EP0378053A1 - Single jersey knitwear and method for its manufacture - Google Patents
Single jersey knitwear and method for its manufacture Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0378053A1 EP0378053A1 EP89810988A EP89810988A EP0378053A1 EP 0378053 A1 EP0378053 A1 EP 0378053A1 EP 89810988 A EP89810988 A EP 89810988A EP 89810988 A EP89810988 A EP 89810988A EP 0378053 A1 EP0378053 A1 EP 0378053A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- knitted fabric
- single jersey
- yarns
- thread
- yarn
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims description 6
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims description 5
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 229920003002 synthetic resin Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 239000000057 synthetic resin Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 27
- HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Sodium hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[Na+] HEMHJVSKTPXQMS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000012670 alkaline solution Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- 238000005517 mercerization Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007423 decrease Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000002386 leaching Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000005871 repellent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
- D02G3/28—Doubled, plied, or cabled threads
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
Definitions
- the invention relates to a single jersey knitted fabric and a method for its production.
- Such knitted fabrics are widely used for the production of blouses, T-shirts, as basic printing goods or also for outerwear.
- Single jersey is only of limited use as a shirt fabric and in the manufacture of outerwear because it has less strength as a textile fabric, i.e. "Stand" has as a web. Shirts made from single jersey are therefore e.g. mostly cut tightly to avoid the impression of a loose, wrinkled "hanging" on the carrier. Single jersey is also much looser to the touch than fabric.
- cotton jersey has so far only been able to be manufactured to a limited extent and with the help of chemical additives, and is easy to care for and crease-resistant.
- the invention has for its object to avoid the disadvantages of the known, in particular to create a single jersey knit made of cotton, which is approximately the state and has a handle of a fabric that is easy to care for and does not need to be ironed without too much chemical equipment.
- this is achieved primarily in that the courses of the knitted fabric alternately consist of an S and a Z-twisted cotton thread. Especially when the cotton threads are twisted excessively and / or are threads made from excessively twisted Z or S yarns, the knitted fabric has a much firmer grip and a fabric approximated stand.
- each S-thread is made of Z-thread and each Z-thread is made of S-thread.
- the properties described are optimized through the use of twisted yarns or twists.
- Yarns with a titer of approximately Nm 80/1 to Nm 130/1 are particularly suitable for the production of shirts or women's outerwear.
- Nm 100/1 With an average titer of Nm 100/1, particularly good results can be achieved if the yarns have a twist of about 1050 to 1150 turns and the threads have a twist of about 1100 to 1250 turns.
- the number of turns expediently increases proportionally, ie by approximately 20%, while in the case of coarser yarns, such as 80/1, it decreases proportionally, ie by approximately 20%.
- the knitted fabric is optimized in the grip and in the stand when it is still leached or mercerized, i.e. is treated with sodium hydroxide solution without tension or undervoltage.
- a subsequent mercerization has proven particularly useful in the case of the knitted fabrics produced from yarns which are twisted in opposite directions and are excessively twisted.
- the creasing resistance and dirt-repellent properties can be improved even more if, in combination with the features described above, the resin is applied after leaching or mercerization.
- the single figure shows schematically the stitch pattern of a single jersey knitted circular chair 1.
- the wales St of the course rows R I consist of a twine 2, while the course rows R II consist of a twine 3.
- the two twisting systems 2, 3 each consist of two yarns with a titer of Nm 100/1.
- the yarns or threads are twisted as follows: Yarn 2: 1st system single yarn 1100 tours twist ZZ Twine 1050 turns twist S.
- Yarn 3 2nd system single yarn 1100 turns twist SS Thread 1050 turns Z turn (The two threads therefore have the same titer and are only shown in different thicknesses for the sake of illustration.)
- each course 2 of the first system with a twist of rotation S is followed by a course with yarn 3 with Z twist.
- the opposite rotation causes the mesh structure to stiffen.
- This also stiffens the individual stitches chopsticks St causes each of the yarns 2, 3 to consist of single yarns with excessive twist (ZZ or SS) which is opposite to the twist twist (S or Z).
- the knitted fabric is mercerized as a finished product, whereby it has been shown according to the invention that the mercerization not only brings about a wash-resistant sheen, but also improves grip, stability and strength in the sense of the object set according to the invention.
- the knitted fabric is also fixed in a known manner with synthetic resin after the mercerization.
