CN119606770A

CN119606770A - A whitening antioxidant composition and its application and preparation method

Info

Publication number: CN119606770A
Application number: CN202411949937.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 岑宗晓; 王丁; 左玉琴
Original assignee: Guangzhou Luanying Cosmetics Co ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Luanying Cosmetics Co ltd
Priority date: 2024-12-27
Filing date: 2024-12-27
Publication date: 2025-03-14

Abstract

本发明公开了一种美白抗氧化组合物，包括紫檀芪和苯乙基间苯二酚，所述紫檀芪和苯乙基间苯二酚的重量比为1：(0.6‑1.5)，本发明可以显著改善抗氧化和美白的效果，抗氧化美白效果好的同时稳定性较高。本发明采用脂质体进行包覆，形成的化妆品原料稳定性较好，在稳定性检测中不易黄变，并且紫檀芪和苯乙基间苯二酚的含量保留效果较好。本发明应用于美白抗氧化的产品中，刺激性小，使用稳定性高，并且美白，抗氧化效果进一步提升，活性氧清除率达到68％以上，黑色素抑制率达到88％以上。The invention discloses a whitening and antioxidant composition, including pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol, the weight ratio of the pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol is 1: (0.6-1.5), the present invention can significantly improve the effect of anti-oxidation and whitening, and the stability is higher while the anti-oxidation and whitening effect is good. The present invention is coated with liposomes, and the cosmetic raw material stability formed is better, not easy to yellow in stability detection, and the content retention effect of pterostilbene and phenethylresorcinol is better. The present invention is applied to whitening and antioxidant products, and irritation is small, high stability in use, and whitening, antioxidant effect is further improved, active oxygen scavenging rate reaches more than 68%, and melanin inhibition rate reaches more than 88%.

Description

Whitening and antioxidant composition and application and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of cosmetic preparations, in particular to a whitening and antioxidant composition, and an application and a preparation method thereof.

Background

Pterostilbene and phenol compounds are common whitening components and have excellent antioxidant activity, but the pterostilbene and phenol compounds are poor in stability, skin irritation can be caused by excessive addition, and no precedent of compound use exists in the traditional process. The prior whitening and antioxidation products have insignificant use effects, so in order to further improve the whitening and antioxidation effects, development of a composition which has no irritation, stable addition and use and excellent whitening and antioxidation is important.

Chinese patent No. 116763702A discloses a composition for reducing deep spots, a preparation method and application thereof, wherein the composition is prepared by adding melanin inhibiting components (pterostilbene, phenethyl resorcinol, glabridin and thyme) from the aspects of inhibiting generation, preventing transportation and accelerating metabolism, and the composition aims at designing multiple targets for the melanin of the epidermis layer to achieve the effect of reducing the melanin, but has low adding amount of the phenethyl resorcinol and insignificant whitening effect. Chinese patent CN119112686a discloses a composition for delaying oxidation of phenolic hydroxyl compound, wherein hydrogen bond is formed between stabilizer and phenolic hydroxyl compound, so that probability of attack of phenolic hydroxyl by free radical is reduced, the free radical is interrupted by protective agent, oxidation reaction is inhibited, and triple protective cover is formed by protective agent, stabilizer and protective agent, so as to delay oxidation of phenolic hydroxyl compound. However, an increase in the amount of the phenolic hydroxyl compound added causes irritation, and is not suitable for use in cosmetics.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to develop a composition which is non-irritating and stable in use and excellent in whitening and antioxidation, a first aspect of the present invention provides a whitening and antioxidation composition comprising pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol, wherein the weight ratio of pterostilbene to phenethyl resorcinol is 1 (0.6-1.5).

As a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of pterostilbene to phenethyl resorcinol is 1:

(0.7-1.4)。

(0.8-1.2)。

As a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of pterostilbene to phenethyl resorcinol is 1:1.

