EP0288553A1 - Compositions utilisees pour le changement permanent de la couleur des cheveux - Google Patents
Compositions utilisees pour le changement permanent de la couleur des cheveuxInfo
- Publication number
- EP0288553A1 EP0288553A1 EP87907847A EP87907847A EP0288553A1 EP 0288553 A1 EP0288553 A1 EP 0288553A1 EP 87907847 A EP87907847 A EP 87907847A EP 87907847 A EP87907847 A EP 87907847A EP 0288553 A1 EP0288553 A1 EP 0288553A1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- hair
- composition
- quaternized amino
- amino lactam
- lactam
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Withdrawn
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 88
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 85
- -1 amino lactam Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 27
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 230000037308 hair color Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 230000000149 penetrating effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrochloric acid Chemical compound Cl VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen bromide Chemical compound Br CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- 125000002877 alkyl aryl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- 125000002947 alkylene group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- 125000003710 aryl alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- XMBWDFGMSWQBCA-UHFFFAOYSA-M iodide Chemical compound [I-] XMBWDFGMSWQBCA-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims abstract description 3
- 238000009472 formulation Methods 0.000 claims description 40
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 27
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 26
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 25
- 150000003951 lactams Chemical class 0.000 claims description 25
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 claims description 25
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 claims description 22
- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 claims description 15
- 230000003750 conditioning effect Effects 0.000 claims description 12
- 150000002978 peroxides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- 230000004075 alteration Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 230000001590 oxidative effect Effects 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000001024 permanent hair color Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910021529 ammonia Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000004986 phenylenediamines Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000012190 activator Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000000913 palmityl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000004079 stearyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000003760 tallow Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000005189 alkyl hydroxy group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 125000001421 myristyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000012670 alkaline solution Substances 0.000 claims 1
- XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Melanin Chemical compound O=C1C(=O)C(C2=CNC3=C(C(C(=O)C4=C32)=O)C)=C2C4=CNC2=C1C XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 abstract description 20
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 abstract description 6
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 abstract description 4
- 238000004090 dissolution Methods 0.000 abstract description 2
- 239000004604 Blowing Agent Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000000543 intermediate Substances 0.000 description 19
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Chemical compound O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 19
- KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isopropanol Chemical compound CC(C)O KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 15
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 14
- NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phosphoric acid Chemical compound OP(O)(O)=O NBIIXXVUZAFLBC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 12
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 239000004615 ingredient Substances 0.000 description 12
- KCXVZYZYPLLWCC-UHFFFAOYSA-N EDTA Chemical compound OC(=O)CN(CC(O)=O)CCN(CC(O)=O)CC(O)=O KCXVZYZYPLLWCC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 11
- LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCO LYCAIKOWRPUZTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 239000007844 bleaching agent Substances 0.000 description 10
- 239000000118 hair dye Substances 0.000 description 10
- GEHJYWRUCIMESM-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium sulfite Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S([O-])=O GEHJYWRUCIMESM-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 10
- 229960001484 edetic acid Drugs 0.000 description 9
- 229940049964 oleate Drugs 0.000 description 9
- 230000035515 penetration Effects 0.000 description 9
- JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N (2r,3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol Chemical class OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 8
- NLXLAEXVIDQMFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia chloride Chemical compound [NH4+].[Cl-] NLXLAEXVIDQMFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- VHUUQVKOLVNVRT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonium hydroxide Chemical compound [NH4+].[OH-] VHUUQVKOLVNVRT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 8
- 229910001868 water Inorganic materials 0.000 description 8
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 7
- 239000000908 ammonium hydroxide Substances 0.000 description 7
- 125000000118 dimethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 7
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- PLIKAWJENQZMHA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-aminophenol Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 PLIKAWJENQZMHA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Propylene glycol Chemical compound CC(O)CO DNIAPMSPPWPWGF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 229910000147 aluminium phosphate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 6
- 229960000541 cetyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 6
- 239000008367 deionised water Substances 0.000 description 6
- 239000008187 granular material Substances 0.000 description 6
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 6
- GHMLBKRAJCXXBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N resorcinol Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC(O)=C1 GHMLBKRAJCXXBS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 6
- WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N (E)-8-Octadecenoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCC(O)=O WRIDQFICGBMAFQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- CBCKQZAAMUWICA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,4-phenylenediamine Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(N)C=C1 CBCKQZAAMUWICA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- FECNOIODIVNEKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[(2-aminobenzoyl)amino]benzoic acid Chemical class NC1=CC=CC=C1C(=O)NC1=CC=CC=C1C(O)=O FECNOIODIVNEKI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 20:1omega9c fatty acid Natural products CCCCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O LQJBNNIYVWPHFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 9-Heptadecensaeure Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O QSBYPNXLFMSGKH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000005642 Oleic acid Substances 0.000 description 5
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Oleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 description 5
