DE19830004A1 - Cosmetic composition with high radical protection factor - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises: (a) 1-10 wt. % of a product obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis of a white quebracho bark extract and comprising at least 90 wt. % proanthocyanidine oligomers and no more than 10 wt. % gallic acid; (b) 0.1-10 wt. % of a silkworm extract comprising cecropin, amino acids and vitamins; (c) 0.1-5 wt. % of a nonionic, cationic or anionic hydrogel; (d) 0.1-30 wt. % phospholipids; (e) water; (f) 0-4 wt. % of a yeast sonication product with a superoxide dismutase activity of at least 150 U/ml; and (g) 0-30 wt. % of a Malphigia punidifolia extract.

Description

The cosmetic active ingredient preparation according to the invention protects against the attack more effectively in a particularly effective manner Radicals on the skin both alone and in combination with other active ingredients.

As is known, free radicals, such as superoxide ions, Hydroxy radicals, oxides) for tissue degradation and thus for responsible for the appearance of aging of the skin. The Pro The cell membranes and lipids of the cell membranes are destroyed, the DNA damaged and a key substance of the skin, hyaluronic acid, will also be dismantled. Under normal biological conditions There is an equilibrium ratio between occurring free radicals and their containment by the body's own che mixed or enzymatic systems. By additional stress factor externally, such as aggressive atmosphere, tobacco smoke, ultra violet radiation, etc. become these body's defense systems overwhelmed and the balance in favor of free radicals le disturbed. There are signs of inflammation or aging the skin on, and a balance through cosmetic products is displayed.

There are already a number of products for this purpose  have been proposed, often vitamin mixtures with the Vitamins A, C and E contain or additives from Superoxidedis mutase or extracts from certain plant or animal creatures. Thus, from US-A-5,629,185 a kosmeti known composition, the ultrasonic digestion products of yeasts or other cell dispersions. From the WO 96/29048 discloses a cosmetic which has condensed degradation contains products of plant or animal origin.

Furthermore, there are a lot of publications, in the use of pure plant extracts for cosmetic Purpose is described, for example, in WO 97/45100 with a mixture of seven different extracts to combat Cellulite.

The search for more effective substances is a key element of cosmetic research. Still problematic with many of these products it is that against free radicals le effective substances their capture potential within the finished cosmetic composition often not permanently maintained th, d. H. Special formulations are required for this the effectiveness of radical scavengers is permanently maintained.

For another, it seems in the cosmetics industry the knowledge yet to have enforced that the Possibility exists to increase the antioxidant potential of the skin Measure (DE 43 28 639) and more recently with the help of a rela a simple procedure, the radical protection factor of a kosme to determine the preparation and thus targeted materials to include in such a preparation.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a kosmeti provide a particular active ingredient preparation, which is a particular has high radical protection potential.

Another object of the invention is the provision an active ingredient preparation that its radical protection potential holds over a long period of time.

Another object of the invention is the provision special cosmetic compositions containing this active contains substance preparation.  

According to the invention, the cosmetic preparation of active ingredient with high radical protection factor characterized by a Ge hold on

• a) by extraction of the bark of Quebraco blanco and subsequent enzymatic hydrolysis product, the at least 90% by weight of proanthocyanidin oligomers and at most 10 wt .-% gallic acid, wherein the content of (a), the in an active ingredient concentration of microcapsules bound to 2 wt .-%, is in the range of 1 to 10 wt .-%;
• b) a silkworm extract obtained by extraction, the peptide cecropins, amino acids and a vitamin mixture ent wherein the content of (b) ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight. % lies;
• c) a nonionic, cationic or anionic hydro- Gel or mixture of hydro-gels containing (c) im Range of 0.1 to 5 wt%;
• d) one or more phospholipids in a proportion of 0.1 to 30% by weight;
• e) water;
• f) at least 150 units of superoxide dismutase per ml containing ultrasonic digestion product of a yeast, wherein the content of the digestion product (e) in the range of 0 to 4 Wt .-% is; and
• g) an extract of Acerola fruit Malpiahia punidifolia, wherein the content (f) is in the range of 0 to 20% by weight; in each case based on the total weight of Wirkstoffzuberei tung.

