DE20018677U1 - Hair Dye - Google Patents

Description

·

Hair care products

The present invention relates to an agent for treating human hair, which gives it improved deformability, in particular styleability, good hold and at the same time a matte appearance.

Agents for conditioning human hair have been known for a long time. They usually contain quaternary ammonium compounds that have at least one long-chain alkyl or alkenyl group, and optionally also

Polymers.

Such agents are usually packaged as aqueous dispersions or emulsions, microemulsions, gels or in aerosol form and are used as

Used in hair conditioners, treatments, etc.

An overview of the known hair treatment products and their composition can be found in the monograph by K. Schrader, Fundamentals and Recipes of Cosmetics, 2nd edition (1989), pp. 722 to 781, especially pp. 728 to

737.

These known compositions are intended to give the hair improved properties, in particular a significantly increased volume effect, easier wet and dry combing, shine, a full, loose grip and elasticity.

The invention, on the other hand, is based on the task of creating a hair care product that not only gives the hair treated with it good hold and a permanent shape, making it modelable, so to speak, but, in contrast to the otherwise desired shine, should give the hair, especially light hair, a matte appearance.

This task is solved by a hair care product that is available as an emulsion and

a) 1 to 15% by weight of at least one natural and/or synthetic wax;

b) 1 to 15 wt.% of at least one C ₁₂ -C 24 fatty alcohol;

c) 1 to 25% by weight of at least one glycerol C12- _C24 fatty acid ester;

d) 1 to 25 wt.% of at least one emulsifier with an HLB value >6;

e) 0.25 to 5% by weight of at least one titanium dioxide pigment;

f) 2.5 to 30 wt.% of a nonionic polymer, and

g) contains water.

This product is applied, preferably after washing the hair, if necessary in the

Connection to the first filling station or: the third filling station, on which

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Applied to hair, preferably massaged into it and not removed after exposure.

These are so-called "leave on" products, in contrast to so-called "rinse off" products, which are rinsed out of the hair after a short exposure time.

Suitable titanium dioxide pigments which are used in the hair treatment agents according to the invention in an amount of about 0.25 to about 5, in particular about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, based on the total composition of the agent, are known per se.

Preferably, 90% of the particles have a particle diameter in the range of about 0.05 to 1 micron.

Examples of natural or synthetic waxes used are vegetable waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax and montan wax, animal waxes such as beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax) and rump fat, mineral waxes such as ceresin, ozokerite, petr waxes such as petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes, chemically modified waxes such as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydraulic jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, preferably in an amount of about 2.5 to 10% by weight.

The Ci2- _C24 fatty alcohols, in particular lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and cetylstearyl alcohol, are preferably also present in an amount of about 2.5 to 10 wt.%.

Cocoglycerides are used in particular as glycerol C^-C-fatty acid esters, but in principle mono-, di- and triglycerides of other fatty acids are also suitable, preferably C^-C-ie fatty acid glycerides in a total amount of 5 to 15 wt.%.

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The emulsion according to the invention is preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, although in principle other types of emulsions such as water-in-oil emulsions and mixed forms, so-called W/O/W emulsions, are also possible.
The presence of at least one emulsifier with an HLB value of at least 6, in particular at least 8, preferably a non-ionic emulsifier, is essential.

These emulsifiers are well known to the person skilled in the art; for example, reference is made to K. Schrader, Fundamentals and Recipes of Cosmetics, 2nd edition (1989, Hüthig Buch Verlag), pp. 390 to 407, and the list in H.P. Fiedler, Lexicon of Auxiliaries for Pharmacy, Cosmetics and Related Areas, 3rd edition (1989), pp. 50 to 55.

However, ionic emulsifiers can also be used, preferably in a mixture with non-ionic emulsifiers such as C^-Cis fatty alcohol ethoxylates with Ci2- _Ci8 alkyl (ether) sulfates.

The proportion of emulsifiers in the compositions according to the invention is preferably about 2 to 20, in particular about 5 to 15 wt.%.

The nonionic polymer is preferably present in an amount of about 5 to 25, in particular about 7.5 to 20% by weight of the total composition. Its amount naturally depends on the type of polymer.

Preferred nonionic polymers are polyethylene glycols and polypropylene glycols, particularly in a molecular weight range between about 1000 and about 50,000, preferably about 2000 to about 25,000.

For these products, the preferred proportion is about 10 to about 20% by weight.

Particularly preferred are PEG-20, PEG-32, PEG-40, PEG-55, PEG-60, PPG-20, PPG-26, PPG-30 and/or PPG-34.

Other suitable nonionic polymers are, for example, alcohol- and/or water-soluble vinylpyrrolidone polymers such as a vinylpyrrolidone homopolymer or copolymer, in particular with vinyl acetate.

