DE10105908A1 - Cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations for skin or hair care, comprises bioquinone as antioxidant, and an emulsifier combination of oligoglycosides and polyol 12-hydroxystearate - Google Patents

Abstract

New cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations (I) comprise: (A) alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides; (B) polyol 12-hydroxystearate; and (C) bioquinones. An independent claim is also included for the use of mixtures containing (A)-(C) for the production of cosmetic and/or pharmaceutical preparations. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : Antioxidant; Electron carrier.

Description

Field of the Invention

The invention is in the field of cosmetics or pharmacy and relates to accessories riding with a content of special emulsifiers and active substances with quinone structure.

State of the art

Ubiquinones act as electron carriers in biological, mitochondral oxidation and therefore play an important role in energy metabolism. Make plastoquinones represent analogous plant compounds which are important in photosynthesis. In Cosmetic preparations have long been used as bio quinones tioxidants to protect substances sensitive to oxidation. Hair and skin care products with a content of these substances are, for example, from the publications EP 0751762 B1, EP 1059078 A1, EP 1059079 A1, EP 1059080 A1 and EP 1059081 A1 (Beiersdorf) as well as from the overview by Brunke in Euro Cosmet 5, 61 (1997).

The disadvantage, however, is that bioquinones, like most natural antioxidants, are only of limited use are stable and are degraded within a short time under the influence of light. But this is now not in the interest of the consumer who wants to trust a cosmetic Preparation that offers effective protection against harmful radiation and skin aging, is also adequately storable. Another problem arises from the fact that organic chinones are difficult to incorporate into cosmetic formulations. Insbeson In the case of temperature storage, there are excretions and associated with them accelerated breakdown of the active ingredients.

The object of the present invention was therefore to prepare new preparations for to make available cosmetics or cosmetic pharmacy that are free of the described  Disadvantages are d. H. also with temperature storage compared to comparative spec products have improved emulsion and photostability.

Description of the invention

The invention relates to cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing ent

• a) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides,
• b) polyol poly-12-hydroxystearate, and
• c) bioquinones.

Surprisingly, it was found that the use of a special emulsifier system consisting of alkyl and / or alkenyl oliglycosides and polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates Not only does bioquinones remain stable even at higher temperatures can be incorporated, but also the photostability is significantly improved.

Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides

Alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides which form component (a) are known nonionic surfactants which follow the formula (I)

R ¹ O- [G] _p (I)

in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained according to the relevant procedures in preparative organic chemistry. Representative of the extensive literature here is the review by Biermann et al. in Starch /force 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm. Toil. 108, 89 (1993) and J. Kahre et al. in SÖFW-Journal Issue 8, 598 (1995).

The alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (I) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides, and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in a given compound must always be an integer and here before can assume all the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a certain alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic parameter, which usually represents a fractional number. Preferably who used the alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides with an average degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, preference is given to alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, capro alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as those obtained in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxosynthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) are preferred, which are obtained as a preliminary step in the separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol by distillation and with a proportion of less than 6% by weight of C ₁₂ - Alcohol may be contaminated and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 16 to 18, carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and the technical mixtures described above, which can be described as well as their technical mixtures. Alkyl oligoglucosides of the formula (I) in which R ^{1 represents} alkyl radicals having 12 to 18 carbon atoms are preferred, for example those based on cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and in particular coconut alcohol and their mixtures, preferably with a DP of 1 to third

Polyolpoly-12-hydroxystearate

The polyol poly-12-hydroxystearates, which are component (b), are known substances which are sold, for example, under the brands "Dehymuls® PGPH" or "Eumul gin® VL 75" (mixture with Coco Glucosides in a weight ratio of 1: 1) are distributed by Cognis Deutschland GmbH, Düsseldorf / FRG. In this context, reference is also made to the international patent application WO 95/34528 (Cognis). The polyol component of the emulsifiers can be derived from substances which have at least two, preferably 3 to 12 and in particular 3 to 8 hydroxyl groups and 2 to 12 carbon atoms. Typical examples are:

• a) glycerin and polyglycerin;
• b) alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol;
• c) Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, tri methylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
• d) alkyl oligoglucosides with 1 to 22, preferably 1 to 8 and in particular 1 to 4 Koh oils in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside;
• e) sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol;
• f) sugars with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• g) aminosugars, such as, for example, glucamine.

