CN116803367A

CN116803367A - Skin quality improving composition, cosmetics containing skin quality improving composition and applications thereof

Info

Publication number: CN116803367A
Application number: CN202310815323.5A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 胡嘉奂; 林曦; 樊雨梅; 闪烁; 李金华
Original assignee: Shiyin Shanghai Biotechnology Co ltd
Current assignee: Shiyin Shanghai Biotechnology Co ltd
Priority date: 2023-07-04
Filing date: 2023-07-04
Publication date: 2023-09-26

Abstract

The invention provides a skin-improving composition, a cosmetic containing the skin-improving composition and application of the cosmetic, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The recombinant III-type humanized collagen and the retinol are used in a specific proportion, so that the problems of lack of products for synergistically promoting III-type collagen and elastin to generate and high retinol irritation in the prior art are solved. The invention not only can realize the effect of synergistically promoting the generation of III-type collagen and elastin and improve skin elasticity, but also can reduce the irritation of retinol and better exert the effect in products. The skin-improving composition is further prepared into cosmetics, can obviously improve skin moisture, elasticity and compactness, and effectively maintains the compound efficacy of the recombinant III-type humanized collagen and retinol.

Description

Skin-improving composition, cosmetic containing skin-improving composition and application thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a skin-improving composition, a cosmetic containing the skin-improving composition and application thereof.

Background

Skin aging is a complex biological behavior involving multiple skin components, including natural aging and extrinsic aging (primarily photoaging). Although natural aging and extrinsic aging are distinct in terms of biology, biochemistry and molecular mechanisms, they both result in significant changes in the elastic fibers, intrinsic aging manifests itself as a reduction in the number of elastic fibers and photoaging manifests itself as accumulation of elastic fiber mass. With age and significant increase in solar exposure, elastin content decreases. Studies have shown that new elastin is not produced after adulthood and that an important point in skin anti-aging or cosmetic is to increase the amount of elastin in adults. However, on the principle, few products are available which can achieve a remarkable effect of improving skin conditions.

Retinol, a fat-soluble vitamin which can only be taken in by exogenous means, is one of the effective active ingredients in cosmetic anti-aging formulations, and is widely used for improving a series of skin problems such as pores, fine lines, wrinkles, darkness, etc. While the efficacy of retinol has been recognized by dermatologists and consumers, its use has been limited because of its inherent skin remodeling and irritation. In the prior art, a retinol component is mostly encapsulated by a liposome to reduce the irritation of the retinol component, for example, chinese application CN116019738A discloses a retinol inclusion and a preparation method and application thereof, and adopts a high-pressure homogenization method, wherein vegetable oil is used as an oil phase, and phospholipids, cholesterol, ceramide, surfactant and the like are used as wall materials to encapsulate the retinol to reduce the irritation of the retinol. For example, chinese application patent CN115969730A and CN115813800A disclose that the irritation of retinol substances is reduced in the form of nano liposome vesicles and composite micropowder, but the methods have high requirements on the process, are time-consuming and material-consuming, can also introduce a large amount of components causing skin irritation such as absolute ethyl alcohol and the like in the process, and cannot be well applied to cosmetic preparation.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a composition for improving skin quality, which can synergistically promote the generation of III type collagen and elastin through simple compounding and reduce the irritation of retinol in products.

In order to achieve the above object, the present invention provides the following technical solutions:

the invention provides a skin-improving composition, which comprises recombinant type III human collagen and retinol, wherein the weight ratio of the recombinant type III human collagen to the retinol in the skin-improving composition is 1:0.01-5.

Preferably, the weight ratio of the recombinant type III human collagen to the retinol in the skin-improving composition is 1:0.03-3.

Preferably, the mass percentage concentration of the recombinant type III human collagen in the skin-improving composition is 0.002% -0.2%.

Preferably, the mass percentage concentration of retinol in the skin-improving composition is 0.005% -0.01%.

The invention also provides application of the skin composition for improving skin quality in preparation of skin anti-aging products.

The invention also provides a cosmetic which is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight:

5 to 10 parts of the skin composition, 80 to 150 parts of humectant, 20 to 60 parts of softening agent, 20 to 60 parts of thickening agent, 0 to 20 parts of skin conditioning agent and 500 to 1000 parts of water.

Preferably, the humectant is one or more selected from glycerol, trehalose, tocopherol, chitosan, hexylene glycol, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane and dextran.

Preferably, the emollient is selected from one or more of cyclopentamethylsiloxane, dimethiconol and phytosterol canola oil glycerides.

