CN116507236A - Jewelry element and method of manufacturing jewelry element - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a jewelry element having a metal body and at least one gemstone and a method for manufacturing a jewelry element having a metal body and at least one gemstone. According to the invention, the gemstone is cast regionally into the metal of the jewelry element, wherein first and second holding elements are formed, the contact surfaces of which bear directly against the gemstone. This makes it possible to use only a few holding elements while ensuring a high strength of the connection between the gemstone and the metal body of the jewelry element, thereby enabling a special arrangement on the jewelry element and/or a particularly large free visible surface of the gemstone.

Description

Jewelry element and method of manufacturing jewelry element

technical field

The invention relates to a jewelry element comprising a metal body and at least one precious stone.

The invention also relates to a method for producing such a jewelry element.

Background technique

Jewelry elements are known in various embodiments, generally comprising a metal body and one or more precious stones.

The gemstones are usually arranged in sockets attached to the metal body. Examples of corresponding jewelry elements are rings, earrings and pendants.

These jewelry elements generally have a front view from which they are primarily viewed when in use and/or displayed for sale. The main view of the ring is at the top, and the main view of the earrings and pendants is at the front.

The purpose of producing a jewelry element with at least one precious stone is generally to exhibit a particularly favorable effect of said at least one precious stone. One aspect here is that the stones are displayed particularly freely, ie clearly visible. Another aspect is the arrangement of gemstones on jewelry elements in a special manner. This particular arrangement of gemstones can be achieved, for example, by an unusual positioning of the gemstones relative to the body of the jewelry element.

At the same time, the at least one precious stone must be held securely on the jewelry element. In known jewellery, this is done with the help of a socket into which the stone is placed and fixed by machining of the socket element.

However, the known mounts limit the visibility and arrangement possibilities of the stones on the jewelry element.

The gemstone orientation described below is used herein as the vertical orientation. The main face of the gemstone is defined as the upper part. Along the vertical axis of the gemstone, there is a region in a common cut where the diameter of the gemstone in the horizontal direction is the largest. In the case of brilliant cut diamonds, this is the band. In this region, the gemstone is held in the known socket at generally opposing points, wherein elements of the socket protrude in a region over the upper side of the gemstone, so that the upper side is partially covered.

The arrangement of the stones on the metal body has been quite problematic so far without such a separate mount.

Although tension rings have also been known from the prior art which achieve retention of the gemstone in the milled setting by the inherent tension of the ring at both ends of the split ring, the positionability of the gemstones is not even in the case of tension rings. This is very limited, since this way of setting the stone along at least one axis also requires two opposing holding elements acting on the stone in the region with the largest diameter.

Contents of the invention

It is therefore the object of the present invention to provide a jewelry element which enables secure holding of at least one gemstone on the metal body of the jewelry element without the need for setting the stones in conventional sockets.

According to the invention, this task is solved by a jewelry element according to claim 1 .

The invention solves this problem in that the gemstones are cast in areas on the metal body of the jewelry element.

A further object of the invention is to provide a method for producing corresponding jewelry elements.

According to the invention, this object is solved by the method according to claim 9 .

The dependent claims present advantageous embodiments of the invention.

The features of the jewelery elements disclosed below and of the method for producing them form an integral part of the invention in all possible combinations.

The jewelry element of the invention has a metal body and at least one gemstone.

According to the invention, for example diamonds, sapphires or rubies can be used as gemstones. In principle, however, all gemstones known in the field of jewelry can also be used according to the invention.

In this case, gemstones usually have a cut that produces a plurality of surfaces arranged at an angle to one another, ie facets (or facets). An example of this gem cut is the brilliant cut of a diamond. Other types of cuts are, for example, octagonal, pear-shaped, rosette, scissors, emerald or baguette. Of course, there are many other cuts familiar to those skilled in the art, which can also be used in accordance with the invention for the gemstones of the jewelry elements of the invention.

However, stones with a round or rounded cut, for example in the form of a sphere, may also be used according to the invention.

For example, noble metals can be used as material for the metal body. Preference is given to using gold, silver or platinum. In particular, corresponding alloys such as 333 gold, 585 gold, 750 gold, 900 gold as well as platinum, yellow or red gold, sterling silver, 650 or 950 platinum can also be used.

According to the invention, at least one jewel is fixed in or on the metal body, preferably by a combination of a first holding element which receives and holds the first region of the stone and a second holding element which receives and holds the first area of the stone. Keep the second area of the gem.

In this case, the holding element is designed in such a way that a reliable fixation of the stone to the metal body of the jewelry element is achieved.

At the same time, in a preferred embodiment, the size of the retaining element is reduced to such an extent that as large a proportion of the surface of the gemstone as possible is free, ie not covered or concealed by the retaining element.

