CN118717626A - A soothing composition containing bamboo leaf extract, cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
A soothing composition containing bamboo leaf extract, cream and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN118717626A CN118717626A CN202410724423.1A CN202410724423A CN118717626A CN 118717626 A CN118717626 A CN 118717626A CN 202410724423 A CN202410724423 A CN 202410724423A CN 118717626 A CN118717626 A CN 118717626A
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- cream
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9794—Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9728—Fungi, e.g. yeasts
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
- A61K2800/5922—At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
Landscapes
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Mycology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
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- Botany (AREA)
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种含淡竹叶提取物的舒缓组合物,活性成分由以下质量份数的组分组成:淡竹叶提取物1‑5份,倒地铃提取物1‑8份。本发明还公开了包含所述的舒缓组合物的乳霜,按质量份数计,原料包括:舒缓组合物3‑12份、0.01‑0.04份螯合剂、5‑20份保湿剂、0.1‑1份pH调节剂、0.2‑2份增稠剂、5‑20份润肤剂、1‑5份乳化剂、0.01‑0.3份皮肤调理剂。本发明舒缓组合物均为天然来源活性物,相比合成的抗敏舒缓剂刺激性更小,依赖性更小,符合化妆品规范。The present invention discloses a soothing composition containing a leaf extract of Bambusa chinensis, wherein the active ingredient is composed of the following components in parts by mass: 1-5 parts of leaf extract of Bambusa chinensis, 1-8 parts of extract of Herba Lycopodii. The present invention also discloses a cream comprising the soothing composition, wherein the raw materials include, by mass, 3-12 parts of the soothing composition, 0.01-0.04 parts of a chelating agent, 5-20 parts of a moisturizing agent, 0.1-1 parts of a pH adjusting agent, 0.2-2 parts of a thickening agent, 5-20 parts of an emollient, 1-5 parts of an emulsifier, and 0.01-0.3 parts of a skin conditioning agent. The soothing composition of the present invention is all natural active ingredients, which are less irritating and less dependent than synthetic anti-allergic soothing agents, and meet the cosmetic specifications.
Description
技术领域Technical Field
本发明涉及A61K8/9789领域,具体涉及一种含淡竹叶提取物的舒缓组合物、乳霜及其制备方法。The present invention relates to the field of A61K8/9789, and in particular to a soothing composition containing a bamboo leaf extract, a cream and a preparation method thereof.
背景技术Background Art
敏感性皮肤特指皮肤在生理或病理条件下发生的一种高反应状态,主要发生于面部,临床表现为受到物理、化学、精神等因素刺激时皮肤易出现灼热、刺痛、瘙痒及紧绷感等主观症状,伴或不伴有红斑、鳞屑、毛细血管扩张等客观体征。根据《中国敏感性皮肤诊治专家共识》,目前研究认为敏感肌的发生是一种“累及皮肤屏障-神经血管-免疫炎症的复杂过程”。在内在和外在因素的相互作用下,皮肤屏障功能受损,引起感觉神经传入信号增加,导致皮肤对外界刺激的反应性增强,引发皮肤免疫炎症反应。Sensitive skin refers specifically to a highly reactive state of the skin under physiological or pathological conditions, mainly occurring on the face. Clinically, the skin is prone to subjective symptoms such as burning, stinging, itching, and tightness when stimulated by physical, chemical, mental and other factors, with or without objective signs such as erythema, scaling, and capillary dilation. According to the "Chinese Expert Consensus on the Diagnosis and Treatment of Sensitive Skin", current research believes that the occurrence of sensitive skin is a "complex process involving the skin barrier-neurovascular-immune inflammation". Under the interaction of internal and external factors, the skin barrier function is damaged, causing an increase in sensory nerve afferent signals, resulting in increased skin reactivity to external stimuli and triggering skin immune inflammatory reactions.
随着消费者意识的提高,敏感皮肤护理市场正在稳步增长,同时,人口的多样性和对于功能细分的需求也持续推动未来增长,并且敏感皮肤人群庞大,不仅有大部分的女性,少部分的男性,还有婴儿。The sensitive skin care market is growing steadily as consumer awareness increases. At the same time, population diversity and demand for functional segmentation continue to drive future growth. The population with sensitive skin is large, including not only most women, a small number of men, but also babies.
目前化学合成的抗过敏剂有较强的依赖性和副作用,虽然该类化合物抗敏效果较好,但大部分为化妆品中的禁用物质。因此,筛选天然物质中具有抗敏效果,且被法规允许应用化妆品中的天然活性成分,具有较好的市场前景。Currently, chemically synthesized antiallergic agents have strong dependence and side effects. Although these compounds have good anti-allergic effects, most of them are banned substances in cosmetics. Therefore, screening natural substances with anti-allergic effects and natural active ingredients allowed by regulations to be used in cosmetics has a good market prospect.