The inventor finds that pterostilbene and polyphenol compounds have poor solubility in the experimental process, and are easy to yellow in extreme environments, so that the final use of the composition is affected. The inventor finds that the pterostilbene and the phenethyl resorcinol are compounded for use, so that the storage degradability caused by poor dissolution of pterostilbene and polyphenol compounds can be relieved to a certain extent, the content of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol after storage is not obviously reduced, and the degradation prevention effect is far better than that of the combination of pterostilbene and 4-butyl resorcinol. And the combination of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol has relatively small irritation to skin, which is beneficial to the subsequent application of the composition.

In a second aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation, which at least comprises the whitening and resisting oxidation composition.

As a preferred embodiment, the preparation raw materials comprise 15-25% of water, 45-76% of oil phase and 8.5-13.5% of efficacy phase comprising the whitening and antioxidant composition in percentage by weight.

As a preferred embodiment, the oil phase is selected from at least one of hydrogenated lecithin, glycerol, dioctyl carbonate, cholesterol, coconut oil, linseed oil, camellia seed oil.

As a preferred embodiment, the oil phase comprises 30-45% of glycerin, 15-25% of dioctyl carbonate and 4-6% of hydrogenated lecithin in percentage by weight of the cosmetic raw material.

As a preferred embodiment, the oil phase comprises 44% of glycerin, 20% of dioctyl carbonate and 5% of hydrogenated lecithin, in weight percent of the cosmetic raw material.

The inventor finds that pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol have certain irritation in the experimental process, if the addition amount of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol is too large, skin irritation can be caused, on the basis of improving the addition amount of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol, the irritation of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol can be obviously improved by adopting liposome wrapping, pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol are dissolved in the liposome by adopting glycerol and dioctyl carbonate, and the pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol can be continuously released through the slow release effect of the liposome, so that skin is not irritated, and the long-acting antioxidant whitening effect is realized. The lecithin in the liposome is matched with glycerol and dioctyl carbonate, so that the content stability of phenethyl resorcinol can be maintained, and the effective content can not be greatly reduced after long-term storage.

As a preferred embodiment, the efficacy phase comprising the whitening and antioxidant composition comprises 4-6% of pterostilbene, 4-6% of phenethyl resorcinol and 0.5-1.5% of tetraisopalmitate ascorbate, calculated in weight percent of the cosmetic raw material.

As a preferred embodiment, the efficacy phase comprising the whitening and antioxidant composition comprises 5% pterostilbene, 5% phenethyl resorcinol, 1% tetraisopalmitate ascorbate, based on the weight percentage of the cosmetic raw material.

The third aspect of the invention provides a preparation method of a cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation, which comprises the following steps:

S1, premixing an oil phase, heating and stirring at 70-90 ℃ until the oil phase is completely dissolved;

S2, cooling the completely dissolved oil phase to 40-50 ℃, adding the efficacy phase, and stirring until the completely dissolved oil phase is completely dissolved to obtain mixed liquid;

s3, adding water into the mixed liquid, uniformly stirring, and dispersing by using a high-speed dispersing machine to obtain primary emulsion;

s4, the colostrum is subjected to a high-pressure microfluidic nano collision instrument to form stable liquid, so that the whitening and antioxidation cosmetic raw material is obtained.

As a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation is liposome, and the lipidation parameter of the high-pressure microfluidic nano-clash instrument in the step S4 is 25000-35000psi, and the cycle clash is carried out for 1-5 times.

The inventor finds that the liposome is adopted to wrap pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol, so that the stability of a raw material composition can be improved, yellowing in extreme environments is reduced, the content retention effect of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol is good, and the probable reasons are that pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol are loaded in a hollow structure of the liposome, so that the pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol can be isolated from contacting with the external environment, the influence of environmental acidity and alkalinity, temperature and illumination on pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol is reduced, and the stability of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol is improved. The liposome coating structure has a directional slow release effect on pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol, and reduces the degradation of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol by the external environment in the storage process, so that the higher content of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol is reserved.