The retaining element provides contact points in each of the three spatial dimensions at which contact surfaces of the retaining element come into direct contact with the gemstone, thereby immobilizing it. It is known that, if the shape of the object is suitable, it is possible to fix the object in a spatial direction lying in a plane by means of at least three suitably arranged contact points. In any case, at least four properly arranged contact points are sufficient to hold the object in a plane.

According to the invention, this is achieved by arranging the retaining elements in two distinct zones, the first zone being below the second zone in a vertical orientation with respect to the gemstones being held. The first zone is the area below the largest diameter of the gemstone in the horizontal plane. The second zone is above the maximum diameter of the gemstone in the horizontal plane, but may also extend down into the region of maximum diameter of the gemstone, or extend below the maximum diameter of the gemstone, so that in embodiments of the invention, these regions may also overlapping.

In the horizontal direction, the second zone extends in a preferred embodiment along at most half of the outer circumference of the gemstone in the region of said largest diameter region, in a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention along less than half.

The first holding element has a recess or an opening into which the held stone partially projects in a first direction on a first side. In this case, at least three contact points are provided by the first holding element at which the stone rests directly on the contact surface of the holding element.

Preferably, said at least three contact points are in a horizontal plane with respect to the vertical orientation of the stone such that the stone is positioned in a spatial direction in the plane and additionally in a first direction perpendicular to the plane. Keep.

In one embodiment of the invention, the contact surface of the first holding element abuts directly in a surrounding area along the circumference of the gemstone on this area.

In an embodiment of the invention, the diameter of the first retaining element is at most the diameter of the gemstone to be retained.

The second retaining element is configured such that it is in contact with the gemstone in the second region. In this case, the second holding element is in contact with the stone at least on a second side opposite the first side.

In an advantageous embodiment, the second holding element is configured such that it is simultaneously in contact with the gemstone on a third side which lies in a direction perpendicular to the first direction.

A "side" in the sense herein is not identical to a surface formed, for example, by facets of a gemstone, but refers to the visible surface of the gemstone when viewed from a spatial direction.

The stone is thus held in all spatial directions by only two holding elements. Since the contact surface of the retaining element rests directly on the stone, no tilting or tipping of the stone is possible.

The retaining element is integral with the metal body of the jewelry element. This is achieved in particular in that the retaining element is an integral part of the metal body, ie cast in one piece with it.

In particular, according to the invention, the at least one precious stone is cast into the metal body of the jewelry element in regions such that the at least one precious stone is directly contacted by the contact surface of the holding element.

Unlike traditional gemstone setting, the way the gemstone is cast in according to the invention enables the holding device to be precisely adapted to the shape of the gemstone. Therefore, the gemstone can be securely secured with fewer holding points.

In an embodiment of the invention, a particularly high stability of the holding of the stone is achieved in that the holding element forms contact surfaces, at least one of which extends over at least two adjacent facets of the stone .

It is particularly preferred if the first holding element has an opening into which the gemstone protrudes in a region. On the one hand, the opening through the holding element can save material and thus also the weight of the jewelry element, and on the other hand, light can reach the gemstone through this opening. This enhances the brilliance of the stone.

Overlap of a gemstone in the sense of this document is defined as the percentage share of the visible surface of the gemstone that is hidden from a certain angle by the metallic body of the jewelry element.

In an embodiment of the invention, the overlap of the stones is between at least about 1% and a maximum of about 50%, as viewed from the second side (which in embodiments of the invention is the front view side of the piece of jewelry).

The minimum value for the degree of overlap is determined by the requirements regarding the reliable fixing of the gemstone to the jewelry element. The degree of overlap seen from the second side is determined by the size and shape of the second retaining element. The second retaining element has a width B and a depth T. The depth T is the length of the second retaining element protruding from the outside toward the center of the gemstone, and the width B is the length of the second retaining element protruding beyond the periphery of the gemstone toward the center of the jewel.

In order to ensure a secure fixation of the stone taking into account a certain deformability of the metal body material, the second holding element must have a sufficient thickness. Instead, the maximum value of the degree of overlap mainly comes from the requirement of gemstone visibility. However, by reducing the size of the retaining element, it is also possible to save material of the metal body of the jewellery.

Preferably, the overlap of the stones from the second side is between at least about 1% and a maximum of about 25%.

It is particularly preferred that the overlap of the gemstones from the second side is at least about 1%, and at most about 15%.

In order to ensure a higher mechanical stability of the fixation of the gemstone by the second holding element, in an embodiment the degree of overlap is at least about 5% in the case of the above-mentioned overlapping intervals.