中国专利CN111184664B公开了包含倒地铃和蓝蓟的抗敏组合物,该抗敏组合物对抑制透明质酸酶抑制率高达95%,二者协同增效,可以改善敏感皮肤。中国专利CN109077970B公开了包含倒地铃、木芙蓉叶、红景天、秋葵、二氢槲皮素的抗过敏天然活性成分组合物,该组合物通过抑制RBL-2H3细胞释放β-己糖苷酶和组胺达到抗敏的作用。但是上述抗敏组合物功效单一,在抗过敏的同时,修复受损皮肤屏障亦至关重要。Chinese patent CN111184664B discloses an anti-allergic composition comprising cyperus rotundus and echium, which has an inhibition rate of up to 95% on hyaluronidase, and the two synergistically enhance the effect, which can improve sensitive skin. Chinese patent CN109077970B discloses an anti-allergic natural active ingredient composition comprising cyperus rotundus, hibiscus leaves, rhodiola rosea, okra, and dihydroquercetin, which achieves an anti-allergic effect by inhibiting the release of β-hexosidase and histamine by RBL-2H3 cells. However, the above anti-allergic composition has a single efficacy, and while it is anti-allergic, it is also important to repair the damaged skin barrier.
发明内容Summary of the invention
针对上述问题,本发明公开了一种含淡竹叶提取物的舒缓组合物,活性成分由以下质量份数的组分组成:淡竹叶(Lophatherum gracile Brongn.)提取物1-5份,倒地铃(Cardiospermum halicacabum)提取物1-8份。In view of the above problems, the present invention discloses a soothing composition containing Lophatherum gracile Brongn. extract, wherein the active ingredients are composed of the following components in parts by mass: 1-5 parts of Lophatherum gracile Brongn. extract and 1-8 parts of Cardiospermum halicacabum extract.
优选的,活性成分由以下质量份数的组分组成:淡竹叶提取物1-4份,倒地铃提取物2-6份。Preferably, the active ingredient is composed of the following components in parts by mass: 1-4 parts of Bambusa chinensis leaf extract and 2-6 parts of Cyperus rotundus extract.
本发明的第二目的在于提供一种含有所述的舒缓组合物的化妆品,所述化妆品为液态化妆品、固态化妆品、半固态化妆品。The second object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic containing the soothing composition, wherein the cosmetic is a liquid cosmetic, a solid cosmetic, or a semi-solid cosmetic.
所述液态化妆品包括乳液、润肤蜜、润肤露、化妆水、护肤露、喷雾、润肤油中的至少一种;所述乳液指外观呈流动或半流动的乳液状产品,例如精华乳、润肤乳、保湿奶、润肤蜜等;所述液态化妆品还指水状或略粘稠的产品,例如化妆水、紧肤液、护肤露等;所述润肤油指外观为透明油状液体,成流动性的产品。The liquid cosmetics include at least one of emulsion, body honey, body lotion, toner, skin care lotion, spray, and body oil; the emulsion refers to an emulsion-like product with a flowing or semi-flowing appearance, such as essence milk, body milk, moisturizing milk, body honey, etc.; the liquid cosmetics also refer to watery or slightly viscous products, such as toner, firming lotion, skin care lotion, etc.; the body oil refers to a product with a transparent oily liquid appearance and a flowing state.
所述固态化妆品包括护肤粉、洁面泥、洗颜泥、乳霜、润肤膏、手蜡中的至少一种;所述固态化妆品指不易流动的膏状、霜状产品。The solid cosmetics include at least one of skin care powder, cleansing mud, face washing mud, cream, moisturizing cream, and hand wax; the solid cosmetics refer to paste-like and cream-like products that are not easy to flow.
所述半固态化妆品包括凝胶、咖喱的至少一种;所述半固态化妆品指外观呈透明或半透明凝胶状或半流动性粘稠产品。The semi-solid cosmetics include at least one of gel and curry; the semi-solid cosmetics refer to products with a transparent or translucent gel or semi-fluid viscous appearance.
优选的,所述舒缓组合物在化妆品中的添加重量为1-20%;优选为1-10%。Preferably, the soothing composition is added to the cosmetic in an amount of 1-20% by weight; preferably 1-10%.
所述乳液包括乳化剂、皮肤调理剂、防腐剂、香精,水,螯合剂,增稠剂等;所述凝胶类化妆品还包括高分子聚合物;所述润肤油还包括矿物油、动植物油、人工合成油等;为了满足化妆品的其他功效,还可以加入适量的活性添加剂。The emulsion includes emulsifiers, skin conditioners, preservatives, flavors, water, chelating agents, thickeners, etc.; the gel cosmetics also include high molecular polymers; the moisturizing oil also includes mineral oil, animal and plant oils, artificial synthetic oils, etc.; in order to meet other functions of the cosmetics, an appropriate amount of active additives can also be added.