- the choice of yarn or thread types and the stitch density depends on the desired elasticity of the knitted fabric. In any case, an improvement in the stand or the strength and the grip can be achieved.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
Description
Die Erfindung betrifft ein Single-Jersey-Gestrick und ein Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung. Derartige Gestricke werden vielfach zur Herstellung von Blusen, T-Shirts, als Druckgrundware oder auch bei Oberbekleidung verwendet.The invention relates to a single jersey knitted fabric and a method for its production. Such knitted fabrics are widely used for the production of blouses, T-shirts, as basic printing goods or also for outerwear.
Vor allem als Hemdenstoff und bei der Herstellung von Oberbekleidung eignet sich Single-Jersey nur bedingt, weil es als textiles Flächengebilde weniger Festigkeit, d.h. "Stand" hat, als ein Gewebe. Hemden aus Single-Jersey sind deshalb z.B. meist eng und anliegend geschnitten, um den Eindruck eines zu lockeren, faltigen "Hängens" am Träger zu vermeiden. Auch im Griff ist Single-Jersey wesentlich lockerer als Gewebe.Single jersey is only of limited use as a shirt fabric and in the manufacture of outerwear because it has less strength as a textile fabric, i.e. "Stand" has as a web. Shirts made from single jersey are therefore e.g. mostly cut tightly to avoid the impression of a loose, wrinkled "hanging" on the carrier. Single jersey is also much looser to the touch than fabric.
Dazu kommt, dass sich Baumwolljersey bisher nur bedingt und unter Einsatz chemischer Hilfsmittel pflegeleicht und knitterarm herstellen lässt.In addition, cotton jersey has so far only been able to be manufactured to a limited extent and with the help of chemical additives, and is easy to care for and crease-resistant.
Aus der DE-PS-646 720 ist es bekannt, bei Webwaren eine gewisse Dehnbarkeit dadurch zu erreichen, dass in der Kette rechts- und linksgedrehte Fäden verwendet werden. Durch eine solche Massnahme lässt sich keine Ware herstellen, die mit den Eigenschaften eines Single-Jersey vergleichbar wäre. Ausserdem ist die Elastizität von Single-Jersey von Haus aus gegeben, so dass sich die Uebertragung einer für Kettstuhl-Ware vorgeschlagenen Massnahme nicht anbietet. Gleiches gilt für die DE-PS-27 53 308, die eine weitmaschig kettengewirkte elastische Binde betrifft.From DE-PS-646 720 it is known to achieve a certain extensibility in the case of woven goods in that right and left-handed threads are used in the warp. Such a measure cannot produce goods that would be comparable to the properties of a single jersey. In addition, the elasticity of single jersey is inherent, so that the transfer of a measure proposed for warp-chair goods is not appropriate. The same applies to DE-PS-27 53 308, which relates to a wide-mesh warp knitted elastic bandage.
Der Erfindung liegt die Aufgabe zugrunde, die Nachteile des Bekannten zu vermeiden, insbesondere also ein Single-Jersey-Gestrick aus Baumwolle zu schaffen, das annähernd den Stand und Griff eines Gewebes hat, das pflegeleicht ist und ohne zu starke chemische Ausrüstung bügelarm ist. Erfindungsgemäss wird dies in erster Linie dadurch erreicht, dass die Maschenreihen des Gestricks jeweils abwechselnd aus einem S- und einem Z-gedrehten Baumwoll-Zwirn bestehen. Vor allem wenn die Baumwoll-Zwirne überstark gedreht sind und/oder aus überstark gedrehten Z- bzw. S-Garnen hergestellte Zwirne sind, erhält das Gestrick einen wesentlich festeren Griff und einen Geweben angenäherten Stand. Ganz im Gegensatz zum Effekt bei der Verwendung rechts- und linksgedrehter Fäden bei einer Kettstuhlware gemäss DE-PS-646 720 oder DE-PS-27 53 308 wird erfindungsgemäss nicht die sowieso vorhandene Dehnbarkeit des Gestricks erhöht, sondern Griff und Stand verbessert.The invention has for its object to avoid the disadvantages of the known, in particular to create a single jersey knit made of cotton, which is approximately the state and has a handle of a fabric that is easy to care for and does not need to be ironed without too much chemical equipment. According to the invention, this is achieved primarily in that the courses of the knitted fabric alternately consist of an S and a Z-twisted cotton thread. Especially when the cotton threads are twisted excessively and / or are threads made from excessively twisted Z or S yarns, the knitted fabric has a much firmer grip and a fabric approximated stand. In contrast to the effect when used on the right and left-handed threads in a warp-chair fabric according to DE-PS-646 720 or DE-PS-27 53 308 is not increased according to the invention, the elasticity of the knitted fabric, which is present anyway, but improved grip and stand.
