DE10237458A1 - Use of carnosine in e.g. cosmetic or dermatological formulations with deodorant to condense 2-nonenal and similar aldehydes to difficultly volatile and olfactorally inconspicuous compounds - Google Patents

Abstract

Use is claimed of carnosine and/or similar peptides in the production of cosmetic and/or dermatological formulations to condense 2-nonenal and similar aldehydes to difficultly volatile and olfactorally inconspicuous compounds. Independent claims are also included for the use of carnosine and/or similar peptides in the production of cosmetic and/or dermatological formulations to (1) reduce body odors, especially for humans over 40; (2) reduce the age-related progressive inhibition of proteasomes caused, inter alia, by increased formation of 2-nonenal and similar compounds; and (3) limit dysregulation of corneal differentiation brought about by condensation of carnosine and/or similar peptides with 2-nonenal and similar aldehydes which results in improved peeling of the uppermost skin layers.

Description

Smell is one of the five senses of the human. Odorants, volatile substances, are thereby bound by olfactory receptors in the nasal mucosa. Over a Signal cascade, the stimulus is transferred to the nerve cells and passed on to the brain. This is where the actual sense of smell arises. pleasant odors are from unpleasant smells distinguished.

This is often the case with older people Sensation of unpleasant body odor. This smell is often perceived as greasy or greasy.

Object of the present invention was to substances and / or cosmetic / dermatological formulations to find that reduce the unpleasant smell.

The human body odor does not remain unchanged throughout life. Babies smell different from young people and they in turn smell different from older people. Scientific studies (Haze et. Al .; 2-Nonenal Newly Found in Human Body Odor Tends to Increase with Aging; J. Invest. Dermatol. 116; 2000; 520-524) in 26 to 75 year-old subjects on the composition of the human Body odor shows that there were differences between the substances investigated, especially in the unsaturated aldehyde, 2-nonenal. This compound was detectable in many samples in the age group over 40 years of age, while this connection could not be detected in the test group under 40 years of age. 2-Nonenal has a greasy and greasy smell. This compound is created in various oxidative processes from ω7-unsaturated fatty acids. The double bond of the unsaturated fatty acid is triggered by peroxidative cleavage caused by a lack of antioxidants, photosensitized oxidation or Fe ²⁺ -catalyzed oxidation. As a result of further oxidation and rearrangement reactions, 2-nonenal is formed.

The content of ω7 fatty acid on human skin also increases with age compared to that of ω10-unsaturated fatty acids to. The unsaturated Aldehyde 2-nonenal is used as the main trigger for the uncomfortable Smell in older People (Haze et. Al .; 2-Nonenal Newly Found in Human Body Odor Tends to Increase with Aging; J. Invest. Dermatol. 116; 2000; 520-524).

4-Hydroxy-2-nonenal, a compound similar to 2-nonenal, also arises from oxidative stress, but especially in the case of Fe ²⁺ -catalyzed oxidations due to the peroxidation of cellular membrane lipids. Studies (Okada, K. et. Al .; 4-Hydroxy-2-nonenal mediated Impairment of Intracellular Proteolysis during Oxidative Stress; The Journal of Biologiocal Chemistry 274; 1999; 23787-23793) with 4-Hydroxy-2-nonenal show that this compound modifies cell proteins by attachment; this also includes proteasome enzymes. Proteasomes have an important function in the degradation of aberrant proteins.

By reaction with 4-hydroxy-2-nonenal the proteasomes temporarily lose their function.

Also in the skin gets oxidative Stress, followed by the formation of reactive oxygen radicals and different peroxides, many subsequent reactions. In addition to the Modification of proteins (carbonyl proteins etc.) also arise low molecular weight reactive compounds, such as 2-nonenal and 4-hydroxy-nonenal. The processes already described (see above) are running. The regulated one Degradation of aberrant proteins is disturbed and results in one forced formation of age pigments in the skin. The dismantling of Desmosomes (adhesive zones between the cells) are inhibited. This leads to a disturbance in the regulated exfoliation of the skin.

In addition to the transient impairment of cells and cell proteins under oxidative stress, there are scientific ones Observations (Petropoulos, I. et. Al .; Increase of oxidatively modified protein is associated with a decrease in proteasome activity and content in aging epidermal cells; J. Gerontol A Biol Sci Med Sci 55 (5); 2000; B220-7) that with age, the amount on modified, aberant proteins (oxidized proteins, glucosylated Proteins (narrowly. Glycated proteins) and 4-hydroxy-2-nonenal-modified proteins) increases. In contrast, however, the proteasome content - proteasomes are sites of degradation of the aberrant proteins - and the proteasome activity. This leads to a gradual one Increase in defective proteins and is considered a cause of the aging process of cells.