Preferably, the thickener is selected from one or two of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer.

Preferably, the skin conditioning agent is selected from one or more of jojoba seed oil, allantoin, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and arginine.

The invention has the technical effects and advantages that:

according to the invention, the recombinant III-type humanized collagen and the retinol are used in a specific proportion, so that the effect of synergistically promoting the generation of III-type collagen and elastin can be realized, the skin elasticity can be improved, the irritation of the retinol can be reduced, and the effect can be better exerted in the product.

The cosmetic provided by the invention contains the composition for improving the skin quality, can obviously improve the moisture, elasticity and compactness of skin, and provides an effective product for resisting skin aging.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a graph showing the results of comparing the gene expression levels of the respective groups.

Detailed Description

The invention provides a skin-improving composition, which comprises recombinant type III human collagen and retinol, wherein the weight ratio of the recombinant type III human collagen to the retinol in the skin-improving composition is 1:0.01-5, preferably 1:0.03-3, more preferably 1:1-2, the mass percentage concentration of the recombinant type III human collagen in the skin-improving composition is preferably 0.002-0.2, more preferably 0.005-0.1, the recombinant type III human collagen is preferably obtained by dissolving recombinant type III human collagen powder into a solvent, the type of the solvent has no special requirement, and the cosmetic common solvent is selected and the activity of the recombinant type III human collagen is not influenced; the mass percentage concentration of the retinol in the skin-improving composition is preferably 0.005-0.01%, more preferably 0.006-0.008%, the retinol is preferably obtained by dissolving retinol powder into a solvent, the type of the solvent is not particularly required, and the retinol-improving composition is prepared by selecting a common cosmetic solvent without influencing the activity of the retinol.

The invention also provides application of the composition for improving skin quality in preparing a skin anti-aging product, wherein skin anti-aging comprises resisting skin aging caused by illumination, natural aging and the like; the skin anti-aging product is preferably a cosmetic or daily chemical product, and the application mode is external; the formulation of the skin anti-aging product is preferably toning lotion, emulsion, cream, facial mask, essence, gel and the like, and the addition weight ratio of the skin improving composition in the skin anti-aging product is preferably 0.1-10%, and further preferably 0.4-1.5%; in the invention, the skin anti-aging product also comprises auxiliary materials acceptable by cosmetics, wherein the auxiliary materials comprise a humectant, an emulsifying agent, a thickening agent, a skin conditioning agent, a pH regulator, a preservative, water and the like; the emulsifier is preferably one or more of sodium lauroyl glutamate, lauramidopropyl betaine, isopropyl myristate or cocoyl glucoside; the humectant is preferably one or more of sodium hyaluronate, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, sorbitol, inositol, beta-glucan or trehalose; the thickener is preferably one or more of disodium EDTA, carbomer, xanthan gum, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer or sodium polyacrylate grafted starch; the skin conditioner is preferably one or more of octanoyl hydroxamic acid, allantoin, ceramide, nicotinamide, vitamin C derivatives, arbutin, tranexamic acid and yeast/hydrolytic yeast; the pH regulator is preferably one or more of arginine, sodium citrate, citric acid, phosphoric acid, tartaric acid, sodium dihydrogen phosphate and triethanolamine, and the preservative is preferably one or more of methylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, isobutyl paraben, propyl paraben, potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate, and the addition of the preservative meets the relevant national standard and does not affect the efficacy of the skin composition.

The invention also provides a cosmetic which is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 5 to 10 parts of the skin composition, 80 to 150 parts of humectant, 20 to 60 parts of softening agent, 20 to 60 parts of thickener, 0 to 20 parts of skin conditioner and 500 to 1000 parts of water; in the invention, the raw materials of the cosmetic comprise 5-10 parts, more preferably 7-9 parts, of the skin-improving composition, the raw materials of the cosmetic comprise 80-150 parts, more preferably 90-120 parts, of a humectant, and the humectant is preferably one or more of glycerin, trehalose, tocopherol, acetylglucosamine, hexanediol, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane and glucan; the raw materials of the cosmetics comprise 20-60 parts of softening agent, more preferably 30-40 parts, and the softening agent is preferably one or more of cyclopentadimethicone, dimethiconol and plant sterol canola oil glycerides; the raw materials of the cosmetic comprise 20-60 parts, more preferably 40-50 parts, of a thickening agent, wherein the thickening agent is preferably one or two of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, and the raw materials of the cosmetic comprise 500-1000 parts, more preferably 700-800 parts of water; the raw materials of the cosmetic also preferably comprise a preservative, wherein the preservative is preferably selected from methylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, isobutyl paraben, propylparaben, potassium sorbate and sodium benzoate, and the addition of the preservative meets the relevant national standard and does not influence the efficacy of the skin composition in the cosmetic; the raw materials of the cosmetic comprise 0-20 parts of skin conditioning agent, more preferably 10-15 parts, and the skin conditioning agent is one or more selected from jojoba seed oil, allantoin, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and arginine.