As a preferred embodiment, the dispersion frequency of the high-speed disperser in the step S3 is 6000-10000r/min, and the dispersion time is 10-20min.

As a preferred embodiment, the stirring rate of the step S1 is 1000-2000r/min, and the stirring rate of the step S2 is 500-1000r/min.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

(1) According to the whitening and antioxidant composition disclosed by the invention, pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol are used in a weight ratio of 1:1, so that the antioxidant and whitening effects can be remarkably improved, the antioxidant and whitening effects are good, and meanwhile, the stability is higher.

(2) According to the whitening and antioxidant composition disclosed by the invention, the liposome is adopted for coating, so that the formed cosmetic raw material has good stability, yellowing is not easy to occur in stability detection, and the content retention effect of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol is good.

(3) According to the whitening and antioxidant composition, glycerol, dioctyl carbonate and hydrogenated lecithin are adopted in the liposome as oil phases, so that the irritation of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol is reduced, and the use amount of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol in products is increased.

(4) According to the whitening and antioxidant composition disclosed by the invention, liposome is adopted for wrapping, so that the activity stability of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol is improved, and the bioavailability is improved, so that the whitening effect is further improved, and the highest efficiency of the biological effect of raw materials is achieved.

(5) The whitening and antioxidant composition disclosed by the invention is applied to a whitening and antioxidant product, has small irritation and high use stability, further improves the whitening and antioxidant effects, ensures that the active oxygen clearance rate reaches more than 68%, and ensures that the melanin inhibition rate reaches more than 88%.

Drawings

Fig. 1 is a color picture in the stability test, colorless, yellowish, yellow, brown yellow in order from left to right.

Detailed Description

Example 1

A whitening and antioxidant composition comprises pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol in a weight ratio of 1:1.

A cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation comprises, by weight, 20% of water, 69% of an oil phase and 11% of an efficacy phase of a whitening and resisting oxidation composition.

The oil phase comprises 44% of glycerol, 20% of dioctyl carbonate and 5% of hydrogenated lecithin.

The efficacy phase comprising the whitening and antioxidant composition comprises 5% of pterostilbene, 5% of phenethyl resorcinol and 1% of tetraisopalmitate ascorbate.

A preparation method of a cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation comprises the following steps:

S1, premixing an oil phase, heating and stirring at 80 ℃ and 1500r/min until the oil phase is completely dissolved;

S2, cooling the completely dissolved oil phase to 45 ℃, adding the efficacy phase, and stirring at 800r/min until the completely dissolved oil phase is completely dissolved to obtain mixed liquid;

S3, adding water into the mixed liquid, uniformly stirring at 800r/min, and dispersing by using a high-speed dispersing machine to obtain primary emulsion;

And in the step S3, the dispersion frequency of the high-speed dispersion machine is 8000r/min, and the dispersion time is 15min.

And in the step S4, the lipidation parameter of the high-pressure microfluidic nano clash instrument is 30000psi, and the high-pressure microfluidic nano clash instrument is circularly clashed for 3 times.

Example 2

A cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation is the same as in example 1, wherein the raw material comprises 24% of water, 69% of oil phase and 7% of efficacy phase of the whitening and resisting oxidation composition in percentage by weight.

The efficacy phase comprising the whitening and antioxidant composition comprises 3% of pterostilbene, 3% of phenethyl resorcinol and 1% of tetraisopalmitate ascorbate.

Example 3

A cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation is the same as in example 1, wherein the raw material comprises, by weight, 26% of water, 69% of an oil phase, and 5% of an efficacy phase of a whitening and resisting oxidation composition.

The efficacy phase comprising the whitening and antioxidant composition comprises 2% of pterostilbene, 2% of phenethyl resorcinol and 1% of tetraisopalmitate ascorbate.

Example 4

A cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation is the same as in example 1, wherein the raw material comprises, by weight, 27% of water, 69% of an oil phase and 4% of an efficacy phase of a whitening and resisting oxidation composition.