However, there are compounds and active ingredients that counteract or delay cell aging. For this heard Carnosine, a dipeptide (β-alanyl-L-histidine), that occurs in muscle, brain and other innervated tissues. In cell cultures of human fibroblasts, their culture medium carnosine contained up to 10 cell divisions beyond the maximum division potential Hipkiss, A. R .; Carnosine and Protein Carbonyl Groups: A Possible Relatinship; Biochemistry 65; 2000; 771-778).

In addition to other substances, such as vitamin E, carnosine is considered an “anti-aging” agent because, like vitamin E, it eliminates free radicals which are increasingly formed under increased oxygen conditions. However, carnosine is also said to have other functions in preventing cell aging. Carnosine reacts with protein carbonyl groups, which are formed by free radicals from amino groups, and the resulting protein carbonyl carnosine adducts can take the form of inert lipofuscin (age pigments) in the cell stored or degraded with the help of proteasomes.

Also described (Hipkiss, A. R .; Carnosine and Protein Carbonyl Groups: A Possible Relatinship; Biochemistry 65; 2000; 771-778) are reactions of carnosine with glucose and other sugar molecules. By this competitive reaction becomes the non-enzymatic glucosylation of proteins and the formation of "advanced glycosylated end products" (AGEs) decreased.

However, carnosine also reacts low molecular weight aldehydes and ketones and thus prevents a reaction or a crosslinking of these aldehydes and ketones with proteins, but also lipid molecules and DNA.

In addition to carnosine, there are other dipeptides such as carcinin, anserine, homocarnosine and ophidine. These connections a buffering effect is attributed to cell homeostasis. The Dipeptide β-alanyl cysteamine (Β-alethine) however, has an effect comparable to carnosine in cell culture, i.e. it increases the cell division rate over the maximum division potential.

• - Funktion als Radikalfänger
• - Reduktion der Quervernetzung von Proteinen, Lipidmolekülen und DNA und
• – Verminderung der nicht-enzymatischen Glucosylierung und damit geringere AGE-Bildung.

Carnosine and similar peptides delay cell aging through various effects such as:

• - Function as a radical scavenger
• - Reduction of cross-linking of proteins, lipid molecules and DNA and
• - Reduction of non-enzymatic glucosylation and thus less AGE formation.

These findings have led to the fact that Carnosine is already used in some oral and topical preparations becomes. For example, there are international carnosine capsules Antiaging Systems and a serum containing carnosine for topical use Application of the same company.

Object of the present invention was to eliminate the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular preparations should be available the unpleasant and disruptive effects of 2-Nonenal and more Reduce connections and thus particularly beneficial for older people Create products.

Surprisingly it has now been found that carnosine and similar peptides in cosmetic or dermatological formulations for the condensation of 2-nonenal and the like Aldehydes too volatile and olfactory inconspicuous Leads.

With the application of this cosmetic and dermatological formulations come about - caused by the above described condensation - too a reduction in body odor, mainly but not exclusively caused by 2-nonenal becomes.

This applies in particular to reduction of body odor in people over 40 years.

Through the condensation described above the age-related, progressive inhibition of proteasomes, among others is triggered by the increased formation of 2-nonenal and similar compounds, reduced.

Also described by the above Condensation inhibited the dysregulation of corneal differentiation and as a result, improved exfoliation of the uppermost skin layers achieved

Based on these findings is a further use of carnosine and similar peptides, in particular in preparations specially tailored to the needs of typical skin conditions in the skin Age over 40 years are coordinated, advantageous. Preparations from Carnosine in formulations with deodorant or titrant perspirant Effect. For these formulations are the following active ingredients in the compositions listed advantageous.

Cosmetic and dermatological according to the invention Preparations can come in various forms. So you can z. B. a solution, a anhydrous preparation, an emulsion or microemulsion of the type Water-in-oil (W / O) or of the oil-in-water type (O / W), a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W), a gel, a solid stick, an ointment or an aerosol represent.

It is also possible and beneficial in the sense of the present invention, the active compounds according to the invention in aqueous systems or surfactant preparations for cleaning the skin and hair.

According to the use according to the invention can cosmetic deodorants in the form of aerosols, i.e. from aerosol containers, squeeze bottles or preparations which can be sprayed by a pump device or in the form of liquid compositions which can be applied by means of roll-on devices, as deodorant sticks and in the form of W / O or can be applied from normal bottles and containers O / W emulsions, e.g. Creams or lotions. Furthermore, the cosmetic deodorants beneficial in the form of deodorant Tinctures, deodorant powders or deodorant powder sprays available.

