DE19916335A1 - Cosmetic agent and use - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to aqueous cosmetic products on the basis of a mild tenside for treating hair or the skin which contain: as the tenside at least one ester of a hydroxy-substituted bi- or tricarboxylic acid (A) of the general formula (I), wherein X is H or a -CH2COOR group, Y is H or -OH with the proviso that Y is H if X is -CH2COOR, R, R<1> and R<2> are independently a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom or alkaline earth atom, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium-organic base or a group Z which stems from a polyhydroxylated organic compound that is selected from the group consisting of etherified (C6-C18)-alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide moieties and etherified aliphatic (C6-C16)-hydroxyalkyl polyols with 2 to 16 hydroxyl groups, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R, R<1> or R<2> is a group Z, and at least one active substance (B) that has preservative properties and that is selected from the group of benzoic acid, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids and ketocarboxylic acids, their derivatives and their physiologically acceptable salts, with the proviso that the pH of the product ranges from 4 to 5.5. The inventive cosmetic products are characterized in that they are exceptionally mild and are excellently preserved.

Description

The invention relates to aqueous cosmetic agents for treating the hair or the Skin formulated on a mild surfactant base and the use of it Means for cleaning hair and skin.

The cleaning and care of skin and hair as well as the decorative design of the hairstyle are important components of human body care. They are correspondingly large Efforts to opti both the hairdresser and the end user in all respects to make available products. One focus of the development work is naturally with the actual product properties, be it the Reini effect of a shampoo, a shower bath or a liquid soap, the care product kung a hair treatment or skin cream, the coloring properties of a colorant or Tint, the quality of a perm or the hairstyle hold of a setting or hair sprays. At the same time, attempts are made to identify possible undesirable side effects, such as they are very sensitive to certain consumer groups such as allergy sufferers prevent people from appearing to an ever greater extent. This resulted in for example for the development of particularly skin-friendly surfactant systems for cleaning agents tel and for coloring and permanent waving agents, which in their pH value close to the neutral point or come as close as possible to the pH value of human skin. On Another point is the increase in the ecological compatibility of the products, for example through the development of particularly readily degradable surfactants and the use of natural, especially renewable raw materials in the formulation bases. Finally applies to find the best possible compromise between the need for the bearings  ensure the stability of many cosmetic products with preservatives, and the desire of many consumers for preservative-free or very mild consumers fourth products.

In particular, there is a desire for products that are also within the scope of the application can accidentally come into contact with the eyes, formulations based very to provide mild ingredients. It is problematic when it comes to funds that do not match pH of the tear fluid has a corresponding pH of approx. 7.3 and with very mild surfactants are formulated, adequate preservation based on also very mild preservatives, ideally approved for food ensure.

It has now been found that agents with significantly lower pH values agreed mild surfactants and certain active ingredients with preserving properties Let formulate so that for both skin and mucous membranes outstandingly tolerable products with excellent preservation.

The invention therefore relates to aqueous cosmetic compositions for the treatment of hair or skin on a mild surfactant base, which contain

• at least one ester of a hydroxy-substituted bicarbonic or tricarboxylic acid (A) with the general formula (I) as surfactant,
  in the
  XH or a -CH ₂ COOR group,
  YH or -OH is on the condition that when X is -CH ₂ COOR, Y is H,
  R, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which is selected from the group consisting of etherified ( C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) hydroxyalkyl polyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals are selected, under the condition that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z, and
• - an active ingredient with preservative properties (B) selected from Ben zoic acid, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids and ketocarboxylic acids, the Derivatives and their physiologically acceptable salts

with the proviso that the pH of the agent is in the range of 4-5.5.

The compounds of formula (I) are, for example, from the European patent EP-B1-0 258 814 and from the articles by N. Burns, Drug Cosmet. Ind. 160 (3), 42 (1997) and T. Verzotti et al., Cosmetic News XX-112, 29 (1997). This state of the However, technology does not provide any information on the agents according to the invention.

The preparation of the compounds of formula (I) is detailed in the European Patent specification EP-B1-0 258 814 described. Regarding the individual representative by The general formula (I) to be defined is expressly based on the content of this euro European patent specification, in particular the passage from page 2, line 43, to page 5, line 56, referenced.