The quebracho bark extract according to the invention or its Hydrolysis product contains a very high proportion Proanthocya nidines, which are condensed tannins. This in the form of Oligomeric compounds and the low proportion gallic acid shows in this combination and in Konzentra between 1 and 10% by weight of a clear radical protection effect that enhances the action of superoxide dismutase (SOD) exceeds it. The activity against free radicals was with which was compared by SOD and was at a 1 wt .-% solution  of the extract at 42% (SOD 4%), a 2.5% by weight solution at 83% (SOD 15%) and a 5% by weight solution at 100% (SOD 38%).

The extract (a) preferably contains at least 95% by weight. Proanthocyanidin oligomers and at most 5% by weight of gallic acid, in particular at least 99% by weight of proanthocyanidin oligomers and at most 1% by weight of gallic acid.

The content of (a) is 1 to 10 wt .-%, wherein the Active substance from the Quebrachorinde enclosed in microcapsules is sen. The microcapsules consist for. From petrolatum, Natri umtristearat, agar, phenonip and water.

The silkworm extract (b) is extracted by extraction of the Silkworm (Bombyx mori) is obtained with propylene glycol and contains vitamins, amino acids and the peptide Cecropine, the has a special antibacterial activity. In the Recent years have seen a lot of research on the Hemolymph and the cutural matrix of the silk worm, that not only antibacterial peptides but also inhibition in particular fungal proteases contained therein th are. Furthermore, such extracts show oxygen ver needing properties, thereby increasing cell metabolism activate, and they have moisture-retaining properties, a clear healing effect on skin lesions by shortening the healing time as well as a smoothing effect on the skin.

The extract (b) preferably contains the amino acids Asper tainic acid, asparagine, threonine, serine, glutamic acid, proline, Glycine, alanine, valine, cysteine, methionine, isoleucine, leucine, Tyrosine, phenylalanine, lysine, histidine, arginine.

Further preferably, the extract contains (b) a vitamin mixture with the vitamins B ₁ , B ₂ , B ₅ , B ₆ , B ₈ , B ₉ , B ₁₂ , PP, A, E and C.

The components (a) and (b) are preferably in Kon concentrations of 0.1 to 3 wt .-% in the Wirkstoffzube preparation.

The gel according to the invention, which also contains a mixture may be different gels, is a hydrogel that is water  soluble at temperatures greater than about 40 to 50 ° C and the gel structure at lower temperatures between 10 and forms 30 ° C. Examples of such gels are not ionic polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone modified corn starch and hydroxyethyl cellulose; cationic Polymers such as cationic guar, cationic cellulose, syn thetic cationic polymers; or gels like gelatin, Carra geenan, bentonite gels, copolymer gels such as carbomer.

The phospholipids present invention are out selects phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, Phos phatidylinositol, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidic acid and lyso lecithins and mixtures thereof. Well-known products are included For example, Phoslipon®. The proportion of phospholipids is in Range of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 20 wt .-%.

The components (a) and (b) of the preparation of active compound form probably association-like with the phospholipids (d) Liche structures of different molecules, in turn, in the forming structure of the gel (c) + (e) in substantially gleichmä ßiger distribution be attached and here in total as Be called "association complex". Integrated in it NEN also shares of SOD-containing Hefeaufschlußproduktes and of the acerola extract as well as certain plant extracts.

The preparation of active compound in the form of the association complex xes may additionally contain a mixture of vitamins A, B and C as well additionally containing SOD and / or extracts of acerola fruits However, vitamins and other antioxidants can also be used tion agent in the overall composition of the cosmetic Be prepared.

The active ingredient preparation according to the invention, in addition to the Basic Constituents (a) to (e) continue to be various plants zine extracts, such as citrus peel or leaf extracts (Citrus bigaradia, Citrus hystrix, Citrus aurantifolia, Citro furtunella microcarpa, Citrus aurantium, Citrus reticulata), Bitter orange extract (peel or fruit), cherry extract of Spanish Cherry Cherry, Kiwi Extract (Actinidia chinensis), Papaya fruit extract (Caricae papayae), tea extract [leaves  of green or black tea, leaves or bark of New Jersey tea (Ceanthus velutinas)], coffee bean extract (INCI) Name: Coffee Bean Extract; of green or roasted beans), Prunus extract (Prunus armeniaca, Prunus dulcis, Prunus persi ca, Prunus domestica, Prunus spinosa, Prunus serotina, Prunus virginiana), extracts of the bark of the Mexican skin tree (Mimosa tenuiflora), Angelica root extract (Angelica archan gelica). Such plant extracts are commercially available Lich, z. From DRAGOCO, Holzminden, Germany.

The content of these plant extracts can be between 0 and 20 wt .-%, with mixtures of these extracts and Mixtures with components (f) and (g) of Wirkstoffzube may be included.