In addition to water, ethanol and isopropanol, glycerol and propylene glycol, the usual cosmetic carriers for producing the deodorant preparations according to the use according to the invention are kol skin-care fat or fat-like substances, such as oleic acid decyl ester, cetyl alcohol, cetylstearyl alcohol and 2-octyldodecanol, in the proportions customary for such preparations are used as well as slime-forming substances and thickeners, for example hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl cellulose, polyacrylic acid, polyvinylpyrrolidone, small quantities, in addition cyclic silicone oils (polydimethylsiloxanes) and liquid polymethylphenylsiloxanes with low viscosity.

• - Wasser oder wäßrige Lösungen
• – Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, vorzugsweise aber Rizinusöl;
• – Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• – Alkohole, Diole oder Polyole niedriger C-Zahl, sowie deren Ether, vorzugsweise Ethanol, Isopropanol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Ethylenglykol, Ethylenglykolmonoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Propylenglykolmonomethyl, -monoethyl- oder -monobutylether, Diethylenglykolmonomethyl- oder -monoethylether und analoge Produkte.

If the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the sense of the present invention is a solution or emulsion or dispersion, the following can be used as solvents:

• - water or aqueous solutions
• - oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, but preferably castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols with a low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low C number or with fatty acids;
• - Alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and similar products.

In particular, mixtures of the aforementioned solvents used. With alcoholic solvents water can be another ingredient.

The oil phase of the emulsions, oleogels or hydrodispersions or lipodispersions in the sense of the present Invention is advantageously chosen from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously chosen are selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, Erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural Mixtures of such esters, e.g. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be chosen from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like more.

Any mix of such oil and wax components are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example Cetyl palmitate, to be used as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

Advantageously, the oil phase selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C ₁₂ _ ₁₅ -alkyl benzoate, caprylic-capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C ₁₂ _ ₁₅ -alkyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C ₁₂ _ ₁₅ alkyl benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C ₁₂ _ ₁₅ -alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons are Paraffin oil, Squalane and squalene advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use.

The oil phase can also be advantageous have a content of cyclic or linear silicone oils or completely such oils exist, although it is preferred, except the silicone oil or silicone oils one additional Content of other oil phase components to use.

Cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) is advantageous used as silicone oil to be used according to the invention. But also other silicone oils are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane).

Are also particularly advantageous Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention advantageously advantageously contains alcohols, diols or polyols of low C number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl - or monoethyl ether and analog products, further Alcohols with a low C number, for example ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide and aluminum silicates.

Fixed pens contain e.g. natural or synthetic waxes, fatty alcohols or fatty acid esters.

usual Basic materials for the use as cosmetic pencils in the sense of the present Are suitable, liquid oils (e.g. Paraffin oils, castor oil, Isopropyl myristate), semi-solid components (e.g. petroleum jelly, lanolin), solid components (e.g. beeswax, ceresin and microcrystalline Waxes or ozokerite) as well as high-melting waxes (e.g. carnauba wax, candelilla)

As a propellant for cosmetic sprayable from aerosol containers and / or dermatological preparations within the meaning of the present Invention are the usual known volatile, liquefied propellant, for example hydrocarbons (propane, butane, isobutane) are suitable, which can be used alone or in a mixture with one another. Also Compressed air is advantageous to use.

Of course, the specialist knows that it is there are non-toxic propellants that are essential for the realization of the present Invention in the form of aerosol preparations would be suitable to which, however, because of harmful effects on the environment or other circumstances should be avoided, especially fluorocarbons and Chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

Cosmetic preparations in the sense of the present invention also present as gels, in addition to an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention and usually for that solvents used, preferably water, still organic thickeners, e.g. gum arabic, Xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, Hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, z. B. aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture from polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate, contain. The thickener is in the gel e.g. in a lot between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight, contain.

Gels used according to the invention usually contain Low C number alcohols, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin and water or an oil mentioned above in the presence of a thickener, which is preferred for oily alcoholic gels Silicon dioxide or an aluminum silicate, in the case of aqueous alcoholic or alcoholic Gel is preferably a polyacrylate.

In addition, the use of carnosine in skin care products such as creams, lotions, milks and gels proposed. According to the invention advantageous Carnosine can be incorporated into common cosmetic and dermatological Preparations which can be in various forms. So can they e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil type (W / O) or of the oil-in-water type (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) type, a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion or a gel.

Emulsions according to the invention in the sense of present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fat bodies, as well as water and one or more emulsifiers, as are customary for one such type of formulation can be used.