优先的,所述化妆品为乳霜,按质量份数计,原料包括:舒缓组合物3-12份、0.01-0.04份螯合剂、5-20份保湿剂、0.1-1份pH调节剂、0.2-2份增稠剂、5-20份润肤剂、1-5份乳化剂、0.01-0.3份皮肤调理剂。Preferably, the cosmetic is a cream, and the raw materials include, by weight: 3-12 parts of a soothing composition, 0.01-0.04 parts of a chelating agent, 5-20 parts of a moisturizer, 0.1-1 parts of a pH regulator, 0.2-2 parts of a thickener, 5-20 parts of an emollient, 1-5 parts of an emulsifier, and 0.01-0.3 parts of a skin conditioner.
优选的,按质量份数计,原料包括:舒缓组合物10份、0.02-0.03份螯合剂、10-15份保湿剂、0.15-0.3份pH调节剂、0.5-1份增稠剂、10-15份润肤剂、2-4份乳化剂、0.05-0.15份皮肤调理剂。Preferably, the raw materials include, by mass: 10 parts of soothing composition, 0.02-0.03 parts of chelating agent, 10-15 parts of moisturizing agent, 0.15-0.3 parts of pH adjusting agent, 0.5-1 parts of thickening agent, 10-15 parts of emollient, 2-4 parts of emulsifier, and 0.05-0.15 parts of skin conditioning agent.
在一种实施方式中,所述螯合剂选自无机螯合剂和有机螯合剂中的一种或多种。In one embodiment, the chelating agent is selected from one or more of an inorganic chelating agent and an organic chelating agent.
优选的,所述螯合剂为有机螯合剂,包括但不限于EDTA二钠、EDTA四钠、植酸钠。Preferably, the chelating agent is an organic chelating agent, including but not limited to disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, and sodium phytate.
进一步优选的,所述螯合剂为EDTA二钠。Further preferably, the chelating agent is disodium EDTA.
在一种实施方式中,所述保湿剂选自多元醇、氨基酸、多糖中的一种或多种。In one embodiment, the humectant is selected from one or more of polyols, amino acids, and polysaccharides.
优选的,所述保湿剂为多元醇,包括但不限于甘油、丁二醇、1,2-戊二醇、1,2-己二醇、聚乙二醇-32、双丙甘醇、山梨糖醇、1,3-丙二醇、蔗糖中的至少一种。Preferably, the humectant is a polyol, including but not limited to at least one of glycerin, butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, polyethylene glycol-32, dipropylene glycol, sorbitol, 1,3-propylene glycol, and sucrose.
进一步优选的,所述保湿剂为甘油、丁二醇、1,2-戊二醇的组合,质量比为(3-12):(1-5):(1-3)。More preferably, the moisturizing agent is a combination of glycerol, butylene glycol, and 1,2-pentanediol in a mass ratio of (3-12):(1-5):(1-3).
在一种实施方式中,所述皮肤调理剂选自银耳子实体(Tremella fuciformisBerk)提取物、泛醇、透明质酸钠、尿囊素、棉子糖、海藻糖、甘草酸二钾、烟酰胺、腺苷、乙酰壳糖胺、辛甘醇、甘油聚醚-26中的至少一种。In one embodiment, the skin conditioning agent is selected from at least one of Tremella fuciformis Berk extract, panthenol, sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, raffinose, trehalose, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, niacinamide, adenosine, acetyl glucosamine, caprylyl glycol, and glyceryl polyether-26.
优选的,所述皮肤调理剂为银耳子实体提取物和甘草酸二钾的组合,质量比为(0.005-0.25):(0.005-0.05)。Preferably, the skin conditioner is a combination of Tremella fuciformis fruiting body extract and dipotassium glycyrrhizinate in a mass ratio of (0.005-0.25): (0.005-0.05).
淡竹叶中含有黄酮,酚酸,三萜,甾类物质等功效成分,淡竹叶提取物具有抑菌,抗氧化,消炎,收缩血管的功效,研究发现淡竹叶中的酚酸抗炎效果较强,可以应用于化妆品中具有一定的舒缓肌肤的功效,但是申请人在大量研究过程中发现,仅仅加入淡竹叶提取物其舒缓能力有限,而加入倒地铃提取物,尤其是质量比为(1-5):(1-8)时,在进一步提高其舒缓能力的同时,还可以抗过敏,并且在其他助剂的作用下,共同修复受损皮肤屏障。申请人认为可能的原因是:倒地铃提取物中富含不饱和脂肪酸、黄酮、萜类、甾醇等多种化学成分,能够阻止细胞内外的受损情况,有效缓解炎症问题,和淡竹叶提取物中的酚酸共同作用,提高了舒缓能力,而银耳子实体,是一种物源性的类透明质酸,从银耳中提取出来的水溶性高分子异多糖具有超越透明质酸的保湿性能,能保持490倍的水,从而给予受损肌肤进一步的修护。Bamboo leaves contain flavonoids, phenolic acids, triterpenes, steroids and other effective ingredients. Bamboo leaf extract has antibacterial, anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and vasoconstrictor effects. Studies have found that the phenolic acids in bamboo leaves have a strong anti-inflammatory effect and can be used in cosmetics to soothe the skin. However, the applicant found in a large number of studies that the soothing ability of Bamboo leaf extract alone is limited, while the addition of the extract of the Herba Lycopodii, especially when the mass ratio is (1-5): (1-8), can further improve its soothing ability and also be anti-allergic. In addition, with the help of other adjuvants, the damaged skin barrier can be repaired together. The applicant believes that the possible reason is that the extract of the Psoralea corylifolia is rich in unsaturated fatty acids, flavonoids, terpenes, sterols and other chemical components, which can prevent damage inside and outside cells and effectively relieve inflammation. It works together with the phenolic acid in the extract of the bamboo leaves to improve the soothing ability. The Tremella fuciformis fruiting body is a material-derived hyaluronic acid-like substance. The water-soluble high-molecular heteropolysaccharide extracted from Tremella fuciformis has moisturizing properties that surpass hyaluronic acid and can retain 490 times more water, thereby providing further repair to damaged skin.