The addition of the above plant extracts can the Radical protection factor depending on the plant and according to law increase the amount several times, presumably synergi Static interactions occur whose connections are still could not be fully clarified.

To the antioxidants usable in the invention Vitamins include vitamins such as vitamin C and derivatives thereof For example, ascorbyl acetates, phosphates and palmitates; Vit amine A and derivatives thereof; Folic acid and its derivatives, Vit amine E and its derivatives, such as tocopheryl acetate; Flavones or flavonoids; Amino acids such as histidine, glycine, tyrosine, tryp tophan and derivatives thereof; Carotenoids and carotenes, such as. B. α-carotene, β-carotene; Uric acid and derivatives thereof; α-Hydrox acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid; stilbenes and their derivative, etc.

Vitamins can also be mixed with enzymes as another Share in the preparation of active ingredient or in the cosmetic Composition may be included in addition to the preparation of active ingredient. The content can be at least 0.5 wt .-% of a mixture of Enzy and vitamins at least 150 units / ml (U / ml) contains superoxide dismutase (SOD).

The mixture of enzymes and vitamins used is preferably a digestion product of a yeast prepared by sonication, the digestion product containing SOD, protease, vitamin B ₂ , vitamin B ₆ , vitamin B ₁₂ , vitamin D ₂ and vitamin E. Preferably, it contains at least 150 U / ml SOD, protease and vitamins B and D, with the SOD: protease ratio as international units being at least in the range from 3: 1 to 8: 1.

Particularly advantageous for the production of the enzyme / Vitamin mixture is a digestion method using Ultra sound, which is described in DE 42 41 154 C1 and in which in an ultrasonic flow cell, a cell dispersion or Suspension is passed through a sound room, in which the sonotrode to half to two-thirds of their length in the Durchflußzelle protrudes and into the medium to be sonicated dips. The sonotrode has an angle of 80.5 to 88.5 °, and the ratio of the immersion length of the sonotrode in mm to the sonication volume in ml is set to a value of 1: 1.1 set to 1: 20. The solid content in the beschal The medium is in the range from 1: 0.02 to 1: 2.2 (in% by weight).

As a cell dispersion, yeasts, such as baker's yeast, brew yeast, wine yeast and specially treated yeasts, such. B. SOD-enriched yeasts are used. An advantageous To be used cell dispersion contains z. B. Saccharomyces cere visiae.

The addition of z. B. 1 wt .-% of such yeast digestion product from baker's yeast as an optional part of the asso zierungskomplexes can the already high level of radical protection factor of z. For example, increase 1620 by about 2 times to 3,150 Radical protection factor will be further detailed below made.

The preparation of active compound in the form of the association complex xes can be in addition to the above components as well an extract of acerola fruits (Malpicihia punidifolia) contain. Acerola is a small in West India, in the north South America, Central America, Florida and Texas teter tree and rich in vitamin C and other active ingredients such as  Vitamin A, thiamine, riboflavin and niacin, together with various other constituents, such as phosphorus, iron, Calcium can develop a complex effect. The watery Acerola extract is usually a powdered product in front.

As a further active ingredient in the overall composition of the cosmetic preparation and in addition to the above-mentioned active ingredient complex, in a particularly preferred embodiment it may contain one or more of the following constituents:

• 1. Extracts or Treated Free Radical Extracts denden or moisture-binding plants selected under Acerola fruits (Malpighia punidifolia), Camellia oleifera, Colunsonia canadensis and Hibiscus sabdariffa;
• 2. Extracts or Treated Free Radical Extracts denden or moisture-binding algae selected under Omegaplankton with a high proportion of cerebroside stimulants, Micro algae of the genus Chlorella and with byssus (mussel egg de) associated macro-algae of the genus Ulva as biotechnolo gical protein fraction and subsequent association with Dextrin, the product being in admixture with peptide derivatives derived from α-MSH and associated with xanthine are;
• 3. natural and synthetic polymers selected from Chitosanglycolate, condensation products of milk powder and activated fatty acids;
• 4. hard magnetic single crystals of barium hexaferrite with a coercive field strength of 3000-5000 Oe and a grain size of 50-1200 nm incorporated in or mixed with asymmetri lamellar aggregates of phospholipids and fluorocarbo NEN; such as
• 5. other active ingredients and excipients selected from hyaluron Acid, Omega CH Activator, Behentrimonium Chloride, Passions flower oil as well as modified kaolin.

