CN111712303B - powdered base composition - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic powdered base composition is disclosed comprising fatty acid, organic base and particles having an average diameter of 1-50 microns, wherein the organic base is capable of providing a degree of neutralization of the fatty acid of 5-90%, up to 100% of the organic base is neutralized by the fatty acid, and the cosmetic powdered base composition is anhydrous.

Description

powdered base composition

technical field

The present invention relates to a cosmetic powder base composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a cosmetic powder base composition without caking problems. This powdery base composition can be directly used by consumers for rapid in-situ preparation of skin care products, and the finished skin care products are easy to spread on the skin.

Background technique

Skin care compositions such as skin creams, lotions and balms are well known. Typical skin care compositions can easily contain 60-90% water. That is to say, water accounts for a large proportion by weight in skin care products. Therefore, water accounts for a significant portion of the cost of transporting such commercial products between manufacture and retail. In addition, heating and cooling water during preparation is costly and processing times are often lengthy. Another problem associated with cosmetic products is the instability of some of the more desirable ingredients in such products.

International Application Publication No. WO 03/097003 Al (Unilever) discloses base compositions useful in cosmetic compositions such as skin creams and balms. This base composition can be easily customized by adding suitable active and emotive ingredients to provide the consumer with the desired topical skin care composition. Using this base composition, the user can, for example, prepare cosmetic compositions directly and quickly.

Such topical base compositions are favored by consumers. We have found, however, that when the topical base composition is in powder form, it has a significant tendency to clump. Agglomeration of cosmetic powdered base compositions is not only detrimental to the user's in-situ preparation of skin care products, but also detrimental to the appearance of the powdered base composition. In addition, the application feel of the final skin care product is also very important to consumers. We therefore realized that it was important to address the issue of caking in cosmetic powder base compositions without compromising the smudger feel of the final skin care product.

Contents of the invention

In a first aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic powder base composition comprising a fatty acid, an organic base capable of providing a neutralization degree of 5-90% for the fatty acid, up to 100 % of organic bases are neutralized by fatty acids, and the cosmetic powder base composition is anhydrous.

In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for the preparation of the cosmetic powdery base composition of the present invention, comprising the steps of: (i) providing a mixture comprising a fatty acid and an organic base capable of providing 5-90% of the fatty acid degree of neutralization, and up to 100% of the organic base is neutralized by the fatty acid; and (ii) mixing particles with a diameter of 1-50 microns with the mixture obtained in step (i).

In a third aspect, the present invention relates to a kit of parts for the preparation of a skin care product comprising a cosmetic container, a cosmetic powdered base composition according to the preceding claims and instructions for use of the kit.

In a fourth aspect, the invention relates to a skin care product obtainable by mixing the cosmetic powder base composition of the invention with an aqueous composition.

All other aspects of the invention will become more apparent upon consideration of the following detailed description and examples.

Detailed description of the invention

Except in the examples, or where otherwise expressly indicated, all numbers in this specification indicating amounts of materials or reaction conditions, physical properties of materials and/or uses are to be understood as optionally modified by "about".

All amounts are by weight of the composition unless otherwise indicated.

It should be noted that when specifying any range of values, any particular upper value limit can be associated with any particular lower value limit.

For the avoidance of doubt, the word "comprising" is intended to mean "comprising", but not necessarily "consisting of" or "consisting of". In other words, the steps or options listed are not necessarily exhaustive.

The disclosure of the present invention is considered to cover all embodiments in which multiple dependencies are found in the claims to each other, irrespective of the fact that these claims have no multiple dependency or redundant relationship.

"Diameter" as used herein refers to the diameter in the non-aggregated state unless otherwise stated. For polydisperse samples of particles less than 1 micron in diameter, the diameter refers to the z-average diameter as measured, for example, by dynamic light scattering (see International Standard ISO 13321 ) using an instrument such as a Zetadiameter Nano ^™ (Malvern Instruments Ltd, UK) . For polydisperse samples of particles with a diameter of at least 1 micrometer, diameter refers to the apparent volume median diameter of the microcapsules [D50, also known as x50, sometimes also referred to as d(0.5)], such as using the ISO The required system described in 13320 (such as the Masterdiameterr ^™ 2000 available from Malvern Instruments Ltd) is measured by laser diffraction.