在一种实施方式中,所述pH调节剂选自精氨酸、氨丁三醇、氨甲基丙二醇中的至少一种。In one embodiment, the pH regulator is selected from at least one of arginine, tromethamine, and aminomethylpropanediol.
优选的,所述pH调节剂为氨丁三醇。Preferably, the pH regulator is tromethamine.
在一种实施方式中,所述增稠剂选自黄原胶、聚丙烯酰胺、聚丙烯酸酯交联聚合物-6、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、丙烯酸钠/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、卡波姆、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甲基硅氧烷硅倍半氧烷交联聚合物中的至少一种。In one embodiment, the thickener is selected from at least one of xanthan gum, polyacrylamide, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, acrylic acid (ester) copolymer/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, and vinyl polydimethylsiloxane/polymethylsiloxane silsesquioxane crosspolymer.
优选的,所述增稠剂为丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物和丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物,质量比为(0.06-0.7):(0.14-1.3)。Preferably, the thickener is a copolymer of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate and an acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, with a mass ratio of (0.06-0.7): (0.14-1.3).
在一种实施方式中,所述润肤剂选自天然有机化合物、化学合成的油类中的一种或多种。In one embodiment, the emollient is selected from one or more of natural organic compounds and chemically synthesized oils.
包括但不限于辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、氢化聚癸烯、辛酸/癸酸/肉豆蔻酸/硬脂酸甘油三酯、辛基十二醇肉豆蔻酸酯、棕榈酸乙基己酯、椰油酸癸酯、二异硬脂醇苹果酸酯、季戊四醇四(乙基己酸)酯、氢化C6-14链烯烃聚合物类、椰子油、芒果籽脂、霍霍巴籽油、向日葵籽油、白池花籽油、全缘叶澳洲坚果籽油、牛油果树果脂、甜扁桃油、角鲨烷、生育酚乙酸酯、鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷。Including but not limited to caprylic/capric triglyceride, hydrogenated polydecene, caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic triglyceride, octyldodecanol myristate, ethylhexyl palmitate, decyl cocoate, diisostearyl malate, pentaerythrityl tetra(ethylhexanoate), hydrogenated C6-14 olefin polymers, coconut oil, mangifera indica seed butter, jojoba seed oil, sunflower seed oil, meadowfoam seed oil, macadamia ternifolia seed oil, avocado butter, prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, cetyl ethylhexanoate, dimethicone.
优选的,所述润肤剂为角鲨烷、鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯、聚二甲基硅氧烷的组合,质量比为3:(1-12):(1-5)。Preferably, the emollient is a combination of squalane, cetyl ethylhexanoate and polydimethylsiloxane in a mass ratio of 3:(1-12):(1-5).
在一种实施方式中,所述乳化剂选自表面活性剂类乳化剂、天然乳化剂、辅助乳化剂中的一种或多种。In one embodiment, the emulsifier is selected from one or more of surfactant emulsifiers, natural emulsifiers, and auxiliary emulsifiers.
优选的,所述乳化剂为表面活性剂类乳化剂,包括但不限于聚山梨醇酯-20、聚山梨醇酯-60、甘油硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸酯SE、PEG-100硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、鲸蜡醇聚醚-20、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、山梨坦硬脂酸酯、山梨坦倍半油酸酯、鲸蜡硬脂醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇橄榄油酸酯、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯、C12-20烷基葡糖苷、辛基十二醇聚醚-25。Preferably, the emulsifier is a surfactant emulsifier, including but not limited to polysorbate-20, polysorbate-60, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, PEG-100 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, ceteth-20, cetearyl glucoside, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl olive oil ester, sorbitan olive oil ester, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, and octyldodecanol polyether-25.