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 description 5
- 239000012153 distilled water Substances 0.000 description 5
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 description 5
- WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydroxyacetaldehyde Natural products OCC=O WGCNASOHLSPBMP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N isooleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- JRKICGRDRMAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-L persulfate group Chemical group S(=O)(=O)([O-])OOS(=O)(=O)[O-] JRKICGRDRMAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 5
- 235000010265 sodium sulphite Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 230000008961 swelling Effects 0.000 description 5
- NJPQAIBZIHNJDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-dodecylpyrrolidin-2-one Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCN1CCCC1=O NJPQAIBZIHNJDO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 description 4
- UTXPMECBRCEYCI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-[2-[2-[2-(4-nonylphenoxy)ethoxy]ethoxy]ethoxy]ethanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC1=CC=C(OCCOCCOCCOCCO)C=C1 UTXPMECBRCEYCI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Phenol Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC=C1 ISWSIDIOOBJBQZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 235000019270 ammonium chloride Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 4
- XVOYSCVBGLVSOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N cysteic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C(N)CS(O)(=O)=O XVOYSCVBGLVSOL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 235000019441 ethanol Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 238000011156 evaluation Methods 0.000 description 4
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229940067606 lecithin Drugs 0.000 description 4
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229940116391 nonoxynol-4 Drugs 0.000 description 4
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 description 4
- WQGWDDDVZFFDIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N pyrogallol Chemical compound OC1=CC=CC(O)=C1O WQGWDDDVZFFDIG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000011734 sodium Chemical class 0.000 description 4
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 4
- 238000009827 uniform distribution Methods 0.000 description 4
- KJCVRFUGPWSIIH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-naphthol Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C(O)=CC=CC2=C1 KJCVRFUGPWSIIH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- CDAWCLOXVUBKRW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-aminophenol Chemical compound NC1=CC=CC=C1O CDAWCLOXVUBKRW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- RAUWPNXIALNKQM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-nitro-1,2-phenylenediamine Chemical compound NC1=CC=C([N+]([O-])=O)C=C1N RAUWPNXIALNKQM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 description 3
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 description 3
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 230000006378 damage Effects 0.000 description 3
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-heptadecyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GOQYKNQRPGWPLP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- MWUXSHHQAYIFBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N nitrogen oxide Inorganic materials O=[N] MWUXSHHQAYIFBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229920004918 nonoxynol-9 Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 229940087419 nonoxynol-9 Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 150000004040 pyrrolidinones Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000000344 soap Substances 0.000 description 3
- 230000000087 stabilizing effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- FBWNMEQMRUMQSO-UHFFFAOYSA-N tergitol NP-9 Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC1=CC=C(OCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCOCCO)C=C1 FBWNMEQMRUMQSO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000003981 vehicle Substances 0.000 description 3
- FFJCNSLCJOQHKM-CLFAGFIQSA-N (z)-1-[(z)-octadec-9-enoxy]octadec-9-ene Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCOCCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC FFJCNSLCJOQHKM-CLFAGFIQSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FRASJONUBLZVQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,4-dioxonaphthalene Natural products C1=CC=C2C(=O)C=CC(=O)C2=C1 FRASJONUBLZVQX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- BOKGTLAJQHTOKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C(O)=CC=CC2=C1O BOKGTLAJQHTOKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Aminoethan-1-ol Chemical compound NCCO HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- HVHNMNGARPCGGD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(N)C([N+]([O-])=O)=C1 HVHNMNGARPCGGD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QIGBRXMKCJKVMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydroquinone Chemical compound OC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 QIGBRXMKCJKVMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- LEVWYRKDKASIDU-IMJSIDKUSA-N L-cystine Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)[C@@H]([NH3+])CSSC[C@H]([NH3+])C([O-])=O LEVWYRKDKASIDU-IMJSIDKUSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000004166 Lanolin Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000004698 Polyethylene Substances 0.000 description 2
- 206010070835 Skin sensitisation Diseases 0.000 description 2
- CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sodium Carbonate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]C([O-])=O CDBYLPFSWZWCQE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfurous acid Chemical compound OS(O)=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- RAHZWNYVWXNFOC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulphur dioxide Chemical compound O=S=O RAHZWNYVWXNFOC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- FVFJGQJXAWCHIE-UHFFFAOYSA-N [4-(bromomethyl)phenyl]methanamine Chemical compound NCC1=CC=C(CBr)C=C1 FVFJGQJXAWCHIE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 2
- 150000001412 amines Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 125000000129 anionic group Chemical group 0.000 description 2
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000002585 base Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N cholesterol Chemical compound C1C=C2C[C@@H](O)CC[C@]2(C)[C@@H]2[C@@H]1[C@@H]1CC[C@H]([C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)[C@@]1(C)CC2 HVYWMOMLDIMFJA-DPAQBDIFSA-N 0.000 description 2
- MRUAUOIMASANKQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N cocamidopropyl betaine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)NCCC[N+](C)(C)CC([O-])=O MRUAUOIMASANKQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 description 2
- 229960003067 cystine Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 229910021641 deionized water Inorganic materials 0.000 description 2
- 239000003599 detergent Substances 0.000 description 2
- XXJWXESWEXIICW-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol monoethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCCOCCO XXJWXESWEXIICW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000010790 dilution Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000012895 dilution Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000001035 drying Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000004927 fusion Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229940075507 glyceryl monostearate Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 230000003700 hair damage Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229940039717 lanolin Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 235000019388 lanolin Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 108010020344 melanoproteins Proteins 0.000 description 2