In the context of the present invention, R, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} preferably alkali metal cations, in particular the sodium ion, alkaline earth metal cations, in particular the magnesium ion, and the ammonium ion.

Group 2 is preferably an etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharide. Group Z preferably contains glucose as the saccharide. C ₆ -C ₁₆ -alkyl groups in particular are used as alkyl groups, the choice of unbranched saturated groups being preferred. The alkyl groups can, however, also be mixtures which he will maintain when processing natural fats and oils. Mixtures consisting essentially of

• - C ₈ -C ₁₀ alkyl groups,
• - C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl groups or
• - C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl groups

can be preferred according to the invention. A mixture of is very particularly preferred Alkyl groups as obtained in the processing of coconut oil. Group Z contains 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units. According to a preferred In one embodiment, the group Z contains 2 to 6 glucose units. But it can also happen before be assigned to use groups Z with 1.2 to 3, in particular 1.3 to 2, glucose units. It should be borne in mind that mixtures always arise during synthesis, and these Numerical values from the stoichiometric ratio of the starting substances fatty alcohol and saccharide can be derived.

The compounds of formula (I) are derivatives of citric acid, tartaric acid or of malic acid. Such compounds, the derivatives of citric acid and especially the Represent tartaric acid are preferred according to the invention.

Commercial products manufactured by Cesalpinia under the names Eucarol® AGE- ET and Eucarol® AGE-EC have been found to be particularly suitable ver treads of the compounds of formula (I) have been proven.

The agents according to the invention can of course also have more than one surfactant (A) Contain formula (I).

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the compounds of formula (I) in Amounts from 0.5 to 8.0% by weight, particularly preferably in amounts from 1 to 5% by weight and in particular in amounts of about 2 to 3% by weight, based in each case on the total agent.

The agents according to the invention contain an active ingredient as a second mandatory component substance with preserving properties (B) selected from benzoic acid, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids and ketocarboxylic acids, their derivatives and their physio logically acceptable salts.  

Preferred active ingredients (B) are sorbic acid, laevulinic acid, benzoic acid and salicylic acid as well as the physiologically acceptable salts of these acids. As physiologically acceptable Salts are preferred the alkali metal salts, especially the sodium salt, the Alkaline earth metal salts, especially the calcium or magnesium salt, and the ammo nium salt used.

Preferred active ingredients B are salicylic acid, sorbic acid, laevulinic acid and their salts. A combination of two or more active ingredients (B) is from the Invention according to teaching. Combinations of salicylic acid or a salicylic acid salt, esp special sodium salicylate, and benzoic acid or a benzoic acid salt, in particular Sodium benzoate have proven to be extremely suitable according to the invention. The Combination sodium benzoate / salicylic acid is very particularly preferred.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use those active ingredients (B) which are also suitable for the con serving of food are permitted.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the active ingredients (B) in amounts of 0.1 up to 2.0% by weight, based on the total agent. The upper limit, ent speaking the legal regulations of some states, for certain connections also lie lower.

The agents according to the invention contain water as the third mandatory component.

Finally, the agents according to the invention have a pH in the range from 4 to 5.5 on.

Virtually any of them can be used for cosmetic purposes to adjust this pH bare acid or base can be used. In the event that a If acid is used, it may be preferred to use an acid from the group of edible acids such as acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, Use ascorbic acid and gluconic acid. In the context of the invention is the use  citric acid and lactic acid are particularly preferred.

According to the invention, the cosmetic agent is not subject to any restrictions. Coming in principle all types of funds on the market, in particular those above called preparations into consideration.

However, the mildness of the preparations according to the invention is mainly used in agents Treatment of hair and skin, especially for cleaning and care of the hair and of the skin, to wear.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the invention appropriate means around a hair cleanser (shampoo), a shower bath, a foam bath or a liquid soap. Shampoos and shower baths are preferred representatives of this Aus management form.

These agents can ent all known ingredients for such preparations ent hold.