"Anhydrous" as used herein means less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 1%, most preferably 0.0-0.1% by weight of water based on the total weight of the cosmetic powder base composition.

"Water-soluble" as used herein refers to ingredients that dissolve in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure to give a solution with a concentration of at least 5 g/L. "Water-insoluble" as used herein refers to ingredients that dissolve in water to give a solution with a concentration of less than 5 g/L at 25°C and atmospheric pressure.

The fatty acid may be any suitable fatty acid, generally comprising fatty acid moieties with chain lengths from _C12 to _C24 . In certain preferred embodiments, the fatty acids used have a hydrocarbon chain length of 14 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 14 to 20 carbon atoms, even more preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms. More preferably, the fatty acid is stearic acid or palmitic acid or a mixture of both. The fatty acids of the present invention are preferably prepared using Hystric acid which is essentially (typically about 90-95%) a mixture of stearic and palmitic acids in a ratio between 55:45 and 45:55.

Fatty acids may also contain one chain length fatty acid moiety in relatively pure amounts. Although generally saturated, suitable fatty acids may contain unsaturated fatty acid moieties, and may contain fatty acid moieties with some degree of substitution, such as hydroxy fatty acids. However, preferably the fatty acid is selected from the group comprising saturated fatty acids or a combination of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids. Saturated fatty acids refer to unsubstituted saturated fatty acids.

An essential element in the composition is an organic base, which is used to form organic base soaps with fatty acids. The organic base preferably comprises alkanolamine, more preferably selected from triethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoethanolamine, triisopropanolamine and combinations thereof. Most preferably, the organic base is triethanolamine.

The amount of organic base is such as to generally provide for partial saponification of fatty acids, resulting in organic base soaps. The organic base is capable of providing the fatty acid with a degree of neutralization of 5-90%, preferably 7-75%, more preferably 9-60%, even more preferably 11-50%, still even more preferably 12-40%.

Preferably, the total amount of fatty acid and organic base soap is 30-95% by weight of the powdered base composition, more preferably 40-90% by weight, even more preferably 60-85% by weight.

Cosmetic powder base compositions are anhydrous. In the powdered base composition, up to 100% of the organic bases are neutralized with fatty acids. Also included is the case where no organic base is neutralized by the fatty acid. However, to make it easier for consumers to generate skin care products in situ, it is preferred that at least 30% of the organic base is neutralized with fatty acids. More preferably, at least 50%, even more preferably 75-100%, even more preferably 100%, of the organic base is neutralized by the fatty acid in the powdered base composition.

For the sake of clarity, it should be noted that the particles are different from the fatty acid or soap contained in the powdered base composition. That is, the particles are chemically different from the fatty acid or soap contained in the powdered base composition. The particles can be inorganic particles, polymeric particles or combinations thereof. Preferably, the particles comprise silica, titanium dioxide, boron nitride, zinc stearate, talc, mica, magnesium oxide, magnesium carbonate, silicone resins, silicone elastomers, polyethylene, polyacrylates, polymethacrylic acid Methyl ester, polystyrene, polyurethane, polyamide, polylactic acid, cellulose, nylon or combinations thereof. More preferably, the particles comprise silica, silicone elastomer, titanium dioxide, boron nitride, zinc stearate, talc, mica, silicone, polyethylene, polyacrylate, polystyrene, polyurethane, nylon or their The combination. Even more preferably, the particles comprise silica, silicone elastomers, titanium dioxide, nylon, or combinations thereof. Particularly preferably, the silicone elastomer comprises dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone crosspolymer, polysiloxane-11 or their mixture. More preferably, the particles comprise silica, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, titanium dioxide, nylon, or combinations thereof. Most preferably, the particles comprise silica, nylon or combinations thereof.

The particles of the invention have a diameter of 1-50 microns. Preferably, the particles have a diameter of 2-30 microns, more preferably 2.5-20 microns. Preferably, the particles are present in an amount of 2-40% by weight of the cosmetic powder base composition, more preferably 5-30% by weight, even more preferably 10-25% by weight.

In order to solve the caking problem and/or provide a better feel, the weight ratio of the particles to the total amount of fatty acid and soap in the cosmetic powder base composition is preferably 3:1 to 1:30, more preferably 1:1 to 1:10, even more preferably 1:2 to 1:7.