优选的,所述乳化剂为鲸蜡硬脂醇、C12-20烷基葡糖苷、甘油硬脂酸酯的组合,质量比为(0.5-2.5):(0.3-1.2):(0.2-1.3)。Preferably, the emulsifier is a combination of cetearyl alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside and glyceryl stearate in a mass ratio of (0.5-2.5):(0.3-1.2):(0.2-1.3).
在一种实施方式中,所述防腐剂选自苯氧乙醇、乙基己基甘油、对羟基苯乙酮中的至少一种。In one embodiment, the preservative is selected from at least one of phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, and p-hydroxyacetophenone.
优选的,所述防腐剂为乙基己基甘油。Preferably, the preservative is ethylhexylglycerin.
所述乳霜的制备方法,包括以下步骤:The preparation method of the cream comprises the following steps:
(1)水、螯合剂、保湿剂、皮肤调理剂、pH调节剂为A相原料;将A相原料混合,加热至70-80℃,溶解完全,保温备用;(1) Water, chelating agent, moisturizing agent, skin conditioning agent, and pH adjusting agent are raw materials of phase A; the raw materials of phase A are mixed, heated to 70-80° C., dissolved completely, and kept warm for later use;
(2)润肤剂、乳化剂为C相原料;将C相原料混合,加热至70-80℃,溶解完全,保温备用;(2) Emollients and emulsifiers are raw materials for phase C; the raw materials for phase C are mixed, heated to 70-80° C., dissolved completely, and kept warm for later use;
(3)防腐剂、舒缓组合物为D相原料;将D相原料混合,搅拌均匀,备用;(3) The preservative and soothing composition are the raw materials of phase D; the raw materials of phase D are mixed, stirred evenly, and set aside;
(4)将作为B相的增稠剂投入A相,均质3-5分钟,70-80℃;(4) Add the thickener of phase B into phase A and homogenize for 3-5 minutes at 70-80°C;
(5)向步骤(4)所得内容物中加入C相,均质乳化5-8分钟,70-80℃;(5) Add phase C to the contents obtained in step (4), homogenize and emulsify for 5-8 minutes at 70-80°C;
(6)将步骤(5)所得内容物冷却至40-45℃,加入D相,均质3-5分钟得到所述乳霜。(6) Cool the contents obtained in step (5) to 40-45° C., add phase D, and homogenize for 3-5 minutes to obtain the cream.
有益效果Beneficial Effects
1、本发明舒缓组合物不仅可以修复受损皮肤屏障,还可以缓解慢性的皮肤炎症(化学刺激、特应性湿疹)和舒缓急性皮肤刺激(蚊虫叮咬、剃刀伤害)。1. The soothing composition of the present invention can not only repair damaged skin barriers, but also relieve chronic skin inflammation (chemical irritation, atopic eczema) and relieve acute skin irritation (insect bites, razor injuries).
2、本发明舒缓组合物均为天然来源活性物,相比合成的抗敏舒缓剂刺激性更小,依赖性更小,符合化妆品规范;能够广泛应用于各类化妆品中。2. The soothing compositions of the present invention are all active ingredients of natural origin, which are less irritating and less dependent than synthetic anti-allergic soothing agents, and meet the cosmetic standards; they can be widely used in various cosmetics.
3、本发明乳霜配方温和、不刺激,强效、高效、安全,舒缓组合物间的良好配比达到最佳协同作用。3. The cream formula of the present invention is mild, non-irritating, strong, efficient and safe, and the good ratio between the soothing components achieves the best synergistic effect.
附图说明BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
图1人体皮肤SLS斑贴舒缓试验皮肤颜色参数(a值)结果图Figure 1 Results of skin color parameters (a value) of the human skin SLS patch soothing test
图2人体皮肤SLS斑贴舒缓试验血红素检测结果图Figure 2 Heme detection results of human skin SLS patch soothing test
具体实施方式DETAILED DESCRIPTION
实施例1-6以及对比例1-3配方见下表1,单位为质量份。The formulations of Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-3 are shown in Table 1 below, in parts by mass.
表1一种含淡竹叶提取物的乳霜配方组成Table 1 Composition of a cream formula containing bamboo leaf extract
所述银耳子实体提取物购自于上海辉文生物技术股份有限公司。The Tremella fruiting body extract was purchased from Shanghai Huiwen Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
所述丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物购自于法国赛比克公司(SEPPIC)。The hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer was purchased from SEPPIC, France.
所述丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物购自于LUBRIZOL ADVANCEDMATERIALS,INC.(50025235)。The acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer was purchased from LUBRIZOL ADVANCEDMATERIALS, INC. (50025235).
所述聚二甲基硅氧烷购自于道康宁dow corning-中国有限公司。The polydimethylsiloxane was purchased from Dow Corning-China Co., Ltd.
所述C12-20烷基葡糖苷购自于法国赛比克公司SEPPIC(50025152)The C12-20 alkyl glucoside was purchased from SEPPIC (50025152) of France.