The shampoos, shower baths, foam baths and liquid soaps according to the invention contain preferably at least one further cleaning component. This will in particular from the group of anionic, ampholytic, zwitterionic and nonionic Selected surfactants; but it can also be according to a further embodiment act cationic surfactants.

Suitable anionic surfactants in agents according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with about 10 to 22 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium, magnesium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts with 2 or 3 carbon atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear fatty acids with 10 to 22 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group with 10 to 22 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• - Amide ether carboxylates of the formula [R-NH (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n -CH ₂ -COO] _m Z, in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 2 to 29 C atoms, n stands for integers from 1 to 10, m for the numbers 1 or 2 and Z for a cation from the group of the alkali or alkaline earth metals,
• Acyl sarcosides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl taurides with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• - Monosulfonic succinate and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl esters with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• Linear alkanesulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
• Linear alpha-olefin sulfonates with 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
• - Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (-CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -SO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group with 10 to 18 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,
• - Sulphated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,
• - Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids with 12 to 24 carbon atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds gene according to DE-A-39 26 344,
• - esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols, the addition products of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide on fatty alcohols with 8 to Represent 22 carbon atoms,
• - Coconut monoglyceride sulfates.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and. Ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ethers groups in the molecule, as well as sulfosuccinic acid and dialkyl esters with 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid mono-alkyl polyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups.

Non-ionic surfactants contain z. B. a polyol group, a poly lyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such connections are, for example

• - Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms Atoms and on alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• - C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues and
• - Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened Ri castor oil.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides of the general formula RO- (S) _x . These connections are characterized by the following parameters.

The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear and ver be branches. Primary linear and methyl-branched aliphati in the 2-position are preferred leftovers. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using so-called "oxo alcohols" as starting materials, compounds predominate genes with an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

The alkyl polyglycosides which can be used according to the invention can, for example, only have one contain certain alkyl radical R. Usually, however, these connections are made  Made from natural fats and oils or mineral oils. In this case lie as alkyl radicals R mixtures corresponding to the starting compounds or accordingly the respective processing of these compounds.

Alkylpolyglycosides in which R

• essentially from C ₈ and C ₁₀ alkyl groups,
• essentially from C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - consists essentially of C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups.

Any mono- or oligosaccharides can be used as sugar building block S. Usually sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding Oligosaccharides used. Examples of such sugars are glucose, fructose and galac tose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, old rose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar components are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkyl polyglyhosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average 1, 1 to 5 Sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides with x values from 1.1 to 1.6 are preferred. All alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.4 are particularly preferred.

In addition to their surfactant action, the alkyl glycosides can also serve for fixation to improve the fragrance components on the hair. The specialist is therefore in the event that an effect of the perfume oil beyond the duration of the hair treatment the hair is desired, preferably to this class of substances as an additional ingredient of the preparations according to the invention.

The alkoxylated homologs of the alkyl polyglycosides mentioned can also be used according to the invention according to be used. These homologues can average up to 10 ethylene contain oxide and / or propylene oxide units per alkyl glycoside unit.  

The compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactants can in each case be act uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred in the manufacture these substances from natural vegetable or animal raw materials, so that one Mixtures of substances with different ones depending on the respective raw material Maintains alkyl chain lengths.

In the case of surfactants, the addition products of ethylene and / or propylene oxide with fat Alcohols or derivatives of these addition products can represent both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrowed homolo gene distribution can be used. Under "normal" homolog distribution Mixtures of homologues understood, which one in the implementation of fatty alcohol and Alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali receives metal alcoholates as catalysts. Narrowing homolog distributions will be on the other hand, if, for example, hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carbon acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates used as catalysts become. The use of products with a narrow homolog distribution can be to be preferred.

Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used, in particular as co-surfactants. Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) - or -SO ₃ ^(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl aminopropyl-N, N dimethylammonium glycinate, for example the coconut acylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl -3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylamino ethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants are also particularly suitable as co-surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts . Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycine, N-alkylpropionic acid, N-alkylaminobutyric acid, N-alkyliminodipropionic acid, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkyl aminopropionic acid and alkylaminoacetic acid each with about 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are the N-cocoalkyl aminopropionate, the cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and the C _12-18 acyl sarcosine.