The cosmetic powdery base composition according to the invention preferably comprises a cosurfactant. Suitable co-surfactants may, for example, be selected from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and combinations thereof. Illustrative of fatty alcohols are lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or combinations thereof. Glyceryl stearate and ethylene glycol stearate are examples of fatty acid esters. More preferably, the co-surfactant is a fatty alcohol, even more preferably cetyl alcohol.

The amount of co-surfactant is preferably 0.5-15% by weight of the powdered base composition, more preferably 1-10% by weight of the powdered base composition, even more preferably 2-8% by weight.

The cosmetic powder base composition may contain optional ingredients including whitening pigments, emollients, moisturizers, organic sunscreens, skin lightening agents, fragrances, natural extracts, or combinations thereof, as long as the cosmetic powder base The composition is still in powder form. Preferably, the optional ingredients are solids or water-insoluble liquids at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure.

Whitening pigments are usually particles of high refractive index materials. For example, the whitening pigment may have a refractive index greater than 1.3, more preferably greater than 1.8, most preferably 2.0-2.7. Examples of such whitening pigments are those comprising bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride, barium sulfate, mica, silica, titanium dioxide, zirconia, alumina, zinc oxide, or combinations thereof. More preferred whitening pigments are particles comprising titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, mica, iron oxide or combinations thereof. Even more preferred whitening pigments are particles comprising zinc oxide, zirconium oxide, titanium dioxide, or combinations thereof because these materials have particularly high refractive indices. Still even more preferably, the whitening pigment is selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or mixtures thereof, the most preferred whitening pigment is titanium dioxide. The average diameter of the whitening pigment is generally from 15 nm to 1 micron, more preferably from 35 nm to 800 nm, even more preferably from 50 nm to 500 nm, still even more preferably from 100 nm to 300 nm.

Suitable emollient materials include silicones, hydrocarbons, triglycerides or mixtures thereof. These siloxanes may be organic, silicone- or fluorine-containing, volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar. Particularly preferred silicones include nonvolatile silicones, such as emulsifying and non-emulsifying silicone elastomers. Representative of this class of materials are dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymers such as Dow Corning 9040, General Electric SFE 839 and Shin-Etsu KSG-18. Hydrocarbons may include mineral oil, petrolatum, and polyalphaolefins. Examples of preferred volatile hydrocarbons include polydecanes such as isododecane and isodecane (such as Permethyl-99A available from Presperse Corporation) and isochains from C7-C8 to C12-C15. Alkanes (such as the Isopar series available from Exxon Chemicals). Illustrative, but not limiting, triglycerides are sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, canola oil, soybean oil, castor oil, borage oil, olive oil, shea butter, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof. Mono- and diglycerides may also be useful. Particularly preferred are glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate.

Particularly preferred humectants include petrolatum, aquaporin-operating actives, oat flour, substituted ureas such as hydroxyethylurea, hyaluronic acid and/or its precursor N-acetylglucosamine, hyaluronic acid and/or its Precursor N-acetylglucosamine or mixtures thereof.

A wide variety of organic sunscreens are suitable for use in combination with the essential ingredients of the present invention. Suitable UV-A/UV-B sunscreens include: 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzoic acid, digalloyl trioleate, 2,2-di Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, ethyl 4-(bis(hydroxypropyl))aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate, 2 -Ethylhexyl salicylate, glyceryl p-aminobenzoate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, methyl anthranilate, p-dimethylaminobenzoic acid, or aminobenzidine ester, 2-ethylhexyl-p-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, 2-(p-dimethylaminophenyl)-5-sulfobenzoate Oxazole acid, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, octyldimethyl-p-aminobenzene Formic acid and their mixtures. The most suitable organic sunscreens are 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane or mixtures thereof.

According to the present invention, vitamin B3 compounds (including vitamin B3 derivatives) such as nicotinic acid, niacin or niacinamide are preferred skin lightening agents, most preferably niacinamide.

Cosmetic powdered base compositions may be prepared by any suitable method. However, it is preferred that the process for preparing the cosmetic powdered base composition of the invention comprises the following steps:

(i) providing a mixture comprising a fatty acid and an organic base, wherein the organic base is capable of providing 5-90% neutralization of the fatty acid, and up to 100% of the organic base is neutralized by the fatty acid;

(ii) mixing particles with a diameter of 1-50 micrometers with the mixture obtained in step (i).

