CN111603406A

CN111603406A - Cosmetic composition containing penetration enhancer, essence and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN111603406A
Application number: CN202010233290.XA
Authority: CN
Inventors: 邬燕红; 胡新成; 王国安
Original assignee: Hanhoo Cosmetics Co ltd
Current assignee: Hanhoo Cosmetics Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-03-29
Filing date: 2020-03-29
Publication date: 2020-09-01

Abstract

The penetration enhancer in the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer can effectively promote the absorption of effective active substances, so that all substances in the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer can be effectively absorbed through skin penetration, and the cosmetic composition has good effects of resisting ultraviolet radiation, whitening, removing freckles, moisturizing, locking water and improving skin barrier; the essence disclosed by the invention can be effectively absorbed through skin penetration, has an obvious whitening effect, and can effectively reduce the content of melanin in skin, dispel color spots, improve the water locking capacity of the skin and improve the dark and yellow skin; the preparation method of the essence disclosed by the invention is simple in steps and operation, and the formed essence is clear and moist in texture.

Description

Cosmetic composition containing penetration enhancer, essence and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a cosmetic composition containing a penetration enhancer, essence and a preparation method of the cosmetic composition.

Background

Cosmetics, especially skin care products, are mainly spread on the surface of human skin in a smearing mode to achieve the effects of cleaning, maintaining and beautifying, but in order to avoid exogenous molecules which can cause danger to the body, the stratum corneum of the skin forms a strong barrier, and the skin stratum corneum of the body is prevented from permeating through the skin by most exogenous substances while protecting the body, so that the effective ingredients in a plurality of cosmetics are lost and cannot be fully utilized.

In order to achieve the purposes of whitening and removing freckles, the main method is to inhibit the generation of melanin and eliminate the melanin, wherein the synthesis and elimination of the skin melanin mainly comprise the following steps: the extraction and distribution of tyrosine, the synthesis of tyrosinase and the storage of melanin by active melanocytes, the transfer of melanin granules to keratinocyte through dendrite of melanocytes, the melanin granules in the keratinocyte move along with epidermal cells, one part of the melanin granules are discharged along with the falling of a stratum corneum, the other part of the melanin granules are precipitated on a bottom layer, the metabolism is slow and cannot be discharged, color spots are formed, and the generation of skin melanin is caused by various reasons, such as ultraviolet rays, waste gas, active oxygen, endocrine, dietary habits and the like.

In view of the above, there is a need to provide a cosmetic composition and an essence containing a penetration enhancer, and a preparation method thereof, which can solve the problems that active ingredients in cosmetics are largely lost and cannot be fully utilized in a percutaneous penetration process, and pores are easily blocked, skin is not breathable, and allergy is easily caused in a method for reducing skin melanin deposition.

Disclosure of Invention

The cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer comprises the following components in parts by weight:

0.01-10 parts of Hywhite;

0.01-10 parts of glabridin;

0.01-10 parts of tea fermentation product filtrate;

0.01-10 parts of vitamin C ethyl ether;

0.01-10 parts of a penetration enhancer.

In one embodiment, the Hywhite comprises 75-95 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate and 5-25 parts by weight of alpha-linolenic acid.

In one embodiment, the glabridin is encapsulated with cyclodextrin, and the content of the glabrous greenbrier rhizome extract of the effective substance is more than 40%.

In one embodiment, the tea fermentation product filtrate is at least one of a green tea fermentation product filtrate, a white tea fermentation product filtrate.

In one embodiment, the penetration enhancer is bis-diethoxydiethylene glycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate.

The essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

and (2) component A: 0.01-2% of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6; 0.01-2% Simulgel NS; 0.01-1% EDTA-2 Na; 0.1-5% panthenol; 0.1-10% glycerol; 0.1-10% glyceryl polyether-26; 0.01-2% hyaluronic acid; 0.01-2% xanthan gum; 0.1-1% of p-hydroxyacetophenone; 0.1-5% 1, 2-hexanediol; 0.1-5% hydrogenated lecithin; the balance of deionized water;

and (B) component: 1-10% polydimethylsiloxane; 0.1-5% hydrogenated polyisobutene; 0.05-2% bisabolol; 0.05-2% polysorbate-60;

component C is 0.1-2% sym calm; 0.1-1% phenoxyethanol; 1-10% niacinamide; 0.01-5% of tender factor; 0.1-2% SIMULGEL EG; 0.01-1% sodium metabisulfite; 0.01-1% citric acid; 0.01-1% sodium citrate; 0.1-5% inositol; 0.005-1% of essence; 0.01-20% of cosmetic composition containing penetration enhancer.

In one embodiment, the Simulgel NS is a mixed raw material of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-60 and sorbitan isostearate.

In one embodiment, sym calm is a mixture of 1, 2-pentanediol, butanediol, and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid.

In one embodiment, the SIMULGEL EG is a mixture of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate-80 and sorbitan oleate.

The preparation method provided by the invention is used for preparing the essence, and comprises the following steps:

s1, adding polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, (hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-60 and sorbitan isostearate) and deionized water in a formula amount into a vacuum stirring pot, homogenizing for 1-5min, and stirring for 3-8 min;

s2, adding EDTA-2Na, panthenol, glycerol, glyceryl polyether-26, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol and hydrogenated lecithin in a formula amount into a vacuum stirring pot, heating to 75-85 ℃, and completely dissolving to obtain a phase A;

s3, adding polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, bisabolol and polysorbate-60 in formula amount into an oil phase pot, heating to 75-85 ℃ and dissolving completely to obtain phase B;

s4, pumping the phase B into a vacuum stirring pot under the stirring condition, uniformly mixing at the stirring speed of 20-50rpm for 8-12 min;

s5, vacuum degassing for 1-10 min;

s6, reducing the stirring speed, and cooling to reduce the temperature, wherein the stirring speed is 10-20 rpm;

s7, when the temperature is reduced to 40-50 ℃, adding the phase C, homogenizing for 2-3 min, then stirring for 4-7 min, and mixing uniformly;

and S8, discharging, standing, filling and packaging.

The beneficial effects are as follows:

1. the penetration enhancer in the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer can effectively promote the absorption of effective active substances, so that all substances in the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer can be effectively absorbed through skin penetration, and the cosmetic composition has good effects of resisting ultraviolet radiation, whitening, removing freckles, moisturizing, locking water and improving skin barrier;

2. the essence disclosed by the invention can be effectively absorbed through skin penetration, has an obvious whitening effect, and can effectively reduce the content of melanin in skin, dispel color spots, improve the water locking capacity of the skin and improve the dark and yellow skin;

3. the preparation method of the essence disclosed by the invention is simple in steps and operation, and the formed essence is clear and moist in texture.

Detailed Description

The embodiments in the description are only for illustrating the present invention and do not limit the scope of the present invention. The scope of the present invention is defined only by the appended claims, and any omissions, substitutions, or modifications made based on the embodiments disclosed herein will fall within the scope of the present invention.

The disclosure may be understood more readily by reference to the following detailed description of preferred embodiments of the invention and the examples included therein. Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. In case of conflict, the present specification, including definitions, will control.

The term "prepared from …" as used herein is synonymous with "comprising". The terms "comprises," "comprising," "includes," "including," "has," "having," "contains," "containing," or any other variation thereof, as used herein, are intended to cover a non-exclusive inclusion. For example, a composition, process, method, article, or apparatus that comprises a list of elements is not necessarily limited to only those elements but may include other elements not expressly listed or inherent to such composition, process, method, article, or apparatus.

When an amount, concentration, or other value or parameter is expressed as a range, preferred range, or as a range of upper preferable values and lower preferable values, this is to be understood as specifically disclosing all ranges formed from any pair of any upper range limit or preferred value and any lower range limit or preferred value, regardless of whether ranges are separately disclosed. For example, when a range of "1 to 5" is disclosed, the described range should be interpreted to include the ranges "1 to 4", "1 to 3", "1 to 2 and 4 to 5", "1 to 3 and 5", and the like. When a range of values is described herein, unless otherwise stated, the range is intended to include the endpoints thereof and all integers and fractions within the range.

In addition, the indefinite articles "a" and "an" preceding an element or component of the invention are not intended to limit the number requirement (i.e., the number of occurrences) of the element or component. Thus, "a" or "an" should be read to include one or at least one, and the singular form of an element or component also includes the plural unless the stated number clearly indicates that the singular form is intended.

For the purpose of enhancing understanding of the present invention, the present invention will be further described in detail with reference to the following examples, which are provided for illustration only and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

The cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer comprises the following components in parts by weight: 0.01-10 parts of Hywhite; 0.01-10 parts of glabridin; 0.01-10 parts of tea fermentation product filtrate; 0.01-10 parts of vitamin C ethyl ether; 0.01-10 parts of a penetration enhancer.

Specifically, the Hywhite has amphipathy and cell penetrating power, and can enter skin and melanocyte to play a role; glabridin has effects of resisting ultraviolet radiation and whitening skin; the tea fermentation product filtrate has effects of resisting oxidation, scavenging free radicals, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, and whitening skin; the vitamin C ethyl ether can improve the activity of skin cells and increase collagen; the penetration enhancer can effectively promote the absorption of effective active substances.

Thus, the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer can effectively promote the absorption of effective active substances, so that various substances in the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer can be effectively absorbed through skin penetration, and the cosmetic composition has good effects of resisting ultraviolet radiation, whitening, removing freckles, moisturizing, locking water and improving skin barrier.

The Hywhite comprises 75-95 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate and 5-25 parts by weight of alpha-linolenic acid.

Hywhite is a substance prepared by chemically modifying low molecular weight sodium hyaluronate with alpha-linolenic acid, and can enter skin and melanocyte to exert efficacy.

Thus, the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer is ensured to have good whitening, ultraviolet radiation resistance and freckle removing effects.

The glabridin is enveloped by cyclodextrin, and the content of the glabrous greenbrier rhizome extract of the effective substance is more than 40%.

The glabridin is enveloped by cyclodextrin with hydrophilic outer edge and hydrophobic inner cavity, so that the applicability of the formula and the targeted absorption of the skin on the glabridin can be improved.

Thus, the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer is ensured to have good ultraviolet radiation resistance and whitening effect.

The tea fermentation product filtrate may be at least one of a green tea fermentation product filtrate and a white tea fermentation product filtrate.

The early preparation process of green tea and white tea is not fermented, and retains original components, so that it is suitable for fermenting and refining yeast or lactobacillus to obtain tea fermented product filtrate.

Thus, the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer is ensured to have good tyrosinase activity inhibiting and whitening effects.

The penetration enhancer is bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylic acid ester.

The bis-diethoxydiol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate has an amphiphilic structure, and can affect the layer structure of intercellular lipid and promote the penetration of water-soluble components.

In this way, effective transdermal absorption of the cosmetic composition containing the permeation enhancer is ensured.

The physicochemical properties of the various substances in the cosmetic composition containing a penetration enhancer are described in detail below:

the HyWhite is prepared by chemically modifying low-molecular-weight sodium hyaluronate with alpha-linolenic acid, has amphipathy and cell penetrating power, and can enter skin and melanocyte to exert effects; the alpha-linolenic acid is derived from plants, contains essential fatty acid which can not be synthesized by human body, and has the effects of inhibiting tyrosinase activity, stimulating protease to decompose tyrosinase, resisting oxidation and resisting inflammation.

Glabridin is an extract obtained from the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra, and is enveloped by cyclodextrin with hydrophilic outer edge and hydrophobic inner cavity, so that the applicability of the formula and the targeted absorption of the skin on the glabridin can be improved; glabridin has effects of resisting ultraviolet radiation, whitening skin, resisting inflammation, resisting oxidation, scavenging free radicals, etc.

The tea fermentation product filtrate, which may be a commercial product FT01 (from Angel yeast), may also be prepared by the following method: inoculating yeast or lactobacillus, fermenting at 20-30 deg.C with one or two of green tea and white tea as substrate, clarifying, filtering, and refining. The tea fermentation filtrate is rich in tea polyphenol, mineral substances, amino acids and other substances, and through microbial conversion, the tea polyphenol and ester catechin EGCG have stronger biological activity and higher content, and have the effects of resisting oxidation, removing free radicals, inhibiting tyrosinase activity, whitening and the like.

Vitamin C ethyl ether is a vitamin C derivative which is very stable in chemical substances, is a vitamin C derivative which is not discolored, and is an oleophylic and hydrophilic amphoteric substance, so that the vitamin C ethyl ether can easily enter a dermis layer through a horny layer and then is easily decomposed by biological enzymes in a body so as to exert the biological efficacy of the vitamin C, and the vitamin C is involved in the synthesis of collagen and has the effects of scavenging free radicals and resisting oxidation.

The essence comprises the following components in percentage by mass:

The essence comprises active substances, an antioxidant, a humectant, an emulsifier, a penetration enhancer and the like, and the effects of part of components in the essence are specifically described as follows:

glyceryl polyether-26 is a glycerol adduct of 26 moles of ethylene oxide as a humectant, lubricant;

the hyaluronic acid has special water retention effect, can improve skin nutrition metabolism, makes skin tender and smooth, removes wrinkles, increases elasticity, prevents aging, and is a good transdermal absorption enhancer while retaining moisture;

the hydrogenated lecithin has good adaptability and permeability to skin, can increase the softness of the skin and thicken the stratum corneum, and has the function of repairing the skin barrier;

the polydimethylsiloxane and the hydrogenated polyisobutene have strong oxidation resistance and stability, are fresh and fine in texture and can be quickly absorbed by the skin;

the Simulgel NS is a mixed raw material of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-60 and sorbitan isostearate, wherein the hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer is a polymer formed by polymerizing hydroxyethyl acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate;

sym calm is the mixed raw material of 1, 2-pentanediol, butanediol and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid;

SIMULGEL EG is a mixed raw material of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate-80 and sorbitan oleate, wherein the sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer is a copolymer formed by polymerizing sodium acrylate and sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate;

the tenderness factor comprises hydrolyzed yeast protein and semen Canavaliae extract, wherein the weight percentage content of hydrolyzed yeast protein is 30-60%; the content of semen Canavaliae extract is 40-70 wt%. Hydrolyzed yeast protein is one of the signal transduction pathways for the renewal and damage repair of skin keratinocytes; the carob seed extract is rich in amino acids and peptides, can promote hyaluronic acid expression, water filling and water regeneration, and can effectively improve skin hydration and skin luster for water channel and water sealing, so that the tenderness factor has the effects of restoring skin elasticity, tenderness and moisture retention.

Therefore, the essence can be effectively absorbed through skin penetration, has an obvious whitening effect, and can effectively reduce the content of melanin in the skin, dispel color spots, improve the water locking capacity of the skin and improve the dark and yellow skin.

The preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps: s1, adding polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, (hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-60 and sorbitan isostearate) and deionized water in a formula amount into a vacuum stirring pot, homogenizing for 1-5min, and stirring for 3-8 min; s2, adding EDTA-2Na, panthenol, glycerol, glyceryl polyether-26, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol and hydrogenated lecithin in a formula amount into a vacuum stirring pot, heating to 75-85 ℃, and completely dissolving to obtain a phase A; s3, adding polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, bisabolol and polysorbate-60 in formula amount into an oil phase pot, heating to 75-85 ℃ and dissolving completely to obtain phase B; s4, pumping the phase B into a vacuum stirring pot under the stirring condition, uniformly mixing at the stirring speed of 20-50rpm for 8-12 min; s5, vacuum degassing for 1-10 min; s6, reducing the stirring speed, and cooling to reduce the temperature, wherein the stirring speed is 10-20 rpm; s7, when the temperature is reduced to 40-50 ℃, adding the phase C, homogenizing for 2-3 min, then stirring for 4-7 min, and mixing uniformly; and S8, discharging, standing, filling and packaging.

Uniformly mixing and completely dissolving all substances in the phase A, uniformly mixing and completely dissolving all substances in the phase B, uniformly stirring and mixing the substances in the phase A and the phase B, finally adding all substances in the phase C into the mixture of the phase A and the phase B, uniformly stirring and mixing, discharging, standing, filling and packaging.

Therefore, the steps for preparing the essence are simple, the operation is simple, and the formed essence is clear and moist in texture.

Some specific examples are listed below, but it should be noted that the following examples are not exhaustive of all possible cases. And the materials used in the following examples are commercially available unless otherwise specified.

Example 1

And (2) component A: 1% polyacrylate crosspolymer-6; 1% Simulgel NS; 0.5% EDTA-2 Na; 2.5% panthenol; 5% of glycerol; 5% glyceryl polyether-26; 1% hyaluronic acid; 1% xanthan gum; 0.1% of p-hydroxyacetophenone; 5% 1, 2-hexanediol; 0.1% hydrogenated lecithin; the balance of deionized water;

and (B) component: 5% polydimethylsiloxane; 1% hydrogenated polyisobutene; 1% bisabolol; 1% polysorbate-60;

component C is 1% sym calm; 0.5% phenoxyethanol; 5% niacinamide; 2.5% of tender factor; 1% SIMULGEL EG; 0.5% sodium metabisulfite; 0.5% citric acid; 0.5% sodium citrate; 2.5% inositol; 0.5% of essence; a10% cosmetic composition containing penetration enhancer (Hywhite 5 parts; glabridin 5 parts; tea fermentation product filtrate 5 parts; vitamin C ethyl ether 5 parts; penetration enhancer 5 parts) is provided.

Example 2

And (2) component A: 0.5% polyacrylate crosspolymer-6; 0.5% Simulgel NS; 0.2% EDTA-2 Na; 1% panthenol; 2% of glycerol; 2% glyceryl polyether-26; 0.5% hyaluronic acid; 0.2% xanthan gum; 0.2% of p-hydroxyacetophenone; 0.5% 1, 2-hexanediol; 0.5% hydrogenated lecithin; the balance of deionized water;

and (B) component: 2% polydimethylsiloxane; 0.5% hydrogenated polyisobutene; 0.5% bisabolol; 0.5% polysorbate-60;

component C is 0.5% sym calm; 0.2% phenoxyethanol; 2% niacinamide; 1% of tender factor; 0.5% SIMULGEL EG; 0.5% sodium metabisulfite; 0.2% citric acid; 0.2% sodium citrate; 0.2% inositol; 0.2% of essence; 4% of a cosmetic composition containing a penetration enhancer (8 parts of Hywhite, 8 parts of glabridin, 8 parts of tea fermentation product filtrate, 8 parts of vitamin C ethyl ether and 8 parts of penetration enhancer).

Example 3

And (2) component A: 1.6% polyacrylate crosspolymer-6; 1.6% Simulgel NS; 0.8% EDTA-2 Na; 4% panthenol; 8% of glycerol; 8% glyceryl polyether-26; 1.8% hyaluronic acid; 1.8% xanthan gum; 0.8% of p-hydroxyacetophenone; 4% 1, 2-hexanediol; 4% hydrogenated lecithin; the balance of deionized water;

and (B) component: 8% polydimethylsiloxane; 1.8% hydrogenated polyisobutene; 1.8% bisabolol; 1.8% polysorbate-60;

component C is 0.5% sym calm; 0.8% phenoxyethanol; 8% of nicotinamide; 4% of tender factor; 1.8% SIMULGEL EG; 0.8% sodium metabisulfite; 0.8% citric acid; 0.8% sodium citrate; 4% inositol; 0.8% of essence; 18% of a cosmetic composition containing a penetration enhancer (Hywhite 4 parts, glabridin 4 parts, tea fermentation product filtrate 4 parts, vitamin C ethyl ether 4 parts, and penetration enhancer 4 parts).

Example 4

The preparation method of the essence comprises the following steps: s1, adding polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, (hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-60 and sorbitan isostearate) and deionized water in a formula amount into a vacuum stirring pot, homogenizing for 3min, and stirring for 6 min; s2, adding EDTA-2Na, panthenol, glycerol, glyceryl polyether-26, hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol and hydrogenated lecithin in a formula amount into a vacuum stirring pot, heating to 80 ℃, and completely dissolving to obtain a phase A; s3, adding polydimethylsiloxane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, bisabolol and polysorbate-60 into an oil phase pot according to the formula ratio, and heating to 80 ℃ to completely dissolve to obtain a phase B; s4, pumping the phase B into a vacuum stirring pot under the stirring condition, uniformly mixing at the stirring speed of 40rpm, and homogenizing for 10 min; s5, vacuum degassing for 8 min; s6, reducing the stirring speed, and cooling to reduce the temperature, wherein the stirring speed is 15 rpm; s7, when the temperature is reduced to 45 ℃, adding the phase C, homogenizing for 2min, then stirring for 6min, and mixing uniformly; and S8, discharging, standing, filling and packaging.

The cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer of the present invention was tested, and the specific tests were as follows:

test 1: experiment for inhibiting melanogenesis

The purpose of the test is as follows: cosmetic compositions containing penetration enhancers were tested for their ability to inhibit melanin production.

Principle of experiment

Inhibition rate = [1- (sample well absorbance/sample well cell density)/(control well absorbance/control well cell density) ] × 100%

Test protocol

Test substance: a cosmetic composition containing a penetration enhancer (Hywhite 0.01 parts, glabridin 0.01 parts, tea fermentation product filtrate 0.01 parts, vitamin C ethyl ether 0.01 parts, penetration enhancer 0.01 parts), a cosmetic composition containing another penetration enhancer (Hywhite 0.01 parts, glabridin 0.01 parts, tea fermentation product filtrate 0.01 parts, vitamin C ethyl ether 0.01 parts, laurocapram 0.01 parts), 0.01% Hywhite medium solution, 0.01% glabridin medium solution, 0.01% tea fermentation product filtrate medium solution, 0.01% vitamin C ethyl ether medium solution;

and (3) test grouping treatment: divided into test group 1, test group 2, test group 3, test group 4, control group 1, control group 2, control group 3, control group 4, control group 5 and control group. Test group 1, test group 2, test group 3 and test group 4 were supplemented with 0.01%, 0.1%, 1% and 10% of a cosmetic composition medium solution containing a penetration enhancer, respectively, control group 1 was supplemented with 0.01% of a cosmetic composition medium solution containing another penetration enhancer, control group 2 was supplemented with 0.01% of a Hywhite medium solution, control group 3 was supplemented with 0.01% of a glabridin medium solution, control group 4 was supplemented with 0.01% of a tea fermentation product filtrate medium solution, and control group 5 was supplemented with 0.01% of a vitamin C ethyl ether medium solution.

Test procedure

1. Cultured B16 rd generation cells at a density of 1 × 10⁴Inoculating each/mL of the mixed solution in 6-pore plates, and changing the solution after 24 hours of each group of 6-pore plates;

2. adding a test group 1, a test group 2, a test group 3, a test group 4, a comparison group 1, a comparison group 2, a comparison group 3, a comparison group 4 and a comparison group 5 into each group of 6-hole plates respectively, replacing the added solution with a culture medium for the comparison group, and arranging 3 multiple holes for each group;

3. the temperature in the incubator is 37 ℃ and 5% CO₂After incubation for 72h under the condition, discarding the supernatant;

4. adding 1mL of 2.5g/L trypsin digestion solution into each hole, and digesting for 5min at room temperature;

5. then adding the digested substance into 4mL of culture medium to stop digestion, and blowing and beating into single cell suspension;

6. taking 0.5mL as a cell count, centrifuging the rest cell suspension at 1500r/min for 10min, discarding the supernatant, adding 1mL of 1mol/L NaOH solution, incubating in a water bath at 90 ℃ for 2h, and measuring the absorbance at 490nm of an enzyme labeling instrument;

7. the results were recorded and calculated.

Test results

The inhibitory rate of each substance on melanin production is shown in table 1:

TABLE 1

。

Conclusion of the experiment

As can be seen from table 1, the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer of the present invention has a much higher suppression rate of melanin production in cells than HyWhite, glabridin, tea fermentation product filtrate, and vitamin C ethyl ether at the same concentration, which indicates that the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer has a higher suppression ability of melanin production; the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer has a higher intracellular melanin production inhibition rate than a cosmetic composition containing another penetration enhancer at the same concentration, which shows that the penetration enhancer of the present invention is effective in increasing the penetration absorption of the active ingredient in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, and the penetration enhancer of the present invention is selected to have a significant penetration enhancing effect on the cosmetic composition of the present invention.

The essence obtained by the preparation method disclosed by the invention is tested, and the specific test is as follows:

test 2: evaluation test of human body efficacy

The purpose of the test is as follows: the essence prepared by the preparation method disclosed by the invention is tested for moisturizing, whitening and freckle removing effects.

Test protocol

The test substances are specifically shown in table 2:

TABLE 2

。

And (3) test grouping treatment: dividing into test group and control group;

the cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer comprises 0.01 part of Hywhite, 0.01 part of glabridin, 0.01 part of tea fermentation product filtrate, 0.01 part of vitamin C ethyl ether and 0.01 part of the penetration enhancer.

Test procedure

1. Selecting 12 volunteers to carry out double-blind random half-face test, wherein the volunteers are 30-60 years old and live in large cities, are influenced by deep pollution and have dark and rough skin;

2. the 12 volunteers fixed half face in the morning and evening each day and used the corresponding product for 4 weeks continuously;

3. volunteers measured skin melanin index (EI), skin color index b, stratum corneum moisture content (MMV), transdermal water loss (TEWL) of skin using skin melanin and heme tester Mexameter MX18, spectrocolorimeter CM-2600D, skin moisture tester corneometer CM825, skin moisture loss tester before (D0), 2 weeks (D2) and 4 weeks (D4) after product use;

4. the results were recorded and the D2, D4 versus D0 improvement rates were calculated:

the improvement rate = | (measurement after product use-measurement before product use) |/measurement before product use × 100%

Test results

EI. b, MMV, TEWL measurements and statistics are shown in table 3 (mean):

TABLE 3

Description of the test: the moisturizing efficacy of cosmetics is generally evaluated from two aspects of stratum corneum moisture content (MMV) and transdermal water loss rate (TEWL), wherein MMV directly reflects the dryness of skin, and TEWL directly reflects the water locking capacity of skin and indirectly reflects the integrity of skin barrier function. The larger the MMV, the higher the water content of the stratum corneum; a smaller TEWL value indicates a better water-locking capacity of the skin, further indicating a more intact skin barrier function. The whitening efficacy of cosmetics can be evaluated by testing two parameters of skin melanin content, expressed by Melanin Index (MI), and skin color, expressed by Lab value. Smaller MI indicates lower melanin content in the skin, and larger b indicates more yellow skin.

Conclusion of the experiment

The test results show that the skin melanin index, the skin color index b, the stratum corneum moisture content and the transdermal water loss rate of the test group have more obvious changes compared with the comparison group after 14 days and 28 days of use. The essence containing the penetration enhancer has a more obvious whitening effect compared with the essence of the cosmetic composition without the penetration enhancer, and can reduce the content of melanin in the skin and improve the problem of dark and yellow skin. Meanwhile, the moisture content of the dry skin cuticle of the face can be effectively improved, the water locking capacity of the skin is improved, and the barrier function of the skin is improved.

The technical features of the above embodiments can be arbitrarily combined, and for the sake of brevity, all possible combinations of the technical features in the above embodiments are not described, but should be considered as the scope of the present specification as long as there is no contradiction between the combinations of the technical features.

The above examples only show some embodiments of the present invention, and the description thereof is more specific and detailed, but not construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that, for a person skilled in the art, several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present patent shall be subject to the appended claims.

Claims

1. The cosmetic composition containing the penetration enhancer is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:

0.01-10 parts of Hywhite;

0.01-10 parts of glabridin;

0.01-10 parts of tea fermentation product filtrate;

0.01-10 parts of vitamin C ethyl ether;

0.01-10 parts of a penetration enhancer.

2. The penetration enhancer-containing cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the Hywhite comprises 75 to 95 parts by weight of sodium hyaluronate and 5 to 25 parts by weight of alpha-linolenic acid.

3. The penetration enhancer-containing cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the glabridin is encapsulated with cyclodextrin, and the content of the glabrous effective ingredient licorice root extract is more than 40%.

4. The penetration enhancer-containing cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the tea fermentation product filtrate is at least one of a green tea fermentation product filtrate and a white tea fermentation product filtrate.

5. The cosmetic composition containing a penetration enhancer as claimed in claim 1, wherein the penetration enhancer is bis-diethoxydiethylene glycol cyclohexane 1, 4-dicarboxylate.

6. An essence comprising the permeation enhancer-containing cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition comprises, by mass:

and (2) component A:

0.01-2% of polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6;

0.01-2% Simulgel NS；

0.01-1% EDTA-2Na；

0.1-5% panthenol;

0.1-10% glycerol;

0.1-10% glyceryl polyether-26;

0.01-2% hyaluronic acid;

0.01-2% xanthan gum;

0.1-1% of p-hydroxyacetophenone;

0.1-5% 1, 2-hexanediol;

0.1-5% hydrogenated lecithin;

the balance of deionized water;

and (B) component:

1-10% polydimethylsiloxane;

0.1-5% hydrogenated polyisobutene;

0.05-2% bisabolol;

0.05-2% polysorbate-60;

and (3) component C:

0.1-2% symcalm；

0.1-1% phenoxyethanol;

1-10% niacinamide;

0.01-5% of tender factor;

0.1-2% SIMULGEL EG；

0.01-1% sodium metabisulfite;

0.01-1% citric acid;

0.01-1% sodium citrate;

0.1-5% inositol;

0.005-1% of essence;

0.01-20% of cosmetic composition containing penetration enhancer.

7. The essence of claim 6, wherein the Simulgel NS is a mixed raw material of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, polysorbate-60 and sorbitan isostearate.

8. The essence of claim 6, wherein sym calm is a mixed raw material of 1, 2-pentanediol, butanediol and hydroxyphenylpropionamide benzoic acid.

9. The essence of claim 6, wherein the SIMULGEL EG is a mixture of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, isohexadecane, polysorbate-80 and sorbitan oleate.

10. The preparation method is used for preparing the essence of any one of claims 6 to 9, and is characterized by comprising the following steps of:

s5, vacuum degassing for 1-10 min;

and S8, discharging, standing, filling and packaging.