Examples of those which can be used in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention Cationic surfactants are especially quaternary ammonium compounds. Are preferred Ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, dialkyldimethylammonium chloride and trialkylmethylammonium chloride, e.g. B. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, Di stearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryl dimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Can continue the very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, such as the Dialkylammonium methosulphates and sold under the trademark Stepantex® Methyl-hydroxyalkyl-dialkoyloxyalkyl-ammonium methosulfate and the corresponding Products from the Dehyquart® series, used as cationic surfactants. Further Cationic surfactants which can be used according to the invention are the quaternized ones Protein hydrolyzates.

The shampoos according to the invention preferably contain the further cleansing agents Components in amounts of 5.0 to 40 wt .-%, in particular from 5.0 to 20 wt .-%, be moved to the respective preparation.

Preparations of particularly great mildness are obtained if, in addition to the Ten siden (A) a zwitterionic surfactant, in particular of the betaine type, is used.  

Anionic and / or nonionic surfactants can then be added as further surfactants be added.

A combination of four consisting of

• Surfactants (A) according to formula (I),
• Zwitterionic surfactants, in particular of the betaine type,
• Anionic surfactants, in particular alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acid salts, and
• Nonionic surfactants, in particular of the alkylglycoside type,

has proven to be outstandingly suitable according to the invention.

The agents according to the invention preferably also contain at least one organic agent Thickener. Such thickeners are, for example, thickeners such as Agar agar, guar gum, alginates, cellulose ether, gelatin, pectins and / or xanthan Gum. Ethoxylated fatty alcohols, especially those with restricted homologues division, as for example as a commercial product under the name Arlypon®F (Henkel) are on the market, alkoxylated methyl glucoside esters, such as the commercial product Glucamate® DOE 120 (Amerchol), and ethoxylated propylene glycol esters, such as the commercial product Antil® 141 (Goldschmidt), may be preferred organic thickeners.

As already mentioned above, the agents according to the invention are subject to their Intended use no fundamental restrictions. So it can be with Haarbe agent for example around shampoos, hair rinses, hair treatments, permanent wave medium (well lotions, fixatives), hair colorants, hair tinting agents, hair fixatives, Trade hair sprays, hair lotions or hair tip fluids. According to the use The preparations can be used as solutions, emulsions, gels, creams, aerosols or lotions are formulated; they can remain on the hair, or after one short exposure time, which can be preferred, rinsed out again.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the inventive Agents that also serve hair treatment, at least one conditioning Active ingredient. As a result, the combability of the hair after the  Treatment improved. This is especially recommended for shampoos that are for the Target group "children" should be formulated to the known sensitivity of children to match when combing especially wet hair.

Cationic polymers are preferred as conditioning agents. These are usually polymers that have a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form an ammonium group.

Preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat® and Po lymer JR® are commercially available. The connections Celquat® H 100, Celquat® L 200 and Polymer JR®400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives.
• Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups,
• - Polymer Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze and their copolymers with esters and Amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The under the designations Mer quat®100 (poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat®550 (dimethyl diallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) commercially available products are examples of such cationic polymers.
• - Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoacrylic lats and methacrylate, such as vinyl pyrrole quaternized with diethyl sulfate don-dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers. Such connections are among the Designations Gafquat®734 and Gafquat®755 commercially available.
• - Vinylpyrrolidone-methoimidazolinium chloride copolymers, as described under the designation Luviquat® are offered,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol as well as those under the designations
• - polyquaternium 2,
• - Polyquaternium 17,
• - Polyquaternium 18 and
• - Polyquaternium 27

known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the main polymer chain.  

Ampho-polymers are also suitable as conditioning agents. Under the term amphoteric polymers are amphoteric polymers, ie polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, zwitterionic polymers which have quaternary Am in the molecule contain monium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and groups together those polymers which contain -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups. An example of an amphopolymer which can be used according to the invention is that under the name amphomer ® available acrylic resin, which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetrametlylbutyl) acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters. Likewise preferred amphopolymers are composed of unsaturated carboxylic acids (e.g. acrylic and methacrylic acid), cationically derivatized unsaturated carboxylic acids (e.g. acrylamidopropyl-trimethyl-axmmonium chloride) and optionally further ionic or nonionic monomers, as described, for example, in German Offenlegungsschrift 39 29 973 and the prior art cited therein can be found. Terpolymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, as are commercially available under the name Merquat®2001 N, are particularly preferred amphopolymers according to the invention.