Among the polyhydroxystearates contained according to the invention, reaction products based on polyglycerol are of particular importance because of their excellent application properties. It has proven particularly advantageous to use selected polyglycerols which have the following homolog distribution (the preferred ranges are given in brackets):
Glycerins: 5 to 35 (15 to 30)% by weight
Diglycerins: 15 to 40 (20 to 32) wt%
Triglycerins: 10 to 35 (15 to 25)% by weight
Tetraglycerols: 5 to 20 (8 to 15)% by weight
Pentaglycerins: 2 to 10 (3 to 8) wt%
Oligoglycerins: ad 100% by weight

The weight ratio between components (a) and (b) can be 10:90 to 90:10, preferably 25:75 to 75:25 and in particular 40:60 to 60:40.

bioquinones

The most important bioquinones that make up component (c) include the ubiquinones, which are also referred to as mitoquinones or coenzymes Q _n [cf. Römpp Chemie Lexi kon, Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 9th ed., P. 4784 f]. This is a group of substances that have n isoprene units attached to their quinone ring in chains (Q ₀ -Q ₂₀ ). Preferred ubiquinones are those which on the one hand have no isoprene units or have 1 to 12 and in particular 1 to 6 isoprene units. The term bioquinones should also be understood to mean plastoquinones as well as mixtures of ubi and plastoquinones and their derivatives and, in turn, their mixtures. Plastoquinones differ from the ubiquinones in three substituents on the chi nonring, the two methoxy groups in the ubiquinones being replaced by methyl groups and one methyl group by a hydrogen atom. However, the chain-bound isoprene units are also structurally identical. Typical examples of suitable bioquinone derivatives are the alkylubiquinones, in particular 6-alkylubiquinones, which have 1 to 12 and preferably 6 to 10 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical. Decy lubiquinones, such as e.g. B. 6-decylubiquinone or 2,3-dimethoxy-5-methyl-6-decylbenzoquinone. The weight ratio between the sum of components (a) and (b) on the one hand and component (c) on the other hand can be 99: 1 to 50:50, preferably 95: 5 to 75:25 and in particular 90: 10 to 80:20 ,

A preparation according to the invention typically has the following composition:

• a) 0.1 to 30, preferably 1 to 10% by weight of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides,
• b) 0.1 to 30, preferably 1 to 10 wt .-% polyol poly-12-hydroxystearate, and
• c) 0.1 to 10, preferably 1 to 2% by weight of bioquinones

with the proviso that the quantities indicated with water and usual auxiliary and additive add substances to 100% by weight.

Cosmetic preparations

Another object of the present invention relates to the use of mixtures containing components (a), (b) and (c) for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, in particular hair and skin care products, in which they are used in Amounts of 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 15 and in particular 5 to 10 wt .-% - based on the means - may be included.

These agents can also be used as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, co- Emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, sta bilisators, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic Active ingredients, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, anti dandruff, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors gates (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume contain oils, dyes and the like.  

surfactants

Anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or ampho tere or amphoteric surfactants are included, their share in the agents usually at is about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight. typical Examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsul fonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, Alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymi ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dial kylsulfosuccinate, mono- and dialkylsulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ethers carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acy laspartate, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfate, protein fatty acid condensate (especially vegetable Wheat-based products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants Po Containing lyglycol ether chains, these can be conventional, but preferably one have narrow homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fat acid amide polyglycol ether, fatty amine polyglycol ether, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or Mixed formal, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or glucoronic acid derivatives, fatty acid-N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolyzates (especially vegetable products based on wheat), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and aminoxi de. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can be a conventional, but preferably have a narrow homolog distribution. typi Examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as as the dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and ester quats, especially quaternized Fettsäuretrialkanolaminestersalze. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic Surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazo linium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are exclusively about known connections. Regarding the structure and manufacture of these substances, be on relevant reviews, for example J. Falbe (ed.), "Surfactants in Consumer Products ", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J. Falbe (ed.)," Katala gates, surfactants and mineral oil additives ", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, Pp. 123-217. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, i.e. H. especially Skin-compatible surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, Fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acids reglucamides, alkylamido betaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, last re preferably based on wheat proteins.  

