EP0477525A1 - Temporarily inelastic combination-embroidery yarn, method of manufacturing same and its use - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to temporarily inelastic combination- embroidery yarns based on virtually unstretched, highly elastic core filament yarns (for example based on elastanes), covered with an inner covering yarn composed of soluble yarns (for example PVA-hot water-soluble) and an outer covering yarn composed of textile threads or yarns, (for example viscose, polyamide or polyester). They are produced by covering a virtually unstretched, highly elastic core fibre, (for example elastane filament yarns) with an inner covering yarn based on a soluble covering yarn (for example hot water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol yarn) and an outer covering yarn composed of an insoluble textile covering yarn. Such a temporarily inelastic combination yarn is used as an embroidery yarn for embroidery application (decoration, pattern) on elastic backing fabrics/knitted fabrics with subsequent dissolving-out of the soluble inner covering yarn (for example PVA) with release of a certain elastic mobility of the embroidery yarn, which after this dissolving-out (for example in aqueous finishing processes) has such a stretchability that the applied embroidery can follow the elastic stretchings of the base fabric/knitted fabric.

Description

The invention relates to temporarily inelastic combination embroidery threads based on practically undrawn, highly elastic core filament threads (e.g. based on elastane), wound with an inner enveloping thread made of soluble threads (e.g. PVA hot water soluble) and an outer covering thread made of textile threads or threads (on Basis of continuous filaments or fiber yarns made of eg viscose, polyamides or polyesters).

They are made by wrapping a practically unstretched, highly elastic soul thread (e.g. elastane filament yarn) with an inner cover yarn based on a soluble cover yarn (e.g. hot water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol thread) and an outer cover thread of an insoluble textile cover yarn.

Such a temporarily inelastic combination thread is used as embroidery thread for embroidery application (ornaments / patterns) on elastic base fabrics / knitted fabrics with subsequent removal of the soluble inner sheath thread (e.g. PVA) with the release of a certain elastic mobility of the embroidery thread, which after this removal (e.g. in aqueous finishing process) has such a stretch that the embroidery applications can follow the elastic strains of the base fabric / knitted fabric.

Elastans or rubber threads are often incorporated to produce elastic textiles. In the case of knitwear, it is technically possible to process these yarns naked. In other techniques such as Weaving, their elasticity must be limited in order to process these elastic threads. For this purpose, combination yarns are made that consist of the elastic core and one or more envelope yarn components. Such combination yarns are preferably produced by placing the sheath threads in turns around the pre-stretched elastane thread. Wrapping machines with hollow spindle devices are used here. One or two-stage wrapping yarns with different properties can be produced. The elastic extensibility desired in textile fabrics is produced by keeping the elastic thread under high elongation (100 to 600% elongation) during the winding process. The elasticity is triggered by a recess or shrinking process after the fabric has been manufactured.

In order to make certain yarns particularly difficult to stretch for processing, it is described (GB 678 507 from 11.11.48, GE 822 704 from 18.10.49, FP 1 383 876 from 21.10.63, GE 1 510 696 from 30.6.64, GE 1 510 699 from July 30, 64, FP 1 403 509 from August 5, 64, US 3 492 707 from February 12, 68) to produce such combination yarns with a first soluble covering thread and a second textile covering thread.

In any case, the elastic thread core (e.g. elastane filament thread) is worked in in a highly stretched manner. After the soluble portion has been removed after the fabric has been produced, the desired elastic extensibility of the articles produced therefrom is predominantly achieved by the elastic recess process in the fabric.

Attempts have now been made to produce a combination yarn suitable for embroidery, in which a highly elastic elastane filament yarn in the stretched state is wound with a soluble first covering thread and continuously wound in a second stage with a second textile thread in the opposite direction to the first covering thread, this made it easy to tie this yarn. After removing the soluble inner wrapping, the embroidery application pulled the elastic base together in such a way that the goods became unusable.

After a large number of tests in which the winding parameters were changed beyond what is known and described, a yarn was found which fulfills all the desired properties and which, after the soluble component has been removed, is only slightly «20%) but still sufficiently stretchy In this case, extensibility is not produced by the insertion of the combination yarn in question with a pre-stretched core (soul) thread, but is based solely on the interaction of the spiral-shaped, outer winding component and the volume of the soluble thread of the inner winding that is released when it is removed. A combination thread with limited elasticity is achieved (in the embroidery application). A sufficiently good and permanent elasticity is ensured by the highly elastic soul thread (core thread) e.g. guaranteed on the basis of elastane.