The mixture of step (i) is heated to a temperature above the melting temperature of the mixture, preferably in the range of 40-80° C.; then the mixture is cooled to a temperature below the crystallization temperature of the mixture, preferably below 40° C., more preferably below 25° C. ℃. The resulting mixture is preferably prepared in powder form prior to step (ii).

The cosmetic powder base composition may be provided to the consumer in any suitable manner for separate preparation of the cream. Therefore, preferably, the cosmetic powdered base composition is provided in a cosmetic container. The volume of the cosmetic container is preferably 2-250 mL, more preferably 5-100 mL, even more preferably 8-50 mL, still even more preferably 10-30 mL.

Preferably, the kit of parts comprises a cosmetic container, a cosmetic powdered base composition according to the invention and instructions for use of said kit. The consumer can prepare the final skin care product by mixing the cosmetic powder base composition with the water-based composition according to the directions for use. Preferably, the skin care product is produced within 0.1-30 minutes, more preferably within 0.5-15 minutes, even more preferably within 1-7 minutes. The instructions for use preferably include instructions regarding the amount of aqueous composition to be added, more preferably instructions regarding the amount and temperature of aqueous composition to be added, and even more preferably instructions regarding the amount and temperature of aqueous composition to be added and agitation of the mixture Guidance on the Hope Model.

In order to facilitate the operation of the consumer, preferably, the kit of parts additionally includes an aqueous composition physically separated from the cosmetic powder base composition. Preferably, the aqueous compositions are contained in individual packaging units. An individual packaging unit may be part of a cosmetic container, or another cosmetic container.

By aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising at least 5%, preferably at least 15%, more preferably at least 25% by weight of water of the aqueous composition. Preferably, the aqueous composition comprises 30-100% by weight of the aqueous composition, more preferably 50-100% by weight of water. Even more preferably, the aqueous composition is water.

In certain embodiments, aqueous compositions preferably comprise water soluble ingredients. Preferably, the water soluble ingredients are stable in water. Preferably, the aqueous composition comprises polyols. Polyols may be selected from propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, isoprene glycol, ethoxylated Glycerin, propoxylated glycerin, or mixtures thereof. The most preferred polyol is glycerol, also known as glycerin. The amount of polyol may be 0.1-15% by weight of the aqueous composition, preferably 0.4-8% by weight.

The present invention also provides a skin care product obtainable by mixing the cosmetic powder base composition of the present invention with said aqueous composition.

Preferably, the final skin care product comprises fatty acids in an amount of 1-25% by weight of the skin care product. More preferably, the fatty acid is present in the skin care product in an amount of 2-20% by weight of the skin care product, even more preferably 4-15% by weight of the skin care product. The organic base soap is preferably present in the final skin care product in an amount of 0.1-15% by weight of the skin care product, more preferably 0.5-10% by weight, even more preferably 1-8% by weight. Particles of 1-50 microns in diameter are preferably present in the skin care product in an amount of 0.2-8%, more preferably 0.5-6%, even more preferably 1-4% by weight of the composition.

The skin care product preferably comprises 10-98% by weight of the product, more preferably 30-95% by weight, even more preferably 50-92% by weight, most preferably 66-90% by weight of water.

The final skin care product may contain whitening pigments, emollients, moisturizers, organic sunscreens, skin lightening agents, fragrances, natural extracts or combinations thereof.

Skin care products refer to products suitable for topical application to human skin, including leave-on and rinse-off products. Preferably, the skin care product is a leave-on product. As used herein, the term "leave-on" refers to a product that is applied or rubbed onto the skin and left on the skin. The term "skin" as used herein includes the skin of the face (other than eyelids and lips), neck, chest, abdomen, back, arms, underarms, hands and legs. Preferably, "skin" includes the skin of the face (except eyelids and lips) and underarms. More preferably, the skin refers to the facial skin except the lips and eyelids.

The following examples are provided to facilitate the understanding of the invention. These examples are not intended to limit the scope of the claims.

Detailed ways

Example

Example 1

This example demonstrates the caking problem of powdered base compositions.

Powdered base composition A was prepared as follows: 89.79 g of stearic acid, 2.79 g of cetyl alcohol, 6.52 g of triethanolamine and 0.9 g of perfume were mixed and melted at 80° C. and then powdered.