The efficacy phase comprising the whitening and antioxidant composition comprises 1.5% of pterostilbene, 1.5% of phenethyl resorcinol and 1% of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Example 5

A cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation is the same as in example 1, wherein the raw material comprises, by weight, 28% of water, 69% of an oil phase, and 3% of an efficacy phase of a whitening and resisting oxidation composition.

The efficacy phase comprising the whitening and antioxidant composition comprises 1% of pterostilbene, 1% of phenethyl resorcinol and 1% of tetraisopalmitate ascorbate.

Example 6

A cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation is the same as in example 1, wherein the raw material comprises 29% of water, 69% of oil phase and 2% of efficacy phase of the whitening and resisting oxidation composition in percentage by weight.

The efficacy phase comprising the whitening and antioxidant composition comprises 0.5% of pterostilbene, 0.5% of phenethyl resorcinol and 1% of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Comparative example 1

A whitening and antioxidant composition comprises pterostilbene and 4-butylresorcinol at a weight ratio of 1:1.

A cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation is the same as in example 1, except that phenethyl resorcinol is replaced with 4-butyl resorcinol.

Comparative example 2

A cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation comprises 89.6% of water, 10% of ethanol, 0.3% of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, 0.05% of pterostilbene and 0.05% of phenethyl resorcinol by weight percentage.

Mixing water, ethanol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol under stirring, and dissolving.

Comparative example 3

A cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation is the same as that of comparative example 2, except that phenethyl resorcinol is replaced with 4-butyl resorcinol.

Comparative example 4

A whitening and antioxidant composition comprises pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol in a weight ratio of 1:1,

The whitening and antioxidation composition is dissolved in water, wherein the mass fraction of pterostilbene is 0.05%, and the mass fraction of phenethyl resorcinol is 0.05%.

Comparative example 5

The whitening and antioxidation composition is dissolved in water, wherein the mass fraction of pterostilbene is 0.1%, and the mass fraction of phenethyl resorcinol is 0.1%.

Comparative example 6

A cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation is the same as in example 1, wherein the raw material comprises 40% of water, 49% of oil phase and 11% of efficacy phase of the whitening and resisting oxidation composition in percentage by weight.

The oil phase comprises 24% of glycerol, 20% of dioctyl carbonate and 5% of hydrogenated lecithin.

Comparative example 7

A cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation is the same as in example 1, wherein the raw material comprises, by weight, 10% of water, 79% of an oil phase and 11% of an efficacy phase of a whitening and resisting oxidation composition.

The oil phase comprises 44% of glycerol, 30% of dioctyl carbonate and 5% of hydrogenated lecithin.

Comparative example 8

A cosmetic raw material for whitening and resisting oxidation is the same as in example 1, wherein the raw material comprises, by weight, 20% of water, 69% of an oil phase and 11% of an efficacy phase of a whitening and resisting oxidation composition.

The oil phase comprises 46% of glycerin, 20% of dioctyl carbonate and 3% of hydrogenated lecithin.

Performance testing

1. Stability test the whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw materials prepared in example 1, comparative example 2, and comparative example 3 were diluted to 1wt% aqueous solutions, and then placed in environments of ph=5 and ph=9, respectively, and then three temperatures of 5 ℃,25 ℃ and 40 ℃ were set, respectively, and the color change of the samples after storage for 0 to 12 weeks was observed. The test results are shown in Table 1.

TABLE 1

2. The content of the effective components is that in example 1, the aqueous solution of which the content is diluted to 1 weight percent in comparative examples 1-3 is tested, the content change of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol in example 1 and comparative example 2 during storage is measured by adopting a high performance liquid chromatography, the test results are shown in table 2, the content change of pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol in comparative example 1 and comparative example 3 during storage is measured by adopting the high performance liquid chromatography, and the test results are shown in table 3.