• 1. Der Faden muß im Stickprozeß praktisch unelastisch sein, d.h., seine Dehnbarkeit muß hierbei vorzugsweise < 1 % sein.

(Prüfmethode zur Bestimmung der Dehnbarkeit: Längenänderungsmessung zwischen den Belastungsstufen 0,005 cN/dtex und 0,5 cN/dtex, bezogen auf den gesamten 3-Komponentenfaden. Die Prüfung erfolgt an 10 Einzelfäden mit der Einspannlänge = 50 cm.)

• 2. Eine gewisse Steifheit des Fadens soll für den Stickprozeß vorliegen.
• 3. Der Faden soll einen möglichst runden Querschnitt, glatte Oberfläche und verdrehungsfreien Charakter haben.
• 4. Der Stickfaden bzw. die Stickapplikation muß nach der Ausrüstung der bestickten Ware die notwendige Dehnbarkeit und Elastizität des elastischen Grundes voll begleiten können, ohne diesen zu behindern oder einzuschränken.
• 5. Der Stickfaden darf nach dem Stickprozeß bei der Endausrüstung des Flächengebildes die Grundware nicht zusammenziehen.
• 6. Aus modischen Gründen werden bei der Stickerei oft besondere Glanzeffekte verlangt.

The combination yarn according to the invention also fulfills the following tasks for use as an embroidery thread for elastic base fabrics: If applications are to be applied to an elastic base fabric or knitted fabric (such as, for example, bodice tulle) (e.g. embroidery patterns by embroidery), care must be taken to ensure that the application also (the embroidery design) can take part in any stretching when using the textile, elastic base fabric. On the other hand, for embroidery reasons, an embroidery thread must have the following properties and meet the following requirements:

• 1. The thread must be practically inelastic in the embroidery process, ie its extensibility must preferably be <1%.

(Test method for determining the extensibility: measurement of the change in length between the load stage fen 0.005 cN / dtex and 0.5 cN / dtex, based on the entire 3-component thread. The test is carried out on 10 individual threads with a clamping length = 50 cm.)

• 2. A certain stiffness of the thread should exist for the embroidery process.
• 3. The thread should have the roundest possible cross-section, smooth surface and a twist-free character.
• 4. After finishing the embroidered goods, the embroidery thread or embroidery application must be able to fully accompany the necessary elasticity and elasticity of the elastic base without hindering or restricting it.
• 5. The embroidery thread must not pull together the basic fabric after the embroidery process when finishing the fabric.
• 6. For fashion reasons, special gloss effects are often required for embroidery.

• Das 3-Komponentengarn hat nach seiner Herstellung eine Dehnbarkeit < 5 %, vorzugsweise < 3 %, insbesonders günstig aber < 1 %, entsprechend der Prüfvorschrift.

The properties of the yarn according to the invention are described quantitatively as follows:

• After its production, the 3-component yarn has an extensibility of <5%, preferably <3%, especially cheap but <1%, in accordance with the test specification.

When the soluble winding thread component is removed by the water, the combination thread jumps in only by the amount of its substance shrinkage (substance loss) (possibly including substance shrinkage of the other two components). This substance shrinkage should preferably be <10%, but in no case should it be> 20%.

The elastic total extensibility, starting from the test length reached by the material shrinkage to the unclamped state, can be set between 0.1 and approx. 100% depending on the number of turns of the outer and inner turns and the volume of the inner turn that has become free. However, it may be sufficient or advantageous to limit the elastic elongation to 10 to 40%, preferably 20 to 30%.

• 1. Garnsträngchen, 10 m mit 0,1 cN/dtex Vorspannung haspeln.

Diese Garnsträngchen werden danach wie folgt behandelt:

• 2. Belastung mit 0,5 cN/dtex, 30 sec., Länge messen: Lo

Belastung Pos.1-2, bezogen auf das 3-Komponentengarn.