The said modified kaolin is contained according to WO 96/17588 and is modified with spherical TiO ₂ or SiO ₂ particles having a particle size <5 μm, the spherical particles having a proportion of the kaolin mixture of 0.5 to 10% by weight. to have. The preparation is characterized by a very soft skin feeling and an additional anti-inflammatory efficacy. The modified kaolin may have a content of 0.1 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total amount of the cosmetic.

The said hard magnetic particles for promoting Circulation can be those described in WO 95/03061 are described or those with smaller particle sizes and in mixture with asymmetric lamellar aggregates, up to are loaded with oxygen to the saturation pressure, wherein the Proportion of magnetic particles, based on the total composition tion of the cosmetic in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt .-% are can.

The mentioned asymmetric lamellar aggregates are from WO 94/00098 known and consist of phospholipids and with Oxygen-loaded fluorocarbon or fluorocarbon mixture. The Content of fluorocarbon is in the range of 0.2 to 100% Ge weight / volume, wherein the phospholipid is a phosphatidylcho Lingage of more than 30 to 99% by weight, and where These aggregates a skin penetration depending on the have critical solubility temperature of the fluorocarbons.

The aggregates can also additionally only with sow loaded in the cosmetic preparation. The Content may be between 2.5 and 20 wt .-%, based on the overall composition of the cosmetic.

These aggregates are oxygen carriers and allow one Penetration of oxygen into the skin and thus a better Supply the skin with oxygen.

The preparation according to the invention also contains cosmeti cal excipients and carriers, as they are usually in such Preparations are used, for. As water, glycerol, propy lenglycol, preservatives, dyes, pigments with coloring effect, thickener, softening substance zen, moisturizing substances, fragrances, alcohols, polyols, Electrolytes, polar and nonpolar oils, polymers, copolymers, Emulsifiers, waxes, stabilizers, colored plant extracts  te, such as fat-soluble gardenia extract, fat-soluble carot extract, paprika LS extract, β-carotene, Lithospermum ex and active deodorants.

It is also advantageous to Zu the invention corresponding water- and / or oil-soluble UVA or UVB filters or both. To advantageous oil UVB filters include 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives such as 4- (dimethylamino) -benzoic acid- (2-ethylhexyl) ester; Ester of Cinnamic acid such as 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, Benzophenone derivatives such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; 3 Benzylidene camphor derivatives such as 3-benzylidene camphor.

Water-soluble UVB filters are z. B. sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone or of 3-benzylidene camphor or salts such as the Na or K salt of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid.

UVA filters include dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 1- Phenyl-4- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.

Preferred as a sunscreen inorganic pigments are based on metal oxides, such as TiO ₂ , SiO ₂ , ZnO, Fe ₂ O ₃ , ZrO ₂ , Mno, Al ₂ O ₃ , which can also be used in a mixture with each other or with organic filters.

Particularly preferred inorganic pigments are agglomerated substrates of TiO ₂ and / or ZnO which have a content of spherical and porous SiO ₂ particles; wherein the SiO ₂ particles have a particle size in the range of 0.05 .mu.m to 1.5 .mu.m, and in addition to the SiO ₂ particles, other inorganic particulate materials having a spherical structure are present, wherein the spherical SiO ₂ particles with the other anorgani rule Substances defined agglomerates having a particle size in the range of 0.06 microns to 5 microns form.

Particularly advantageously to be used SiO ₂ particles are highly monodisperse, non-porous, spherical SiO ₂ particles according to DE 36 16 133, which are produced by hydrolytic polycondensation of tetraalkoxysilane in aqueous-alcoholic-ammoniacal medium, wherein a sol of primary particles is produced and then by a continuous, controlled in accordance with the Abreagierens metered addition of tetraalkoxysilane brings the resulting SiO ₂ particles to the desired particle size of about 0.05 to 10 microns.

Pigments, pigment mixtures or powders with pigment-like Effect, including those with pearlescent effect to understand For example, mica, Kaolin, talc, mica-titania, mica-titania-iron oxide, bismuth oxychloride, nylon beads, ceramic beads, expanded and unexpanded synthetic polymer powders, powdered natural organic compounds such as ground Solid algae, encapsulated and unencapsulated cereal starches as well Mica titanium oxide organic dye.