oil body

Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ - C ₁₃ - carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, such as. B. myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, rucat Myristylisostearat Myristyle, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat , sostearylisostearat I, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl erucate, Behenylmy ristat, behenyl palmitate, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl oleate, Erucyl behenate and erucylerucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ alkyl hydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols (cf. DE 197 56 377 A1), in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / Get di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ -C ₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, especially benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as B. Dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol® CC), Guer betcarbonate based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. Finsolv ® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon ummethicontypes, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as. B. as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexane.

Co-emulsifiers

Examples of suitable co-emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

• - Addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 C atoms, to fatty acids with 12 to 22 C atoms, of alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
• - Adducts of 1 to 15 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• - Adducts of 15 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil;
• - Partial esters of glycerin and / or sorbitan with unsaturated, linear or saturated ten, branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycar bonic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide;
• - Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), poly ethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, zu Sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lau rylglucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) with saturated and / or unsaturated saturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or Hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
• - Mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 11 65 574 PS and / or mixed esters of fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, Methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerin or polyglycerin.
• - Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates as well as mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts;
• - lanolin alcohol;
• - Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives;
• - Block copolymers e.g. B. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
• - polymer emulsifiers, e.g. B. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
• - Polyalkylene glycols as well
• - glycerol.

Ethylene Oxide

The addition products of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are homolog mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and Substrate with which the addition reaction is carried out corresponds. C _12/18 - fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 20 24 051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.

partial glycerides

Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, Hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid diglyceride, Oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid moglyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, Linoleic acid monoglyceride, Linoleic acid diglyceride, Linolenic acid monoglyceride, Linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, Tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric diglyceride, malic acid mo noglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, the subordinate may still contain small amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10, moles are also suitable Ethylene oxide to the partial glycerides mentioned.

sorbitan

Sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate and sorbitan come as sorbitan esters diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, Sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquicinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, Sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, Sorbi tandihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesqui tartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, Sorbitan citrate, sorbitan tricrate, sorbitan monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan trimaleate and their technical mixtures. Are also suitable  Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to 10 moles of ethylene oxide to the ge called sorbitan esters.

polyglycerol

Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters polyglycerol-3-diisostearate (Lame form® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate, Diisostea royl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan® PDI), polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Po lyglycerol caprate T2010 / 90), polyglyceryl-3 cetyl ether (Chimexane® NL), polyglyceryl 3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Isostearate and their mixtures. Examples of other suitable ones Polyol esters are the mono-, optionally reacted with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, Di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fat acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like.

Anionic emulsifiers

Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and Dicar bonic acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid or Seba cinsäure.

Amphoteric and cationic emulsifiers

Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers. Zwitterionic surfactants are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm 3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. The fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants. Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C _8/18 alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with some 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-coconut alkyl aminopropionate, coconut acyl aminoethyl aminopropionate and C _12/18 acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the esterquat type, preferably methylquaternized difatty acid retriethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. H. solid or liquid vegetable or animal Products consisting essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, come as waxes a. natural waxes such as B. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, yes pan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walrus, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as. B. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as B. polyalkylene waxes and polyes ethylene glycol waxes in question. In addition to fats, fat-like additives also come as additives Substances such as lecithins and phospholipids in question. Under the name Lecithine ver those skilled in the art are those glycerophospholipids which are composed of fatty acids, glycerol, Form phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore in the professional world also often as phosphatidylchofins (PC). Examples include natural lecithins Cephalins called, which are also called phosphatidic acids and derivatives of Represent 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, one understands Phospholipids are usually mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerin (Glycerol phosphates), which are generally classified as fats. Besides that come too Sphingosine or sphingolipids in question.  