• 3. Garnsträngchen abkochen 98°C 30 min. 1 Std. trocknen 1 Std. klimatisieren
• 4. Belastung mit 0,005 cN/dtex, 30 sec., Länge messen: L₁
• 5. Belastung mit 0,5 cN/dtex, 30 sec., Länge messen: L₂

The quantitative yarn data mentioned are determined using the following test methods: Test method: "Shrinkage and elongation measurement" on the combination yarn:

• 1. Reel 10 m of thread with 0.1 cN / dtex pretension.

These skeins of thread are then treated as follows:

• 2. Load with 0.5 cN / dtex, 30 sec., Measure length: Lo

Load item 1-2, based on the 3-component yarn.

• 3. Boil the skeins of yarn at 98 ° C for 30 min. 1 hour drying 1 hour air conditioning
• 4. Load with 0.005 cN / dtex, 30 sec., Measure length: L ₁
• 5. Load with 0.5 cN / dtex, 30 sec., Measure length: L ₂

Load Pos. 4-5, based on the 2-component yarn (elastane / outer envelope yarn).

As highly elastic core threads (core threads) (A), highly elastic threads with elastic elongations> 250%, e.g. based on segmented copolyesters, segmented copolyester ethers or preferably segmented polyurethanes or polyurethane ureas (elastanes) are used. Their titer is approximately 10 to 160 dtex, preferably 20 to 80 dtex.

Soluble filaments or yarns, preferably hot water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol threads or threads soluble in alcohols, ketones, esters or hydrocarbons made of e.g. Modacrylene or the like used. For economic reasons, water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol threads are preferred, which can be dissolved out in the aqueous finishing baths. Their titers are from about 50 to 300 dtex, preferably from about 100 to 300 dtex.

The outer, non-soluble textile sheath thread (C) are threads (including yarns) made of, for example, polyamides, polyesters, cellulose, preferably viscose and polyamides. Their titers are from 10 to 200 dtex, preferably from 50 to 200 dtex.

The combination embroidery thread according to the invention is produced as follows: (see FIG. 1).

The elastic core thread (A) is fed into the process of a crosswise (2-stage) winding with virtually no stretching. Either the thread is fed in a rolling manner (item 1) or the thread is pulled off the bobbin overhead without any additional stretching set (item 1 '). The total stretch of the elastic thread in the hollow spindle should be <10% and should only be given by the inevitable thread pull tension from the bobbin.

On the first hollow spindle, the disc reel 2 is seated with the Vonat of soluble yarn (B), which is the first sheath component to be wound in an S-turn around the elastic core. The number of turns to be applied can be from 300 to 2,000 turns / m. With the height of this number of turns, the extensibility to be achieved after removing this component can be influenced. The titer of this soluble component is said to be many times coarser than the titer of the elastic soul. The titer is preferably more than three times greater.

This winding thread of the first stage passes through a second hollow spindle with the disc bobbin 3, which carries the supply of the textile covering thread (C).

The second hollow spindle runs in Z-rotation and thus in the opposite direction to the first winding stage.

With the choice of the number of turns of the second winding stage, the combination yarn is made essentially twist-neutral and, in addition, the extensibility of the combination yarn after the soluble component has been removed is influenced even more than in the first stage. It applies here that the extensibility to be achieved increases with an increasing number of turns.

After the second winding stage, the 3-component yarn (D) is drawn off from the delivery unit 4, which determines the throughput speed of the yarn through both hollow spindles. The necessary number of turns in both stages are regulated via appropriate spindle speeds.

After delivery unit 4, the 3-component yarn is fed to take-up point 5 and wound into a finished bobbin.

If you want to achieve a particularly high-gloss combination yarn, you should preferably use a high-gloss viscose in the outer wrapping. The rotation of the disc spool 3 gives the enveloping yarn a twist which breaks the shine to a great extent. In a special embodiment according to the invention, the gloss can be largely obtained if the enveloping yarn has previously been twisted in a separate process against the direction of winding to be applied.

It is crucial here that the number of turns with the number of turns largely counteracts pick up on one side so that the filament bandage in the combination yarn is almost parallel (untwisted) and retains its full shine

The yarns according to the invention can be used for applications on elastic basic goods (elastic spout / woven goods, e.g. for corsetry). While embroidery applications made of conventional inelastic embroidery threads permanently and disruptively blocked the elastic extensibility of the base in the expansion area of the application, it is possible with the temporarily inelastic embroidery threads according to the invention to produce completely new types of embroidery goods which can also be stretched elastically in the area of the embroidery pattern. They are used in embroidery designs on elastic corsetry or elastic textiles.