The cationic or amphoteric polymers are in the invention Preparations preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total Preparation included.

Protein hydrolyzates, especially elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein, Almond protein, pea protein, potato protein, oat protein, corn protein and white zen protein hydrolyzates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized Protein hydrolyzates are also suitable as conditioning agents. You can Plant-based products may be preferred according to the invention.  

Silicone oils and silicone gums that are suitable as conditioning agents are in particular Dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as dimethylpolysiloxane and methyl phenylpolysiloxane, and their alkoxylated and quaternized analogues. Examples of such Silicones are those of Dow Corning under the designations DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 distributed products as well as the commercial product Fancorsil® LIM-1.

Cationic sili are also suitable according to the invention as conditioning agents oils such as the commercially available products Q2-7224 (manufacturer: Dow Corning; a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning® 929 emulsion (Containing a hydroxyl-amino-modified silicone, which can also be called amodimethicone is drawn), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil®-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydime thylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80). A suitable anionic silicone oil is the product Dow Corning®1784.

Alkylamidoamines, especially fatty acid amidoamines like the one under the name Tego Amid®S 18 available stearylamidopropyldimethylamine, stand out next to one good conditioning effect especially due to its good biodegradability.

Quaternary ester compounds are also very readily biodegradable "Esterquats", such as the Dialkyl-ammoni sold under the trademark Stepantex® ummethosulfate and the corresponding products of the Dehyquart® series.

Preferred vegetable oils and waxes as conditioning agents are jojoba oil, Sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil and peach seed oil. Jojoba oil and Orange oil is particularly preferred.

In particular for the formulation of very mild preparations, it has continued to be the case Proven partially if the amount of dissolved inorganic salts is less than 2 % By weight, in particular less than 0.5% by weight, is limited. It should also be noted that such salts are not only z. B. to adjust the viscosity, but can also be introduced by other active ingredients, in particular surfactants.  

Other common ingredients for the agents according to the invention are:

• - Non-ionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copo polymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidlon / vinyl acetate copolymers,
• - Anionic polymers, such as polyacrylic and polymethacrylic acids, their salts, their Copolymers with acrylic acid and methacrylic acid esters and amides and their deri vate obtained by cross-linking with polyfunctional agents, Polyoxycarboxylic acids, such as polyketo- and polyadehydocarboxylic acids and their salts, as well as polymers and copolymers of grotonic acid with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid such as vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinyl propio nat-crotonic acid copolymers,
• Structurants such as glucose and maleic acid,
• Hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, Egg lecithin and cephaline,
• - Other perfume oils, especially those with the scent of a fruit, such as white of apple, pear, strawberry, peach, apricot, pineapple, banana, cherry, kiwi, Mango, coconut, almond, grapefruit, passion fruit, tangerine and melon, or the Fragrance note of a luxury food, such as tobacco, cola, chewing gum, Guarana, chocolate, cocoa, vanilla, sarsaparilla, peppermint and rum.
• Dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• - Solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glyce rin, diethylene glycol and ethoxylated triglycerides,
• - dyes,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as climbazole, piroctone olamine and zinc omadine,
• - Active ingredients such as bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol, niacinmid, tocopherol and plants extracts,
• - light stabilizers,
• - consistency enhancers such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• - Fats and waxes, such as walrus, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins, esters, glyce ride and fatty alcohols,
• - fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,  
• Swelling and penetration substances such as PCA, glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, Carbonates, hydrogen carbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex or styrene / acrylamide copolymers,
• Pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate or PEG-3 distearate,
• - direct dyes
• - So-called coupler and developer components as oxidation dye prepro products,
• - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, Cy steamin, thio malic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• - oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, potassium bromate and sodium bromate,
• - blowing agents such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air and
• - antioxidants,
• - Bitter substances such as Denatonium Benzoate.