所述淡竹叶提取物购自于诚迈科技(中国)有限公司CM TECH CHINAThe extract of Bambusa longituba was purchased from CM TECH CHINA Co., Ltd.
所述倒地铃提取物购自于RAHN集团。The Herba Lysimachiae extract was purchased from RAHN Group.
实施例1-6以及对比例1-3所述的乳霜,具体通过以下方法制得:The creams described in Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-3 are specifically prepared by the following method:
(1)水、螯合剂、保湿剂、皮肤调理剂、pH调节剂为A相原料;将A相原料混合,加热至75℃,溶解完全,保温备用;(1) Water, chelating agent, moisturizing agent, skin conditioning agent, and pH adjuster are raw materials of phase A; the raw materials of phase A are mixed, heated to 75° C., dissolved completely, and kept warm for later use;
(2)润肤剂、乳化剂为C相原料;将C相原料混合,加热至75℃,溶解完全,保温备用;(2) Emollients and emulsifiers are raw materials for phase C; the raw materials for phase C are mixed, heated to 75° C., dissolved completely, and kept warm for later use;
(3)防腐剂、舒缓组合物为D相原料;将D相原料混合,搅拌均匀,备用;(3) The preservative and soothing composition are the raw materials of phase D; the raw materials of phase D are mixed, stirred evenly, and set aside;
(4)将作为B相的增稠剂投入A相,均质4分钟,75℃。(4) Add the thickener of phase B into phase A and homogenize for 4 minutes at 75°C.
(5)向步骤(4)所得内容物中加入C相,均质乳化5分钟,75℃。(5) Add phase C to the contents obtained in step (4) and homogenize and emulsify for 5 minutes at 75°C.
(6)将步骤(5)所得内容物冷却至43℃,加入D相,均质4分钟得到所述乳霜。(6) Cool the contents obtained in step (5) to 43° C., add phase D, and homogenize for 4 minutes to obtain the cream.
性能测试Performance Testing
1、皮肤屏障修复测试1. Skin barrier repair test
选取45名年龄在18-60岁、面部皮肤屏障受损的志愿者(妊娠或哺乳妇女除外),分为9组,每组5人,分别使用实施例1-6及对比例1-3制得的乳霜,每天早晚各使用一次,分别在产品使用前、持续使用4周后用经表皮失水率测试探头Tewameter(CK,Germany)测量面部经表皮失水率,同一个点测定5次,排除最大值和最小值后取3次的平均值记录。45 volunteers aged 18-60 years old with damaged facial skin barrier (except pregnant or lactating women) were selected and divided into 9 groups, with 5 people in each group. The creams prepared in Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-3 were used once in the morning and evening every day. The transepidermal water loss rate of the face was measured with a transepidermal water loss test probe Tewameter (CK, Germany) before use of the product and after continuous use for 4 weeks. The same point was measured 5 times, and the average value of 3 times was recorded after excluding the maximum and minimum values.
经皮水分散失(TransEpidermalWaterLoss,TEWL)反应角质层的屏障功能,可用来评价化妆品对皮肤屏障的修复能力。在测试条件下,得到的TEWL值越高,代表单位时间、单位横截面积的经表皮水分流失量越多,皮肤屏障功能较差,反之皮肤屏障功能较好,即TEWL值降低越多,产品对皮肤屏障的修复能力越强。Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) reflects the barrier function of the stratum corneum and can be used to evaluate the ability of cosmetics to repair the skin barrier. Under the test conditions, the higher the TEWL value obtained, the more transepidermal water loss per unit time and per unit cross-sectional area, and the poorer the skin barrier function. On the contrary, the better the skin barrier function, that is, the more the TEWL value decreases, the stronger the product's ability to repair the skin barrier.
Tewl值变化率=(产品使用4周后Tewl值-使用前Tewl值)÷使用前Tewl值×100%。Tewl value change rate = (Tewl value after 4 weeks of use of the product - Tewl value before use) ÷ Tewl value before use × 100%.
实验结果:结果见表2,所述各实施例及对比例均有效,但对比例对皮肤屏障的修复能力有限。Experimental results: The results are shown in Table 2. All the embodiments and comparative examples are effective, but the comparative examples have limited ability to repair the skin barrier.
表2经表皮水分流失Tewl值变化率Table 2 Transepidermal water loss Tewl value change rate
2、人体皮肤SLS斑贴舒缓试验2. Human skin SLS patch soothing test
样品信息Sample Information
实施例1-6及对比例1-3制得的乳霜Creams prepared in Examples 1-6 and Comparative Examples 1-3
试验目的Purpose of the test
十二烷基硫酸钠(SLS)封闭斑贴于皮肤上,可造成皮肤损伤,有可能伴随局部红斑、瘙痒。通过测试受试物干预由SLS引起的皮肤损伤反应,来判断受试物的舒缓功效。Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) occluded patches on the skin can cause skin damage, which may be accompanied by local erythema and itching. The soothing effect of the test substance can be determined by testing the intervention of the test substance on the skin damage reaction caused by SLS.
试验项目Pilot Project
斑贴试验(PatchTest)是确定皮炎湿疹患者的致敏原一个简单、可靠的方法。其将可疑的致敏原配制成一定浓度,放置在一特制的小室内敷贴于人体遮盖部位(常在后背、前臂屈侧),经过一定时间,根据有否阳性反应来确定受试物是否系致敏原(即致敏物质)。SLS是刺激性反应的常用阳性成分,将一定浓度的SLS置于斑试器小室内,作用于皮肤可导致皮肤屏障损伤,诱发炎症,可表现为局部真皮小血管扩张、血流量增加,皮肤血红素(Ervthema)、经表皮水分流失(TEWL)升高,皮肤含水量下降。所以通过将SLS与受试物同时置于斑试器小室,或在皮肤损伤后涂抹受试物,在指定时间、指定区域检测皮肤血红素、TEWL、含水量的变化,可一定程度上反应受试物的舒缓功效,本试验主要检测皮肤a值和血红素变化来证明。Patch test is a simple and reliable method to determine the allergens of patients with dermatitis and eczema. The suspected allergen is prepared into a certain concentration, placed in a special chamber and applied to the covered part of the human body (usually on the back and the flexor side of the forearm). After a certain period of time, whether the test substance is an allergen (i.e., a sensitizing substance) is determined based on whether there is a positive reaction. SLS is a common positive component of irritation reaction. Placing a certain concentration of SLS in the chamber of the patch tester and acting on the skin can cause skin barrier damage and induce inflammation, which can be manifested as local dermal small blood vessel dilation, increased blood flow, increased skin hemoglobin (Ervthema) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and decreased skin water content. Therefore, by placing SLS and the test substance in the chamber of the patch tester at the same time, or applying the test substance after skin damage, and detecting the changes in skin hemoglobin, TEWL, and water content at a specified time and in a specified area, the soothing effect of the test substance can be reflected to a certain extent. This test mainly detects the changes in skin a value and hemoglobin to prove it.
试验前准备Preparation before the test
(1)受试者筛选(1) Subject screening
受试者排除标准如下:The exclusion criteria for subjects are as follows:
a.近一周使用抗组胺药或近一个月使用免疫抑制剂者;a. Those who have used antihistamines in the past week or immunosuppressants in the past month;
b.近两个月内受试部位应用任何抗炎药物者;b. Those who have used any anti-inflammatory drugs in the tested area within the past two months;
c.受试者患有炎症性皮肤病临床未愈者;c. Subjects with inflammatory skin diseases that have not been clinically cured;
d.胰岛素依赖性糖尿病患者;d. Patients with insulin-dependent diabetes mellitus;
e.正在接受治疗的哮喘或其它慢性呼吸系统疾病患者;e. Patients who are receiving treatment for asthma or other chronic respiratory diseases;
f.在近6个月内接受抗癌化疗者;f. Those who have received anti-cancer chemotherapy in the past 6 months;
g.免疫缺陷或自身免疫性疾病患者;g. Patients with immunodeficiency or autoimmune diseases;
h.哺乳期或妊娠期妇女;h. Women who are breastfeeding or pregnant;
i.双侧乳房切除及双侧腋下淋巴结切除者;i. Bilateral mastectomy and bilateral axillary lymph node removal;
j.在皮肤待试部位由于瘢痕、色素、萎缩、鲜红斑痣或其它瑕疵而影响试验结果的判定者;j. The judges of the test results may be affected by scars, pigmentation, atrophy, port wine stains or other blemishes on the skin to be tested;
k.参加其它的临床试验研究者;k. Participating in other clinical trial researchers;
l.体质高度敏感者;l. Those with highly sensitive constitution;
m.非志愿参加者或不能按试验要求完成规定内容者m. Non-voluntary participants or those who cannot complete the required content according to the test requirements
(2)受试者人数设定(2) Setting the number of subjects
本次试验输出5例以上的有效数据This test outputs more than 5 cases of valid data
(3)仪器试剂(3) Instruments and reagents
表3:仪器试剂一览表Table 3: List of instruments and reagents
试验方法Test methods
(1)实验方案设计(1) Experimental design
于恒温恒湿测试室进行试验,试验周期24h测试。共选择3个测试区域,分为空白对照、SLS处理组、SLS联合受试物处理组(包括联合实施例1、3、6和对比例1、2、3)(24h),空白对照组不加任何处理。The test was conducted in a constant temperature and humidity test room with a test period of 24 hours. A total of 3 test areas were selected, divided into a blank control, an SLS treatment group, and an SLS combined with a test substance treatment group (including combined Examples 1, 3, 6 and Comparative Examples 1, 2, 3) (24 hours), and the blank control group was not treated in any way.