Example 1 - Yarn setting 1

• Soul: Dorlastan @, dtex 33, highly elastic polyurethane elastomer thread -Elastan) pulled off overhead (without tension)
• 1st stage: PVA (Solvron @), dtex 62/3, (hot water soluble polyvinyl alcohol thread) 400 turns - p
• 2nd stage: viscose, dtex 2x84 / 1, (84/1 pre-turned with 480 - S) 480 turns -Z
• Note: The yarns used with the corresponding pre-twists and the number of turns and direction of turns to be applied can also be produced in the mirror image sense of the example above.

Example 2 - Yarn setting

• Soul: Dorlastan @, dtex 33, (elastane) without stretching (pulled off over the head)
• 1st stage: PVA (Solvron @), dtex 62/3 1000 turns / m - S
• 2nd stage: PA 66, dtex 78f17x1 HE 1737 windings / m - Z
  

Example 3 - Yarn setting (comparison test)

• Soul: As example 2, warping of the highly elastic Dorlastan filament yarn but 280% (Stretching 1: 3.8) (not according to the invention):
• 1st stage: as example 2, 900 turns / m - S
• 2nd stage: as example 2, 900 turns / m - Z
  

Example 4 - Yarn setting

• Seele : Dorlastan®, dtex 33 ohne Verstreckung (über Kopf abgezogen)
• 1. Stufe : PVA (Solvron@), dtex 111/1 480 Windungen/m - S
• 2. Stufe : Viskose, dtex 167/1 (vorgedreht 480 - S) 480 Windungen - Z
  

(Pre-twist of the viscose yarn according to the twist turns)

• Soul: Dorlastan®, dtex 33 without stretching (pulled off over the head)
• 1st stage: PVA (Solvron @), dtex 111/1 480 turns / m - S
• 2nd stage: viscose, dtex 167/1 (pre-turned 480 - S) 480 turns - Z
  

Claims (9)

1. Temporarily inelastic wrap yarn consisting of one Core thread: highly elastic thread (preferably elastane) 1. (inner) enveloping thread: inelastic, soluble thread (preferably PVA) 2. (outer) enveloping yarn: insoluble, textile thread,
characterized in that the wrapping yarn is initially inelastic and has an extensibility of <5%, preferably <3% and in particular <1%,
the highly elastic core thread is wrapped crosswise practically undrawn and that after the soluble first covering yarn has been removed, the yarn does not exceed the extent of the substance (material) shrinkage of a maximum of 20%, preferably 10%
and after the first soluble sheath thread has been removed, has an elastic extensibility of 0.1 to 100%, preferably 10 to 40%, in particular 20 to 30%. 2. Yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that the number of turns of the second (outer) textile enveloping yarn is adapted to the first inner soluble enveloping yarn so that an approximately twist-neutral total thread results. 3. Yarn according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that a high-gloss, textile yarn is used as the outer covering yarn. 4. Yarn according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that despite the inevitably applied twist the gloss of the second outer sheath yarn used is not broken and preferably this outer auxiliary yarn was pre-twisted in the opposite direction to the winding yarn production with the twist count and a winding thread in a practically parallel form of its individual filaments is present. 5. Yarn according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that a hot water-soluble thread made of polyvinyl alcohol is used as the inner covering yarn. 6. Yarn according to claims 1 to 5, characterized in that viscose, polyamide or polyester filaments or fiber yarns are used as the outer covering yarn. 7. Process for the production of the yarn according to claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the elastic soul thread is fed to the two enveloping yarns practically without stretching in the process of a crosswise (2-stage) winding. 8. A method of producing a yarn according to claim 7, characterized in that the outer covering yarn is pre-twisted in the opposite direction with the same number of turns before the processing of the combination yarn production. 9. Use of temporarily non-elastic wrapping yarns according to claims 1 to 6 as embroidery thread on elastic base fabrics or knitted fabrics, with subsequent detachment of the soluble inner covering yarn to produce an elastically stretchable embroidery application which fully accompanies the stretchability and elasticity of the elastic base fabric / knitted fabric and the elastic base fabric / Knitted fabrics do not contract.

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