As a softening agent can usually a variety of compounds such as stearyl alcohol, Gly cerylmonoricinoleate, glyceryl monostearate, propane-1,2-diol, Butane-1,3-diol, cetyl alcohol, isopropyl isostearate, stearic acid re, isobutyl palmitate, oleyl alcohol, isopropyl laurate, decylols at, octadecan-2-ol, isocetyl alcohol, cetyl palmitate, silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxane, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Polyethylene glycol, lanolin, cocoa butter, vegetable oils like Corn oil, cottonseed oil, olive oil, mineral oils, butylmy ristate, palmitic acid etc.

Cosmetic compositions with the active compound preparation according to the invention may be present as O / W or W / O emulsions. Suitable emulsifiers for O / W emulsions are, for example, adducts of 2-30 moles of ethylene oxide with linear C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohols, with C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids and with C ₈ -C ₁₅ -alkylphenols; C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of investment products of 1-30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol;
Glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids; Polyol and polyglycerol esters; Addition products of ethylene oxide with castor oil; Betaines such as cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate or Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethyl- carboxymethylglycinat (CTFA: Cocamidopropyl Betaine) and ampholytic surfactants.

Suitable emulsifiers for O / W emulsions are, for example, adducts of 2-15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil; Esters of C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), polyglucosides (eg cellulose); polyalkylene glycols; Lanolin alcohol; Copolymers of polysiloxane-polyalkylpolyethers.

The cosmetic active ingredient preparation according to the invention protects in a particularly effective manner against the attack of free radicals on the skin both alone and in combination with other active ingredients. It has a high radical protection factor between 100 and 3500 × 10 ¹⁴ radicals / mg.

The radical protection factor (RPF) determines the activity a substance for binding free radicals to one Test substance. This test substance consists of a very reak tionable, semi-stable radical, with all known Antioxidants reacts. To include such radicals Nitroxides, such as Proxo (2,2,5,5-tetramethyl-1-dihydropyrroline oxy-nitroxide), tempol (2,2,6,6-tetramethyl-1-piperidinoxy-4- ol-nitroxide), DTBN (di-tert-butyl-nitroxide or preferably DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl).

The measurement of the RPF takes place in such a way that the signal amplitude of the test radical is measured by electron spin resonance (ESR / EPR) before and after mixing with an antioxidant and from which the RPF is calculated. RPF is known for a number of standard antioxidants, for all-trans retinol at 827, all-trans retinol acetate at 196; for DL-α-tocopherol at 41200 and for α-tocopherol acetate at 48, respectively × 10 ¹⁴ radicals / mg.

The cosmetic active ingredient preparation according to the invention, when, as an "association complex" of components (a) to (e) has at a concentration of (a) and (b) each of 10 wt% alone has an RPF of 1255 and is thus very high compared to usual active ingredients in Kosmetikformulie ments with declared radical scavengers; the values of about 4 to reach 40. The actual active ingredients are in (a) and (b) only in a concentration of at most 2% by weight available.  

Under "high radical protection factor" is present in the The invention understood a value of 100 or higher, preferably way 1000 or higher. This value can be invented for certain Combinations of plant extracts according to the invention and the egg increased to 10 000 and higher become.

The exact measuring method for the radical protection factor is described by Herrling, Groth, Fuchs and Zastrow in Conferences Materials "Modern Challenges To The Cosmetic Formula" 5.5.-7-5.97, Dusseldorf, pp. 150-155, Verlag f. chem. Ind. 1997. Starting from the known concentration of the test substance (here: DPPH) or the number of its free radicals (radicals per ml), a signal amplitude S _{1 is} measured by means of an ESR spectrometer. The test radical, like the antioxidant, is dissolved in a (eg 0.1 M) water / alcohol solution. Then the signal amplitude S _{2 of} the antioxidant is measured. The normalized difference between the two signal amplitudes is the reduction factor RF.

RF = (S ₁ -S ₂ ) / S ₁

The result of the radical reduction of the test substance RC x RF is normalized to the amount of product input PI (mg / ml). Here, RC is the amount of the test substance, ie the known number of radicals of the test substance. The radical protection factor is calculated according to the following equation

The result is
RPF = N × 104 [radicals per mg],
where N is a positive real number, and the RPF can be shortened to the numerical value of N in a simplified manner.

The radical protection factor can be determined by means of a handy and very simply constructed ESR spectrometer (GALENUS GmbH, Berlin, Germany) and is a new size  for the labeling of cosmetic products with regard to their Ability to bind free radicals. The procedure is a in In vitro method, in which no individual properties of the cosmetic user to influence the antioxidants.