测试方案为:选择适合斑试器的3个测试区域,于一个指定区域先涂抹受试物,再进行斑贴测试。24h去除斑试器后,检测各指标变化。The test plan is: select 3 test areas suitable for the patch tester, apply the test substance to a designated area first, and then perform the patch test. After 24 hours, remove the patch tester and detect the changes in each indicator.
检测指标:使用MX18皮肤探头和CL400探头对使用前、使用后指定时间的血红素、皮肤颜色进行检测。Detection indicators: Use MX18 skin probe and CL400 probe to detect hemoglobin and skin color before and after use at a specified time.
(2)产品使用方法(2) Product Usage
受试部位先涂抹一次受试物,待完全吸收干燥后粘贴加有2%SLS的斑试器小室。24h后去除斑试器。Apply the test substance once to the test area, wait for it to be completely absorbed and dry, then stick a spot tester chamber with 2% SLS added. Remove the spot tester after 24 hours.
(3)试验过程(3) Test process
受试部位选择左、右前臂屈侧,3个标记区域,具体测试步骤如下:The test site selected was the left and right forearm flexion side, 3 marked areas, and the specific test steps were as follows:
a.使用清水清洗整个手臂,室内(8月26日:21.3℃,50.7%;8月27日:21.8℃,50%)平衡20min;a. Wash the entire arm with clean water and equilibrate it in the room (August 26: 21.3℃, 50.7%; August 27: 21.8℃, 50%) for 20 minutes;
b.使用MX18探头检测初始血红素,每个区域重复检测3次,取平均值作为最终测试值;CL400探头检测初始皮肤颜色参数,每个区域重复检测3次,取平均值作为最终测试值;b. Use the MX18 probe to detect the initial hemoglobin, repeat the test 3 times for each area, and take the average value as the final test value; use the CL400 probe to detect the initial skin color parameters, repeat the test 3 times for each area, and take the average value as the final test value;
c.指定受试部位涂抹受试物,等待完全吸收并干燥;c. Apply the test substance to the designated test area and wait for it to be completely absorbed and dry;
d.吸取25uL2%的SLS溶液滴加于斑试器所附的滤纸片上,置于小室内;d. Pipette 25uL of 2% SLS solution and drop it onto the filter paper attached to the spot tester and place it in the small chamber;
e.将斑试器用无刺激胶带贴敷于受试者前臂屈侧皮肤,用手掌轻压使之均匀,持续24h;e. Apply the spot tester to the skin on the flexor side of the subject's forearm with a non-irritating tape, and gently press with the palm of your hand to make it evenly applied for 24 hours;
f.去除斑试器,洗净受试部位,于室内平衡30min,待压痕消失后观察皮肤反应;f. Remove the spot tester, clean the test area, and balance it in the room for 30 minutes. After the indentation disappears, observe the skin reaction;
g.重复步骤b,记录各检测值,记为即时舒缓测试值;g. Repeat step b and record each test value as the immediate relief test value;
h.统计数据,分析结果。h. Statistical data and analysis results.
试验结果Test results
(1)计算公式(1) Calculation formula
a值减少率%=(a1-a2)/a1x100%a value reduction rate % = (a1-a2)/a1x100%
血红素减少率%=(MX1-MX2)/MX1x100%Hemoglobin reduction rate % = (MX1-MX2)/MX1x100%
式中:Where:
a1—SLS组a值;a2—SLS+受试物组a值;a1—a value of SLS group; a2—a value of SLS+test substance group;
MX1—SLS组血红素;MX2—SLS+受试物组血红素。MX1—hemoglobin in the SLS group; MX2—hemoglobin in the SLS+test substance group.
(2)结果分析(2) Results Analysis
10例受试者血红素、皮肤颜色参数(a值)检测数据如下表所示:The test data of hemoglobin and skin color parameters (a value) of 10 subjects are shown in the following table:
a值检测数值a value detection value
血红素检测数值Hemoglobin test value
共10例受试者数据纳入的舒缓测试,皮肤颜色参数(a值)和血红素检测结果如下图1、图2所示。SLS斑贴处理后,a值和血红素显著升高(P<0.01,P<0.001)。受试物处理组,于2%SLS组相比,实施例1、3、6和对比例1、2、3的a值减少率分别为:2%、7%、13%、1%、5%、6%;血红素减少率分别为:3.2%、4.9%、7.8%、2.6%、4.6%、4.7%。A total of 10 subjects were included in the soothing test, and the skin color parameters (a value) and hemoglobin test results are shown in Figures 1 and 2 below. After SLS patch treatment, a value and hemoglobin increased significantly (P < 0.01, P < 0.001). Compared with the 2% SLS group, the a value reduction rates of Examples 1, 3, 6 and Comparative Examples 1, 2, 3 were 2%, 7%, 13%, 1%, 5%, and 6%, respectively; the hemoglobin reduction rates were 3.2%, 4.9%, 7.8%, 2.6%, 4.6%, and 4.7%, respectively.
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