- 238000012986 modification Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000004048 modification Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000003607 modifier Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000001788 mono and diglycerides of fatty acids Substances 0.000 description 2
- 230000003472 neutralizing effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229920000847 nonoxynol Polymers 0.000 description 2
- SNQQPOLDUKLAAF-UHFFFAOYSA-N nonylphenol Chemical class CCCCCCCCCC1=CC=CC=C1O SNQQPOLDUKLAAF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QIQXTHQIDYTFRH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 235000019645 odor Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N platinum Chemical compound [Pt] BASFCYQUMIYNBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 229920000573 polyethylene Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 230000001737 promoting effect Effects 0.000 description 2
- 229940079877 pyrogallol Drugs 0.000 description 2
- 150000003254 radicals Chemical class 0.000 description 2
- 230000035945 sensitivity Effects 0.000 description 2
- 210000003491 skin Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 231100000370 skin sensitisation Toxicity 0.000 description 2
- AKHNMLFCWUSKQB-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium thiosulfate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=S AKHNMLFCWUSKQB-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 2
- 235000019345 sodium thiosulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 2
- 238000005063 solubilization Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000007928 solubilization Effects 0.000 description 2
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 2
- CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N thioglycolic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CS CWERGRDVMFNCDR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N urea hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO.NC(N)=O AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- VPBQEWYEJDAYKP-UHFFFAOYSA-N (2-chloro-4,5-difluorophenyl)methanol Chemical compound OCC1=CC(F)=C(F)C=C1Cl VPBQEWYEJDAYKP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KMCFMEHSEWDYKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N (4-azaniumylphenyl)-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)azanium;sulfate Chemical compound OS(O)(=O)=O.NC1=CC=C(N(CCO)CCO)C=C1 KMCFMEHSEWDYKG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N (9Z)-octadecen-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- BAHPQISAXRFLCL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,4-Diaminoanisole Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(N)C=C1N BAHPQISAXRFLCL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LCPVQAHEFVXVKT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-(2,4-difluorophenoxy)pyridin-3-amine Chemical compound NC1=CC=CN=C1OC1=CC=C(F)C=C1F LCPVQAHEFVXVKT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JHWIEAWILPSRMU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methyl-3-pyrimidin-4-ylpropanoic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C(C)CC1=CC=NC=N1 JHWIEAWILPSRMU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CWLKGDAVCFYWJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 3-aminophenol Chemical class NC1=CC=CC(O)=C1 CWLKGDAVCFYWJK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- WHODQVWERNSQEO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-Amino-2-nitrophenol Chemical compound NC1=CC=C(O)C([N+]([O-])=O)=C1 WHODQVWERNSQEO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JYCQQPHGFMYQCF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 4-tert-Octylphenol monoethoxylate Chemical compound CC(C)(C)CC(C)(C)C1=CC=C(OCCO)C=C1 JYCQQPHGFMYQCF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bisulfite Chemical compound OS([O-])=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 101710196022 Cuticle protein Proteins 0.000 description 1
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-DUZGATOHSA-N D-araboascorbic acid Natural products OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-DUZGATOHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000003109 Disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 241000565362 Fraxinus velutina Species 0.000 description 1
- 241000447437 Gerreidae Species 0.000 description 1
- 206010019049 Hair texture abnormal Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000004354 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 1
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical class C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 206010033546 Pallor Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002202 Polyethylene glycol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920000289 Polyquaternium Polymers 0.000 description 1
- ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Potassium Chemical class [K] ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004115 Sodium Silicate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 206010044625 Trichorrhexis Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 235000005811 Viola adunca Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000013487 Viola odorata Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000002254 Viola papilionacea Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 241000404236 Zizina otis Species 0.000 description 1
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000008051 alkyl sulfates Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000001408 amides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- ROOXNKNUYICQNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N ammonium peroxydisulfate Substances [NH4+].[NH4+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)OOS([O-])(=O)=O ROOXNKNUYICQNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- VAZSKTXWXKYQJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N ammonium persulfate Chemical compound [NH4+].[NH4+].[O-]S(=O)OOS([O-])=O VAZSKTXWXKYQJF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910001870 ammonium persulfate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002280 amphoteric surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000004982 aromatic amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000007514 bases Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- GEHJBWKLJVFKPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N bromochloroacetic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C(Cl)Br GEHJBWKLJVFKPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004359 castor oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019438 castor oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000003093 cationic surfactant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000012000 cholesterol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011248 coating agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000576 coating method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940073507 cocamidopropyl betaine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000006103 coloring component Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000000536 complexating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009833 condensation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000005494 condensation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000001143 conditioned effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004132 cross linking Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000000151 cysteine group Chemical group N[C@@H](CS)C(=O)* 0.000 description 1