pearlescent

Pearlescent waxes, for example, are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol coldistearat; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances such as fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty al dehyde, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates totaling at least 24 carbon atoms exhibit, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid re or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 Carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency generator and thickener

The main consistency agents are fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols from 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and in addition partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkylo is preferred ligoglucosides and / or fatty acid-N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or Po lyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil Types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, especially xanthan gum, guar guar, Agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydro xypropyl cellulose, also high molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fat acids, polyacrylates, (e.g. Carbopole® and Pemulen types from Goodrich; Synthalene® from Sigma; Keltrol types from Kelco; Seppic Sepigel types; Salcare types from Allied Col loids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. As special Bentonites, such as e.g. B. Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and Is propylene carbonate. Surfactants such as ethoxylated are also suitable Fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or Trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkylo ligoglucoside and electrolytes such as table salt and ammonium chloride.  

superfatting

Substances such as lanolin and lecithin as well as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monogly ceride and fatty acid alkanolamides are used, the latter being used simultaneously as Foam stabilizers are used.

stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids, such as. B. magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate can be used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. B. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is marketed under the name Polymer JR 400® by Amerchol is available, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and Acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl imidazole polymers, such as. B. Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen poly peptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lame quat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic sili conpolymers such as e.g. B. amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethyla minohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with Dimethyl-diallylammonium chloride (Merquat® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, such as. B. described in FR 2252840 A and its crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationi cal chitin derivatives such as quaternized chitosan, optionally microcrystalline distributed, condensation products from dihaloalkylene, such as. B. dibromobutane with bisdialkyla mines such as B. bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as. B. Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt Polymers such as B. Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® A2-1 from Miranol.

Examples of anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are se vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinylace tat / butyl maleate / isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copoly mers and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamido propyltrimethylammonium chloride / acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers,  Polyvinylpyr rolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question. Other suitable polymers and thickeners are in Cosm. Toil. 108, 95 (1993).

silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpoly siloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy, fluorine, gly Kosid- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds that both flow at room temperature sig as well as resinous. Simethicones, in which there are are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates. A detailed overview suitable volatile silicones are also found by Todd et al. in cosm. Toil. 91, 27 (1976).

UV light protection filters and antioxidants

UV light protection factors are understood to mean, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) present at room temperature, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. to release heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. B. To name:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor as described in EP 0693471 B1;
• - 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid säureamylester;
• - Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxy cinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2- ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
• - Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-iso salicylic acid propylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;  
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;
• - Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and Octyl triazone, as described in EP 0818450 A1 or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);
• Propane-1,3-diones, such as e.g. B. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
• - Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives, as described in EP 0694521 B1.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• - 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylam monium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo phenon-5-sulfonic acid and its salts;
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-Oxo-3-bornylidenme thyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters, such as for example 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl-4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds, as described in DE 197 12 033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Especially Favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, for example 4-tert-butyl 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with ester of cinnamic acid, preferably 4- 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or 4- Methoxy cinnamic acid isoamyl. Such combinations with water-soluble are advantageous Chen filters such as B. 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, Combined ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light is also used for this purpose protective pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts in question. Examples of suitable Metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and also oxides of iron, Zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and their mixtures. As salts can NEN silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used. The oxides and salts are in the form of pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative  Cosmetics used. The particles should have an average diameter of few less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and Have 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but they can also be sol che particles are used, which are an ellipsoid or in some other way from the spherical shape differ. The pigments can also be surface treated, d. H. are hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dias oxides such as B. Titanium dioxide T805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). As a hydrophobic Coating agents come primarily from silicones and especially trialkoxyoctylsilanes or Simethicone in question. So-called micro- or Nanopigments used. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further Suitable UV light protection filters are in the overview by P. Finkel in SÖFW-Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Parf. Kosm. 3, 11 (1999).

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type can also be used, which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid ), Aurothioglucose, propylthiou racil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl) , Palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distea rylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (e.g. B. Buthioninsulfoximine, Homocysteinsulfoximin, Butioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfox imine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to µmol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Biliary extracts, bifirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives ( e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-Glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakarzarzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophe non, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenium-methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (z. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the inven tion suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Biogenic agents

Examples of biogenic active substances are tocopherol, tocopherol acetate and tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and their fragmentation products, β-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, Ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as. B. Prunus extract, Bam to understand baranus extract and vitamin complexes.

Deodorants and germ inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants (deodorants) counteract body odors, mask them or eliminate them. Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Dement speaking deodorants contain active ingredients that act as a germ inhibitor, enzyme inhibito function, odor absorbers or odor maskers.

Anti-germ agents

In principle, all are effective as anti-germ agents against gram-positive bacteria suitable substances such as. B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3, 4 dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3, 5-dimethylphenol, 2,2'-methylene-bis (6-bromo-4- chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbonilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, euge nol, clove oil, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, gly cerinmonocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicyl acid-N-alkylamides such. B. salicylic acid-n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.  

enzyme inhibitors

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. This is about it is preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, Trüsopro pyl citrate, tributyl citrate and especially triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). The fabrics in hibernate the enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. More stuff Fe which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterolsulfates or phosphates, such as lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterin, stigmasterin and sitoste rinsulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as glutar acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl esters, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, Hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, Tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, as well as zinc glycinate.

odor absorbers

Substances which absorb odor-forming compounds are suitable as odor absorbers and can hold on to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual compos and thus reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that there must remain unaffected by perfumes. Odor absorbers have no effect against bacteria. For example, they contain a complex component as the main component Zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances that are known to those skilled in the art as "fixators", such as. B. extracts of labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Odors act as odor maskers fabrics or perfume oils that, in addition to their function as odor masking agents, de give odorants their respective fragrance. As perfume oils are, for example, ge called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, Woods, herbs and grasses, needles and twigs, and resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and casto, are also suitable reum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester type, Ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, Phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallylpro pionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether the aldehydes e.g. B. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citro nellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and  Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. B. the Jonone and methylcedryl ketone, to the alcohols Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and Terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and Bal same. However, mixtures of different odoriferous substances are preferably used create an appealing fragrance together. Also essential oils less Volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as par for oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden flower oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavan dinöl. Bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, Phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, Linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indol, Hedione, Sandelice, Lemon Oil, Manda pure oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, lavandin oil, muscatel sage oil, β-Damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, Rose oxide, Romilat, Irotyl and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

antiperspirants

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

• - astringent active ingredients,
• - oil components,
• - nonionic emulsifiers,
• - co-emulsifiers,
• - consistency factors,
• - auxiliaries such. B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or
• - non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients. Such suitable antiperspirant active substances are such. As aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum minesesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with propylene glycol 1,2. Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids such as glycine. In addition, conventional oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants. Such oil-soluble aids can e.g. B. be:

• - anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils,
• - synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or
• - oil-soluble perfume oils.

Usual water-soluble additives are e.g. B. preservative, water-soluble fragrance substances, pH adjusting agents, e.g. B. buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, e.g. B. water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as B. xanthan gum, hydroxy ethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quater nated chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its sal ze and similar compounds.

Antidandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4- trimythylpentyl) -2- (1H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketocona zol®, (4-acetyl-1 - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-dioxylan-c-4- ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur Polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinole polyhexylate, sulfur tar distillates, Salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylenic acid monoethanolamide Sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, Aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate in question.  

swelling agent

Montmorillonite, clay minerals and pemules can be used as swelling agents for aqueous phases serve as alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich). Other suitable polymers or Swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm. Toil. 108: 95 (1993) men.

Insect repellents

As insect repellents come N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl buty lacetylaminopropionate in question.

Self-tanners and depigmenting agents

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. As tyrosine inhibitors that prevent the formation of Preventing melanin and finding use in depigmenting agents come, for example Wise arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) in question.

hydrotropes

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that are considered here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

• - glycerol;
• - Alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, buty lenglycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecule lar weight from 100 to 1,000 daltons;
• - Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 as for example technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight;
• - Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethy lolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;  
• - Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as for example methyl and butyl glucoside;
• Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol,
• - Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose;
• - aminosugars such as glucamine;
• - Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, Parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and those under the name Surfacine® be knew silver complexes and those in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance led further substance classes.

Perfume oils and flavors

Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang- Ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, Caraway, juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (mace, ange lica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, Rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and Twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, Myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials are also possible, as with for example civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are Pro products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. olfactory Compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert.- Butylcyclohexylacetate, Linalylacetat, Dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetat, Phenylethylacetat, Lina lylbenzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropi onate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and the alde hyden z. B. the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronel lyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the keto z. B. the Jonone, α-isomethyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, Citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol Hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balms. To be favoured however, mixtures of different fragrances are used, which together make an appealing  Generate fragrance. Also essential oils of lower volatility, mostly as an aro Mac components are used as perfume oils, e.g. B. sage oil, chamomile oil, Clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, Oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, Benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclover valley, lavandin oil, Muscat sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzy Lacetat, Rosenoxid, Romilllat, Irotyl and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

The flavors include, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, anise oil, star anise oil, Küm mel oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like in question.

dyes

Suitable dyes are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes are used, such as those used in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" the dye commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Che mie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106 are compiled. Examples are cooking ale red A (C.I. 16255), Patent Blue V (C.I. 42051), Indigotin (C.I. 73015), Chlorophyllin (C.I. 75810), Chi noling yellow (C.I. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.I. 77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.I. 69800) and madder lacquer (C.I. 58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. This color substances are usually in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the whole mixture, used.

The total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight. based on the mean - amount. The preparation of the agents can be done by conventional cold or Hot processes take place; preferably one works according to the phase inversion temperature Method.  

Examples

Various emulsions were made using the PF technique and over a period of time stored at 20 or 40 ° C for 1 to 4 weeks. The viscosity was determined according to the Brookfield Method (20 ° C,% rpm, spindle 1) determined the ubiquinone content by HPLC. The results nisse are summarized in Table 1. Examples 1 to 3 are according to the invention, the Examples V1 to V3 are used for comparison. It can be seen that the accessories according to the invention riding using the emulsifier mixture of alkyl oligoglucoside and polyhydro xystearate are much more stable and have a higher temperature load Have active content of ubiquinone.

Table 1

Stability of emulsions (quantities as% by weight)

Claims (8)

1. Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations containing

• a) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides,
• b) polyol poly-12-hydroxystearate, and
• c) Bioquinones.

2. Preparations according to claim 1, characterized in that they contain as component (a) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides of the formula (I),
R ¹ O- [G] _p (I)
in which R ^{1 is} an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. 3. Preparations according to claim 2, characterized in that they contain as component (a) alkyl oligoglycosides of the formula (I) in which R ^{1 represents} an alkyl radical having 12 to 18 carbon atoms. 4. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized records that they contain as component (b) polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate. 5. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 4, characterized records that they have components (a) and (b) in a weight ratio of 10:90 to 90:10 contain. 6. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 5, characterized records that they as component (c) ubiquinones, plastiquinones and their derivatives and / or contain mixtures. 7. Preparations according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that they

• a) 0.1 to 30% by weight of alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides,
• b) 0.1 to 30 wt .-% polyol poly-12-hydroxystearate, and
• c) 0.1 to 10% by weight of bioquinones

with the proviso that the amounts given with water and conventional auxiliaries and additives are 100% by weight. 8. Use of mixtures containing

• a) alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides,
• b) polyol poly-12-hydroxystearate, and
• c) Bioquinones

for the production of cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.