Further advantageous effects of products with the active compound preparation according to the invention together with others Active substances and carriers are a long-lasting improvement the overall condition of the skin, delaying the aging process of the skin, lasting improved moisturizing and smoothness the skin. The above-described particularly advantageous Embodiment with an additional algae-peptide product and hard-magnetic barium hexaferrite single crystals especially allergy-reduced risk after allergies and the matological testing.

The use of the cosmetic Präpa invention rates can be z. B. take place in sun creams, sun gels, after sun products, day creams, night creams, masks, Körperlotio cleansing milk, make-up's, lipsticks, eye cosmetics, Hair masks, hair conditioners, hair shampoos, shower gels, shower oils, bath oils and other common products. The manufacturer The development of such products takes place in a way that suits them One skilled in the art. It can with choice appropriate carriers also corresponding pharmaceutical Zuberei be produced.

The invention further relates to a cosmetic Preparation containing a content of plant extracts, which are selected from the group consisting of Citrus-Ex Trakt, bitter orange extract, cherry extract of the Spanish Cherry cherry, papaya extract, tea extract, coffee beans ex extract, prunus extract, skin tree extract, angelica extract and Mixtures thereof, as already defined in more detail above with a proportion of 0.5 to 40 wt .-%, and 99.5 to 60 wt .-% further active ingredients or carriers or Gemi of active substances and excipients, in each case based on the Total composition. As agents and carriers, the previously mentioned substances are used.  

The invention will be explained in more detail by examples be explained. All information is given in weight percent, unless otherwise stated.

Production of the active substance complex

For the preparation of the gel base was gel powder, such as Carbomer, added to water, homogenized therein and then ßend z. B. neutralized with triethanolamine. After that took place an addition of ethanol and glycerin for better incorporation speed, the resulting mixture was stirred well.

To this gel base was added a mixture of phospholipids (Phoslipon®), Quebraco extract and silkworm extract given and at a temperature of at most 45 ° C with it mixed. This was followed by the addition of another Part of the above gel or a second gel, such as Guar Pro pyltriammonium chloride, which works well with the total mixture However, elevated temperature was stirred below 45 ° C. Man he held in this way the Wirkstoffzuberei invention tung.

In the case where the preparation of active compound further Be constituents, such as yeast digestion product, acerola extract or Extracts of tea, coffee, kiwi, citrus, cherry, papaya or Skin tree contained, this extract of phospholipidmi added and then mixed with the gel.

example 1 vanishing cream

AL = L <phase A Carbomer 0.2 glycerin 2.0 propylene glycol 1.0 least. water q.s. ad 100 AL = L <phase B C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl cetyl alcohol 3.7 Stearath 0.5 jojoba oil 1.0 AL = L <phase C triethanolamine 0.2 AL = L <phase D Active substance complex with (a) - (e) 3.5 Perfume 0.5 preservative 0.3

Phases A and B were stirred at 65 ± 2 ° C warms and phase B homogenized in phase A. After that the addition of phase C and corresponding homogeneity was carried out Sieren. Then it was cooled with stirring to about 35 ° C and Phase D added with thorough mixing. The knit Substance complex contained 1.0% of baker's yeast and the Ultra sound method of DE 42 41 154 C1 obtained SOD-containing Enzyme / vitamin product.

The added drug complex contained 1% dry Gel, 7% phospholipids, 2% Quebraco extract, 1% silkworms Extract, 1% SOD from yeast digestion product. The radical protection factor of the total composition was 1925.

Example 2 Special cream

AL = L <phase A glycerin 3.0 least. water q.s. ad 100 AL = L <phase B vaseline 22.5 jojoba oil 5.0 AL = L <phase C Active substance complex with (a) - (f) 5.5 Asymmetric lamellar aggregates (AOCS) according to Example 2 of WO 94/00109 10.5 AOCS with Ba hexaferrite single crystals according to Example 1 of WO 95/03061 2.0 Modified kaolin according to Example 1 of 0.3 WO 96/17588

Phases A and B were stirred at 65 ± 2 ° C warms and phase B homogenized in phase A. After that was cooled with stirring to about 35 ° C and the phase C added with thorough mixing.

The active ingredient complex contained 1.0% from wine yeast and after the ultrasonic method of DE 42 41 154 C1 obtained SOD-hal  enzyme / vitamin product plus 0.5% vitamin E and 0.5% of vitamin C. As the basic ingredients of Wirkstoffkom plexes were 0.5% dry gel, 10% phospholipids, 1% Quebraco Extract, 2% Silkworm Extract. The radical Protection factor of the total composition was 2120.