- 238000004042 decolorization Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000007812 deficiency Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002939 deleterious effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000004985 diamines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000003467 diminishing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000982 direct dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019301 disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000003974 emollient agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004318 erythorbic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010350 erythorbic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 150000002169 ethanolamines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- BEFDCLMNVWHSGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N ethenylcyclopentane Chemical compound C=CC1CCCC1 BEFDCLMNVWHSGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000005562 fading Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229960005150 glycerol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N glycerol triricinoleate Natural products CCCCCC[C@@H](O)CC=CCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](COC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@@H](O)CCCCCC)OC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CC[C@H](O)CCCCCC ZEMPKEQAKRGZGQ-XOQCFJPHSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 210000003780 hair follicle Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 230000003779 hair growth Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229910001385 heavy metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000019447 hydroxyethyl cellulose Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940026239 isoascorbic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011159 matrix material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229940115453 n,n-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-phenylenediamine sulfate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000004780 naphthols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000000449 nitro group Chemical group [O-][N+](*)=O 0.000 description 1
- 229940116390 octoxynol-1 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920004899 octoxynol-1 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940055577 oleyl alcohol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N oleyl alcohol Natural products CCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCCCO XMLQWXUVTXCDDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000010525 oxidative degradation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- ATGUVEKSASEFFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N p-aminodiphenylamine Chemical compound C1=CC(N)=CC=C1NC1=CC=CC=C1 ATGUVEKSASEFFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052697 platinum Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001184 polypeptide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000008442 polyphenolic compounds Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000011591 potassium Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000012286 potassium permanganate Substances 0.000 description 1
- USHAGKDGDHPEEY-UHFFFAOYSA-L potassium persulfate Chemical compound [K+].[K+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)OOS([O-])(=O)=O USHAGKDGDHPEEY-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000002243 precursor Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002028 premature Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 102000004196 processed proteins & peptides Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 108090000765 processed proteins & peptides Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 235000018102 proteins Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 150000003222 pyridines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000004929 pyrrolidonyl group Chemical group N1(C(CCC1)=O)* 0.000 description 1
- UKHVLWKBNNSRRR-TYYBGVCCSA-M quaternium-15 Chemical compound [Cl-].C1N(C2)CN3CN2C[N+]1(C/C=C/Cl)C3 UKHVLWKBNNSRRR-TYYBGVCCSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 229940096792 quaternium-15 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 230000009257 reactivity Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000011084 recovery Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010405 reoxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000007086 side reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229910052708 sodium Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- JVBXVOWTABLYPX-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium dithionite Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S(=O)S([O-])=O JVBXVOWTABLYPX-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 235000010267 sodium hydrogen sulphite Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019795 sodium metasilicate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- CHQMHPLRPQMAMX-UHFFFAOYSA-L sodium persulfate Substances [Na+].[Na+].[O-]S(=O)(=O)OOS([O-])(=O)=O CHQMHPLRPQMAMX-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- NTHWMYGWWRZVTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N sodium silicate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[O-][Si]([O-])=O NTHWMYGWWRZVTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052911 sodium silicate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010199 sorbic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004334 sorbic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940075582 sorbic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003860 storage Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000001424 substituent group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000002522 swelling effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000271 synthetic detergent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003784 tall oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000008719 thickening Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010409 thin film Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003573 thiols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- FYOWZTWVYZOZSI-UHFFFAOYSA-N thiourea dioxide Chemical compound NC(=N)S(O)=O FYOWZTWVYZOZSI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000009736 wetting Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
Definitions
- the invention relates to an aqueous composition containing a stable conditioning, softening and penetrating agent for hair undergoing treatment with a color altering formulation.
- the invention relates to an agent which enhances the dissolution of melanin and promotes penetration of an oxidation dye intermediate into a hair follicle.
- the invention relates to an additive for a hair bleaching composition and, in yet another aspect an additive for a permanent hair coloring shampoo composition.
- the main coloring component of hair is a dark pigment, melanin, which occurs as granules embedded in the hair cortex.
- the aim of bleaching is to decolorize selectively the natural pigments or applied pigments in the hair with minimal damage to the hair matrix.
- the color changes to lighter and lighter shades depending upon the amount of melanin granules dissolved and removed from the hair fiber.
- Hydrogen peroxide is the leading solvent for melanin used in the bleaching process; however, along with melanin removal, the peroxide reacts with keratin to cause loss of tensile properties and damage to the hair.
- bleaching occurs in two steps: (1) initial solubilization of the color granules, and (2) decolorization of the dark brown solubilized pigment.
- the reaction between melano-protein and hydrogen peroxide is confined mainly to the protein-combined cystene residues which are subsequently converted to combined cysteic acid.
