabric |
| FR2239886A5 (en) * | 1973-07-30 | 1975-02-28 | Fontanille Jean Claude | Elasticated tape comprises parallel elastic yarns - introduced into courses of stitches between two weft yarn layers |
| DE2536023C2 (de) * | 1975-08-13 | 1983-06-09 | Wilhelm Langendorf Gmbh, 8641 Grossvichtach | In Längsrichtung dehnbares Band |
| FR2429854B1 (fr) * | 1978-06-27 | 1986-02-07 | Molinier Sa | Bande elastique en tout sens, notamment pour contention, et son procede de fabrication |
| DE3017951A1 (de) * | 1980-05-10 | 1981-11-19 | Krall & Roth Weberei GmbH & Co KG, 4050 Mönchengladbach | Verfahren zum herstellen eines schussraschel-gewirkes |
-
1997
- 1997-10-25 GB GBGB9722503.1A patent/GB9722503D0/en not_active Ceased
-
1998
- 1998-10-01 EP EP98308006A patent/EP0897028A3/fr not_active Withdrawn
Patent Citations (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2996906A (en) * | 1960-05-31 | 1961-08-22 | Ichibe Asajiro | Warp fabric with elastic yarn knitted thereinto |
| EP0373122A1 (fr) * | 1988-11-28 | 1990-06-13 | Eurojersey S.P.A. | Procédé pour la fabrication d'une étoffe tricotée indémaillable en élastomère-polyamide |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US11535965B2 (en) * | 2020-09-28 | 2022-12-27 | Tianhai Lace Co., Ltd. | Multi-bar warp knitted fabric and knitting method thereof |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| GB9722503D0 (en) | 1997-12-24 |
| EP0897028A3 (fr) | 1999-02-24 |
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