Suitable vinylpyrrolidone polymers are, for example, the products known under the trade name "Luviskol®", for example the homopolymers "Luviskol® K 30, K 60 and K 90" as well as the water- or alcohol-soluble copolymers of

&iacgr;&idgr;*&iacgr; * *: ·:.:::; &agr;-38/&ogr;&ogr;

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Vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate, which are sold under the trade names "Luviskol® VA 55 and VA 64" by BASF AG.

Other suitable non-ionic polymers are vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate copolymers such as "Luviskol® VAP 343", vinylpyrrolidone/(meth)acrylic acid ester copolymers and chitosan derivatives. Their proportion is about 2.5 to 10% by weight of the total emulsion.

The agents according to the invention can contain additional hair conditioning active ingredients.

Suitable hair conditioning active ingredients, the amount of which in the agents used according to the invention can usually be about 0.25 to about 15, in particular 0.5 to about 10, preferably about 0.75 to 7.5 wt. %, based on the total amount of the agent, are, for example, cationic surfactants, especially quaternary ammonium compounds.

Suitable long-chain quaternary ammonium compounds which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another are, for example, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dimethyldicetylammonium chloride, trimethylcetylammonium bromide, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, dimethylstearylbenzylammonium chloride, benzyltetradecylodimethylammonium chloride, dimethyldihydrogenated tallowammonium chloride, laurylpyridinium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, tris-(oligooxyethyl)alkylammonium phosphate,
Cetyl pyridinium chloride, etc.

The quaternary ammonium salts disclosed in EP-A 472 107 are also well suited.

In principle, all quaternary ammonium compounds as listed in the currently valid “CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary” under the trivial name “Quaternium” can be used.

Their proportion is preferably about 0.25 to 10, in particular about 0.5 to 7.5 wt.%, calculated on the total composition.

i V / * &Iacgr;&Iacgr; * i :: : ^&Agr; - ^38/&ogr; °

Particularly suitable long-chain quaternary ammonium compounds are esterquats of the general formula (I)

^R3

[R' -CO -[EO] X-OCH ₂ CH ₂ -N-CH ₂ CH ₂ O-[EO] -COR ² ] Y"

^R4

in which R ¹ and R ² represent an optionally hydroxy-substituted Ce-C^-alkyl or alkenyl group, R ³ and R ⁴ represent a Ci-C3-alkyl group or a group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-[EO] ₂ H and x, y and &zgr; represent O to 5 and Y" represents an anion.

A particularly preferred esterquat within the scope of the invention is one in which the radicals R ¹ and R ² each represent an oleyl group or a Ci2-Ci8-alkyl group, the radical R ³ represents a methyl group and the radical R ⁴ represents a group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-[EO]ZH.

The anion Y" is preferably a halide such as Cl" or Br", a lower alkyl sulfate, e.g. methosulfate and ethosulfate, or an alkyl phosphate, but of course other radicals can also be used.

These compounds are known per se and are sold, for example, under the trade names “Schercoquat*,” “Dehyquart ^R F30” and “Tetranyl ^R. ”

The use of these compounds in hair care products is also already known and is described, for example, in WO-A 93/10748, WO-A 92/06899 and WO-A 94/16677, where, however, there is no reference to the combination according to the invention and its advantageous properties.

Also suitable are "Amidoquats" of the general formula

^R3

R ¹ -C-N-CH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ -CH ₂ CH ₂ -N - ^CR2

I I I I

OH R ⁴ HO

in which R ¹ and R ² each represent an optionally hydroxy-substituted C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, R ³ and R ⁴ represent a CrC ₃ alkyl group or a group -CH ₂ -CH2-O-[EO] _X -H, and &khgr; represents O to 5, Y" represents an anion.

Preferred radicals R ¹ and R ² are C ₁₂ -C 18 alkyl and oleyl radicals, the radical R ³ is a methyl group and the radical R ⁴ is a group -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O[EO] _x -H, where x is 0 to 3; Y" is preferably a methosulfate, ethyl sulfate, chloride or phosphate anion.

These compounds are known per se and are sold under the brand names "INCROQUAT® HO" or "OCS", for example.

Other suitable hair conditioning active ingredients are synthetic or natural hair conditioning polymers, preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 10, in particular 0.25 to 5 wt.% of the total composition.

Particularly preferred are the cationic (co)polymers known under the CTFA name "Polyquaternium", but anionic and/or amphoteric polymers, for example those of the "Amphomer ^R " type, can also be used alone or in a mixture.