• - Mineralöle, Mineralwachse
• – Öle, wie Triglyceride der Caprin- oder der Caprylsäure, ferner natürliche Öle wie z.B. Rizinusöl;
• – Fette, Wachse und andere natürliche und synthetische Fettkörper, vorzugsweise Ester von Fettsäuren mit Alkoholen niedriger C-Zahl, z.B. mit Isopropanol, Propylenglykol oder Glycerin, oder Ester von Fettalkoholen mit Alkansäuren niedriger C-Zahl oder mit Fettsäuren;
• – Alkylbenzoate;
• – Silikonöle wie Dimethylpolysiloxane, Diethylpolysiloxane, Diphenylpolysiloxane sowie Mischformen daraus.

The lipid phase of the cosmetic or dermatological emulsions according to the invention can advantageously be selected from the following group of substances:

• - mineral oils, mineral waxes
• - oils, such as triglycerides of capric or caprylic acid, as well as natural oils such as castor oil;
• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fat bodies, preferably esters of fatty acids with alcohols with a low C number, for example with isopropanol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkanoic acids with a low C number or with fatty acids;
• - alkyl benzoates;
• - Silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, diethylpolysiloxanes, diphenylpolysiloxanes and mixed forms thereof.

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present Invention is advantageously chosen from the group of esters from saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters from aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils can then advantageously chosen are selected from the group of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, olerlerucate, Erucyl oleate, erucylerucate as well as synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural Mixtures of such esters, e.g. Jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, for example olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

Any mix of such oil and wax components are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention. It may also be advantageous to use waxes, for example Cetyl palmitate, to be used as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecylisononanoate, isoeicosane, 2-ethylhexyl _cocoate , C _12-15 alkyl benzoate, caprylic capric acid triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether.

Particularly advantageous are mixtures of C ₁₂ _ ₁₅ alkyl benzoate and 2-Ethylhexyliso1tearat, mixtures of C _12-15- benzoate and isotridecyl isononanoate and mixtures of C _12-15- benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate.

Of the hydrocarbons are Paraffin oil, Squalane and squalene advantageous for the purposes of the present invention to use.

The oil phase can advantageously also contain cyclic or linear silicone oils or consist entirely of such oils, although it is preferred to use an additional content of other oil phase components in addition to the silicone oil or the silicone oils. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁–R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, daß die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). m kann dabei Werte von 2–200.000 annehmen.Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxy units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). m can assume values of 2–200,000.

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁–R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, daß die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). n kann dabei Werte von 3/2 bis 20 annehmen. Gebrochene Werte für n berücksichtigen, daß ungeradzahlige Anzahlen von Siloxylgruppen im Cyclus vorhanden sein können.Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

the silicon atoms being substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals those which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). n can take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Cyclomethicone (e.g. Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane) used as the silicone oil to be used according to the invention. But also other silicone oils are to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention, for example undecamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, Poly (methylphenylsiloxane), cetyl dimethicone, behen oxide dimethicone.

Mixtures are also advantageous from cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, and those from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

But it is also advantageous to be more similar to silicone oils To choose constitution such as the compounds referred to above, whose derivatized organic side chains, for example polyethoxylated and / or are polypropoxylated. These include, for example, polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers like the cetyl dimethicone copolyol, the (cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate)

Are also particularly advantageous Mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, of cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention contains optionally advantageous alcohols, diols or polyols lower Carbon number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, Ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, -monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or -monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore lower alcohols C number, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin as well in particular one or more thickeners, which or which advantageously chosen can be from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates.

Present as emulsions according to the invention Preparations particularly advantageously contain one or more Hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be chosen from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, layered silicates, Polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

Present as hydrogels according to the invention Preparations contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group.

Gums include plant or tree sap that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. From this group can can advantageously be chosen for the purposes of the present invention e.g. gum arabic, carob flour, tragacanth, karaya, Guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, Xanthan gum.

The use of derivatized gums such as hydroxypropyl guar ( ^Jaguar® HP 8) is also advantageous.

Among the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. hyaluronic acid, Chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Located among the cellulose derivatives e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Hydroxypropyl methylcellulose.

Layered silicates include naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum ^® . These can be used as such or in modified form such as stearylalkonium hectorites.

Silica gels can also be used advantageously be used.

Located under the polyacrylates e.g. Carbopol types from Goodrich (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

Among the polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA Copolymers, polyglycols.

Present as emulsions according to the invention Preparations contain one or more emulsifiers. These emulsifiers can advantageously chosen are from the group of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric emulsifiers.