- the solubilization of the melanin granules is connected with the splitting of the disulfide bridges in the melano protein and it is likely that the disulfide bridge may be the stabilizing factor in melanin, as it is in keratins.
- the bleaching process can be halted at any point or can be permitted to continue to a light blonde or platinum shade.
- the latter provides a good background for a variety of tints which can be obtained by a subsequent coloring step.
- Such bleaching and coloring combination is known as a double process coloring and causes hair damage by promoting porosity, brittleness, loss of tensile strength and dryness.
- Permanent hair colorants involve the use of oxidation dye intermediates which are colorless substances but which, when mixed with oxidizing agents just prior to use, produce color by a process of oxidative condensation. More specifically, the intermediates, in the presence of an oxidant, couple with another oxidation dye intermediate molecule to form a large fused ring color compound within the hair fiber. Since the fused ring product is too large to penetrate the hair fiber, it is essential that good penetration is achieved by the precursor intermediate. The oxidation dye process engenders many changes in the chemical and cosmetic characteristics of the hair which are undesirable. Specifically, the effect of alkali swelling of the hair fiber leads to loss of tensile strength, flexibility and promotes a porous, dry appearance.
- the oxidation dye intermediates often cause skin sensitivity and reddening. Still further, the color imparted on processed hair is often non-uniform since the preprocessed sections, have higher porosity and absorb the interemediate at a faster rate than virign growth which is more resistant to absorption.
- Certain quaternized amine compounds and polymeric amines as disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,532,127 and U.S. Patent 4,579,732 have been developed to overcome some of the above problems. However these basic compounds have not been found to be completely satisfactory since they react with anionic components which are commonly present in hair colori ng or bleaching composi tions . Thi s reactivity causes undesirable alterations in the shade desired.
- the amino groups react with hydrogen peroxide to form nitrogen oxides, thus increasing the effective amount of peroxide which must be employed in bleaching compositions. Since peroxides are known to have a drying effect on hair, it is desirable to use as little as possible to obtain the desired effect. Further the relatively high viscosity of the polymeric compounds together with the normal variation in molecular weiqht of the polymer chains in the product lead to formulation problems in reproducability of product quality and in storage of the product over extended periods. In addition the large molecular size of the polymeric products prevents their penetration into the hair fiber and instead forms a coating over the hair, which may develop tack under conditions of high humidity. Finally, many hair dye and bleaching compositions produce a disagreeable odor which the prior quaternized amino compounds do not mask.
- a quaternized amino lactam which is incorporated into a permanent hair color altering formulation at a concentration of between about 0.01 to about 12 wt. %, preferably between about 0.5 and about 7.5 wt. % based on total weight of the treating formulation.
- the lactams of the present invention are defined by the structure
- m is an integer having a value of from 1 to 4;
- R is alkylene having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms and is optionally substituted with C 1 to C 4 alkyl;
- R 1 , R 2 and R 3 are each independently selected from the group of alkyl, alkyl oxide, alkylhydroxy, alkoxy, aryl, aralkyl, alkaryl, and alkyl amidoalkyl radicals, said groups each having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and at least one of R 1 , R 2 and R 3 is a radical having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
- X- is a chloride, bromide or iodide anion, preferably a chloride anion.
- lactams having the formula
- pyrrolidones wherein at least one of R 2 and R 3 is octadecyl, hexadecyl, tetradecyl, hydrogenated tallow or coco and wherein the other of R 2 and R 3 is methyl or the same as R 3 .
- R 3 is hexadecyl or octadecyl which are employed in a concentration of between about 0.75 and about 5.0 wt. %.
- the present lactams pyrrolidones are beneficially incorporated into the color altering formulation just before use.
- formulation includes a cream, a gel, an emulsion or a watery liquid or detergent solution.
- the present lactams can be used individually or in admixtures and can be added to any of the commercial hair bleaching or oxidation dye intermediate formulations or compositions containing an oxidation dye intermediate including a permanent shampoo tint, a permanent hair dye, hair bleach, hair blanch or hair dye removal preparation for home or professional use.
- an oxidation dye intermediate including a permanent shampoo tint, a permanent hair dye, hair bleach, hair blanch or hair dye removal preparation for home or professional use.
- color altering preparations may be made up using the components normally included in preparations currently marketed and the lactams of this invention added to improve properties and minimize hair damage.
- the permanent hair dye formulations of this invention are those employed for changing the color of hair, covering up white hair, shading the hair after lightening or simultaneous bleaching and dyeing or double process blonding to provide color alteration of long color durability.
- the permanent dye formulations of this invention conventionally include an oxidation dye intermediate such as an analog or a derivative of a phenylene diamine, an aminophenol, a phenol or naphthol which, upon oxidation couples with itself or another analog or derivative of phenylene diamine to form a large fused ring compound having at least one unsaturated chromophoric bond within the hair fiber.
- the color developed from the colorless intermediate depends on the substituents or terminal groups of the diamine, for example, such groups as an aromatic amine or phenol, an aromatic nitro group or trace amounts of heavy metal. Other factors which alter the shade of the dyed hair include concentration, alkaninity, base composition and the combination of intermediates involved in the oxidation reaction.
- the dyeing or bleaching of hair generally requires from about 10 to about 40 minutes of processing time.
- Use of the present lactams can reduce processing time by at least 10%.
- Table I provides a representative group of dye intermediates, color couplers and modifiers employed to obtain specific hair shades. Also, any of the dyes disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,532,127 are suitably employed in this invention.
- color modifiers or couplers include m-diamines, m-amino phenols, polyhydroxy phenols, which are also stabilizers and antioxidants, and naphthols.
- the later are often used as secondary dye intermediates in the formulation.
- Pyridine derivatives have also been suggested for use as a dye intermediate in place of phenylene diamines.
- direct dyes can be added to the formulations to provide color highlights.
- the color vehicle for the dye intermediates is employed at a pH usually between about 9 and 11 which can be adjusted with ammonium hydroxide to the desired level of alkalinity.
- the ammonium hydroxide base is preferred since ammonia assists in swelling the hair fiber and by being easily removed.
- the color vehicle is an aqueous solution of soap or synthetic detergent which provides wetting and penetration of the dye intermediate.
- Ammonium oleate, alkanol amides and shampoo detergents such as fatty alkyl sulfates, fatty acid polypeptide condensates and oxyethylated fatty alcohols are most commonly employed.
- formulations may also include interemediate solubility aids such as propylene glycol, ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol and conditioners such as glycerol, lanolin, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, etc. and antioxidants such as a sulfite, primarily sodium sulfite or bisulfite, and thioglycolic acid which are usually included to prevent premature oxidation.
- interemediate solubility aids such as propylene glycol, ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol and conditioners such as glycerol, lanolin, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, etc.
- antioxidants such as a sulfite, primarily sodium sulfite or bisulfite, and thioglycolic acid which are usually included to prevent premature oxidation.
- lactams to this formulation obviates the need for other conditioners, promotes penetration of the intermediate into the hair fiber particularly in the areas of new growth, substantially reduces skin sensitization, promotes hair fiber swelling and results in a more uniform distribution of color while giving the hair a soft, silky, conditioned texture after processing.
- the lactam moiety, particularly the pyrrolidonyl moiety of the present compounds exerts a stabilizing effect on the quaternized amino group so that the present compounds do not react with peroxides or anionic components. This stabilizing effect enables the use of smaller amounts of these components to achieve the desired effect.
- the oxidation dye intermediate formulation is applied to the hair with a oxidation dye developer.
- the developer is an oxidant mixed with the intermediate formulation just before application and is usually applied in equal parts with the intermediate formulation; although when hydrogen peroxide is used as the developer, between about 1.5 and about 2 parts peroxide per part of intermediate can be used to cause bleaching and coloring in a single application.
- Creams or aqueous solutions of 5 to 7% hydrogen peroxide or urea peroxide are the primary developers commercially employed.
- developers which have been suggested include chloroates, persulfates, perborates and sodium dichromate.
- the lactams of this invention can also be added to the developer formultion for more uniform distribution and/or thickening effect as in cream applications.
- the above dye components are often formulated into shampoos with oleate soaps or ethoxylated fatty alcohols to prevent drip and run-off.
- the hair dye operations may be followed by a final conditioning treatment, a neutralizing rinse or an acid balanced shampoo containing in addition to cationic or amphoteric surfactants, cation-active emollients.
- the present lactams may also be added to such neutralizing applications for conditioning effect.
- lactam can be added to the above developing formulation instead of to the dye formulation or the amount of lactam can be divided between both the dye and developer formulations.
- concentration of lactam in dye and developer system can range between about 0.75% and about 7.5% by weight, preferably between about 1% and about 5% by weight.
- Bleaching involves a process for partial or complete oxidative degradation of the natural color pigment, i.e. melanin granules mainly present in cortex of hair fiber, or removal of applied dye pigment in or on the hair. As a side reaction, bleaching also attacks the hair cuticle proteins, i.e.
- the most common bleaching agent comprises an aqueous soltuion of hydrogen peroxide of between about 5 to 9% strength in a formulation adjusted to a pH of from about 9 to about 11; although urea peroxide and other hydrogen peroxide creams incorporating a thickening agent such as a fatty alcohol or an alkanolamide can also be used.
- the peroxide bleaching agent is employed with an activator which is added just before use, ammonium hydroxide being preferred by most practitioners since the ammonia swells the hair fiber to allow for peroxide penetration and is volatile which permits easy removal.
- activators which have been employed include sodium carbonate and ethanolamines.
- Bleach accelerators and boosters such as persulfate salts of ammonia, potassium and sodium may be used as well and conditioners e.g. ammonium oleate soap, a lipophilic surfactant, cholesterol and lanolin derivatives, are generally included in the peroxide formulation. Notwithstanding the generous use of such conditioning agents, noticeable drying, splitting and texture loss to the hair occurs.
- the present lactams can be added to these formulations in the above amounts to minimize skin sensitivity, to preserve the tensile properties of the hair and to provide a strong conditioning action by forming a thin film over the hair cuticle which eliminates or minimizes hair dryness and breakage. Also, because of their high penetrating power and hair swelling properties, the present lactams are capable of diminishing the time hair is exposed to the chemical oxidation process.
- Some typical hair bleaching formulations include the following.
- Phosphoric Acid 10% C.P. to pH 3.5 to 4.0 100.00
- lactams of this invention can be applied include hair blanching which employs sulfur dioxide or potassium permanganate followed by sodium thiosulfate to convert hair of mixed grey to snowy white and processes for certain hair dye removal techniques which employ a weak solution of sodium hydrosulfite, sodium thiosulfate or aminoiminomethane sulfinic acid.
- Each of the representative compositions X and Y comprising the hair bleach formulation were divided into equal portions.
- the first divided portions of X-Y were combined and immediately applied to portions of the hair selected for frosting on the left side of the scalp of the subject undergoing testing.
- the subject had (color) hair of good texture and quality.
- 1 wt. % of the quaternized dimethyl octadecyl-[N-(2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl] ammonium chloride was added to the remaining divided X-Y portions, after being combined.
- the later mixture of combined X-Y portions, containing the quaternized lactam was applied to equal portions of the hair selected for frosting on the right side of the scalp of said subject .
- the quaternized lactam, dimethyl octadecyl-[N-(2- pyrrolidonyl)methyl] ammonium chloride was also evaluated as an additive to a standard hair dye formulation namely (Loving Care - Medium Brown).
- a standard hair dye formulation namely (Loving Care - Medium Brown).
- Each of the representative compositions A, B and C comprising the hair dye formulation were divided in equal portions.
- the first divided portions A-C were combined and immediately applied to the left side of the hair on the scalp of the subject undergoing testing. The subject had dark brown and grey hair of fine texture and quality.
- 1 wt. % of the quaternized dimethyl octadecyl-[N-(2-pyrrolidonyl)methyl] ammonium chloride was added.
- the later combined A-C portion, containing the quaternized lactam was applied to the hair on the right side of the scalp of said subject.
- the lotions on the hair on each side of the scalp were allowed to remain for a period of 30 minutes, after which they were rinsed away with water.
- the hair was then shampooed and blown dry.
- the following evaluations comparing the hair on the right and left side of the scalp were made. The results of this evaluation are reported in Table III.
- lactams of this invention can be added to a conventional shampoo tint to improve dye penetration and dye resistance to fading. As described, the lactam is added just prior to use.
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- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| US922923 | 1978-07-10 | ||
| US06/922,923 US4732990A (en) | 1986-10-24 | 1986-10-24 | Quaternized nitrogen containing compounds |
| US60284 | 1987-06-10 | ||
| US07/060,284 US4834767A (en) | 1987-06-10 | 1987-06-10 | Compositions used in permanent alteration of hair color |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| EP0288553A1 true EP0288553A1 (fr) | 1988-11-02 |
| EP0288553A4 EP0288553A4 (en) | 1991-08-07 |
Family
ID=26739776
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| EP19870907847 Withdrawn EP0288553A4 (en) | 1986-10-24 | 1987-09-24 | Composition used in permanent alteration of hair color |
Country Status (8)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| EP (1) | EP0288553A4 (fr) |
| JP (1) | JPH01501003A (fr) |
| AU (1) | AU597454B2 (fr) |
| CA (1) | CA1298787C (fr) |
| DK (1) | DK350488A (fr) |
| IL (1) | IL84085A (fr) |
| NO (1) | NO882650L (fr) |
| WO (1) | WO1988003017A1 (fr) |
Families Citing this family (8)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US5157075A (en) * | 1990-05-02 | 1992-10-20 | Taenaka Mining Co., Ltd. | Modified melanin |
| EP1372588B1 (fr) * | 2001-03-30 | 2008-07-09 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Produit de decoloration pour cheveux |
| EP1300136A3 (fr) * | 2001-10-04 | 2003-05-14 | Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien | Méthode pour changer la coloration des cheveux à base de sels de dithionite |
| US6709468B2 (en) * | 2002-03-07 | 2004-03-23 | Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa | Gradual permanent coloring of hair using dye intermediates in alkaline water which contains quaternary ammonium compounds |