Other hair conditioning active ingredients are lipophilic, i.e. fat and oil-containing substances, especially natural oils such as avocado oil, coconut oil, palm oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, sperm oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, peach kernel oil, wheat germ oil, macadamia nut oil, evening primrose oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, or olive or soybean oil, lanolin and its derivatives, as well as mineral oils such as paraffin oil and Vaseline or synthetic oils such as silicones.

Other suitable hydrophobic components are stearyl alcohol and fatty acid esters such as isopropyl myristate, palmitate, stearate and isostearate, oleyl oleate, isocetyl stearate, hexyl laurate, dibutyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, myristyl myristate, oleyl erucate, polyethylene glycol and polyglyceryl fatty acid esters such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, cetyl palmitate, etc.

These hydrophobic components are preferably contained in the compositions used according to the invention in a total amount of about 0.5 to about 15, in particular about 1 to 10, especially about 1.5 to 7.5 wt.%, calculated on the total composition.

Another preferred ingredient of the composition according to the invention is green tea extract.

This tea extract is obtained from leaves, leaf buds and tender stems of the tea plant, Camellia sinensis or Camellia oleifera, by aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic extraction and subsequent spray drying.

Green tea is the product obtained from the species Thea sinensis or Thea assamica and, unlike black tea, is not fermented.

An overview of the biological and pharmacological effects of green tea and its ingredients can be found, for example, in an article by A. Pistorius, SÖFW-Journal, 122nd year, No. 7/1996, pp. 468-471, to which reference is made.

The content of green tea extract in the compositions according to the invention is variable. It is preferably from 0.01 to 10, preferably from 0.05 to 5, in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight, calculated on the total composition of the agent and the powdered extract.

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Other suitable hair conditioning additives are ceramides of the general formula

R ² -O - CH ₂ -CH - O — ^R4

_CH2

N-(CH ₂ X-OR ³

^R '4

■ ■ » .

wherein R ¹ and R ² are identical or different alkyl or alkenyl radicals having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, R ³ is hydrogen or a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl or isopropyl group, R ⁴ is hydrogen, a hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, dihydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and η is an integer from 1 to 6, in particular of the type known from EP 227 994 A1 and WO-A 96/37462, but other ceramides, for example the ceramides known from WO-A 97/15724 or EP 647 617 B1, are also suitable.

The preferred groups R ¹ and R ² are C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ alkyl radicals; η is a number from 1 to 3, R ³ is preferably hydrogen or a methyl radical, and R ⁴ is hydrogen or a dihydroxypropyl radical.

Particularly preferred are compounds in which R ¹ is a C ₁₂ -C 24 alkyl radical, in particular a C ₁₃ H 27 alkyl group, R ² is a Ci 4 C 18 alkyl radical, in particular a Ci ₆ H ₃ 3 alkyl group, R ³ is a methyl radical, R ⁴ is a -CH ₂ -CH-CH ₂ -OH-GmPPe, and &eegr; 3

OH

or a compound where R ¹ is a C-is-Csi-alkyl radical, R ² is a C ₁₆ H ₃ 3-alkyl radical, R ³ and R ⁴ each represent a hydrogen atom and η is 2.

Their amount in the hair treatment agents used according to the invention is expediently about 0.01 to 10, preferably about 0.05 to 7.5, in particular about 0.1 to 5 wt.%, calculated on the total composition.

In addition to or instead of the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned, the hair care products can contain at least one C^-Cie-alkylamido-

propyldimethyl- or -diethylamine, for example stearyl-, oleyl- or cocoamidopropyldimethylamine.

Its proportion is about 0.1 to 10, preferably 0.25 to 5 wt.% of the total composition.

Of course, anionic and/or other amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are also suitable.

The compositions can of course also contain all other substances that are generally known in hair care emulsions, such as dyes, perfumes, complexing agents, protein hydrolysates, in particular cationized vegetable ones, lecithins, preservatives, antioxidants, UV absorbers, humectants such as polyalcohols, plant extracts, etc.
The addition of structure improvers or thickeners is particularly useful.

Suitable thickeners are in particular acrylic acid homo- and copolymers such as acrylic acid/acrylic ester and acrylic acid/itaconic ester copolymers, which may also be crosslinked and/or neutralized, e.g. the products known under the CTFA names Acrylates/C ₂ oC ₃ o-Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer, Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/Steareth Acrylates Copolymer, Acrylates/Acrylamides Copolymer, Acrylamides Copolymer, Acrylates/Ceteth Itaconate Copolymer, Acrylates/PVP Copolymer, as well as cationic polymers, cellulose derivatives and other polysaccharides.

These structure improvers for emulsions are already known per se, see for example K. Schrader, i.e., pp. 409-410, as well as Römpp Chemie Lexikon, 9th ed., p. 4890, and Fiedler, I.e., p. 32.