• a) Partialfettsäureester und Fettsäureester mehrwertiger Alkohole und deren ethoxylierte Derivate (z. B. Glycerylmonostearate, Sorbitanstearate, Glycerylstearylcitrate, Sucrosestearate)
• b) ethoxylierte Fettalkohole und Fettsäuren
• c) ethoxilierte Fettamine, Fettsäureamide, Fettsäurealkanolamide
• d) Alkylphenolpolyglycolether (z.B. Triton X)

Among the nonionic emulsifiers are

• a) Partial fatty acid esters and fatty acid esters of polyhydric alcohols and their ethoxylated derivatives (e.g. glyceryl monostearates, sorbitan stearates, glyceryl stearyl citrates, sucrose stearates)
• b) ethoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids
• c) ethoxylated fatty amines, fatty acid amides, fatty acid alkanolamides
• d) alkylphenol polyglycol ether (e.g. Triton X)

• a) Seifen (z. B. Natriumstearat)
• b) Fettalkoholsulfate
• c) Mono-, Di- und Trialkylphosphosäureester und deren Ethoxylate

Among the anionic emulsifiers are

• a) soaps (e.g. sodium stearate)
• b) fatty alcohol sulfates
• c) mono-, di- and trialkylphosphonic acid esters and their ethoxylates

• a) quaternäre Ammoniumverbindungen mit einem langkettigen aliphatischen Rest z.B. Distearyldimonium Chloride

Among the cationic emulsifiers are

• a) quaternary ammonium compounds with a long-chain aliphatic radical, for example distearyldimonium chloride

• a) Alkylamininoalkancarbonsäuren
• b) Betaine, Sulfobetaine
• c) Imidazolinderivate

Among the amphoteric emulsifiers are

• a) Alkylamininoalkane carboxylic acids
• b) betaines, sulfobetaines
• c) Imidazoline derivatives

There are also naturally occurring ones Emulsifiers, including beeswax, wool wax, lecithin and sterols belong.

• – der Fettalkoholethoxylate
• – der ethoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• – der Polyethylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O0-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• – der Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-N,
• – der veretherten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R',
• – der veresterten Fettsäureethoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• – der Polyethylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• – der ethoxylierten Sorbitanester
• – der Cholesterinethoxylate
• – der ethoxylierten Triglyceride
• – der Alkylethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-CH₂-COOH nd n eine Zahl von 5 bis 30 darstellen,
• – der Polyoxyethylensorbitolfettsäureester,
• – der Alkylethersulfate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• – der Fettalkoholpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• – der propoxylierten Wollwachsalkohole,
• – der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R',
• – der veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-C(O)-R',
• – der Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolglycerinfettsäureester
• – der propoxylierten Sorbitanester
• – der Cholesterinpropoxylate
• – der propoxylierten Triglyceride
• – der Alkyiethercarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)O-)_n-CH₂-COOH
• – der Alkylethersulfate bzw. die diesen Sulfaten zugrundeliegenden Säuren der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-SO₃-H
• – der Fettalkohoiethoxylatelpropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-H,
• – der Polypropylenglycolether der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-R',
• – der veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R',
• – der Fettsäureethoxylate/propoxylate der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-H,.

O / W emulsifiers can, for example, advantageously be selected from the group of polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated products, for example:

• - The fatty alcohol ethoxylates
• - the ethoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• - the polyethylene glycol ether of the general formula R-O0 - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• The fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -N,
• The etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ',
• The esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• - The polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The ethoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol ethoxylates
• - The ethoxylated triglycerides
• The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH and n represent a number from 5 to 30,
• - the polyoxyethylene sorbitol fatty acid ester,
• - The alkyl ether sulfates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• The fatty alcohol propoxylates of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• - the propoxylated wool wax alcohols,
• The etherified fatty acid propoxylates R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ',
• The esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ',
• The fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -H,
• - the polypropylene glycol glycerol fatty acid ester
• - The propoxylated sorbitan esters
• - the cholesterol propoxylates
• - the propoxylated triglycerides
• - The alkyl ether carboxylic acids of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) O-) _n -CH ₂ -COOH
• - The alkyl ether sulfates or the acids on which these sulfates are based, of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -SO ₃ -H
• The fatty alcohol ethoxylate propoxylates of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -H,
• The polypropylene glycol ether of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ',
• The etherified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ',
• - The fatty acid ethoxylates / propoxylates of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -H ,.

Be particularly advantageous according to the invention the polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageous with with HLB values of 14.5–15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers are saturated Have radicals R and R '. The O / W emulsifiers have unsaturated residues R and / or R ', or if isoalkyl derivatives are present, the preferred HLB value such emulsifiers are also lower or higher.