Besonders vorteilhaft lässt sich dies erreichen, wenn jeder S-Zwirn aus Z-Garn und jeder Z-Zwirn aus S-Garn gezwirnt ist. Damit bestehen nicht nur zwischen den beiden Zwirn-Systemen, sondern auch zwischen den Garnen und dem Zwirn eines jeden Systems entgegengerichtete Torsionskräfte, die zur Griff- und Standverbesserung beitragen. Durch die Verwendung überhart gedrehter Garne bzw. Zwirne werden die geschilderten Eigenschaften optimiert.This can be achieved particularly advantageously if each S-thread is made of Z-thread and each Z-thread is made of S-thread. This means that there are not only opposing torsional forces between the two twisting systems, but also between the yarns and the twisting of each system, which help to improve the grip and stand. The properties described are optimized through the use of twisted yarns or twists.
Zur Herstellung von Hemden oder Damenoberbekleidung eignen sich besonders Garne mit einem Titer von etwa Nm 80/1 bis Nm 130/1 (d.h. 80 km/kg bzw. 130 km/kg). Bei einem mittleren Titer von Nm 100/1 lassen sich dabei besonders gute Ergebnisse erzielen, wenn die Garne eine Drehung von etwa 1050 bis 1150 Touren und die Zwirne eine Drehung von etwa 1100 bis 1250 Touren aufweisen. Bei feineren Garnen von z.B. Nm 120/1 erhöhen sich die Tourenzahlen zweckmässigerweise proportional d.h. um etwa 20% während sie sich bei gröberen Garnen, wie z.B. 80/1 proportional d.h. um etwa 20% verringern.Yarns with a titer of approximately Nm 80/1 to Nm 130/1 (ie 80 km / kg or 130 km / kg) are particularly suitable for the production of shirts or women's outerwear. With an average titer of Nm 100/1, particularly good results can be achieved if the yarns have a twist of about 1050 to 1150 turns and the threads have a twist of about 1100 to 1250 turns. In the case of finer yarns of, for example, Nm 120/1, the number of turns expediently increases proportionally, ie by approximately 20%, while in the case of coarser yarns, such as 80/1, it decreases proportionally, ie by approximately 20%.
Das Gestrick wird im Griff und im Stand optimiert, wenn es noch laugiert oder mercerisiert, d.h. mit Natronlauge ohne Spannung oder Unterspannung behandelt ist. Besonders bewährt hat sich bei den aus erfindungsgemäss gegensinnig und überstark gezwirnten Garnen hergestellten Gestricken eine nachgeschaltete Mercerisation.The knitted fabric is optimized in the grip and in the stand when it is still leached or mercerized, i.e. is treated with sodium hydroxide solution without tension or undervoltage. A subsequent mercerization has proven particularly useful in the case of the knitted fabrics produced from yarns which are twisted in opposite directions and are excessively twisted.
Obwohl die derart hergestellte Ware bereits pflegeleicht ist, lassen sich die Knitterfestigkeit und die schmutzabweisenden Eigenschaften noch verbessern, wenn in Kombination mit den vorstehend geschilderten Merkmalen noch nach der Laugierung bzw. Mercerisation eine Kunstharzausrüstung erfolgt.Although the goods produced in this way are already easy to care for, the creasing resistance and dirt-repellent properties can be improved even more if, in combination with the features described above, the resin is applied after leaching or mercerization.
Die einzige Figur zeigt schematisch das Maschenbild eines Single-Jersey Rundstuhlgestricks 1. Die Maschenstäbchen St der Maschenreihen RI bestehen aus einem Zwirn 2 während die Maschenreihen RII aus einem Zwirn 3 bestehen. Die beiden Zwirnsysteme 2, 3 bestehen jeweils aus zwei Garnen mit einem Titer von Nm 100/1. Die Garne bzw. Zwirne sind wie folgt gedreht:
Garn 2: 1. System Einfach-Garn 1100 Touren Drehung ZZ
Zwirn 1050 Touren Drehung S
Garn 3: 2. System Einfach-Garn 1100 Touren Drehung SS
Zwirn 1050 Touren Drehung Z
(Die beiden Zwirne weisen also den gleichen Titer auf und sind nur aus Gründen der Darstellung unterschiedlich dick gezeichnet.)The single figure shows schematically the stitch pattern of a single jersey knitted circular chair 1. The wales St of the course rows R I consist of a
Yarn 2: 1st system single yarn 1100 tours twist ZZ
Twine 1050 turns twist S.
Yarn 3: 2nd system single yarn 1100 turns twist SS
Thread 1050 turns Z turn
(The two threads therefore have the same titer and are only shown in different thicknesses for the sake of illustration.)