The proportion of these structure improvers depends on their type and the overall composition of the emulsion and is approximately 0.05 to 2.5, in particular 0.1 to 1 wt.%.
The following examples describe the invention in detail.

example 1
A "matt wax" with the following composition was produced:

Cetylstearyl alcohol 4.00(wt%) Ceteareth-3 9.00 Laureth-23 0.20 Candelilla wax 3.00 PEG-32 15,00 Cocoglycerides (mixture of mono-, di- and 9.00 Triglycerides of coconut oil) Sodium cetearyl sulfate 0.50 Perfume 0.1.0 Green tea extract 0.50 Preservatives 0.30 Iron oxide (Cl-No. 77,499) 0.20 TiO ₂ pigment (Cl-No. 77,891; 3.00 average particle diameter: < 1 micron) Acrylates / C _1o -C ₃ o-Alkyl Acrylates Crosspolymer 0.15 Aminomethylpropanol 0.12

Water ad 100,00

The following blind test was carried out on slightly damaged, bleached human hair strands:

After washing the hair with a commercially available shampoo, composition 1 according to the example above was massaged into the still damp hair of 5 strands.

A further 5 strands were treated in an identical manner with composition 1A, which was identical to composition 1 but did not contain any pigment particles.

The hair strands were checked before and after drying by 2 hairdressers each

the preferencerftetr)p,de assessed... · .··. .··>···.·»·: : : .:
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Result Preference Composition 1 Composition 1A a) Wet hair 4 (Silky soft, smooth) 1 (Soft, slippery) Hair feeling b) Dry hair 5 0 Hold the hairstyle 5 0 languor

This result shows the surprising superiority of the agent according to the invention, whereby the fact that an excellent matting effect is achieved even on blond (= bleached) hair is also surprising.

Example 2
A "matt wax" with the following composition was produced:

1,2-propylene glycol 2.00 (wt.%) Carbopol ^R ETD 2020 (Acrylates/ 0.50 Cio-C2o-Alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) Cocoamidopropyl betaine 1.00 Cocotroglycerides (mixture of mono-, di- and 7.50 Triglyceride) PPG20 12.00 PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.50 Ceteth-10 7.50 NaOH (32%) 0.25 Perfume 0.10 Jojoba wax 5.00 Cetyl alcohol 4.50 almond oil 2.00 TiO ₂ pigment (90% with average particles 2.60 diameter < 1 pm) Mica (C.l. No. 77,019) 0.10 Preservatives 0.35 Water ^a/ JJQQ.O . . .
· · · ·· : ::·· * /*": · · · · :'*: :": .* j' : : :

&bull; · · &iacgr;19- · · ·■· ·

This product was applied to dry hair and resulted in matte hair with excellent manageability and stable hold of the achieved hairstyle.

Example 3
A "matt wax" with the following composition:

Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 (wt.%) Mica/TiO ₂ pigment (1:10; average particle size: 2.5 <90%) Carbopol ^R ETD 2001 (carbomer) 0.5 PEG-18 7.0 Vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymer 5.5 (Luviskol ^R VA 55I) Glyceride mixture (C^-Cu mono-, di- and 5.5 Triglycerides) Aminomethylpropanol 0.4 Cocoamidopropyl betaine 1.0 Ci2-Ci4 fatty alcohol mixture 6.5 PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 1.0 Laureth-8 5.5 Oleth-10 1.5 Perfume 0.3 Benzophenone-4 0.3 Preservatives 0.3 Water ad 100.0

After massaging into freshly washed, towel-dried hair, it provided excellent hold and an attractive matte appearance to the hair.

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Claims (5)

1. Hair care product based on an emulsion containing a) 1 to 15% by weight of at least one natural and/or synthetic wax; b) 1 to 15 wt.% of at least one C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty alcohol; c) 1 to 25 wt.% of at least one glycerol C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ fatty acid ester; d) 1 to 25 wt.% of at least one emulsifier with an HLB value >6; e) 0.25 to 5% by weight of at least one titanium dioxide pigment; f) 2.5 to 30 wt.% of a nonionic polymer, and g) water. 2. Agent according to claim 1, characterized in that 90 wt.% of the titanium dioxide pigment has an average particle diameter between 0.05 and 1 micron. 3. Agent according to claim 1 and/or 2, containing as component f) about 5 to 25 wt. % of at least one polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol having a molecular weight between about 1000 and 50,000. 4. Agent according to one or more of claims 1 to 3, additionally containing a thickener. 5. Agent according to claim 4, containing as thickener 0.05 to 2.5 wt. % of an optionally crosslinked acrylic acid homo- or copolymer.