It is advantageous to choose the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of the ethoxylated stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols). The following are particularly preferred:
Polyethylene glycol (13) stearyl ether (steareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) stearyl ether (steareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) stearyl ether (steareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) stearyl ether (steareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) stearyl ether ( Steareth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) stearyl ether (Steareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) stearyl ether (Steareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) stearyl ether (Steareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isostearyl ether ( Isosteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-17), Polyethylene glycol (18) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isostearyl ether (isosteareth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) cetyl ether (ceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetyl ether (ceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl ether (ceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl ether (ceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetyl ether ( Ceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl ether (ceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl ether (ceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetyl ether (ceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (13) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) isocetyl ether ( Isoceteth-17), polyethylene glycol (18) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) isocetyl ether (isoceteth-20),
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleyl ether (oleth-12), polyethylene glycol (13) oleyl ether (oleth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) oleyl ether (oleth-14), polyethylene glycol (15) oleyl ether (oleth-15),
Polyethylene glycol (12) lauryl ether (Laureth-12), polyethylene glycol (12) isolauryl ether (Isolaureth-12).

Polyethylene glycol (13) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-13), polyethylene glycol (14) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-14), Polyethylene glycol (15) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-15), polyethylene glycol (16) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-16), polyethylene glycol (17) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-17), Polyethylene glycol (18) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-18), polyethylene glycol (19) cetyl stearyl ether (Ceteareth-19), polyethylene glycol (20) cetylstearyl ether (Ceteareth-20),

It is also advantageous to choose the fatty acid ethoxylates from the following group:
Polyethylene glycol (20) stearate, polyethylene glycol (21) stearate, polyethylene glycol (22) stearate, polyethylene glycol (23) stearate, polyethylene glycol (24) stearate, polyethylene glycol (25) stearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (13) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (14) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (15) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (16) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (17) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (19) isostearate (20) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (21) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (22) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (23) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (24) isostearate, polyethylene glycol (25) isostearate,
Polyethylene glycol (12) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (13) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (14) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (15) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (16) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (17) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (18) oleate, Polyethylene glycol (19) oleate, Polyethylene glycol ( 20) oleate The sodium laureth-11 carboxylate can advantageously be used as the ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or its salt.

Sodium can be used as the alkyl ether sulfate Laureth 1-4 sulfate can be used advantageously.

As an ethoxylated cholesterol derivative Polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether can advantageously be used. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol has also proven itself.

As ethoxylated triglycerides can be advantageous which uses polyethylene glycol (60) Evening Primrose Glycerides be (Evening Primrose = evening primrose)

Another advantage is the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also convenient that Sorbitan esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate to choose.

As advantageous W / O emulsifiers can are used: fatty alcohols with 8 to 30 carbon atoms, Monoglycerol ester more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol esters saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, monoglycerol ether saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms, diglycerol ether more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 Carbon atoms, propylene glycol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C atoms and sorbitan esters more saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C-atoms.

Particularly advantageous W / O emulsifiers are glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, Glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, Propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, Propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, Sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, Isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate.

Use is also advantageous of carnosine in cleaning products for the skin and hair.

Cosmetic preparations that a Represent skin cleansers or shampoos preferably at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants Substance, or mixtures of such substances, those used according to the invention Active ingredient in water Medium and tools, as usual used for that become. The surface active Substance or the mixtures of these substances can in a concentration between 1% and 50% by weight in the shampoo available.

Cosmetic preparations for treatment and care of the hair, which contain the active ingredient used according to the invention, can are present as emulsions from non-ionic or anionic Are type. In addition to water, non-ionic emulsions contain oils or Fatty alcohols, which are also polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, for example could be, or mixtures of the two organic components. This Emulsions may contain cationic surfactants Substances.

According to the invention, cosmetic preparations for the treatment and care of the hair are present as gels, in addition to an effective content of active ingredient according to the invention and, if appropriate for that usually solvents used, preferably water, still organic thickeners, e.g. gum arabic, Xanthan gum, sodium alginate, cellulose derivatives, preferably methyl cellulose, Hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, Hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose or inorganic thickeners, e.g. Aluminum silicates such as bentonite, or a mixture from polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate, contain. The thickener is in the gel e.g. in a lot between 0.1 and 30% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 15% by weight, contain.

Aqueous cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention or for the watery Cleaning certain water-poor or water-free detergent concentrates can contain anionic, nonionic and / or amphoteric surfactants.

Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water. They are caused by their specific molecular structure at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic part of the molecule, for a reduction the surface tension of water, wetting the skin, facilitating dirt removal and solution, a gentle rinse and ever as desired - for foam regulation.

• – anionische Tenside,
• – kationische Tenside,
• – amphotere Tenside und
• – nichtionische Tenside.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^- , -OSO ₃ ^2– , -SO _3– , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• - amphoteric surfactants and
• - nonionic surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave like anionic or cationic surfactants in aqueous solution depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^- (at pH = 2) X ^- = any anion, e.g. Cl ^-
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7)
RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, eg Na ⁺ Polyether chains are typical for non-ionic surfactants. Non-ionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium.

A. Anionic surfactants

• 1. Acylglutamate, beispielsweise Natriumacylglutamat, Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/Capric Glutamat,
• 2. Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl-hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/Kalium-Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Kollagen,
• 3. Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat,
• 4. Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat,
• 5. Acyllactylate, Lauroyllactylat, Caproyllactylat
• 6. Alaninate,

Carbonsäuren und Derivate, wie

• 1. Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkundecylenat,
• 2. Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6-Citrat und Natrium PEG-4-Lauramidcarboxylat,
• 3. Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13-Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6-Cocamide Carboxylat,

Phosphorsäureester und Salze, wie beispielsweise DEA-Oleth-10-Phosphat und Dilaureth-4 Phosphat,Anionic surfactants to be used advantageously are acylamino acids (and their salts), such as

• 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
• 2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium-cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
• 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. Acyl lactylate, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate
• 6. alaninates,

Carboxylic acids and derivatives, such as

• 1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• 3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

Phosphoric acid esters and salts, such as DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,

• 1. Acyl-isethionate, z.B. Natrium-/Ammoniumcocoyl-isethionat,
• 2. Alkylarylsulfonate,
• 3. Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrium C_12–14 Olefin-sulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat,
• 4. Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido-MEA-Sulfosuccinat

sowie Schwefelsäureester, wie

• 1. Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA-Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C_12–13-Parethsulfat,
• 2. Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA-Laurylsulfat.

Sulfonic acids and salts such as

• 1. acyl isethionate, for example sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• 2. alkylarylsulfonates,
• 3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
• 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

as well as sulfuric acid esters, such as

• 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

B. Cationic surfactants

• 1. Alkylamine,
• 2. Alkylimidazole,
• 3. Ethoxylierte Amine und
• 4. Quaternäre Tenside
• 5. Esterquats.

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. alkylimidazoles,
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants
• 5. Esterquats.

Quaternary surfactants contain at least an N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl and / or aryl groups is. This leads to, independently from the pH value to a positive charge. Advantageous quaternary surfactants are Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain. Cationic surfactants can also be used are preferably chosen in the sense of the present invention from the group of quaternaries Ammonium compounds, especially benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, further alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetyl pyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example Alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Advantageous especially cetyltrimethylammonium salts are to be used.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

• 1. Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamin, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacylamphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,
• 2. N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropionsäure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acylamphopropionate,
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

• 1. Alkohole,
• 2. Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/DEA/MIPA,
• 3. Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid,
• 4. Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen,
• 5. Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxyliertel propoxylierte Ester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Glycerinester, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Cholesterine, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Triglyceridester, ethoxyliertes propoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Polysiloxane, propoxylierte POE-Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycasid und Cocoglycosid.
• 6. Sucroseester, -Ether
• 7 Polyglycerinester, Diglycerinester, Monoglycerinester
• 8. Methylglucosester, Ester von Hydroxysäuren

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alcohols,
• 2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• 3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,
• 4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
• 5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and decyl polyglycoside such as lauryl polyglycoside such as decyl polyglycoside ,
• 6. sucrose esters, ether
• 7 polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters
• 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

The use is also advantageous a combination of anionic and / or amphoteric surfactants with one or more non-ionic surfactants.

Cosmetic preparations, the cosmetic Cleaning preparations for can represent the skin in liquid or solid form. In addition to the one used according to the invention, they contain Active ingredient preferably at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants Substance or mixtures thereof and auxiliaries as they are usually used used for that become. The surface active Substance can be in a concentration between 1 and 94 wt .-% in the cleaning preparations are present, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Cosmetic preparations that a Shampooing agents contain, in addition to an effective Active substance content preferably at least one anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants Substance or mixtures thereof, and auxiliaries, as are customary used for that become. The surface active Substance can be in a concentration between 1 wt .-% and 94 wt .-% in the shampoo.