TABLE 2

TABLE 3 Table 3

3. Melanin inhibition efficiency experiment referring to test examples 3-6 of T/SHRH 036-2021, "cosmetic melanin inhibition test-zebra fish embryo test method", the melanin inhibition effect of the samples prepared in comparative examples 4-5 was measured by microscopic photographing of fish embryos after 48 hours exposure to measure melanin signal intensity and statistical analysis, with a negative control of clear water and a positive control of 2.5g/L aqueous solution of kojic acid, respectively, exposing 20 fish embryos of 8 hours to the above samples. The test results are shown in Table 4.

4. Antioxidant test referring to T/HPCIA 001-2023 "cosmetic anti-wrinkle and tightening efficacy-test method for scavenging Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS)" test examples 2-6, samples prepared in comparative examples 4-5 were tested for antioxidant effect, negative control was clear water, and positive control was 0.1g/L glutathione solution. 24-tail 48-hour large zebra fish embryos are respectively exposed to the samples, and after 24 hours of exposure, the fish embryos are subjected to H2DCFDA staining, and the ROS signal intensity is measured by fluorescent photographing and is subjected to statistical analysis. The test results are shown in Table 4.

TABLE 4 Table 4

	Melanin inhibition/%	ROS clearance/%
			Negative control	0	0
Positive control	30	15
			Example 2	/	79
Example 3	99	68
			Example 4	99	77
Example 5	98	69
			Example 6	88	68
Comparative example 4	74	68
			Comparative example 5	82	71

Examples 3-6, comparative examples 4-5 significantly inhibited melanogenesis in zebra fish embryos with a whitening effect, but 100% of zebra fish embryos developed abnormally in samples of examples 3-5. Examples 2-6 and comparative examples 4-5 were able to significantly scavenge ROS in zebra fish embryos and had antioxidant effects.

Claims

1. A whitening antioxidant composition, characterized in that it comprises pterostilbene and phenethyl resorcinol, wherein the weight ratio of pterostilbene to phenethyl resorcinol is 1:(0.6-1.5).

2. A whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material, characterized in that it at least comprises the whitening and antioxidant composition according to claim 1.

3. The whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 2, characterized in that, by weight percentage, the preparation raw materials include 15-25% water, 49-76% oil phase, and 8.5-13.5% functional phase including the whitening and antioxidant composition.

4. The whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 3, characterized in that the oil phase is selected from at least one of hydrogenated lecithin, glycerol, dicaprylyl carbonate, cholesterol, coconut oil, linseed oil, and camellia seed oil.

5. The whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 3, characterized in that, in terms of weight percentage of the cosmetic raw material, the oil phase comprises 30-45% glycerol, 15-25% dicaprylyl carbonate, and 4-6% hydrogenated lecithin.

6. The whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 3, characterized in that, in terms of weight percentage of the cosmetic raw materials, the functional phase comprising the whitening and antioxidant composition comprises 4-6% pterostilbene, 4-6% phenethylresorcinol, and 0.5-1.5% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

7. A method for preparing the whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to any one of claims 3 to 6, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

S1: pre-mix the oil phase, heat and stir at 70-90℃ until it is completely dissolved;

S2: Cool the completely dissolved oil phase to 40-50°C, add the functional phase, and stir until it is completely dissolved to obtain a mixed liquid;

S3: adding water to the mixed liquid, stirring evenly, and dispersing using a high-speed disperser to obtain colostrum;

S4 colostrum is passed through a high-pressure microfluidic nanocollider to form a stable liquid, thereby obtaining a whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material.

8. The method for preparing the whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 7, characterized in that the whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material is liposomes, and the lipidation parameter of the high-pressure microfluidic nanocollider in step S4 is 25000-35000psi, and the cyclic collision is 1-5 times.

9. The method for preparing the whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 7, characterized in that the dispersion frequency of the high-speed disperser in step S3 is 6000-10000 r/min, and the dispersion time is 10-20 min.

10. The method for preparing the whitening and antioxidant cosmetic raw material according to claim 7, characterized in that the stirring rate of step S1 is 1000-2000 r/min, and the stirring rate of step S2 is 500-1000 r/min.