| FR2889660B1 (fr) * | 2005-08-11 | 2007-10-19 | Oreal | Composition de coloration des fibres keratiniques comprenant au moins une base d'oxydation et un ester de sorbitan polyoxyethylene particulier |
| DE102005059647A1 (de) * | 2005-12-12 | 2007-06-14 | Henkel Kgaa | Bleichmittel |
| CA2717914C (fr) * | 2008-03-10 | 2017-11-14 | Perachem Limited | Composition et procedes de traitement capillaire |
| FR3015272B1 (fr) * | 2013-12-19 | 2016-01-08 | Oreal | Procede de coloration mettant en œuvre des compositions riches en corps gras |
Family Cites Families (19)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| US2945863A (en) * | 1958-06-24 | 1960-07-19 | Gen Aniline & Film Corp | Amides of aminoalkyl pyrrolidones |
| NL120222C (fr) * | 1960-04-15 | |||
| US3145147A (en) * | 1961-02-20 | 1964-08-18 | Gen Aniline & Film Corp | Film forming composition of copolymers of nu-vinyl-epsilon-caprolactam |
| US3138610A (en) * | 1961-03-10 | 1964-06-23 | Gen Aniline & Film Corp | Substituted imidazolines |
| FR1326561A (fr) * | 1962-03-29 | 1963-05-10 | Oreal | Adjuvant pour fixateur de permanente |
| US3910862A (en) * | 1970-01-30 | 1975-10-07 | Gaf Corp | Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone containing quarternary ammonium groups |
| US3914403A (en) * | 1973-05-11 | 1975-10-21 | Gaf Corp | Hair care preparations containing N-vinyl pyrrolidone homo- and copolymers and a quaternized copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone |
| AT365448B (de) * | 1975-07-04 | 1982-01-11 | Oreal | Kosmetische zubereitung |
| US4532127A (en) * | 1976-02-09 | 1985-07-30 | Clairol Incorporated | Composition for lightening or coloring hair containing an oxidizing agent and certain quaternary amines |
| US4035478A (en) * | 1976-03-08 | 1977-07-12 | American Cyanamid Company | Clear, water-white hair conditioning composition |
| LU81694A1 (fr) * | 1979-09-17 | 1981-04-17 | Oreal | Composition contenant des derives d'ammonium bis quaternaires a deux chaines lipophiles destinee au traitement de matieres keratiniques et composes nouveaux utilises |
| FR2502949B1 (fr) * | 1981-04-02 | 1985-10-18 | Oreal | Procede de preparation d'une composition de teinture ou de decoloration des cheveux, composition destinee a la mise en oeuvre de ce procede, et application de la composition obtenue par le procede |
| LU83911A1 (fr) * | 1982-01-29 | 1983-09-02 | Oreal | Produit nettoyant des cheveux et de la peau a base d'acylise thionates et de polymeres cationiques |
| LU83949A1 (fr) * | 1982-02-16 | 1983-09-02 | Oreal | Composition destinee au traitement des matieres keratiniques contenant au moins un polymere cationique et au moins un latex anionique |
| FR2530141A1 (fr) * | 1982-07-13 | 1984-01-20 | Oreal | Procede de mise en plis des cheveux et composition cosmetique pour sa mise en oeuvre |
| US4534877A (en) * | 1982-07-30 | 1985-08-13 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Shampoo compositions comprising specific betaine surfactants and a quaternary compound |
| US4457912A (en) * | 1982-08-24 | 1984-07-03 | Scodari Nicholas F | Electric razor preshave composition |
| FR2553779B1 (fr) * | 1983-10-19 | 1986-02-21 | Hoechst France | Tetrapolymeres ampholytes cationiques, leur application dans le traitement des fibres keratiniques et les compositions les renfermant |
| US4732990A (en) * | 1986-10-24 | 1988-03-22 | Gaf Corporation | Quaternized nitrogen containing compounds |
-
1987
- 1987-09-24 EP EP19870907847 patent/EP0288553A4/en not_active Withdrawn
- 1987-09-24 JP JP63500122A patent/JPH01501003A/ja active Pending
- 1987-09-24 WO PCT/US1987/002457 patent/WO1988003017A1/fr not_active Ceased
- 1987-09-24 AU AU82785/87A patent/AU597454B2/en not_active Ceased
- 1987-10-04 IL IL84085A patent/IL84085A/xx not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1987-10-07 CA CA000548765A patent/CA1298787C/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
1988
- 1988-06-15 NO NO882650A patent/NO882650L/no unknown
- 1988-06-24 DK DK350488A patent/DK350488A/da not_active Application Discontinuation
Non-Patent Citations (2)
| Title |
|---|
| No further relevant documents have been disclosed. * |
| See also references of WO8803017A1 * |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| EP0288553A4 (en) | 1991-08-07 |
| IL84085A0 (en) | 1988-03-31 |
| WO1988003017A1 (fr) | 1988-05-05 |
| JPH01501003A (ja) | 1989-04-06 |
| IL84085A (en) | 1993-05-13 |
| CA1298787C (fr) | 1992-04-14 |
| NO882650D0 (no) | 1988-06-15 |
| DK350488D0 (da) | 1988-06-24 |
| NO882650L (no) | 1988-06-15 |
| DK350488A (da) | 1988-06-24 |
| AU8278587A (en) | 1988-05-25 |
| AU597454B2 (en) | 1990-05-31 |
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