Example 3 Sonnengel

AL = L <phase A Carbomer 1.5 glycerin 3.0 propylene glycol 2.5 least. water q.s. ad 100 AL = L <phase B triethanolamine 1.5 AL = L <phase C Peptide preparation MAP-X® according to PCT / DE97 / 02941 1.0 ZnO 2.0 TiO ₂ 5.0 SiO ₂ 1.0 Shellac (20% aqueous solution) 1.0 AL = L <phase D Active substance complex with (a) - (f) 3.5 AL = L <phase E Perfume 0.5 preservative 0.3

The phase A was heated with stirring to 60 ± 2 ° C and homogenized and cooled to 45 ° C. Phase B was in homogenized phase A. After cooling to about 40 ° C the addition of phase C and good homogenization took place. Then was cooled with stirring to about 35 ° C and the phases D and E with thorough mixing and stirring set.

The active ingredient complex contained 1.0% from brewer's yeast and after the ultrasonic method of DE 42 41 154 C1 obtained SOD-hal enzyme / vitamin product plus 0.5% each Vitamin E, Vitamin C and Vitamin A. As basic ingredients of the  Complex of active ingredients contained 0.15% dry gel, 20% Phospholipids, 5% Quebraco Extract, 3% Silkworm Extract. The radical protection factor of the total composition was 3050.

Example 4 Day cream

It was a composition according to Example 1 herge with the drug complex instead of 1% SOD Yeast digest 20% tea extract of black tea contained. The Radical protection factor was 3100.

Example 5 Suncream

It was a composition according to Example 1 Herge provides, wherein in phase A additionally 3% TiO ₂ and 7.5% Benzophe none-3 were included. The drug complex contained instead of 1% SOD from yeast digestion 5% coffee bean extract of roasted coffee beans and 2% kiwi extract. The radical protection factor was 3200.

Example 6 Day cream

It was a composition according to Example 1 Herge provides, in addition, in phase A 1% TiO ₂ and 0.5% ZnO were included. Instead of 1% SOD from yeast digestion, the drug complex contained 1% tea extract of green tea, 2% coffee bean extract of green coffee beans, 1% vitamin C and 1% vitamin E (tocopherol acetate). The radical protection factor was 5600.

Example 7 Comparative example

The following constituents of an active substance complex were mixed together:

0.15% guar propyl triammonium chloride (gel)
20% phospholipids
0.1% triethanolamine
79.75% water.

The measured radical protection factor was zero.

Claims (12)

1. Cosmetic preparation with high radical protection factor, characterized by a content of

• a) a product obtained by extraction of the bark of Quebraco blanco and subsequent enzymatic hydrolysis containing at least 90% by weight of proanthocyanidin oligomers and at most 10% by weight of gallic acid, the content of (a) being that of a microcapsule present active ingredient concentration of 2 wt .-% is present, in the range of 1 to 10 wt .-%;
• b) a silkworm extract obtained by extraction, which contains the peptide cecropins, amino acids and a vitamin mixture, wherein the content of (b) is in the range of 0.1 to 10% by weight;
• c) a nonionic, cationic or anionic hydrogel or mixture of hydrogels containing (c) in the range of 0.1 to 5% by weight;
• d) one or more phospholipids in a proportion of 0.1 to 30 wt .-%;
• e) water;
• f) an ultrasonic disruption product of a yeast containing at least 150 units of superoxide dismutase per ml, the content of the digestion product (e) being in the range from 0 to 4% by weight; and
• g) an extract of Acerola fruit Malpighia punidifolia, wherein the content (f) is in the range of 0 to 30 wt .-%; in each case based on the total weight of Wirkstoffbeanerei tion.

2. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized by a radical protection factor in the range of 100 to 3500, measured by determining the number of free radicals of a solution of a test substance (S ₁ ) by means of electron spin resonance (ESR) in comparison with the ESR measurement result of the cosmetic Wirkstoffzube preparation according to the relation RPF = (RC × RF) / PI where RF = (S ₁ -S ₂ ) / S ₁ ; RC = concentration of the test substance (radicals / ml); PI = concentration of active ingredient preparation (mg / ml). 3. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract (a) at least 99% by weight of proanthocyanidin oligomers and at most 1% by weight of gallic acid. 4. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the amino acids aspartic acid, asparagine, contained in (b), Threonine, serine, glutamic acid, proline, glycine, alanine, valine, Cysteine, methionine, isoleucine, leucine, tyrosine, phenylalanine, Lysine, histidine, arginine include. 5. A preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that in (b) containing vitamin mixture comprising the vitamins B ₁ , B ₂ , B ₅ , B ₆ , B ₈ , B ₉ , B ₁₂ , PP, A, E and C. 6. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation of active compound additionally a mixture of vitamins A, E and C or the vitamins individually. 7. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that it exists as an association complex between the phospholipids (d) which partially includes components (a) and (b) and the gel (c) with the water (e). 8. A preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the active compound preparation is present in a cosmetic composition which also contains one or more of the following constituents:

• 1. Extracts or Treated Free Radical Extracts are denden or moisture-binding
  • 1. (1.1) plants selected from acerola fruits (Malpighia punidifolia), Camellia oleifera, Colunsonia canadensis and Hibiscus sabdariffa, or
  • 2. (1.2) Algae selected from omega-paplanktone with a high proportion of cerebroside-containing stimulants, micro-algae of the genus Chlorella and byssus (mussel silk) associated macro-algae of the genus Ulva as a biotechnological protein fraction and following association with dextrin, the product is in the mixture with peptide derivatives derived from α-MSH and associated with xanthine;
• 2. Hefeaufschlußprodukte, selected from baker's yeast, brewer's yeast and wine yeast and prepared after gentle sonication of the aqueous yeasts;
• 3. natural and synthetic polymers selected from chitosan glycolate, condensation products of milk powder and activated fatty acids;
• 4. hard magnetic single crystals of barium hexaferrite with a coercive field strength of 3000-5000 Oe and a grain size of 50-1200 nm embedded in or mixed with asymmetric rule lamellar aggregates of phospholipids and Fluorcarbo NEN; and
• 5. other active substances selected from chitosanglycolate, hyaluronic acid, omega CH activator, behentrimonium chloride; Passionflower oil, as well as carriers.

9. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that the components (a) and (b) in concentrations of each 0.1 to 3 wt .-% in the preparation of active ingredient. 10. Preparation according to claim 1 or 9, characterized gekennzeich net, that they additionally contain a content of 0.1 to 20 wt .-% Having plant extracts selected from the group; best from citrus peel or leaf extracts (Citrus bigara slide; Citrus hystrix, Citrus aurantifolia, Citrofurtunella microcarpa, Citrus aurantium, Citrus reticulata), Bitter oran ge extract (peel or fruit), cherry extract of the Spanish Cherry cherry, kiwi extract (Actinidia chinensis), papaya  fruit extract (Caricae papayae), tea extract [leaves of green or black tea; Leaves or bark of New Jersey Tea (Ceanthus velutinas)]; Coffee Bean Extract (INCI name: Coffee bean extract; of green or roasted beans), Prunus extract (Prunus armeniaca, Prunus dulcis, Prunus persi ca, Prunus domestica, Prunus spinosa, Prunus serotina, Prunus virginiana), extracts of the bark of the Mexican skin tree (Mimosa tenuiflora), Angelica root extract (Angelica archan gelica). 11. Cosmetic preparation; characterized by a salary from 0.5 to 40% by weight of plant extracts selected from Group consisting of citrus peel or leaf extracts (Citrus bigaradia, Citrus hystrix, Citrus aurantifolia, Citro furtunella microcarpa, Citrus aurantium, Citrus reticulata), Bitter orange extract (peel or fruit), cherry extract of Spanish Cherry Cherry, Kiwi Extract (Actinidia chinensis), Papaya fruit extract (Caricae papayae), tea extract [leaves of green or black tea, leaves or bark of New Jersey tea (Ceanthus velutinas)], coffee bean extract (INCI) Name: Coffee Bean Extract; of green or roasted beans), Prunus extract (Prunus armeniaca, Prunus dulcis, Prunus persi ca, Prunus domestica, Prunus spinosa, Prunus serotina, Prunus virginiana), extracts of the bark of the Mexican skin tree (Mimosa tenuiflora), Angelica root extract (Angelica archan gelica) and 99, 5 to 60 wt .-% carriers or other active ingredients and Carriers. 12. Use of the cosmetic active ingredient preparation with high Radical protection factor according to one of claims 1 to 11 together with other cosmetic substances, such as other active substances, Excipients and carriers in cosmetic preparations like creams, gels, lotions, masks, make-up's, shampoos, Pens, oils, mascara and appropriate sunscreen preparation guess.