Wie aus der Darstellung ersichtlich wird, folgt auf je eine Maschenreihe 2 des ersten Systems mit einem Zwirn der Drehung S eine Maschenreihe mit dem Garn 3 mit Z-Drehung. Die gegenläufige Drehung bewirkt eine Versteifung des Maschengebildes. Dabei wird ausserdem eine Versteifung der einzelnen Maschen stäbchen St dadurch bewirkt, dass jedes der Garne 2, 3 aus Einfach-Garnen mit überstarker Drehung (ZZ bzw. SS) besteht, die der Zwirn-Drehung (S bzw. Z) entgegengesetzt ist.As can be seen from the illustration, each
Das Gestrick ist als Fertigware mercerisiert, wobei sich erfindungsgemäss gezeigt hat, dass die Mercerisierung nicht nur einen waschfesten Glanz bewirkt, sondern auch Griff, Stand und Festigkeit im Sinne der erfindungsgemäss gestellten Aufgabe verbessert.The knitted fabric is mercerized as a finished product, whereby it has been shown according to the invention that the mercerization not only brings about a wash-resistant sheen, but also improves grip, stability and strength in the sense of the object set according to the invention.
Das Gewirke ist ausserdem nach dem Mercerisieren in bekannter Weise mit Kunstharz fixiert.The knitted fabric is also fixed in a known manner with synthetic resin after the mercerization.
Im Rahmen der Merkmale der Erfindung bzw. der Kombination dieser Merkmale ist die Wahl der Garn- oder Zwirnsorten sowie der Maschendichte abhängig von der gewünschten Elastizität des Gestricks. In jedem Fall lässt sich eine Verbesserung des Stands bzw. der Festigkeit und des Griffs erreichen.Within the scope of the features of the invention or the combination of these features, the choice of yarn or thread types and the stitch density depends on the desired elasticity of the knitted fabric. In any case, an improvement in the stand or the strength and the grip can be achieved.
Claims (11)
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CH5489 | 1989-01-09 | ||
| CH54/89 | 1989-01-09 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP0378053A1 true EP0378053A1 (en) | 1990-07-18 |
Family
ID=4178265
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP89810988A Withdrawn EP0378053A1 (en) | 1989-01-09 | 1989-12-28 | Single jersey knitwear and method for its manufacture |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0378053A1 (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP0867546A3 (en) * | 1997-03-10 | 1999-06-23 | Dr. Th. Böhme KG Chem. Fabrik GmbH & Co. | Method for making textile elastic webs |
| WO2000012798A1 (en) * | 1998-09-01 | 2000-03-09 | Boehme Chem Fab Kg | Process for producing elastic textile fabrics |
Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE106852C (en) * | ||||
| FR331723A (en) * | 1903-05-08 | 1903-09-28 | Etablissements Poron Soc D | Use of the properties of yarns spun with right-hand twist, and those spun with left-twist, in the manufacture of knitted or crocheted articles of various appearances |
| FR707941A (en) * | 1930-01-09 | 1931-07-16 | Westcott Hosiery Mills | Knitting |
| GB819725A (en) * | 1955-02-10 | 1959-09-09 | Grove Silk Company | Stretchable fabric and method of making same from multiplicity of yarn ends |
| GB940691A (en) * | 1959-12-24 | 1963-10-30 | Charnos Ltd | Improvements in and relating to knitted fabric and articles |
-
1989
- 1989-12-28 EP EP89810988A patent/EP0378053A1/en not_active Withdrawn
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| DE106852C (en) * | ||||
| FR331723A (en) * | 1903-05-08 | 1903-09-28 | Etablissements Poron Soc D | Use of the properties of yarns spun with right-hand twist, and those spun with left-twist, in the manufacture of knitted or crocheted articles of various appearances |
| FR707941A (en) * | 1930-01-09 | 1931-07-16 | Westcott Hosiery Mills | Knitting |
| GB819725A (en) * | 1955-02-10 | 1959-09-09 | Grove Silk Company | Stretchable fabric and method of making same from multiplicity of yarn ends |
| GB940691A (en) * | 1959-12-24 | 1963-10-30 | Charnos Ltd | Improvements in and relating to knitted fabric and articles |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP0867546A3 (en) * | 1997-03-10 | 1999-06-23 | Dr. Th. Böhme KG Chem. Fabrik GmbH & Co. | Method for making textile elastic webs |
| WO2000012798A1 (en) * | 1998-09-01 | 2000-03-09 | Boehme Chem Fab Kg | Process for producing elastic textile fabrics |
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| 18D | Application deemed to be withdrawn |
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