DE10033975A1 - Gelled solid cosmetic composition, in the form of a pseudoelastic gel with greater elasticity than viscosity, comprises water-soluble gelling agent and phospholipid - Google Patents

Abstract

Gelled solid cosmetic composition, comprising water-soluble gelling agent (0.3-10 wt.%) and phospholipid (0.2-10 wt.%), the balance being water, additives, carriers and/or active agents, is a pseudoelastic gel with a storage modulus of 6000-10,000 Pa and a loss modulus of 930-1050 Pa.

Description

The invention relates to a cosmetic gel with a specifi visco-elastic behavior.

There are already a large number of clear and unclear gels have been described, often polyacrylates or saponified Fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols and other additives fen can be combined.

From US-A-5085856 an emulsion lipstick is known which a new emulsion system from phospholipids and glyceryl mono- or dialkanoates or contains alkenoates.

EP 374332 describes solid cosmetic W / O emulsions Basis of modified organopolysiloxanes, silicone oil, one solid wax and water.

The task of the invention is to provide a solid cosmetic gels with a high degree of gelation and compared to known solid cosmetic products of a different rheology and improved applicability to the skin of the user. To the possibility of high levels of humectants be guaranteed.

According to the invention there is provided a gelled solid cosmetic composition with specific rheology, characterized by a content of
0.3-10% by weight of a water-soluble gelling agent or mixture of gelling agents,
0.2 to 10% by weight of a phospholipid or phospholipid mixture,
up to 100% by weight of water and other cosmetic auxiliaries, carriers, active ingredients and mixtures thereof,
the gel being pseudo-elastic and for the elastic behavior of the storage modulus is between 6000 and 10000 Pa and for the viscous behavior the loss modulus is between 930 and 1050 Pa. All percentages are based on the weight of the total composition.

Surprisingly, the gel according to the invention has a higher elasticity than viscosity, which could be determined by rheological oscillation measurements with regard to the storage modulus and the loss modulus. There are the relationships storage module G '= τ ₀ / γ ₀ × cos δ and loss module G "= τ ₀ / γ ₀ × sin δ, where δ is the phase shift angle of a shear stress curve τ (t) = τ ₀ × sin (ωt + δ) with controlled deformation (see also A little course in rheology-Oscillation, PHYSICA® Meßtechnik GmbH Stuttgart, Germany; E V11.DOC; 28.8.1991).

The visco-elastic properties mentioned give this Gel at ambient temperature when touching a specific "spongy" touch and certain "rebounding" Properties that are exceptional for cosmetic gels. In addition, when the gel is applied to the skin a feeling of freshness that the application for certain cosmetic Areas particularly favored, for example for perfume gels or gels that are applied after shaving or after sunbathing be turned.

Another special property of the gels according to the invention is their large absorption capacity for humectants and water-soluble active ingredients, which leads to hydration be particularly favored for the skin. That invented The gel according to the invention is not sticky and is not greasy spread easily on the skin and results in its oil-free Embodiment with the corresponding dyes / pigments a non-shiny, very natural makeup.

The water-soluble gelling agents are selected from Agar, carraghenans, alginates, acrylate copolymers, locust beans bread tree flour (carob gum) or propylene glycol alginates or mixtures thereof. The preferred gels are agar in Combination with carob rubber and acrylate copolymers without one restriction on their origin.

The phospholipids are polar lipids. There are two types of Phospholipids: the glycerophospholipids and the sphingolipi de. According to the invention, glycerophospholipi are preferred the monoacylphospholipids, diacylphospholipids, lysophosphates dylcholine, phosphatidylcholine, lysophosphatidylethanolamine, Phosphatidylethanolamine, Lysophosphatidylinositol, Phosphati dylinositol, lysophosphatidylserine, phosphatidylserine, lyso phosphatidylglycerol, phosphatidylglycerol, lysophosphatidyl glycerophosphate, phosphatidylglycerophosphate, lysodiphosphati dylglycerol, diphosphatidylglycerol, lyso-n-acylphosphatidyl ethanolamine, N-acylphosphatidylethanolamine, lysophosphatide acid and phosphatidic acid.

The phospholipids involved can be used alone or as a mixture be introduced. The phospholipids can also be chemical be modified such. B. hydrogenated or hydroxylated. The Phospholipids can be saturated or unsaturated and / or ent be oiled. You can also mix them with other lipids be set such. B. with Biophilic® from Lucas-Meyer or with silica like Phospholipon 50 G® from Nattermann.  

A preferred phospholipid starting material is one which the high percentages of hydrogenated soybean or egg phos contains phatidylcholine or mixtures thereof.

The proportion of the phospholipids can preferably be in the range of 1 up to 5% by weight, preferably in the range from 3 to 5% by weight.

Moisturizers such as Sodium PCA, sodium lactate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, sodium called hyaluronate, aloe vera gel and pyridoxine hydrochloride will. The used as humectants Additives are polyols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol or Glycerin.

The proportion of humectants can range from 0.1 to 12% by weight are preferably in the range from 5 to 12% by weight.

The powders can be found under any cosmetic available Powders can be selected, including pigments, such as minerali pigments, organic pigments, bismuth oxychloride, Mica-titanium complexes and titanium dioxide (rutile or other forms), talc, mica, silica, nylon, methylses quioxane, PMMA, modified starch, kaolin, according to WO96 / 17588 modified kaolin and others.

The proportion of the powder can be in the range from 1 to 20% by weight gene.

The microfine titanium dioxide or zinc oxide with properties of physical UV filter can also act as an effective sun protective components are used.

In the event that an oil phase is introduced, which is not is preferred, these can be oils, esters, waxes and butter as well as active ingredients such as chemical sun filters or Perfume oils. Vegetable oils can e.g. B. his apricot oil, Man del oil, jojoba oil, calendula oil, babassu oil. Also from animal Oils derived from raw materials can be used, such as lanol in or lanolin oil.

Esters are preferably cyclic esters such as C12-15 alkyl ben zoate and highly branched molecules such as Dipentaerythityl Hexa hydroxystearate / stearate / rosinate and cholesteryl / behenyl / Octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate.

Waxes can be beeswax, candelilla wax, lanolin wax, Trilaurin wax. Resins such as PVP / Eicosene copolymer can if incorporated.

In the case of the introduction of 0.1 to 20% by weight of an oil phase Surfactants used are, for example, poly sorbate 80 and sorbitan sesquioleate.

The gel according to the invention can easily be poured into molds and is thanks to its special rheological properties convenient and easy to use. A break of the gel too in thin pen form hardly takes place.

Special applications of the composition according to the invention make-up products such as poured primers (foun dations), covers, form to be applied with a brush stanchions (blushers), eye shadows, compact sun protection products with sun protection factor, compact perfume gels, skin protection products (skin care), after-sun products, after-shave products.

The invention is illustrated below by examples will. All information is given in percent by weight, if nothing else is specified. Processing is similar as with known formulations of this type.

example 1 Makeup foundation

water until 100% Butanediol 15 Nylon-12 5 Agar 0.4 Locust bean gum (carob gum) 0.2 Xanthan gum 0.3 Hydrogenated lecithin 3.5 Pigments (iron oxides and TiO ₂ ) 7 Polacrylamide & C _13-14 Isoparaffin & Laureth-7 3rd Hyaluronic acid 0.3 Protective means q. s. Perfume q. s.

A shear stress curve with controlled deformation was established in the usual way for the product of Example 1. The storage module G '= τ ₀ / γ ₀ × cos δ and loss module G "= τ ₀ / γ ₀ × sin δ were calculated from it, where δ is the phase shift angle of the shear stress curve τ (t) = τ ₀ × sin (ωt + δ ) with controlled deformation, τ is the shear stress, and γ is the shear rate.
Memory module: 7200 Pa
Loss modulus: 980 Pa.

Example 2 Makeup blusher

water until 100% Glycerin 10th PMMA 10th Agar 1.2 Locust bean gum (carob gum) 0.2 Hydrogenated lecithin 1 Pigments (organic pigments and TiO ₂ ) 5 Acrylate copolymers 1 Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.6 Polysorbate 80 1 Triaurine 2nd PVP / Eicosene copolymer 2nd Dimethicone 1 Protective means q. s. Perfume q. s. Memory module 8600 Pa Loss modulus 960 Pa

Example 3 Sun protection compact face cream

water until 100% Propylene glycol 10th Agar 1.2 Hydrogenated lecithin 4th Ultra-fine TiO ₂ 10th Acrylate copolymers 3rd Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.5 Polysorbate 80 1 Octyl methoxycinnamate 2nd C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 2nd Cholesteryl / Behenyl / Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate 4th Lecithin 1.0 Vegetable oil 5 Protective means q. s. Perfume q. s. Memory module 8200 Pa Loss modulus 940 Pa

Example 4 Perfume gel

water until 100% Propylene glycol 1.2 Agar 1.2 Locust bean gum (carob gum) 0.4 Silica 3rd Hydrogenated lecithin 2nd Acrylate copolymers 3rd Perfume 6 Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.5 Polysorbate 80 1 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 4th Candelilla wax 2nd Mica titanium (pearl pigment) 2nd Protective means q. s. Memory module 8500 Pa Loss modulus 960 Pa

Example 5 After-shave compact

water until 100% Butylene glycol 6 Agar 0.7 Locust bean gum (carob gum) 0.2 Allantoin 0.5 Sodium lactate 2nd nylon 3rd Hydrogenated lecithin 1 Acrylate copolymers 1 Locust bean gum (carob gum) 0.3 Carboxymethyl cellulose 0.3 Protective means q. s. Perfume q. s. Memory module 7600 Pa Loss modulus 990 Pa

Example 6 After-sun compact

water until 100% Glycerin 10th Dragonsatol 2nd Sodium lactate 2nd Locust bean gum (carob gum) 0.2 Agar 0.5 Polyacrylamides & C _13-14 Isoparaffin & Laureth-7 3rd Sorbitan sesquioleate 1.5 Polysorbate 80 1 C _12-15 alkyl benzoates 2nd Lecithin 2nd PVP / Eicosene copolymer 2nd Protective means q. s. Perfume q. s. Memory module 8000 Pa Loss modulus 940 Pa

Claims (8)

1. Gelled solid cosmetic composition with specific rheology, characterized by
0.3-10% by weight of a water-soluble gelling agent or mixture of gelling agents,
0.2 to 10% by weight of a phospholipid or phospholipid mixture,
up to 100% by weight of water and other cosmetic auxiliaries, carriers, active ingredients and mixtures thereof,
wherein the gel formed is pseudo-elastic and for the elastic behavior whose storage modulus is between 6000 and 10000 Pa and for the viscous behavior the loss modulus of the gel is between 930 and 1050 Pa. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized ge indicates that they act as gelling agents agar, carraghenane, Alginates, acrylate copolymers, locust bean gum, Pro contains pylene glycol alginates or mixtures thereof. 3. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized ge indicates that they are glycerophospholipids as phospholipids contains, especially lysophosphatidylcholine, phosphatidyl contains choline and mixtures thereof. 4. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized ge indicates that they are hydrogenated soybean as phospholipids or contains egg phosphatidylcholine or a mixture thereof. 5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized shows that the proportion of phospholipids in the range of 1 is up to 5% by weight, in particular in the range from 3 to 5% by weight.   6. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized ge indicates that the level of humectants in the gel is in the range from 0.1 to 12% by weight. 7. Cosmetic composition according to claim 6, characterized ge indicates that the level of humectants in the gel is in the range from 5 to 12% by weight. 8. Use of a gelled solid cosmetic compound setting according to claim 1 in the form of a make-up product, one Cover, a perfume gel or a stick-like after-sun or after-shave product.