The invention also relates to the use of an agent according to one of the types Proverbs 1 to 10 for cleaning skin and hair.

The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail.  

Examples

Unless otherwise noted, all quantities are parts by weight.

1. Hair shampoos

¹ sodium lauryl ether sulfate (approx. 70% active substance in water; INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (HENKEL)
² N, N-Dimethyl-N-coconut amidopropyl ammonium acetobetaine (approx. 30% active substance in water; INCI name: Cocamidopropyl betaine) (CLARIANT)
³ N-coconut fatty acid amidoethyl-N-2-hydroxyethylglycine sodium salt (approx. 50% active substance in water; INCI name: Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate) (WITCO)
⁴ neutralized esters of alkyl polyglucose with tartaric acid (approx. 30% active substance in water; INCI name (provisional): sodium cocopolyglucose tartrate) (CESALPINIA)
⁵ neutralized esters of alkyl polyglucose with citric acid (approx. 30% active substance in water; INCI name (provisional): Sodium Cocopolyglucose Citrate) (CESALPINIA)
⁶ C _8-14 alkyl polyglucoside (approx. 52% active substance in water; INCI name: Coco Glucoside) (HENKEL)
⁷ C _12-14 fatty alcohol + 2.5 ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-2) (HENKEL)
⁸ coconut monoglyceride + 7.3 ethylene oxide (INCI name: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) (HENKEL)
⁹ D-panthenyl alcohol (75% active substance in VWater) (HOFFMANN LA-ROCHE)
¹⁰ quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose (INCI name: Polyquaternium-10) (AMERCHOL)
¹¹ dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer (approx. 9% active substance in water; INCI name: Polyquaternium-7) (MERCK)
¹² hydroxypropyl guar-guar hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (approx. 87% active substance in water; INCI name: hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) (RHONE POULENC)
¹³ benzyldiethyl ((2,6-xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate (2.5% active substance in water; INCI name: Aqua, Denatonium Benzoate) (MACFARLAN SMITH)
¹⁴ Hydroxy-4-methyl-6 (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone monoethanolamine salt (INCI name: Piroctone Olamine) (CLARIANT)
¹⁵ wheat protein hydrolyzate (approx. 18% active substance; INCI name: Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein) (DGF STOESS)
¹⁶ silicone emulsion (INCI name: Dimethiconol (and) TEA-Dodecylbenzene sulfonate) (CALGON)

Claims (11)

1. Aqueous cosmetic agent for the treatment of hair or skin on a mild surfactant base, characterized in that it contains:

• at least one ester of a hydroxy-substituted bicarbonic or tricarboxylic acid (A) with the general formula (I) as surfactant,
  in the
  XH or a -CH ₂ COOR group,
  YH or -OH is on the condition that when X is -CH ₂ COOR, Y is H,
  R, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z which comes from a polyhydroxylated organic compound which is selected from the group which etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) hydroxyalkyl polyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals are selected, on the condition that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z, and
• - An active ingredient with preservative properties (B), selected from benzoic acid, saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids and ketocarboxylic acids, their derivatives and their physiologically tolerable salts

with the proviso that the pH of the agent is in the range of 4 to 5.5. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the radical Z of the compounds of the formula (I) is a polyglucose (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) monoalkyl ether with 1 to 6 glucose units. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydroxy substituted bi- or tricarboxylic acid is selected from tartaric acid and lemons acid. 4. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the active ingredient (B) sorbic acid, laevulinic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid or a physiological is acceptable salt of these acids. 5. Composition according to claim 4, characterized in that as an active ingredient (B) Combination of salicylic acid or a salicylic acid salt on the one hand and Benzoic acid or a benzoic acid salt is contained on the other hand. 6. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is a Hair cleaner, a shower bath, a foam bath or a liquid soap. 7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it is at least contains another surfactant. 8. Composition according to claim 7, characterized in that the further surfactant is selected is made from anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants. 9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that it is a zwitterionic surfactant in combination with an anionic and / or a nonionic surfactant holds. 10. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is a contains organic thickener. 11. Use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for cleaning Skin or hair.