The prepared powdery base composition A was placed in a closed vial. After one week of storage at room temperature, lumps were found in the powdered base composition A. If the powdered base composition A is stored for a longer period of time, for example two weeks, the problem of caking becomes more serious.

Example 2

This example demonstrates the preparation of powdered compositions containing different particles.

Table 1

A pure tapioca starch supplied by Akzo Nobel

B Toray TR-1 supplied by KOBO

C MSS-500/3H supplied by KOBO company

d SUNSIL-TinNatural white from Sunjin Beauty Science

e X.DE TITANE ORGANOPHILE W877 supplied by SENSIENT

A series of powdered base compositions were prepared by mixing freshly prepared powdered composition A as prepared in Example 1 with different granules in a weight ratio of 4:1 (powdered composition A:granules). The final formulation of the powdered base composition is shown in Table 1.

Example 3

This example demonstrates the effect of particle size on the caking properties of the composition.

Table 2

Samples were placed in closed vials and stored at room temperature for one week to assess the clumping properties of the samples. The results are shown in Table 2. Samples 1 to 3, Sample B and Sample C all had no clumping issues.

15 g of water was added to 2 g of each sample in a vial at room temperature. Shake the vial by hand for less than one minute. The resulting product is a homogeneous vanishing cream.

Evaluate how the final vanishing cream feels when applied. When the samples were applied to the skin by hand, the vanishing creams produced by samples B and C formed crumbs or pellets on the skin, indicating a balling problem. In contrast, the skin care products resulting from Samples 1 to 3 spread easily on the skin. The results are shown in the last column of Table 2.

Therefore, particles with a diameter of 1-50 microns can not only solve the caking problem of powdered compositions, but also allow the final skin care product to spread easily when applied to the skin.

Claims (21)

1. A cosmetic powdered base composition comprising:

(a) A fatty acid;

(b) An organic base; and

(c) Particles having a diameter of 1-30 microns;

wherein (i) the organic base is capable of providing a degree of neutralization of the fatty acid of from 5 to 90% (ii) up to 100% of the organic base is neutralized by fatty acids in the composition, (iii) the total amount of fatty acids and organic base soaps is from 30 to 95% by weight of the powdered base composition, and the cosmetic powdered base composition is anhydrous.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the particles have a diameter of 2-30 microns.

3. The composition of claim 2, wherein the particles have a diameter of 2.5-20 microns.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the particles comprise silica, titania, boron nitride, zinc stearate, talc, mica, magnesium oxide, magnesium carbonate, silicone elastomer, polyethylene, polyacrylate, polymethyl methacrylate, polystyrene, polyurethane, polyamide, polylactic acid, cellulose, nylon, or combinations thereof.

5. The composition of claim 4, wherein the particles comprise silica, silicone elastomer, titanium dioxide, nylon, or a combination thereof.

6. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the particles are present in an amount of 5-40% by weight of the composition.

7. The composition of claim 6, wherein the particles are present in an amount of 15-25% by weight of the composition.

8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the fatty acid is stearic acid, palmitic acid or a mixture thereof.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the weight ratio of the particles to the total amount of fatty acid and soap is from 1:1 to 1:10.

10. A composition according to any of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the organic base is selected from triethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoethanolamine, triisopropionaldehyde amine or a combination thereof.

11. The composition of claim 10, wherein the organic base is triethanolamine.

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the total amount of fatty acid and organic base soap is 60-85% by weight of the powdered base composition.

13. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises a cosurfactant.

14. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises a fatty alcohol.

15. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises cetyl alcohol.

16. A method of preparing the composition of any one of claims 1-15, comprising the steps of:

(i) Providing a mixture comprising a fatty acid and an organic base, wherein the organic base is capable of providing a degree of neutralization of the fatty acid of from 5 to 90%, and up to 100% of the organic base is neutralized by the fatty acid; and

(ii) Mixing the particles having a diameter of 1-30 μm with the mixture obtained in step (i).

17. A kit for preparing a skin care product, the kit comprising a cosmetic container, a composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 15 and instructions for use of the kit.

18. The kit of claim 17, wherein the cosmetic container is provided with measurement indicia.

19. The kit of claim 17 or 18, wherein the kit additionally comprises an aqueous composition physically separate from the cosmetic powdered base composition.

20. The kit of claim 19, wherein the aqueous composition is water.

21. A skin care product obtainable by mixing the cosmetic powdered base composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 with an aqueous composition.