The technical solutions provided by the present invention are described in detail below with reference to examples, but they should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

Cell culture fluid:cell culture broth from S2 Fibroblast Medium Complete Kit, available from Lifeline Cell Technology, usa under the trade designation: LL-0011;

retinol: purchased from Shanghai Ke Qin technologies Co., ltd;

recombinant type III human collagen: purchased from nanking norvigilance health technologies limited.

Example 1

Preparing a skin-improving composition: mixing retinol and type III recombinant human collagen, wherein the weight ratio of the retinol to the recombinant type III human collagen is 0.005:0.0025.

Example 2

Preparing a skin-improving composition: mixing retinol and type III recombinant human collagen, wherein the weight ratio of retinol to recombinant type III human collagen is 0.0075:0.0025.

Example 3

Preparing a skin-improving composition: mixing retinol and type III recombinant human collagen, wherein the weight ratio of the retinol to the recombinant type III human collagen is 0.005:0.16.

Example 4

The skin-improving composition of example 1 was dissolved in a cell culture medium to give a concentration of 0.005% by mass of retinol in the skin-improving composition after dissolution, and a concentration of 0.0025% by mass of recombinant human collagen type III in the skin-improving composition.

Example 5

The skin-improving composition of example 1 was dissolved in a cell culture medium to give a concentration of 0.0075% by mass of retinol in the skin-improving composition after dissolution, and a concentration of 0.0025% by mass of recombinant human collagen type III in the skin-improving composition.

Example 6

The skin-improving composition of example 1 was dissolved in a cell culture medium to give a concentration of 0.005% by mass of retinol in the skin-improving composition after dissolution and a concentration of 0.16% by mass of recombinant human collagen type III in the skin-improving composition.

Example 7

The composition prepared in example 1 was added to cosmetics, and specifically prepared as a essence in this example, and the preparation method of the essence was as follows:

weighing 30g of jojoba seed oil, 30g of cyclopentadimethicone, 10g of cyclopentadimethicone/dimethiconol, 7g of phytosterol canola oil glyceride and 1g of tocopherol, and uniformly dispersing and mixing to prepare a phase A;

weighing 10g of trehalose, 1g of allantoin, 1g of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 10g of polyethylene glycol-75, 0.2g of EDTA disodium, 5g of cetostearyl olive oleate/sorbitan olive oleate, 50g of glycerin, 9.1g of the skin improving composition prepared in example 1, 10g of chitosan amine, 5g of bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane, 50g of butanediol, 1.7g of arginine, 4g of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and 566g of water, stirring and dissolving at 70 ℃, and then adding the phase A, and uniformly mixing to obtain a phase B;

after the phase B is stirred and dissolved and is completely cooled to 45 ℃, 195g of water, 2g of acrylic acid (ester) or C10 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer and 2g of glucan are added, the mixture is stirred and mixed uniformly, the mixture is stirred and cooled to 35 ℃ for discharging, and the essence is obtained, wherein the weight percentage concentration of the skin composition improving substance prepared in the example 1 in the essence is 0.91%.

Comparative example 1

The retinol was diluted to a mass percent concentration of 0.005% with cell culture medium.

Comparative example 2

The recombinant human collagen III is diluted by a cell culture medium until the mass percentage concentration is 0.0025%.

Experimental example 1

Human primary dermal fibroblasts (purchased fromCell Technology Co.) at 37deg.C with 5% CO ₂ Culturing in a saturated humidity incubator. After the cells grow to more than 80% of the fusion, the cells are digested and inoculated into a 12-well plate, and are further cultured for 48 hours for testing. Cells were treated with the compositions prepared in examples 4-6 and comparative examples 1-2, respectively, for 24 hours, the supernatant was discarded, and 1mL of pre-chilled Phosphate Buffer (PBS) was used for 2 times per well, followed by preparation of cell lysate with RNA extraction reagent. Collecting lysate samples, uniformly extracting total RNA of cells, reversely transcribing into cDNA, detecting the expression level of type III collagen (COL 3A 1) and Elastin (ELN) genes by using real-time fluorescence quantitative PCR, and obtaining a result of 2 ^-ΔΔCt And (3) analyzing and quantifying by using the method to obtain the gene expression quantity of each group of cells. Primer sequences for PCR testing are shown in Table 1.

TABLE 1PCR test primer sequences (1)

All results are expressed as mean±sd, the comparison of the measured data differences using the unpaired t-test, P <0.05 being considered statistically significant as the differences, the results being shown in table 2 below and fig. 1.

TABLE 2 Gene expression level data results

	COL3A1	ELN
			Blank group	100±16.7	100±7.82
Comparative example 1	126.77±13.98*	132.11±10.41*
			Comparative example 2	91.34±10.41	114.68±15.22
Example 4	134.09±10.84*	159.60±17.11* ^#
			Example 5	163.43±10.09* ^#	165.78±16.69* ^#
Example 6	128.93±8.84％*	134.00±17.11％*

As can be seen from the results, the compositions prepared in examples 1-3 of the present invention all promote the expression of type III collagen and elastin genes, and the difference is statistically significant (P < 0.05). And the effect of promoting expression of elastin of examples 1-2 was significantly better than that of example 3 (P < 0.05). The product prepared in comparative example 1 was able to promote gene expression of type III collagen and elastin, but the promoting effect on both type III collagen and elastin was smaller than that of the compositions prepared in examples 1 and 2. The product prepared in comparative example 2 was unable to promote the expression of type III collagen gene and was able to promote the expression of elastin gene, but the difference was not statistically significant (P > 0.05). Therefore, in promoting the expression of the type III collagen and elastin genes, the promoting effect of the compounding of retinol and type III collagen is superior to the effect of retinol alone, and the effect is related to the specific ratio in the present invention.

Experimental example 2

The key events that occur in skin sensitization are: the binding of sensitizers to cell surface proteins, activation of dendritic cells and keratinocytes, activation of T lymphocytes, and the mediating of sensitization effects. Wherein the final purpose of activating dendritic cells and keratinocytes is to activate antigen presenting cells, enabling them to activate T cells. The h-CLAT test method was therefore used to evaluate whether the composition prepared in example 1 was sensitized. After the composition prepared in example 1 was treated with human mononuclear leukemia cells for 24 hours, the sensitization and non-sensitization were determined by detecting changes in the expression of cell surface proteins (CD 86 and CD 54) by flow cytometry. CD86 and CD54 are typical indicators of monocyte activation, and can characterize the activation of dendritic cells during sensitization, which plays a key role in T cell activation.

The experiments were divided into solvent control and experimental groups (example 1 and example 2), each group being provided with 4 groups of CD54, CD54 isotype control, CD86 and CD86 isotype control, each group being provided with 3 replicate wells. To 24 well plates corresponding to the solvent control and experimental groups (example 1 and example 2), 500. Mu.L of dimethyl sulfoxide and the compositions of example 1 and example 2 (dissolved in dimethyl sulfoxide) at a concentration of 3472. Mu.g/mL were added, respectively. Human mononuclear leukemia THP-1 cells (Guangdong Boxi Biotechnology Co., ltd.) in logarithmic growth phase were collected at a cell density of 1X 10 ⁶ The cells were inoculated into 24-well plates at a temperature of 37℃in an incubator (5% CO ₂ ) And incubated for 24h. After the cell incubation was completed, the cells were collected into a 1.5mL centrifuge tube. The collected cell suspension was placed in a centrifuge, centrifuged at 3000rpm for 5min, the supernatant was discarded, and after washing the cells 3 times with PBS buffer containing 0.1% calf serum albumin, anti-CD 86 and CD54 antibodies or isotype control antibodies were added and incubated at 4℃for 1h. After the incubation, cells were washed 3 times with PBS buffer containing 0.1% calf serum albumin, 1mL of PBS buffer containing 0.625. Mu.g/mL propidium iodide was added to each tube, and the expression of CD86 and CD54 molecules was measured by an up-flow cytometer. The abundance of expression of each set of CD86 and CD54 molecules is expressed as Mean Fluorescence Intensity (MFI), while the changes in expression of example 1 that trigger CD86 and CD54 are expressed as Relative Fluorescence Intensity (RFI), which is calculated as follows:

the experimental results are shown in table 3:

TABLE 3 summary of the results of the expression levels of CD86 and CD54

	RFI _CD54	RFI _CD86
			Solvent control group	100％	100％
Experimental group (example 1)	118.13％	85.15％
			Experimental group (example 2)	111.84％	85.77％

According to OECD442E, RFI _CD54 RFI with < 200 as negative reaction _CD54 Positive reaction is not less than 200; RFI (radio frequency identification) _CD86 RFI with < 150 as negative reaction _CD86 And the positive reaction is more than or equal to 150.

The test results showed that the composition prepared in example 1 had RFI _CD54 < 200, negative response; RFI (radio frequency identification) _CD86 < 150, negative response. RFI of the composition prepared in example 2 _CD54 < 200, negative response; RFI (radio frequency identification) _CD86 < 150, negative response. The invention shows that the irritation of the retinol can be reduced after the III-type recombinant human collagen and the retinol are specifically compounded.

Experimental example 3

33 volunteers (females aged 23 to 40 years, average value of F4 under the cheekbone of the left and right faces was higher than 6 or average value of R2 on both sides was not higher than 0.65) were enrolled in the anti-aging effect test of the essence. The volunteers used the essence prepared in example 7 1 time each day in the morning and evening for 4 weeks. The random side cheeks were tested for skin moisture (Corneometer CM 825) and skin elasticity (Cutometer MPA 580) before, after 1 week, 2 weeks and 4 weeks of use of the serum.

A total of 30 volunteers completed the test, and skin moisture and elasticity were tested on the cheek on the random side before and after 1, 2 and 4 weeks of the serum application, and the results are shown in table 4.

Table 4 statistics of skin moisture and elasticity before and after use of the essence

As can be seen from table 4, the skin moisture content of the serum group was significantly improved by 8.5% and 19.8% (P < 0.05) respectively after 2 and 4 weeks of use compared to the serum before use.

The smaller the F4 value, the more compact the skin is characterized. Compared with the essence before use, after the essence is used for 2 weeks and 4 weeks, the skin elasticity F4 parameter of the essence group is remarkably improved, and the skin elasticity F4 parameter is remarkably reduced by 9.0 percent and 11.8 percent respectively (P is less than 0.05).

The skin elasticity R2 value is considered as the value of the parameter closest to the true state of skin elasticity, the larger the value is, the better the skin elasticity is. As can be seen from table 4, the skin elasticity R2 parameter of the serum group was significantly improved by 4.3% and 8.7% (P < 0.05) respectively after 2 weeks and 4 weeks of use compared to the serum before use.

In summary, the essence containing the composition prepared in example 1 was used for 2 weeks, and was able to significantly improve skin moisture, elasticity and firmness.

According to the embodiment, the recombinant III-type human-derived collagen and the retinol are used in a specific ratio, so that the effect of synergistically promoting the generation of the III-type collagen and the elastin can be realized, the skin elasticity can be improved, the irritation of the retinol can be reduced, the skin moisture, the elasticity and the compactness can be remarkably improved, and the compound efficacy of the recombinant III-type human-derived collagen and the retinol can be effectively maintained.

The foregoing is merely a preferred embodiment of the present invention and it should be noted that modifications and adaptations to those skilled in the art may be made without departing from the principles of the present invention, which are intended to be comprehended within the scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. The skin-improving composition is characterized by comprising recombinant type III human collagen and retinol, wherein the weight ratio of the recombinant type III human collagen to the retinol in the skin-improving composition is 1:0.01-5.

2. The skin conditioning composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of recombinant type III human collagen to retinol in the skin conditioning composition is 1:0.03-3.

3. The skin conditioning composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the concentration of recombinant type III human collagen in the skin conditioning composition is 0.002% to 0.2% by mass.

4. The skin conditioning composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the concentration of retinol in the skin conditioning composition is 0.005% to 0.01% by mass.

5. Use of a skin conditioning composition according to any of claims 1 to 4 for the preparation of a skin anti-ageing product.

6. The cosmetic is characterized by being prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight:

the skin conditioning composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the skin conditioning composition comprises 5 to 10 parts of a humectant 80 to 150 parts of a emollient, 20 to 60 parts of a thickener 20 to 60 parts of a skin conditioner 0 to 20 parts of water 500 to 1000 parts.

7. The cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the humectant is one or more selected from the group consisting of glycerin, trehalose, tocopherol, acetylglucosamine, hexylene glycol, bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethylsilane and dextran.

8. The cosmetic product according to claim 6, wherein said emollient is selected from one or more of cyclopentadimethicone, dimethiconol and phytosterol canola oil glycerides.

9. The cosmetic product according to claim 6, wherein the thickener is selected from one or both of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer and alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer.

10. The cosmetic according to claim 6, wherein the skin conditioner is selected from one or more of jojoba seed oil, allantoin, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate and arginine.