The cosmetic and dermatological contain active ingredients and auxiliary substances, as they are usually used for this Type of preparations used for hair care and hair treatment become. Preservatives, surface-active agents, serve as auxiliary substances Substances, substances for preventing foaming, thickeners, emulsifiers, Fats, oils, Waxes, organic solvents, Bactericides, perfumes, Dyes or pigments whose job it is to make the hair or the to color cosmetic or dermatological preparation itself.

The anions according to the invention are preferred chosen from the group of chlorides, sulfates and hydrogen sulfates, the Phosphates, hydrogen phosphates and the linear and cyclic oligophosphates as well the carbonates and hydrogen carbonates.

The compositions according to the invention contain except the above-mentioned surfactants water and, if appropriate, those customary in cosmetics Additives, for example perfume, thickeners, dyes, deodorants, antimicrobial substances, moisturizing Agents, complexing and sequestering agents, pearlescent agents, Plant extracts, vitamins, active ingredients and the like.

It is also beneficial to Preparations for the purposes of the present invention are customary antioxidants inflict. According to the invention as favorable Antioxidants all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or common Antioxidants are used.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, , Butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable dosages (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), and also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ -Linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, alanine diacetic acid, flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate acetate), as well as coniferylbenzoate benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, ferulic acid and derivatives thereof, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnSO ₄₎ selenium and derivatives thereof (eg Selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the erfindungsge suitable derivatives (salts, esters, Ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of antioxidants (a or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its Derivatives that are antioxidants are advantageous their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

The cosmetic and dermatological invention Preparations can Contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as is usually the case in such preparations be used, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, Dyes, pigments that have a coloring Have an effect, thickeners, surface-active substances, emulsifiers, softening, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, Fats, oils, Waxes or other usual Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvent or silicone derivatives.

Examples. The following examples are intended to illustrate but not limit the invention.

Example 1: O / W cream

The components of the oil phase are combined with each other, then at 60-70 ° C with the also combined Stirred water phase whereupon the mixture is homogenized. The mixture is then cooled to room temperature.

Example 2: O / W cream

The components of the oil phase are combined with each other, then at 60-70 ° C with the also combined Stirred water phase whereupon the mixture is homogenized. The mixture is then cooled to room temperature.

Example 3: O / W cream

The components of the oil phase are combined with each other, then at 60-70 ° C with the also combined Stirred water phase whereupon the mixture is homogenized. The mixture is then cooled to room temperature.

Example 4: O / W cream

Example 5: Shower gel

Example 6: Mild shower gel

Example 7: Gel-like preparation

Example 8: Shower emulsion

Examples 9-11: Pearlescent conditioner shampoo

The pH is adjusted to 6.

Examples 12-14: clear conditioner shampoo

The pH is adjusted to 6.

Examples 15-17: clear light shampoo with volume effect

The pH is adjusted to 5.5.

Examples 18 + 19: soaps

Example 20: Syndet

Example 21: Aerosol spray type A

By mixing the respective Liquid components obtained Phase is with a propane-butane mixture (2: 7) in a ratio of 39:61 in aerosol containers bottled.

Example 22: Type B aerosol spray

By mixing the respective Liquid components obtained Phase is with a propane-butane mixture (2: 7) in a ratio of 17:83 in aerosol containers bottled.

Example 23: Pump atomizer

Example 24: Roll-on Gel

Example 25: Roll-on Emulsion

Example 26: Roll-on (opaque macroemulsion)

Example 27: Roll-on (clear nanoemulsion gel)

Example 28: Roll-on (suspension)

Example 29: Pump atomizer (translucent microemulsion)

Example 30: Pump atomizer (clear nanoemulsion)

Example 31: Deodorant cream (opaque macroemulsion)

Claims (6)

Use of carnosine and / or similar peptides for the production of cosmetic or dermatological formulations for condensation of 2-nonenal and the like Aldehydes too volatile and olfactory inconspicuous Links. Use of carnosine and / or similar peptides for the production of cosmetic or dermatological formulations for reduction of body odor. Use of carnosine and / or similar peptides for the production of cosmetic or dermatological formulations for reduction of body odor especially in people over 40 years. Use of carnosine and / or similar peptides for the production of cosmetic or dermatological formulations for lifting the age-related progressive inhibition of proteasomes, triggered among other things through the increased formation of 2-nonenal and similar compounds. Use of carnosine and / or similar peptides for the production of cosmetic or dermatological formulations for inhibition the dysregulation of the corneal differentiation caused by the condensation of carnosine and similar peptides with 2-nonenal and the like Aldehydes and as a result of improved exfoliation of the uppermost Skin layers. Cosmetic and / or dermatological preparation according to one or more of the claims 1 to 5, characterized by a carnosine content of 0.001 up to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight.