CZ410499A3 - Cleansing agent with enhanced moistening capability - Google Patents

Abstract

New personal cleansing and conditioning products disposable use, washable from skin or hair, including water insoluble a substrate comprising a foaming surfactant a conditioning emulsion, respectively. other active ingredients.

Description

Cleaning products with improved humidification properties

Technical field

The invention relates to practically dry, easy-to-use personal cleansing products useful for both cleaning and conditioning the skin and hair. These products are used by the consumer by wetting the dry product with water. The products include a water-insoluble substrate, a foaming surfactant, and a conditioning emulsion, comprising (i) an external phase comprising an oil-soluble agent and (ii) an internal phase comprising a water-soluble conditioning agent. The product effectively delivers a water-soluble conditioning agent to the skin or hair.

The use of a suds enhancing substrate at low surfactant concentrations increases the cleansing capacity and improves the removal of old skin and optimizes delivery and deposition of the water-soluble conditioning agent. As a result, the present invention provides efficient cleaning using a low surfactant concentration and thus less irritant, while providing excellent conditioning benefits by providing both water-soluble and oil-soluble conditioning agents.

The present invention also discloses products comprising various active ingredients for delivery to the skin or hair.

The invention also encompasses a method of cleansing and moisturizing the skin or hair using the products of the present invention, as well as methods of making the same.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Personal cleansing and conditioning products are traditionally sold in a variety of forms such as foams, creams, lotions and gels. These products are formulated to meet the various criteria required by consumers. These criteria include cleaning efficiency, skin feel, softness to hair, skin, eye tolerance and foam volume. Ideal personal cleaners should gently cleanse the skin or hair, cause little or no irritation, and should not dry the skin or hair too often with frequent use.

These traditional forms of personal cleaners have one common problem, which is the balanced cleaning ability and conditioning effect. One solution to this problem is to use použití použití použití použití použití použití použití>> použití φ φ φ φ φ φ «« «« «« «« « φ φφ of separate cleaning and conditioning product. However, this is not always convenient or practical for the consumer, and many consumers would prefer to use a single product containing both a cleanser and a skin or hair conditioning agent. In typical cleaning compositions, it is difficult to formulate a conditioning agent because many of these agents are incompatible with surfactants, resulting in unwanted inhomogeneous compositions. To obtain a homogeneous mixture with the conditioning agent and to prevent loss of the conditioning agent before settling on the skin, additional ingredients such as emulsifiers, thickeners and gelling agents must be used that are added to suspend or emulsify the conditioning ingredients in the surfactant mixture. This leads to the formation of aesthetically pleasing homogeneous mixtures, but often also to a worse deposition of the conditioning agents, since the conditioning agents are emulsified and are not effectively released during cleaning. Many conditioning agents have the disadvantage that they suppress the formation of foam. Suppression of foaming is a problem because many consumers are looking for cleansers that provide rich, creamy and abundant foam.

In addition, traditional formulations are very ineffective in depositing a water-soluble conditioning agent on the skin or hair. It is desirable that both the oil-soluble component (e.g., emollients and lipids) and the water-soluble component (e.g., humectants) are deposited on the skin in order to maximize the acute and chronic skin conditioner action. By suitable formulation techniques, the oil-soluble agent can be deposited on the skin or hair due to their hydrophobic nature. However, settling of the water-soluble conditioning agent with traditional cleaning agents is often difficult because the water-soluble conditioning agent is typically eluted off, leaving only the hydrophobic agent. Attempts have been made to settle a water-soluble agent through the use of multiple emulsions (eg, water in oil in water). Although theoretically possible, this approach is difficult in practice due to the poor storage stability of these products and their non-aesthetic appearance.

The present invention eliminates the problem since surfactants and conditioning agents may be added separately directly to the substrate. In this way, the water-soluble agent can be easily emulsified into the oil-soluble agent and added to the substrate. This simple emulsion remains stable on the substrate and prevents the water-soluble conditioning agent from washing out during the cleaning process, since the water-soluble conditioner is protected within the emulsion. As a result, the present invention effectively settles both water-soluble and oil-soluble conditioning agents on the skin and hair.

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Thus, it is clear that conventional cleaning products attempting to combine surfactant and water-soluble and oil-soluble conditioning ingredients suffer from the disadvantages of incompatibility of the water-soluble and oil-soluble conditioning agent with the surfactant. Clearly, there is a need for the development of a purification system that provides efficient cleaning while simultaneously settling both the water-soluble and oil-soluble agent in a single product.

It is also highly desirable for a ready-to-use disposable product to provide cleaning and conditioning benefits. Disposable products are convenient because they do not require the use of bulky bottles, sticks, containers, tubes and other forms of cleaning and conditioning products. Disposable products are also healthier from a medical point of view than with a sponge, cloth or other multiple-use cleaning tools, since these tools produce bacteria growth, unpleasant odors, and other unwanted characteristics associated with re-use.

Surprisingly, it has been found in the present invention that products can be developed that provide efficient cleaning and conditioning in cost-effective, health-friendly disposable cleaning products. The present invention provides the advantage that it is not necessary to use a separate cleaning and conditioning product. The present invention is highly suitable for use as it is in the form of a practically dry product that is wetted before use.

The present invention relates to dry, disposable personal cleansing products useful for their cleansing and conditioning effects on the skin or hair. These products are used by the consumer by moistening the product with water. The product comprises a water-insoluble substrate, a surfactant and a conditioning emulsion. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the substrate increases foaming at low surfactant concentration, increases cleansing and removal of old skin, and optimizes delivery and deposition of the water-soluble and oil-soluble conditioning agent. As a result, the invention provides efficient cleaning at low surfactant concentrations while providing excellent conditioning effects. It has also been found that these products are useful for providing and providing a wide range of active ingredients to hair and skin during the cleansing process.

It is an object of the present invention to provide a practically dry product for cleaning and conditioning the skin or hair where the products are used with water.

In a further aspect of the invention there is provided a product providing a water-soluble and oil-soluble conditioning agent to the hair or skin.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a product providing a water-soluble conditioning agent to the skin or hair.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a product comprising a water-insoluble substrate, a surfactant and a conditioning emulsion.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a product that is ready to use and is disposable.

Another object of the present invention is to provide products that are soft to the skin or hair.

Another object of the present invention is to provide products useful for providing the active ingredient to the skin or hair during the cleansing and conditioning process.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method of cleansing and conditioning the skin or hair.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide a method for producing the products of the present invention.

These and other objects of the invention will become more apparent from the following description.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

Description of the invention

The present invention relates to finished disposable personal cleansing and conditioning products, comprising:

(A) a water-insoluble substrate (B) a foaming surfactant, and (C) a conditioning emulsion, wherein said product is substantially dry.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates to ready-to-use disposable personal cleansing and conditioning products, comprising:

(A) a water-insoluble substrate (B) a foaming surfactant, and (C) a conditioning emulsion comprising:

(i) an internal phase comprising a water-soluble conditioning agent; and

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(Ii) an external phase comprising a water-soluble agent, wherein said foaming surfactant and said conditioning emulsion are separately or together added or impregnated into said water-insoluble substrate and wherein said product is substantially dry.

In another embodiment, the present invention relates to a process for producing a finished personal cleansing and conditioning product, comprising the step of separately or jointly adding or impregnating to a water-insoluble substrate (A) a foaming surfactant and (B) a conditioning emulsion comprising (i) an internal phase containing a water a soluble conditioning agent (ii) an external phase comprising a water-soluble agent, and wherein said product is substantially dry.

In another embodiment, the invention relates to an emulsifier capable of emulsifying said internal and external phases.

In another embodiment, the invention relates to a method of cleansing and conditioning the skin or hair with the personal cleansing products of the invention.

In another embodiment, the invention relates to a method of depositing a conditioning agent on the skin or hair.

All percentages given herein are by weight and all measurements were made at 25 ° C unless otherwise noted. The present invention may include other ingredients in addition to the described ingredients.

Detailed description of the invention

The personal cleansing products of the present invention are highly effective for cleansing the skin or hair while providing effective deposition of the water-soluble conditioning agent. The present invention is also highly effective for purifying and efficiently settling a water-soluble and oil-soluble agent. These products may also contain other active ingredients to settle on the skin or hair.

Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the substrate contributes significantly to foaming and settling of the conditioning agent and other active ingredients. We believe that increased foaming is a result of the surface activity of the substrate. As a result, significantly smaller amounts of finer surfactants can be used. The reduced amount of surfactant required 9 refers to the reduced drying effect of the surfactant on the skin or hair. Further, a reduced amount of surfactant dramatically reduces the inhibitory effect (e.g., by emulsifying or direct surfactant removal) of surfactants on the deposition of conditioning agents.

Without being bound by theory, the substrate also enhances the deposition of the active ingredients and conditioning agents in addition to the deposition of the conditioning agents in the conditioning emulsions. Since the invention is in dry form, it does not require an additional emulsifier to produce a homogeneous product, which may prevent the build-up of the conditioning agent and active ingredients. In addition, since the conditioners and active ingredients are dried or impregnated onto the substrate, they are directly transferred to the skin or hair by surface contact of the wet product with the skin.

Finally, the substrate also improves cleaning. The substrate may have a different texture on each side, such as a rough and smooth side. The substrate plays the role of an effective foaming and old skin removal tool. By coming into physical contact with the skin or hair, the substrate helps significantly in cleaning and removing dirt, makeup, dead skin and other residues.

By foaming surfactant is meant a surfactant which, when combined with water and after mechanical stirring, generates foam or soaps. These surfactants should preferably be mild, meaning that they provide a sufficient cleansing or detersive effect without unnecessarily drying the skin or hair while meeting the aforementioned foaming criteria.

The terms readily or disposable are used in the present invention in their usual sense, that is, to designate a product which is postponed after one use.

The term water activated indicates that the compositions of the invention are presented to the consumer in a dry state and are used after wetting with water. These products produce soaps or are activated upon contact with water and further mixing.

The term " practically dry " is used herein to refer to a product which is substantially dewatered and generally appears dry to the touch. The products of the present invention contain less than 15% (w / w) water, preferably less than 7.5% water, and more preferably less than 3% water, the content being measured under dry conditions, e.g. low air humidity. Of course, one skilled in the art will recognize that the water content of the products of the invention may vary depending on the relative atmospheric humidity of the environment.

The term conditioning emulsion is used herein to combine an internal phase comprising a water-soluble conditioning agent that is coated with an external phase comprising an oil-soluble agent. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the conditioning emulsion will further comprise an emulsifier.

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The term fine, in conjunction with the foaming surfactants and products of the present invention, exhibits a product of the present invention exhibiting skin softness comparable to synthetic soaps based on fine alkyl glyceryl ether sulfonate (AGS) surfactants, i.e., synbars. Methods for measuring the fineness or irritability of surfactant-containing products are based on a skin barrier destruction test. In this test, the finer the surfactant, the less the skin barrier is destroyed. Skin barrier destruction is measured in relative amounts of radiolabeled (tritium-labeled) water (3H-H2O), which passes from the test solution through the skin epidermis into a physiological buffer contained in the diffusion chamber. This test is described in T. J. Franz in J. Invest. Dermatol., 1975, 64, pp. 190-195 and in U.S. Patent No. 4,673,525 (Smali et al.), Issued June 16, 1987, both of which are incorporated herein by reference. Other assay methods for determining the fineness of a surfactant are well known to those skilled in the art and can also be used.

The personal cleansing compositions of the present invention include the following essential ingredients: a water-insoluble substrate, a foaming surfactant, and a conditioning emulsion. Other active ingredients may be included both in the substrate and in the emulsion. In addition, the conditioning agents described in the conditioning emulsions section may be added to the substrate separately from the conditioning emulsion. Alternatively, the preferred method is to apply the surfactant, the conditioning emulsion and other active ingredients separately from the substrate.

Water-insoluble substrate

The products of the invention include a water-insoluble substrate. Water-insoluble substrate refers to a substrate that does not dissolve or does not readily break upon immersion in water. The water-insoluble substrate is a tool or means for delivering a foaming surfactant and conditioning component of the present invention to the skin or hair to be cleaned and conditioned. Without being limited by theory, it is believed that the substrate by mechanical agitation produces a foaming effect and also aids in the deposition of the conditioning agent.

A wide variety of materials can be used as the substrate. The following characteristics are desirable here: (i) sufficient wetting force for use, (ii) sufficient abrasiveness, (iii) sufficient porosity, (iv) sufficient strength, and (v) adequate size.

Examples of insoluble (non-limiting) substrates meeting the above criteria include: nonwoven substrates, woven substrates, water-containing knitted substrates, air-containing knitted substrates, natural sponges, synthetic sponges, polymeric crosslinked sieves and the like.

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Preferred embodiments use nonwoven substrates because they are economically advantageous and readily available in a variety of material designs. By nonwoven materials is meant that the layers are composed of fibers that are not woven into a fabric, but rather formed into sheets, carpets or layers. The fibers may be random (i.e., randomly arranged) or they may be carded (i.e. predominantly oriented in one direction). Further, the nonwoven substrates may be comprised of a combination of layers of random and carded fibers.

Nonwoven substrates can be composed of many materials of both synthetic and natural origin. Natural means that the materials are derived from plants, animals, insects or plant, animal and insect by-products. Synthetic means that the materials are obtained mainly from various man-made materials or from natural materials that have been further modified. Conventional base starting materials are typically fibrous webs, including any conventional synthetic or natural textile length fibers or mixtures thereof.

Examples of non-limiting natural materials useful in the present invention are silk fibers, keratin fibers, and cellulose fibers. Examples of (not exhaustive) keratin fibers include those selected from the group consisting of wool fibers, camel hair fibers, and the like. Examples of non-exhaustive cellulosic fibers include those selected from the group consisting of wood pulp fibers, cotton fibers, hemp fibers, jute fibers, flax fibers and mixtures thereof.

Examples of (non-exhaustive) synthetic materials useful in the present invention include those fibers selected from the group consisting of acetate fibers, acrylic fibers, cellulose ester fibers, modacrylic fibers, polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, polyolefin fibers, polyvinyl alcohol fibers, rayon fibers , polyurethane foam and mixtures thereof. Examples of some of these synthetic materials include acrylates such as acrilan, acrylonitrile-based creslana fibers, orion, cellulose ester fibers such as cellulose acetate, amel and acele; polyamides such as nylons (eg, nylon 6, nylon 66, nylon 610 and the like); polyesters such as fortrel, codel and polyethylene terephthalate fibers, dacron; polyolefins such as polypropylene, polyethylene; polyvinyl acetate fibers; polyurethane foams and mixtures thereof. These and other suitable fibers and nonwoven materials prepared therefrom are generally described in Riedel, Nonwoven Bonding Methods and Materials. Nonwoven World (1987); The American Encyclopedia, vol. 11, pp. 147-153 and vol. 26, pp. 566-581 (1984); U.S. Patent 4,891,227 (Thaman et al.), Issued Jan. 2, 1990; and U.S. Patent 4,891,228, incorporated herein by reference.

Nonwoven substrates made of natural materials consist of meshes or layers, which are most often formed from a liquid fiber suspension on a fine wire mesh. See. Hampel et al., The Encyclopedia of Chemistry, Third Edition, 1973, pp. 793-795 (1973); The American Encyclopedia, vol. 21, pp. 376-383 (1984) and G. A. Smook, Handbook of Pulp and Paper Technologies. Technical Association for Pulp and Paper Chemistry (1986), which are incorporated herein by reference.

Substrates made from natural materials useful in the present invention can be obtained from a wide variety of commercial sources. Non-exhaustive examples of suitable commercially available paper layers useful in the present invention include Aitex®, convex air-interleaved cellulose layers having a basis weight of about 71 gsy, available from James River, Green Bay, WI and Walkisoft®, convex air-interleaved cellulose having a basis weight of 75 gsy, available from Walkisoft USA, Mount Holly, NC.

Methods for making nonwoven substrates are well known in the art. Generally, these nonwoven substrates may be air-interleaved, water-interleaved, meltblown, co-formed, spunbonded or carded, wherein the fibers or fibrils are first cut to the desired length from long strands and then deposited on a web through which the fibers are extruded or water. The resulting layer, irrespective of the method of manufacture or composition, is then subjected to at least one or more types of bonding operations to anchor the individual fibers to form an interlocking mesh. In the present invention, the nonwoven layers may be prepared by a variety of processes including water forming, thermobonding or thermobonding, and combinations thereof. In addition, the substrates of the present invention may consist of one or more layers. Multilayer substrates may include films and other non-fibrous materials.

Nonwoven substrates made of synthetic materials useful in the present invention can also be obtained from a wide variety of commercial sources. Examples of (non-exhaustive) suitable nonwoven composite materials useful in the present invention include HEF 40047, an apertured water extruded material comprising 50% rayon and 50% polyester and having a basis weight of 43 g per square yard (gsy), available from Veratec, Inc., Walpole, MA .; HEF 14% -102, an apertured water extruded material containing about 50% rayon and 50% polyester and having a weight of about 56 gs, available from Veratec, Inc., Walpole, MA; Novonet® 149-616, a thermally bonded lattice material containing about 100% polypropylene and having a basis weight of about 50 gsy, available from Veratec, inc., Walpole, MA;

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Novonet® 149-801, a thermally bonded lattice material, containing about 69% rayon, about 25% polypropylene and about 6% cotton, and having a basis weight of about 75 gs, available from Veratec, Inc., Walpole, MA; Novonet® 149-191, a thermally bonded grid material comprising about 69% rayon, about 25% polypropylene, and about 6% cotton, having a basis weight of about 100 gs, available from Veratec, Inc., Walpole, MA; HEF Nubtex® 149-801, a nodular apertured water extruded material containing about 100% polyester and having a basis weight of about 70 gsy, available from Veratec, Inc, Walpole, MA; Keybak® 95IV, a dry-formed apertured material comprising about 75% rayon, about 25% acrylic fibers and having a basis weight of about 43 gsy, available from Chicopec, New Brunswick, NJ; Keybak® 1368, an apertured material comprising about 75% rayon, about 25% polyester and having a basis weight of about 39 gsy, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Duralace® 1236, an apertured water molded material comprising about 100% rayon and having a basis weight of from about 40 gsy to about 115 gsy, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Duralace® 5904, an apertured water extruded material comprising about 100% polyester and having a basis weight of from about 40 gsy to about 115 gsy, available from Chicopee, New Brunswick, NJ; Sontaro 8868, a water extruded material containing about 50% cellulose and about 50% polyester and having a basis weight of about 60 gs, available from Dupont Chemical Corp.

Alternatively, the water-soluble substrates may be polymeric net sponges as described in European Patent No. EP 702550 A1, published March 27, 1996, incorporated herein by reference. Polymeric sponges include many layers of extruded tubular netting fabric prepared from a highly flexible polymer, such as olefin monomer polycarboxylic acid polymers and polyamide polyamides. Although these polymer sponges are designed for use in conjunction with liquid cleaners, these types of sponges can be used as the water-insoluble substrate of the present invention.

The substrate can be transformed into many shapes and forms, including flat pads, thick pillows, thin sheets, spherical tools, irregularly shaped tools having dimensions ranging from a surface area around a square inch to about hundreds of square inches. The exact size will depend on the desired use and product characteristics. Particularly suitable are square, round, rectangular or oval pads having a surface area of from about 1 square inch to about 144 square inches, preferably from about 10 square inches to about 120 square inches, and more preferably from about 30 square inches to about 80 square inches and a thickness of from about 1 mm to about 500 mm, preferably from about 5 mm to about 250 mm, and more preferably from about 10 mm to about 100 mm.

The water-insoluble substrates of the present invention may comprise two or more layers, each having a different texture and roughness. Different textures can arise from the use of different combinations of materials or from the use of different manufacturing processes or combinations thereof. Dual-textured substrates can be made for benefits such as having more abrasive points to remove old skin and a softer side of the absorbent for finer cleaning. In addition, separate layers of substrate having different colors can be produced, thereby helping the consumer to recognize different surfaces.

Foaming surfactant

The products of the present invention typically comprise from about 0.5% to about 40%, preferably from about 0.75% to 20%, and more preferably from about 1% to about 10% (by weight of the water-insoluble substrate) of the foaming surfactant.

By a foaming surfactant is meant a surfactant which, when combined with water and mechanical stirring, generates foam or soaps. Preferably, these surfactants or combinations of surfactants should be mild, meaning that these surfactants provide sufficient cleansing or detersive effects, but without over-drying dry skin or hair, and which still meet the aforementioned foaming criteria.

A variety of foaming surfactants are useful in the present invention, including those surfactants selected from the group consisting of anionic foaming surfactants, nonionic foaming surfactants, amphoteric foaming surfactants, and mixtures thereof. In general, foaming surfactants do not interfere strongly with the deposition of conditioning agents, e.g., are quite water soluble and usually have HLB values greater than 10. Cationic surfactants may also be used as additional optional ingredients, provided that they do not adversely affect the overall foaming characteristics of the desired a foaming surfactant.

Anionic foaming surfactant

Examples of (non-exhaustive) anionic surfactants useful in the present invention are described in McCutcheon, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition (1986), published by Publishing Corporation; McCutcheon, Functional Materials, North American Edition (1992); S. Patent No. 3,929,678 (Laughlin et al.), Issued December 30, 1975, all of which are incorporated herein by reference.

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A variety of anionic foaming surfactants are useful in the present invention. Examples of (non-exhaustive) anionic foaming surfactants include those selected from the group consisting of sarcosinates, sulfates, isethionates, taurates, phosphates, lactylates, glutamates, and mixtures thereof. Among the isethionates, alkanoyl isethionates are preferred, and among the sulfates, alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates are preferred. Alkoylisethionates typically have the formula RCO-OCH 2 CH 2 SO 3 M, wherein R is an alkyl or alkenyl group having from 10 to about 30 carbon atoms and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium. Examples of non-limiting isethionates include alkoyl isethionates selected from the group consisting of ammonium cocoyl isethionate, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl isethionate, and mixtures thereof.

Alkyl and alkyl ether sulfates typically have the corresponding formula ROSO 3 M and RO (C 2 H 4 O) _x SO ₃ M, wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl having from 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, x is from 1 to about 10 and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium , potassium and triethanolammonium. Another suitable class of anionic surfactants are the water-soluble salts of organic sulfuric acids and reaction products of the general formula:

R 1 -SO 3 -M wherein R 1 is selected from the group consisting of straight or branched chain saturated aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals having from about 8 to 24, preferably from about 10 to about 16 carbon atoms and M is a cation. Other anionic synthetic surfactants include the class referred to as succinamates, olefin sulfonates having from about 12 to about 24 carbon atoms, and β-alkyloxyalkane sulfonates. Examples of such materials are sodium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl sulfate.

Other anionic materials useful in the present invention are soaps (i.e., metal salts, e.g., sodium or potassium salts) of fatty acids, typically having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to about 20 carbon atoms. The fatty acids used to make soaps may be obtained from natural sources such as vegetable or animal glycerides (eg palm oil, coconut oil, soybean oil, castor oil, tallow, lard and the like). Fatty acids can also be prepared artificially. Soaps are described in more detail in US. S. Patent No. 4,557,853, cited above.

Other anionic materials include phosphates such as monoalkyl, dialkyl and trialkylphosphate salts.

Other anionic materials include alkanoyl sarcosinates corresponding to the formula RCON (CH3) CH2CH2CO2M wherein R is alkyl or alkenyl of 10 to 20 carbon atoms and M is a water-soluble cation such as ammonium, sodium, potassium or alkanolammonium (e.g. triethanolammonium); The preferred examples are sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium myristoyl sarcosinate. TEA salts of sarcosinates are also useful.

Also useful are taurates that are based on taurine, also known as 2 aminoethanesulfonic acid. Taurates having a carbon chain of between 8 and 16 carbon atoms are particularly useful. Examples of taurates include N-alkyltaurines such as those prepared by reacting dodecylamine with sodium isethionate as described in U.S. Pat. No. 2,658,072, which is incorporated herein by reference. Other (non-exhaustive) examples include the ammonium, sodium, potassium, and alkanolamine (e.g., triethanolamine) salts of lauroyl methyltaurate, myristoylmethyltaurate, and cocoyl methyltaurate.

Also useful are lactylates, especially those having a hydrocarbon chain of between C 8 to C ₁₆ . Non-exhaustive examples of lactylates include the ammonium, sodium, potassium, and alkanolammonium (e.g., triethanolamine) salts of lauroyl lactylate, cocoyl lactylate, lauroyl lactylate, and caproyl lactylate.

Glutamates are also useful as anionic surfactants, especially those having a carbon chain between C 8 and C 16.

Examples of preferred anionic surfactants useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of sodium lauryl sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium trideceth sulfate, ammonium cetyl sulfate, sodium cetyl sulfate, sodium trichloroacetate, sodium lauryl acetate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, myristoyl sarcosinate, lauroyl methyltaurate sodium, cocoylmethyltaurate sodium, lauroylglutamate sodium, myristoylglutamate sodium and cocoylglutamate sodium and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred for use herein are ammonium lauryl sulfate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium lauroyl lactylate and triethanolammonium lauroyl lactylate.

Nonionic foaming surfactant

Examples of (non-exhaustive) nonionic foaming surfactants are disclosed in McCutcheon, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American Edition (1986), published by Publishing Corporation and McCutcheon, Functional Materials, North American Edition (1992), which are incorporated herein by reference.

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Nonionic foaming surfactants useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of alkyl glucosides, alkyl polyglucosides, polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, alkoxylated fatty acid esters, sucrose esters, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

Alkylglucosides and alkylpolyglucosides are useful in the present invention and can be broadly defined as the condensation products of long-chain alcohols, eg, C8-C30 alcohols, with sugars or starches or with a sugar or starch polymer, i.e. glycosides or polyglycosides. These compounds may be represented by formula (S) n -O-R, wherein S is a sugar unit such as glucose, fucose, mannose and gacatose, n is an integer from 1 to about 1000 and R is a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group. Examples of long chain alcohols from which alkyl groups may be derived include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and the like. Preferred examples of these surfactants include those where S is a glucose unit, R is a C 8 -C 20 alkyl group and n is an integer from 1 to about 9. Commercially available examples of such surfactants include decylpolyglucoside (available as APG 325 CS from fienkel) and laurylpolyglucoside (available such as APG 600CS and 625 CS from Henkel). Also useful are surfactants derived from sucrose esters, such as sucrose cocoate and sucrose laurate.

Other useful nonionic surfactants include polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactants, more specific examples include glucosamides corresponding to the structural formula:

AB ¹ 2 II I

R 1 CN- wherein R ¹ is H, C 1 -C 4 alkyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl, preferably C 1 -C 4 alkyl, more preferably methyl or ethyl, most preferably methyl; R is C 5 -C 31 alkyl or alkenyl, preferably C 7 -C 19 alkyl or alkenyl, more preferably C 9 -C 17 alkyl or alkenyl, most preferably C 11 -C 15 alkyl or alkenyl; and Z is a polyhydroxy hydrocarbon group having a linear hydrocarbon chain with at least three hydroxyls directly attached to the chain or alkoxylated derivatives thereof (preferably ethoxylated or propoxylated). Z is preferably a sugar unit selected from the group consisting of glucose, glucose, maltose, lactose, galactose, mannose, xylose, and mixtures thereof. A particularly preferred surfactant corresponding to the above structure is alkyl N-methyl glucosidamide (i.e., the R ² -CO-unit is derived from coconut oil fatty acids). A process for preparing polyhydroxy fatty acid amide formulations is described, for example, in GB Patent Specification 809,060, published February 18, 1959 (Thomas Hedley &

Ltd., US Patent No. 2,965,576 (ER Wilson), issued December 20, 1960, US Patent 2,703,798 (AM Schwartz), issued March 8, 1955, and US Patent 1,985,424 (Piggot), issued December 25, 1934, all of which are herein incorporated by reference. included as references.

Other examples of nonionic surfactants include amine oxides. The amine oxides correspond to the general formula R 1 R 2 R 3 NO, wherein R 1 contains an alkyl, alkenyl or monohydroxyalkyl radical having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, from 0 to 10 ethylene oxide groups and from 0 to 1 glycerin units and R 2 and R 3 contain from 1 to about 3 carbon atoms; from 0 to about 1 hydroxy, e.g., methyl, ethyl, propyl, hydroxyethyl, or hydroxypropyl. The arrow in the formula is a conventional presentation of a semipolar bond. Examples of amine oxides suitable for use in the present invention include dimethyldodecylamine oxide, oleyldi (2-hydroxyethyl) amine oxide, dimethyloctylamine oxide, dimethyldecylamine oxide, dimethyltetradecylamine oxide, 3,6,9-trioxaheptadecyldiethylamine oxide, di (2-hydroxyethyl) tetradecyloxy oxide, 2-dodecyloxy oxide, 2dodecyloxy oxide, 2dodecyloxy oxide. (hydroxypropyl) amine oxide, dimethylhexadecylamine oxide.

Examples of (non-exhaustive) preferred nonionic surfactants for use in the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of C8-C14 glucosamides, C804 alkylpolyglucosides, sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, lauramine oxide, cocoamine oxide and mixtures thereof.

Amphoteric foaming surfactants

The term "amphoteric foaming surfactants" refers to zwitterionic surfactants, which are well known to those skilled in the art of formulation of formulations as a subset of amphoteric surfactants.

A variety of amphoteric foaming surfactants may be used in the compositions of the invention. Particularly useful are those surfactants which are widely described as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines, wherein the nitrogen is in the cationic state, where the aliphatic radicals may have straight or branched chains and wherein one of the radicals contains an ionizable water-soluble group, e.g. sulfonate, phosphate or phosphonate.

Examples of (non-exhaustive) amphoteric surfactants useful in the compositions of this invention are described in McCutcheon, Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition (1986), published by Publishing Corporation and in McCutcheon, Functional Materials,

North American Edition (1992), both of which are incorporated herein by reference.

44

Examples of (non-exhaustive) amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of betaines, sultains, hydroxysultains, alkyliminoacetates, iminoalkanoates, aminoalkanoates and mixtures thereof.

Examples of betaines include higher alkyl betaines such as cocodimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, lauryldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, lauryldimethylalfacarboxymethyl betaine, cetyldimethylcarboxymethyl betaine, cetyldimethyl betaine (available as Lonzaine 16SP from Lonza Corp.), lauryl bis (2-hydroxyethyl) carboxymethyl carboxymethyl carboxymethyl carboxymethyl carboxymethyl betaine 2-hydroxypropyl) alpha-carboxyethyl betaine, cocodimethylsulfopropyl betaine, lauryl dimethylsulfoethyl betaine, lauryl bis (2hydroxyethyl) sulfopropyl betaine, amidobetaines and amidosulfobetaines (where the RCONH (CH ₂ ) 3 moiety is attached to the nitrogen atom of betaine), oleyl betaine (available as amine betaine) Velvetex OLB50 from Henkel) and cocamidopropyl betaine (available as Velvetex BK-35 and BA-35 from Henkel).

Examples of sultains and hydroxysultains include materials such as cocamidopropyl hydroxysultain (available as Mirataine CBS from Rhone-Poulenc).

Preferred for use herein are amphoteric surfactants of the following formula:

OR ²

R ¹ - (C-NH- (CH _{2) m)} -N-R-X

R ³ wherein R ¹ is unsubstituted, saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain alkyl having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferred R ¹ has from 11 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 14 to 18 carbon atoms; m is an integer from 1 to 3, more preferably from 2 to 3, and most preferably about 3; n is either 0 or 1, preferably 1; R 3 and R 3 are independently selected from the group consisting of alkyl having from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, unsubstituted or monosubstituted with hydroxy, preferred R ² and R ³ are CH 3; X is selected from the group consisting of CO 2, SO 3 and SO 4; R ⁴ is selected from the group consisting of a saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched alkyl chain, unsubstituted or monosubstituted with a hydroxy group having from 1 to about 5 carbon atoms. When X is CO 2, R ⁴ preferably has 1 or 3 carbon atoms, more preferably 1 carbon atom. When X is SO 3 or SO ⁴ , R ⁴ preferably has from 2 to about 4 carbon atoms, more preferably 3 carbon atoms.

Examples of amphoteric surfactants of the invention include the following compounds:

• · ··

0> 00

0 0 · 0

0000 00 ·

0 0 ·

0 0 0 0 ·

Cetyldimethylbetain (this material also has a CTFA designation as cetylbetain)

CH ₃ c ₁₆ h ₃₃ -n-ch-co ₂ ch ₃

Kokamidopropylbetain

O CH,

II l ₊ ³

RC-NH- (CH ₂ ) ₃ -N-CH 2 -CO ₂ ch ₃

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Wherein R has from 9 to about 13 carbon atoms

Kokamidopropyl hydroxysultain

CH, OH

II l ₊ ³ I

RC-NH-IC ^ jj-N-CH-CH-CH-CH ₃ SO ₃ wherein R has from about 9 to about 13 carbon atoms.

Examples of other useful amphoteric surfactants are alkyliminoacetates and iminodialkanoates and aminoalkanoates of formulas RN [(CH ₂ ) _m CO ₂ M] ₂ and RNH (CH ₂ ) _m CO ₂ M, where m is from 1 to 4, R is C ₅ -C ₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl and M is Η, an alkali metal, an alkaline earth metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium. Also included are imidazolinium and ammonium derivatives. Specific examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants include sodium 3-dodecylaminopropionate, sodium 3-dodecylaminopropanesulfonate, N-higher alkyllaspartamic acids such as those produced as described in U.S. Pat. S. Patent 2,438,091, which is incorporated herein by reference, and further the products sold under the trade name "Miranol" and described in US Patent 2,528,378, which is incorporated herein by reference. Other examples of useful amphoteric surfactants include amphoteric phosphates such as cocamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate (commercially available as Monaquat PTC from Mona Corp.). Also useful are amfoacetates such as disodium lauroamphodiacetate, sodium lauroamfoacetate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferred foaming surfactants of the invention are those wherein the anionic foaming surfactant is selected from the group consisting of ammonium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium trideceth sulfate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, ammonium laureth sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate triethanolamine lauroyl lactylate and mixtures thereof, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of lauramine oxide;

Φ Φ · · · φ φφΦΦ Φ Φ Φ

♦ Φ ♦ ·

Φ Φ · ··

Φ ΦΦ Φ Φ Φ

Φ Φ Φ

Cocoamine oxide, decylpolyglucose, laurylpolyglucose, sucrose cocoate, Cl2-04 glucosamides, sucrose laurate, and mixtures thereof, and wherein the amphoteric foaming surfactant is selected from the group consisting of lauroamfoacetate disroxide, sodium curoacetoacetate, sodium curoacetoacetate, mixtures.

Conditioner emulsion

The products of this invention include a conditioning emulsion that is useful to provide a conditioning effect on the skin or hair during use of the product. The conditioning emulsion comprises from 0.25% to about 150%, preferably from 0.5% to 100%, and more preferably from 1% to 50% by weight of said water-insoluble substrate. By conditioning emulsion is meant a combination of an internal phase comprising a water-soluble conditioning agent that is closed by an external phase comprising an oil-soluble agent. In a preferred embodiment, the conditioning emulsion will further comprise an emulsifier.

The conditioning emulsion of the invention comprises: (i) an internal phase comprising a water-soluble conditioning agent, and (ii) an external phase comprising an oil-soluble agent. In another embodiment, the conditioning emulsion further comprises an emulsifier capable of forming an emulsion of said internal and external phases. Although an emulsifier capable of forming an internal and external phase emulsion is preferred according to the present invention, it is known in the skin care art that a water-soluble conditioning agent can be enclosed in an oil-soluble agent without the use of an emulsifier. When the water-soluble conditioning agent is enclosed in an oil-soluble agent, thereby protecting it from being washed out during the cleaning process, the formulation within the scope of the present invention.

The oil-soluble agent is selected from one or more oil-soluble agents in such a way that the weighted arithmetic mean of the oil-solubility parameter is less than or equal to 10.5. The water-soluble conditioning agent is selected from one or more water-soluble conditioning agents such that the weighted arithmetic mean of the solubility parameter of the water-soluble conditioning agent is greater than 10.5. It is known from the mathematical definition of solubility parameters that it is possible, for example, to achieve the desired weighted arithmetic mean solubility parameter, i.e. less than or equal to 10.5 for an oil-soluble conditioning agent comprising two or more compounds, if one of the compounds has an individual parameter solubilities greater than 10.5. Conversely, it is possible to achieve a corresponding weighted arithmetic mean solubility parameter, i.e., greater than 10.5 for a water-soluble conditioning agent comprising two or more compounds if one of the compounds has an individual solubility parameter of less than or equal to 10.5.

Solubility parameters are well known to formulation chemists and those of ordinary skill in the art and are routinely used as a guide for determining the compatibility and solubility of materials in the formulation process.

The solubility parameter of a chemical compound, δ, is defined as the square root of the cohesive energy density for that compound. Typically, the solubility parameter for a compound is calculated from the tabulated additive group contributions for evaporative heat and molar volume of the compound components, using the following equation:

Σε

1/2

where Σ, Εί = sum of evaporative heat of additive contributions of groups and Ziinj = sum of molar volumes of additive contributions of groups.

Standard tables of evaporative heats and molar additive group contributions for a number of atoms and atomic groups are collected in Barton, AFM Handbook of Solubility Parameters, CRC Press, Chapter 6, Table 3, pp. 64-66 (1985), which is incorporated herein by reference. . The above solubility parameter equation is described in Fedors, RF, A Method for Estimating Both Solubility Parameters and Molar Volumes of Liquids, Polymer Engineering and Sciences, vol. 14, No. 2, pp. 147-154 (February 1974), which is incorporated herein by reference.

The solubility parameter is governed by the mixed law in such a way that the solubility parameter for the mixture of materials is given by the weighted arithmetic mean (i.e., the weighted average) of the solubility parameter of each component of the mixture. See. Handbook of Chemistry and Physics, 57th Edition, CRC Press, pp. C-726 (1976-1977), which is incorporated herein by reference.

Formulation chemists usually report the solubility parameter in units (cal / cm). Tabulated values of additive group contributions for the heat of discharge in the Handbook of Solubility Parameters are given in kJ / mol. However, these heat-dissipating data can be easily converted to cal / mol using the well-known relationship:

J / mol = 0.239006 cal / mol and 1000 J = 1 kJ · • · ♦ · · · · · · · · ·

See. Gordon, A.J. et al., The Chemist's Companion, John Wiley &amp; Sons, pp. 456-463 (1972), which is incorporated herein by reference.

Solubility parameters were also tabulated for a wide range of chemical materials. Solubility parameter tables can be found in the Handbook of Solubility Parameters cited above. Also see. Solubility Effects in Product, Package, Penetration and Preservation, C. D. Vaughan, Cosmetics and Toiletries, vol. 103, October 1988, pp. 47-69, which is incorporated herein by reference.

External phase conditioning emulsion

The external phase conditioning emulsion comprises an oil-soluble agent. Any soluble agent or combinations of oil-soluble agents having a weighted arithmetic mean of the permeability parameter less than or equal to 10.5 can be used in the external phase. Preferably, the oil-soluble agent is an oil-soluble conditioning agent used to condition the skin and hair.

Examples of non-exhaustive conditioning agents useful as oil-soluble conditioning agents are those selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, petrolatum, branched chain C7-C40 hydrocarbons, C1-C30 carboxylic acid esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, C1 esters -C30 alcohols with C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, C1-C30 carboxylic acid monoglycerides, C1-C30 carboxylic acid diglycerides, C1-C30 carboxylic acid triglycerides, C1-C30 carboxylic acid ethylene glycol monoesters, C1-C30 carboxylic acid ethylene glycol diesters, propylene glycol mono carboxylic acids, propylene glycol diesters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, monoesters and polyesters of sugars with C1-C30 carboxylic acids, polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkarylsiloxanes, cylcomethicones having 3 to 9 silicon atoms, vegetable oils, hydrogenated vegetable oils C4-propylene glycol , C8-C30 alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.

Mineral oil, also known as petroleum liquid, is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons derived from petroleum. See. Merck Index, 10th edition, item 7048, p. 1033 (1983) and International Ingredient Dictionary, 5th edition, vol. 1, p. 415-417 (1993), which are incorporated herein by reference.

Petrolatum, also known as petrolatum, is a colloidal system of uneven-chain solid hydrocarbons and high-boiling liquid hydrocarbons in which most of the liquid hydrocarbons are held within micelles. See. Merck Index, 10th edition, item 7047, p. 1033 (1983), ♦

4 »· · · · · · · · · · · ·

9 9 9 ·

9 9 9

9 9 9

99

Schindler, Drug. Cosmet. Ind., 89, 36-37, 76, 78-80, 82 (1961) and the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 5th Edition, vol. 1, p. 537 (1993), which are incorporated herein by reference.

Straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from 7 to about 40 carbon atoms are also useful herein. Examples (not exhaustive) of these materials include dodecane, isododecane, squalane, cholesterol, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, docosane (i.e., C ₂ 2 hydrocarbon), hexadecane, isohexadecane (a commercially available hydrocarbon sold as Permethyl® 101A by Presperse company, South Plainfield, NJ) . Also useful are C7-C40 isoparaffins which are C7-C40 branched hydrocarbons.

Also useful are esters of C1-C30 alcohols with C1-C30 carboxylic acids and C2C30 dicarboxylic acids, including straight and branched chain materials as well as aromatic derivatives. Also useful are esters such as C1-C30 carboxylic acid monoglycerides, C1-C30 carboxylic acid diglycerides, C1-C30 carboxylic acid triglycerides, C1-C30 carboxylic acid ethylene glycol monoesters, C1-C30 carboxylic acid ethylene glycol diesters, propylene glycol mono esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids C1-C30 carboxylic acids. Included are straight, branched, and aromatic carboxylic acids. Propoxylated and ethoxylated materials are also useful. Examples include, but are not limited to, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, myristyl propionate, ethylene glycol distearate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isodecyl neopentanoate, di-2-ethylhexyl maleate, cetyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, stearyl myristate, stearyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, diisopropyl dilinoleate, caprile / capric acid triglyceride, PEG-6 capillary / capric acid triglyceride, PEG-8 capillary / capric acid triglyceride, and mixtures thereof.

Various C1-C30 monoesters and polyesters of sugars and related materials are also useful. These esters are derived from a sugar or polyol unit and one or more carboxyl units. Depending on the acid and sugar from which they are composed, these esters may be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples of liquid esters include: glucose tetraoleate, glucose unsaturated soybean oil tetraester, mannose tetraesters and soybean oil fatty acid esters, galactose and oleic acid tetraesters, arabinose and linoleic acid tetraesters, xylose tetralinoleate, galactose pentaoleate sorbitol, sorbitol sorbitol ester soybean fatty acids, xylitol pentaoleate,> 99 99

9 99 9

9

9 9 9 9 9

999 9 »·· Sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, sucrose octaoleate and mixtures thereof. Examples of solid esters include: sorbitol hexaesters where the carboxylic units are palmitooleate and arachnidate in a molar ratio of 1: 2, octaester of raffinose where the carboxylic acid residues are linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3, heptaester of maltose where the esterifying carboxylic acids are fatty acids sunflower oil and lignocerate in a molar ratio of 3: 4, octaester of sucrose, where the esterifying carboxylic acids are oleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 2: 6, and octaester of sucrose, where the esterifying fatty acid residues are laurate, linoleate and behenate in a molar ratio of 1: 3: 4. A preferred solid material is sucrose polyester, wherein the degree of esterification is 7-8, and wherein the fatty acids are C18 mono- and / or di-unsaturated and behenic acids, in a molar ratio of unsaturated: behenic 1: 7 to 3: 5. A particularly preferred solid sugar polyester is octaester of sucrose, wherein there are about 7 residues of behenic fatty acid and about 1 residue of oleic acid in the molecule. Other materials include cottonseed or soybean oil esters of sucrose. The ester materials are further described in U. S. Patent 2,831,854, U. S. Patent 4,005,196 (Jandacek);

January 25, 1977, U. S. Patent 4,005,195 (Jandacek), issued January 25, 1977, U.S. Patent 5,306,516 (Letton et al.), Issued April 26, 1994, U.S. Patent 5,306,515 (Letton et. Al.), Issued

U.S. Patent 5,305,514 (Letton et al.) Issued April 26, 1994, U.S. Patent 4,797,300 (Jandacek et al.) Issued January 10, 1989; U.S. Patent 3,963,699 to Rizzi et al.

On June 15, 1976, U.S. Patent 4,518,772 (Volpenhein), issued May 21, 1985, and U.S. Patent 4,517,360 (Volpenhein), issued May 21, 1985, all of which are incorporated herein by reference.

Non-volatile silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes and polyalkarylsiloxanes are also very useful oils. These silicones are described in US Patent 5,069,897 (Orr), issued December 3, 1991, which is incorporated herein by reference. The polyalkylsiloxanes correspond to the general chemical formula R 3 SiO [R 2 SiO] _x SiR 3, wherein R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably R is methyl) and x is an integer up to 500, selected to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available polyalkylsiloxanes include polydimethylsiloxanes, also known as dimethicones, examples (but not exhaustive) of which include the Vicasil® series, sold by General Electric Company and the Dow Corning® 200 series, sold by Dow Corning Corporation. Specific examples of polydimethylsiloxanes useful in the present invention include Dow Corning® 225 liquid having a viscosity of 10 centistoke and a boiling point above 200 ° C and Dow Corning® 200 liquid having a

999 9 Viscosity 50, 350 and 12500 centistoke and boiling points above 200 ° C. Also useful are materials such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, which is a polymeric material corresponding to the general chemical formula [(CH ₂ ) ₃ SiO _1/2 ] _x [SiO ₂ ] _y , wherein x is an integer from 1 to about 500 and y is an integer from 1 to about 500. Commercially available trimethylsiloxysilicate is sold as a dimethicone mixture as a Dow Corning® 593 liquid. Also useful in the present invention are dimethiconols which are dimethyl-silicones terminated with hydroxy groups. These materials may be represented by the general chemical formulas R ₃ SiO [R ₂ SiO] _x SiR ₂ OH and OHR ₂ SiO [R ₂ SiO] _x SiR ₂ OH, where R is an alkyl group (preferably R is methyl or ethyl, more preferably methyl) and x is an integer up to 500, selected to achieve the desired molecular weight. Commercially available dimethiconols are typically sold as mixtures with dimethicone or cyclomethicone (eg, Dow Corning® 1401, 1402 and 1403 fluids). Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are also useful in the present invention, with polymethylphenylsiloxanes having viscosities of from about 15 to about 65 centistokes at 25 ° C being preferred. These materials are available, for example, as SF 1075 methylphenyl liquid (sold by General Electric Company) and 556 Cosmetic Grade phenyltrimethicone liquid (sold by Dow Corning Corporation).

Mineral oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils are also useful in the present invention. Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include sunflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice oil, pine oil , sesame oil, sunflower seed oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, hydrogenated menhadine oil, hydrogenated palm kernel oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated peanut oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated linseed oil, hydrogenated rice bran oil, hydrogenated sesame oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil and mixtures thereof.

Also useful are C4-C20 alkyl ethers of polypropylene glycols, esters of C1-C20 carboxylic acids with propylene glycols, and di-C8-C30 alkyl ethers. Examples (but not exhaustive) of these materials include PPG-14 butyl ether. PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyloctyl ether and mixtures thereof.

Internal phase conditioning emulsion • ·

999 • 9

9

9 *

999

99

9 · 9

9 9

9 9

9 9 9

99

The internal phase of the conditioning emulsion comprises a water-soluble conditioning agent. Any water-soluble conditioning agent or combination of water-soluble agents having a weighted arithmetic mean solubility parameter greater than

10.5. In addition, any of the water-soluble ingredients listed in the Additional Ingredients and Active Ingredients may be included in the internal phase of the conditioning emulsion, provided that the water-soluble component is compatible with the water-soluble conditioning agent and does not cause instability of the conditioning emulsion.

Examples of non-exhaustive conditioning agents useful as water-soluble conditioning agents include those selected from the group consisting of polyhydroxy alcohols, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ureas, pyrrolidone carboxylic acids, ethoxylated and propoxylated C3-C6 diols and triols, alpha-hydroxy C 2 -C 6 carboxylic acids, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated sugars, polyacrylic acid copolymers, sugars having up to 12 carbon atoms, sugar alcohols having up to 12 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. Specific examples of the water-soluble conditioning agents useful in the present invention include such materials as urea, guanidine, glycolic acid and glycolate salts (e.g., ammonium or quaternary alkylammonium), lactic acid, and lactate salts (e.g., ammonium or quaternary alkylammonium), sodium PCA, sucrose, fructose, glucose, eruthrosa, erythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, glycerol, hexantriol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and the like, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-2, PEG.3, PEG-30, PEG-50, polypropylene glycols such as PPG-9, PPG-12, PPG-15, PPG-17, PPG-20, PPG-26, PPG-30, PPG-34, alkoxylated glucose, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, niacinamide, and mixtures thereof. Also useful are materials such as aloe vera in any form (e.g., aloe vera gel), chitin, honey extract, sodium starch coated polyacrylates such as Sanwet (RTM) IM-1000, IM-1500 and IM-2500 (available from Celanese Superabsorbent Materials, Porthmouth, VA), lactamide monoethanolamine, acetamide monoethanolamide, and mixtures thereof. Also useful are propoxylated glycerins as described in U.S. Patent 4,976,953 (Orr et al.), Issued December 11, 1990, which is incorporated herein by reference.

The internal phase may also optionally contain water. Just as much water is needed to dissolve the water-soluble conditioning agent. Generally, the amount of water will vary depending on the material to be dissolved, e.g., water solubility and rheology. For example, water-soluble agents that are solid or very viscous at processing temperature require more water than materials that are liquid or less viscous at processing temperature.

0 «

0

0 • · 0 • ··· # • ·

0 ·· ·

000

0 «

0 • »

0 · ·

0 0

0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 00

Similarly, water-soluble conditioning agents having high water solubility require less water than less water-soluble conditioning agents.

The internal phase may optionally contain other water-soluble or water-dispersible materials that do not adversely affect the stability of the conditioning emulsion. One such material is a water-soluble electrolyte. The dissolved electrolyte minimizes the tendency of the materials present in the oil phase to dissolve also in the aqueous phase. Any electrolyte capable of affecting the ionic strength of the internal phase can be used. Suitable electrolytes include water-soluble mono-, di- or trivalent inorganic salts, such as water-soluble halides, such as alkali and alkaline earth metal chlorides, nitrates and sulfates. Examples of such electrolytes include sodium chloride, calcium chloride, sodium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, and sodium bicarbonate. The electrolyte will typically be present at concentrations ranging from about 1 to about 20% of the internal phase.

Another water-soluble or water-dispersible material that may be present in the internal phase includes thickeners and viscosity modifiers. Suitable thickeners and viscosity modifiers include water-soluble polyacrylate and hydrophobically modified polyacrylate resins such as Carbopol and Pemulen, starches such as cereal starch, potato starch, tapioca, gums such as guar gum, acacia, cellulose ethers such as hydroxymethyl cellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose etc. These thickeners and viscosity modifiers will typically be present at concentrations ranging from about 0.05 to about 0.5% of the internal phase.

Other water-soluble or water-dispersible materials that may be present in the internal phase include polycationic polymers to provide steric stabilization at the water-oil interface and non-ionic polymers that also stabilize water-in-oil emulsions. Suitable polycationic polymers include Reten 201, Kymene 557H® and Acco 7112. Suitable nonionic polymers include polyethylene glycols (PEG) such as Carbowax. These polycationic and nonionic polymers will typically be present at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to about 1.0% of the internal phase.

Emulsifier

Preferred embodiments of the products of the invention include an emulsifier capable of forming an external and internal phase emulsion. In the emulsions of the present invention, emulsifiers are included in an effective amount. What the effective amount means will depend on many factors, including the corresponding amount of oil-soluble agent, the type of emulsifier used, the concentration of impurities present in the emulsifier, and similar factors. Typically, emulsifiers 4 · 4 · 4 4 · 4 4 · 4 44 · 4 4

44 4444

Represent from 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to 6% by weight of the conditioning emulsion.

Emulsifiers useful in the present invention are typically oil-soluble or miscible with oil-soluble external phase materials, especially at temperatures at which lipidic materials melt. They should also have relatively low HLB values. Emulsifiers suitable for use in the present invention typically have HLB values in the range of about 1 to about 7, and may include mixtures of different emulsifiers. Preferably, these emulsifiers will have HLB values of from about 1.5 to about 6, and more preferably from about 2 to about 5.

A wide variety of emulsifiers are useful in the present invention and include, but are not limited to, emulsifiers selected from the group consisting of sorbitan esters, glycerin esters, polyglycerin esters, methylglucose esters, sucrose esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates, and silicone emulsifiers.

Sorbitan esters are useful in the present invention. Preferably the sorbitan esters of C16-C22 fatty acids are saturated, unsaturated and branched chain. Because of the way in which they are usually made, these sorbitan esters contain mono-, di-, tri- and the like. esters. Representative examples of suitable sorbitan esters include sorbitan monooleate (eg, SPAN® 80), sorbitan sesquioleate (eg, Arlacel® 83), sorbitan monoisostearate (eg, CRILL® 6, manufactured by Croda), sorbitan stearates (eg, SPAN® 60), sorbitan trioleate (eg SPAN® 85), sorbitan triestearate (eg SPAN® 65), sorbitan dipalmitates (eg SPAN® 40) and sorbitan isostearate. Sorbitan monoisostearate and sorbitan sesquioleate are particularly preferred emulsifiers for use in the present invention.

Other suitable emulsifiers for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, glyceryl monoesters, preferably glyceryl monoesters of C16-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched carboxylic acids such as glyceryl oleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monobehenate and mixtures thereof; C16-C22 polyglyceryl esters of saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids such as polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, polyglyceryl-3-oleate, diglycerine monooleate, tetraglycerine monooleate, and mixtures thereof; methylglucose esters, preferably C16-C22 methylglucose esters of saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acids such as methylglucose dioleate, methylglucose sesquiisostearate and mixtures thereof; C12-C22 saturated, unsaturated and branched fatty acid esters of sucrose such as sucrose stearate, sucrose trilaurate, sucrose distearate (eg Crodesta® F10) and mixtures thereof; C12-C22 ethoxylated fatty alcohols such as oleth-2-, oleth-3-, stereth. ····················

2- and mixtures thereof; hydrogenated castor oil ethoxylates such as PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil, sorbitan ester ethoxylates such as PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate. Polysorbate-80 and mixtures thereof, polymeric emulsifiers such as ethoxylated dodecylglycol copolymer and silicone emulsifiers such as laurylnethiconin copolyol, cetyldimethycon, dimethicone, dimethicone copolyol, and mixtures thereof.

In addition to these primary emulsifiers, the formulations of the invention may also contain a further emulsifier (co-emulsifier) to provide additional emulsion stability. Suitable emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, phosphatidylcholines and preparations containing phosphatidylcholines such as lecithins; C16-C22 fatty acid salts such as sodium stearate; dialiphatic ammonium salts with long C16-C22 chain, dialiphatic quaternary ammonium salts with short C1-C4 chain such as di-dimethylammonium chloride and di-dimethylammonium methylsulfate, long chain C1 6C22 dialkoyl (alkenoyl) -2-hydroxyethyl, quaternary ammonium salt with short C1-C4 such as tallow-2-hydroxyethyldimethylammonium chloride, dialiphatic imidazolinium quaternary ammonium salts with long C16-C22 chains such as methyl-tallow amidoethyl-2-tallowimidazolinium methylsulfate and methyl-1-oleylamidoethyl-2-oleylimidazolinium methylsulfate; dialiphatic short chain C1-C4, monoaliphatic long chain C16-C22 benzyl quaternary ammonium salts such as dimethylstearylbenzylammonium chloride and synthetic phospholipids such as stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride (Phospholipid PTS from Mona Industries).

Other ingredients

The products of the invention may include a wide variety of other ingredients. Some of these components are listed in more detail below. Particularly useful are various active ingredients useful for providing various beneficial effects on the skin or hair during the cleansing and conditioning process. If the ingredients are compatible with the internal or external phase of the conditioning emulsion, the ingredients may be included in the appropriate phases. This is particularly true with regard to water-soluble active ingredients which are compatible with the internal phase and do not cause instability of the conditioning emulsion. In these formulations, the products are useful for delivering the active ingredients to the skin or hair.

In addition, any of the conditioning agents described above in the sections relating to the internal (water-soluble) and external (oil-soluble) phases of the conditioning emulsion may be added to the substrate separately from the conditioning emulsion.

Active ingredients

The compositions of the invention may comprise a safe and effective amount of one or more active ingredients, or a pharmaceutically acceptable salt thereof.

The term safe and effective amount as used herein refers to an amount of active ingredient high enough to modify the conditions to be treated or to exhibit the desired beneficial effect on the skin but small enough to avoid serious side effects at a sufficiently high effect / risk ratio. according to professional medical opinion. What will be a safe and effective amount of the active ingredient will vary depending upon the particular active ingredient, the ability of the active ingredient to pass through the skin, age, health conditions and skin condition of the user, as well as other factors.

The active ingredients of the invention may be categorized according to their therapeutic effects or their defined mode of action. However, it is to be understood that the active ingredients of the invention may in some cases provide more than one therapeutic effect or may act in more than one way. Thus, the classification herein is for purposes of clarity, and is not intended to limit the application of the active ingredient to a particular application. Also pharmaceutically acceptable salts of the active ingredients may be used according to the invention. The following active ingredients may be useful in the compositions of the invention.

Anti-acne agents

Examples of useful anti-acne actives include keratolytics such as salicylic acid (o-hydroxybenzoic acid), salicylic acid derivatives such as 5-octanoylsalicylic acid and resorcinol; retinoids such as retinoic acid and derivatives thereof (eg, cis and trans); D-containing and L-amino acids containing sulfur and their derivatives and salts, especially their N-acetylderivatives, a preferred example of which is N-acetyl-L-cysteine; lipic acid; antibiotics and antimicrobials such as benzoyl peroxide, octopirox, tetracycline, 2,4,4'trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorbanilide, azelaic acid and its derivatives, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, ethyl acetate, clindamycin and meclocycline; sebostats such as flavonoids and bile salts such as scymnol sulfate and its derivatives, deoxycholate and cholate.

Anti-wrinkle and skin atrophy agents

Examples of anti-wrinkle and skin atrophy agents include retinoic acid and derivatives thereof (eg, cis and trans); retinol; retinylesters; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; D and L sulfur-containing amino acids and their derivatives and their salts, in particular N-acetylderivatives, the preferred example of which is N-acetyl -L-cysteine; thiols such as ethanethiol; hydroxy acids, phytic acid, lipoic acid; lysophosphatidic acid and anti-aging agents (e.g., phenol, etc.); ascorbic acid and its derivatives.

Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory active substances (NSAIDS)

Examples of NSAIDS include the following categories: acetic acid derivatives; phenamic acid derivatives; biphenylcarboxylic acid derivatives and oxicams. All of these NSAIDS are fully described in U.S. Patent 4,985,459 (Sunshine et al.), Issued January 15, 1991, incorporated herein by reference. Examples of useful NSAIDS include acetylsalicylic acid, ibuprofen, naproxen, benoxaprofen, flurbiprofen, phenoprofen, fenbufen, ketoprofen, indoprofen, pirprofen, carprofen, oxaprozin, pranoprofen, miroprofen, thioxaprofen, suprofen, alminoprofen, tiaprofen, tiaprofen. Also useful are steroidal anti-inflammatory agents including hydrocortisone and the like.

Local anesthetics

Examples of topical anesthetics include benzocaine, lidocaine, bupivacaine, chloroprocaine, dibucaine, etidocaine, mepivacaine, tetracaine, dyclonin, hexylcaine, procaine, cocaine, ketamine, proxamine, phenol, and pharmaceutically acceptable salts thereof.

Synthetic tanning agents and accelerators

Examples of synthetic tanning agents and accelerators include dihydroxyacetone, tyrosine, tyrosine esters such as ethyl tyrosinate and phospho-DOPA.

Antimicrobial agents and antifungal agents

Examples of antimicrobial agents and antifungal agents include β-lactam drugs, quinolone drugs, ciprofloxacin, norfloxacin, tetracycline, erythromycin, amikacin, 2,4,4'trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichloroethanol, phenoxyethanol, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol , phenoxyisopropanol, doxycycline, capreomycin, chlorhexidine, chlortetracycline, oxytetracycline, clindamycin, ethambutol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole, pentamidine, gentamicin, kanamycin, lineomycin, methacycline, methenmicin, minocycline, minocycline, minocycline , erythromycin, zinc erythromycin, erythromycin estolate, erythromycin stearate, amikacin sulfate, deoxycycline hydrochloride, capreomycin sulfate, chlorhexidine gluconate, chlorhexidine hydrochloride, chlortetracycline hydrochloride, oxytetracycline hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride, clindamycin hydrochloride Kanamycin Sulfate, Lineomycin Hydrochloride, Methacycline Hydrochloride, Methenamine

9

9 9 9 • 9 9 9 9 «hippurate, methenamine mandelate, minocycline hydrochloride, neomycin sulphate, netilmicin sulphate, paromomycin sulphate, streptomycin sulphate, tobramycin sulphate, miconazole hydrochloride, amanfadine hydrochloride, amanfadine sulphate, octopiroxine, parachlorometaxine, parachloromethaxine, parachloromethaxine pyrithione and clotrimazole.

Preferred examples of active ingredients useful in the present invention are those selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, acetylsalicylic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, cis-retinoic acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, ascorbic acid and its derivatives, phytic acid, N-acetylL-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid, arachidonic acid, benzoylperoxide, tetracycline, ibuprofen, naproxen, hydrocortisone, acetominophen, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'trichlorocarbamilide, octopirox, lidocaine hydrochloride, clotrimazole, miconazole, neocycin sulfate and mixtures thereof.

Sunscreens

Sunscreening agents are also useful in the present invention. A wide variety of these agents are described in US Patent 5,087,445 (Haffey et al.), Issued February 11, 1992, US Patent 5,073,372 (Turner et al.), Issued December 17, 1991, US Patent 5,073,371 (Turner et al.), Issued On December 17, 1991 and in Segarin et al., Chapter Vin, p. 189 et seq., Cosmetics Science and Technology, all of which are incorporated herein by reference. Examples of (non-exhaustive) sunscreens useful in the compositions of this invention are those selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl N, N-dimethyl-p-aminobenzoate, p -aminobenzoic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, octocrylene, oxybenzone, homomethyl salicylate, octylsalicylate, 4,4'-methoxy-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 3-benzylidene camphor, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, , silica, iron oxide and mixtures thereof. Other useful sunscreens are those described in US Patent 4,937,370 (Sabatelli), issued June 26, 1990, US Patent 4,999,186 (Sabatelli et al.), Issued March 12, 1991, both of which are incorporated herein by reference. . Particularly preferred examples thereof include those selected from the group consisting of 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone ester and 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid, 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane ester and 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid. 9 9 9

9 9 ·

9 9 9 9 · 9 9 Acid, 2-hydroxy-4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) benzophenone ester and 4-N, N- (2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acid, 4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) dibenzoylmethane ester and 4N, N- ( 2-ethylhexyl) methylaminobenzoic acids and mixtures thereof. The exact amount of sunscreen agents that can be used will vary depending upon the particular substance selected and the desired Sun Protection Factor (SPF) to be achieved. SPF is commonly used as a measure of sun protection. See. Federal Register, vol. 43, no. 166, pp. 38206-38269, Aug. 25, 1978, which is incorporated herein by reference.

Examples of preferred active agents useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, cis-retinoic acid, trans-retinoic acid, retinol, retinyl palmitate, ascorbic acid, phthalic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine , azelaic acid, resorcinol, ibuprofen, naproxen, hydrocortisone, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3,4,4'trichlorocarbanilide, 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate, oxybenzone, 2 -phenylbenzimidozole-5sulfonic acid, dihydroxyacetone and mixtures thereof.

Cationic surfactants

The products of the invention may also optionally contain one or more cationic surfactants, provided that these materials are selected so as not to interfere with the overall lathering ability desired for the lathering surfactant.

Examples of non-exhaustive cationic surfactants useful in the present invention are described in McCutcheon's Detergents and Emulsifiers, North American edition (1986), published by Publishing Corporation and in McCutcheon's Functional Materials, North American Edition (1992), both of which are incorporated herein by reference. ..

Examples of (non-exhaustive) cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include cationic alkyl ammonium salts of the general formula:

R1R2R3R4NX 'wherein R] is selected from alkyl groups having from 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, or aromatic, aryl or alkaryl groups having from 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, _R2, R3 and R4 are independently selected from hydrogen , an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or an aromatic, aryl or alkaryl group having from about 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, and X is an anion selected from the group consisting of chloride, bromide, iodide, acetate, phosphate, nitrate, sulfate, methylsulfate , ethylsulfar, tosylate, lactate, citrate, glycolate and mixtures thereof. Except • 9 9 9 9 9999 9999

9999 * 9 9 9

999 9 ···

In addition, alkyl groups may also contain ether linkages or hydroxy or amino substituents (eg, alkyl groups may contain polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol units).

More preferably, R 1 is an alkyl group having from 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, R ₂ is selected from the group consisting of H or an alkyl group having from 1 to about 18 carbon atoms, R ₃ and R 4 are independently selected from H or an alkyl group having from 1 to 3 carbon atoms and X is the same as in the previous paragraph.

Most preferably, R 1 is an alkyl group having from 12 to about 18 carbon atoms, R ₂ , R 3 and R 4 are selected from H or an alkyl group having from 1 to about 3 carbon atoms and X is the same as previously described.

Alternatively, other cationic surfactants include aminoamides wherein, in the above structure, R 1 is alternatively R 5 CO- (CH ₂ ) _n -, wherein R 5 is an alkyl group having from 12 to about 22 carbon atoms and n is an integer from 2 to about 6, more preferably from about 2 to about 4, and most preferably from 2 to 3. Examples (but not exhaustive) of these cationic emulsifiers include stearylamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, stearylamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate, stearylamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride, stearylamidopropyldearyldopropyldimethyearyldopropyldimethylearate.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts of cationic surfactants are those selected from the group consisting of cetylammonium chloride, cetylammonium bromide, laurylammonium chloride, laurylammonium bromide, stearylammonium chloride, sterylammonium bromide, cetyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyldimethylammonium ammonium, , cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, lauryl ammonium chloride, lauryl trimethyl ammonium bromide, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium bromide, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyldimethylcetyldilůjdimethylamonium chloride, dicetylamoniumchlorid, dicetylamonium bromide, dilauryl ammonium chloride, dilauryl ammonium bromide, distearyl ammonium chloride, distearyl ammonium bromide, dicetyl methyl ammonium chloride, dicetyl methyl ammonium bromide, dilauryl chloride, dilaurylmethylammonium bromide, distearylmethylam onium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, distearylmethylammonium bromide and mixtures thereof. Other quaternary ammonium salts include those having a C12 to C22 carbon chain that is derived from tallow fatty acids or from coconut fatty acids. The term tallow describes an alkyl group derived from tallow fatty acids (usually hydrogenated tallow fatty acids), which generally contain mixtures of alkyl chains in the range of 06 to C 18. The term coconut describes an alkyl group derived from coconut fatty acids, which are generally mixtures of alkyl chains 02 to 04. Examples of quaternary ammonium salts derived from tallow and coconut sources include di-dimethylammonium chloride, di-dimethylammonium methyl sulfate, di (hydrogenated tallow) dimethylammonium chloride, di (hydrogenated tallow) dimethylammonium acetate, di-dipropylammonium phosphate, di-dimethylammonium nitrate, di (cocoalkyl) dimethylammonium chloride, di (cocosalkyl) dimethylammonium bromide, tallowammonium chloride, cocamammonium chloride, stearamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, stearamidopropyl dimethyl mydimide, stearamidopropyl dimethyl mydimide) dimethylcetearylammonium tosylate, stearamidopropyldimethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethylammonium lactate and mixtures thereof.

Preferred cationic surfactants useful herein include those selected from the group consisting of dilauryldimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, dimyristyldimethylammonium chloride, dipalmityldimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

Other optional ingredients

The compositions of the invention may contain a wide variety of other optional ingredients. These additional components should be pharmaceutically acceptable. The GTFA Cosmetic Ingredients Handbook, Second Edition, 1992, incorporated herein by reference, describes a wide, unrestricted spectrum of cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the skin care industry that are suitable for use in the compositions of the invention. Examples of (not exhaustive) functional groups of the ingredients are described on page 537 in this reference. Examples of these and other functional classes include: abrasives, absorbents, anticoagulants, antioxidants, vitamins, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, appearance adjusting agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, colorants, cosmetic astringents, cosmetic biocides, denaturing agents, drug astringents, external analgesics, film formers, fragrances, humectants, opacifiers, pH adjusters, preservatives, propellants, reducing agents, skin whitening agents and sunscreen agents.

• 99 99

9 9 9 9 9

9 9 9 9 9

9999999 9 99 99 99 9

9 9 9 9 9

9 9 ·· · · 9 9 9 9

Also useful in the present invention are aesthetic agents such as fragrances, pigments, coloring agents, oils, touch-enhancing agents, astringents, soothing agents and skin healing agents.

Production methods

The disposable personal care cleansing and conditioning products of the present invention are produced by separately or simultaneously adding the foaming surfactant and conditioning emulsion to or impregnating the water-insoluble substrate, wherein the resulting product is substantially dry. Separately, it is meant that surfactants and conditioning agents may be added sequentially, in other words, without first being combined. Simultaneously, it is meant that surfactants and conditioning agents may be added simultaneously, either by first combining them together or not.

For example, the foaming surfactants may first be added to or impregnated with the water-insoluble substrate, followed by the conditioning emulsion or vice versa. Alternatively, foaming surfactants and conditioning emulsions may be added or impregnated into the water-insoluble substrate at the same time.

The surfactant, the conditioning emulsion, and any other ingredients may be added to or impregnated with the water-insoluble substrate by any method known in the art, e.g., by spraying, printing, spraying, soaking, soaking, or coating. The other ingredients may be the same as the internal or external phase conditioning emulsion.

In preparing the products of the present invention, a conditioning emulsion is first formulated. Typically this is accomplished by mixing or fitting the components of the oil-soluble external phase and the emulsifier. The specific temperature at which this mixture of oil-soluble agent and emulsifier is heated will depend upon the melting point of the oil-soluble external phase components. Typically, this mixture of oil-soluble agent and emulsifier will be heated to 70 ° C to about 80 ° C before being mixed or otherwise combined with the water-soluble internal phase components. However, heating is not always required to form the conditioning emulsion. The molten mixture of the oil-soluble agent and the emulsifier is then mixed with the aqueous phase components and then stirred to form an emulsion.

If water is used or if moisture is present during the manufacturing process, the substrate to be treated is then dried to be virtually anhydrous. The substrate to be treated may be dried by any method known to those skilled in the art. Examples of known (non-exhaustive) drying methods include conventional ovens, radiant heat sources, microwave ovens, forced air ovens, and heating cylinders or boxes. Drying also includes air drying without incurring thermal energy at a temperature other than normal. Combinations of different drying methods may also be used.

• 4 4 9 9 9 9

Methods of cleaning and conditioning the skin or hair

The present invention also relates to a method of cleansing and conditioning the skin or hair with the cleansing personal products of the present invention. The methods include the steps of wetting a substantially dry, disposable personal cleansing product, including a water-insoluble substrate, a foaming surfactant, and a conditioning agent, with water, and then contacting the skin or hair with the soaked product. In other embodiments of the invention, the products are also useful for delivering various active agents to the skin or hair.

The products of the invention are substantially dry and are intended to be soaked before use. The product is soaked by immersion in water or placed under a stream of water. Foam is generated from the product by mechanical agitation and / or deformation of the product either before or during contact of the product with the skin or hair. The resulting foam is useful for cleansing and conditioning the skin or hair. During the cleansing process and subsequent washing with water, the conditioning agent and active ingredients deposit on the hair or skin. The deposition of the conditioning agent and active ingredients is enhanced by physical contact between the substrate and the skin or hair.

Deposition of conditioning ingredients on skin or hair

The compositions of the invention are useful for depositing the conditioning ingredients of the invention on the skin or hair. In other embodiments of the invention, where the active ingredients are present, the compositions are also useful for deposition of the active ingredients on the skin or hair.

The compositions of the invention preferably deposit more than 2.5 pg / cm ² , more preferably more than 5 pg / cm ² , even more preferably more than 10 pg / cm ^2, and most preferably more than about 25 pg / cm ^{2 of} the skin conditioning component or hair during use of the product.

• · · φ · φ · φ · • · • · • · • · • · • · φ · φ · φ · φ · φ · φ · φ ·

The invention also relates to a method of settling more than about 2.5 pg / cm ² , preferably more than 5 pg / cm ² , even more preferably more than 10 pg / cm ² , and most preferably more than 25 pg / cm ^{2 of} conditioning agent on the skin or hair surface.

Quantification of the conditioning agent deposited on the skin or hair can be measured using a variety of standard analytical techniques well known to those skilled in the art. These methods include, for example, extracting the skin or hair area with a suitable solvent, followed by chromatography (i.e., liquid chromatography, supercritical fluid chromatography, etc.), IR spectroscopy, UV / VIS spectroscopy, mass spectrometry, and the like. Measurements can also be performed directly on the skin or hair using techniques such as IR spectroscopy, UV / VIS spectroscopy, translucency measurement, fluorescence spectroscopy, ESCA spectroscopy and the like.

In a typical deposition measurement method, the product of the invention is soaked with water and squeezed and mixed until foaming occurs. The product is then wiped for about 15 seconds at a location, from about 25 cm ² to about 300 cm ² , preferably from 50 cm ² to about 100 cm ² , on the skin or head that has been previously labeled using an impenetrable marker. The site is then rinsed for about 10 seconds and then allowed to air dry for about 10 minutes. The site is then extracted and the extract is directly analyzed using any of the techniques described above.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments that are within the scope of the invention. In the following examples, all components are listed in active concentrations. The examples are given for illustrative purposes only and are not intended to be limiting to the present invention, as many variations are possible without departing from the scope and validity of the invention.

The ingredients are identified by chemical or CTFA names and all concentrations are in percent by weight.

I. Surfactant phases

44 4 4 4 4 4 4 4

44 44

In a suitable container, the following ingredients are mixed at room temperature. After dispersing the polyquatium salt, the mixture is heated to 65 ° C.

Components Weight percent

Example Example Example Example Example 1 2 3 4 5 Water 100 100 ALIGN! 100 ALIGN! 100 ALIGN! 100 ALIGN! Polykvatemium-10 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25

The above mixture was heated to 65 ° C and the following ingredients were added to the mixture.

Disodium EDTA 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Ammonium laureth sulfate 4.2 4.2 4.2 4.2 - Ammonium lauryl sulfate 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 - Sodium Lauroamfoacetate 2.4 2.4 2.4 2.4 - Sodium Lauroylsarcosinate - - - - 4.0 Sodium Lauroamphodiacetate & Sodium trideceth sulfate - - - - 4.0

After thorough mixing of all the above ingredients, the mixture is cooled to 45 ° C. Add the following ingredients in a separate stirred vessel:

Water 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 Butylene glycol 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 2,0 Glydant plus 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2

After dissolving the glydant plus add this mixture to the first mixing vessel and cool to room temperature. After cooling, apply 1.5 g of this solution to the nonwoven substrate and dry.

Phase 2: Conditioning emulsion

In a suitable container, the following ingredients are mixed at room temperature and heated to 70 ° C while stirring.

SEFA * cotonate 4.65 4.00 4.65 34.40 4.65

SEFA * behenate 0.35 - 0.35 2.60 0.35 · 9 • 9 9 9

99 9 9999 • 99999 9 9

99 9 9999

999 9 9 · 999 99 99

Petrolatum - 1.00

Sorbitan monooleate - - - 3,00 Polyglyceryl 4-isostearate and cetyl dimethicone and hexyl 5.00 5.00 5.00 - 5.00 laurate ^{1 1} available as Abil WE-09 from Glodschmidt SEFA is an acronym for fatty acid ester with sucrose

After heating to 70 ° C, stop heating and slowly add the following ingredients while stirring: Glycerine 90,00 90,00 70,00 60,00 90,00

Panthenol - - 20.00

Cool to room temperature while stirring. Then add 0.17 g of this phase to the substrate already containing the surfactant of the Surfactant Phase. The resulting cleansing composition is used by soaking with water and is useful for cleansing the skin and hair and for depositing the conditioning emulsion on the skin or hair.

In an alternative method of manufacture, the foaming surfactant, conditioning emulsions and other optional ingredients are separately or co-added (or impregnated) to the insoluble substrate by spraying, printing, spraying, wetting or coating.

In alternative embodiments, other substrates such as woven substrates, knitted substrates, natural sponges, synthetic sponges, polymeric knitted sieves and others are used instead of said substrate.

Industrial applicability

The products of the invention, including a water-insoluble substrate, a foaming surfactant, and a conditioning emulsion, are useful as disposable personal care cleansing compositions having a cleansing and conditioning action on the hair or skin.

Claims (10)

PATENT CLAIMS 1. A personal disposable cleansing and conditioning product which is washed from skin or hair, comprising: (A) a water-insoluble substrate (B) a foaming surfactant and (C) a conditioning emulsion, wherein said product is practically dry. 2. The disposable personal cleansing and conditioning product of claim 1 wherein said foaming surfactant comprises from about 0.5% to about 40% by weight of said water-insoluble substrate and wherein said conditioning emulsion comprises from about 0 to about 40% by weight. 25% to 150% by weight of said water-insoluble substrate. 3. A disposable personal cleansing and conditioning product according to claims 1 and 2, wherein said conditioning emulsion comprises: (A) a discontinuous phase comprising a water-soluble conditioning agent selected from one or more water-soluble agents such that the weighted arithmetic mean solubility parameter of said water-soluble conditioning agent is greater than 10.5; an agent selected from one or more oil-soluble agents such that the weighted arithmetic mean solubility parameter of said water-soluble conditioning agent is greater than 10.5; and 4. The disposable personal cleansing and conditioning product of claims 1 to 3, further comprising from 0% to 20% by weight of said conditioning emulsifier emulsifier, capable of forming an emulsion of said discontinuous and continuous phase, wherein said emulsifier is selected from one or more emulsifiers such that the weighted arithmetic mean HLB is from 1 to 7. 5. The disposable personal cleansing and conditioning product of claims 1 to 4, wherein said oil-soluble agent is selected from the group consisting of oil-soluble conditioners. oil-soluble non-condensing agents and mixtures thereof. 6. The disposable personal cleansing and conditioning product of claims 1-5 wherein said oil-soluble conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of fatty acid esters, polyol polyesters, glycerin monoesters, glycerin diesters, glycerin triesters, epidermal and sebaceous hydrocarbons, lanolin, mineral oil, silicone oil, silicone gum, vegetable oil, vegetable oil adduct, petrolatum, nonionic polymers and mixtures thereof, and wherein said water-soluble conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of glycerin, glycerol, propylene glycol , polypropylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ethylhexanediol, hexylene glycols, other aliphatic alcohols, panthenol, urea, cationic polymers, polyols, glycolic acid, lactic acid, niacinamide, sodium PCA, sorbitol and mixtures thereof. 7. A disposable personal cleansing and conditioning product according to claims 1 to 6, wherein said cleansing product further comprises a safe and effective amount of one or more active ingredients selected from the group consisting of anti-acne, vitamins, anti-wrinkle or skin peeling agents, non-steroidal anti-inflammatory active agents, local anesthetics, artificial pickling agents and accelerators, antimicrobial and antifungal agents, sunscreens, antioxidants and mixtures thereof. 8. A method for producing a disposable personal cleansing and conditioning product according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising the steps of separately or co-impregnating or impregnating into the water-insoluble substrate (A) of the foaming surfactant; B) a conditioning emulsion comprising (i) an internal phase comprising a water-soluble conditioning agent and (ii) an external phase comprising an oil-soluble agent, wherein said product is practically dry. 9999 9 9 9 99 999 99 99 9 9 9 9 9 9 99 99 A method of depositing water-soluble conditioning agents on a skin or hair surface requiring moisturizing, comprising the steps of (i) forming a foam from the product of claims 1 to 7 (ii) contacting the skin (iii) with a water wash. A method of care for skin or hair requiring cleaning and conditioning, comprising the steps of (i) soaking with water and forming a foam from the product of claims 1 to 7, (ii) contacting the skin (iii) with a water wash .