In an embodiment of the invention, said at least one gemstone protrudes laterally beyond the metal body in a direction opposite to the third side.

Thus, in an embodiment of the invention, if the first retaining element is neglected, the vertical axis of the stone lies outside the ring body.

In embodiments of the invention in which the material-fit and/or form-fit connection between gemstone and metal body is achieved by casting the gemstone in the region of the respective contact surfaces, no overlapping can also be achieved in these embodiments. variants of . In particular, variants are possible which have only a single retaining element, which possibly receives and retains a gemstone only on one side.

According to a preferred sequence of the method of the invention for manufacturing jewelry elements, the stones are positioned in a mold made of elastic material, such as silicone.

Wax is then injected into the mold cavity. After the wax has cooled, the mold is opened and the wax-cast preform of the jewelry element is removed together with the gemstones cast in it and flanged to the wax tree.

A cuvette is then fabricated of an insert material, such as plaster, around the wax-cast tree. In an embodiment of the invention, the cuvettes are cast.

The cuvette is then heated so that the wax is melted out.

The metal or alloy provided for the jewelry element is melted and cast into the cuvette, preferably by centrifugal casting.

Here, the cavity in the cuvette that was initially filled with wax is filled with molten metal. Here, the stones are held in predetermined positions by the cuvette.

Finally, the cuvette is broken and the jewelry element with the metal body can be removed with the cast stones.

Since the stones are held in a predetermined position in the cuvette, an arrangement of the stones on the jewelry element is achieved in which arrangement the stones are at least partially outside the basic shape of the body of the jewelry element.

In the method according to the invention, the gemstone is surrounded regionally along its surface by molten metal.

In this case, in an embodiment of the invention, the metal can penetrate into the surface structure of the stone and produce a cohesive and/or form-fitting connection.

A non-positive connection can also be achieved in an embodiment of the method.

Preferably, diamonds can be used as gemstones. It is also preferred that gold or a gold-containing alloy is used as metallic material.

Of particular interest are the temperatures at which the molten metal is cast into the cuvette. This temperature must be high enough that the metal or corresponding metal alloy is still liquid enough, but low enough that the gemstone is not destroyed.

In an embodiment variant of the method according to the invention, the gemstone formed as a diamond is cast in gold, in these embodiments the temperature at which the metal is cast into the cuvette is between 550° C. and 600° C.

Furthermore, silver and platinum, for example, can also be used as noble metals, and corresponding alloys containing noble metals and, for example, emeralds and rubies can be used as precious stones.

However, base metals and their alloys as well as base precious stones are also envisaged for more cost-effective jewelry elements.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, a gemstone protectant is mixed into the material of the cuvette, eg plaster as embedding material, in order to better protect the gemstone during casting.

The gem is surrounded by molten metal regionally along its surface. In this case, the metal rests directly on the surface of the gemstone, and in a corresponding embodiment of the invention, on the facets of the gemstone, so that no air gap forms between the gemstone and the metal of the holder in the contact region. The gemstone is thus held in a materially and/or form-fitting manner.

After the metal has cooled sufficiently, the cuvette is broken and the jewelry element can be removed. The metal provides the setting bed for the gemstones. Therefore, important areas of the gem are still visible.

In an embodiment of the method according to the invention for producing a jewelry element, the jewelry element of the invention is produced.

Detailed ways

Exemplary embodiments of the invention are shown in the figures explained below. In the attached picture:

FIG. 1 shows a perspective view of a jewelry element ( 3 ) designed as a ring, which comprises a metal body ( 1 ) with precious stones ( 2 ). In the embodiment shown, the gemstone (2) is realized as a brilliant cut diamond.

Figure 2 shows a side view of another ring-shaped jewelry element (3) according to the invention.

Figure 3 shows another perspective view of the jewelry element (3) of the invention.

FIG. 4 shows another arrangement of stones ( 2 ) cast on the metal body ( 1 ) of an embodiment of the jewelry element ( 3 ) of the invention.

FIG. 5 shows a side view of the arrangement in FIG. 4 . In particular it can be seen that the metal body (1) has a projection realized by the first holding element (4) which holds and positions said stone (2) on its first side. The first holding element (4) is connected in one piece to the remaining region of the metal body (1) and is produced together with the latter during the casting process.

In the lower region of the jewel (2), the ring-shaped first holding element (4) provides a contact surface running around the circumference of the jewel (2), which contacts the jewel (2) along the circumference. Thus, at least four contact points are realized in the surrounding contact surface, which together support the stone ( 2 ) in one plane. Since the diameter of the stone (2) is larger than the diameter of the first holding element (4), the stone (2) is also supported in the first direction (downwards).

As can be seen in the perspective view of FIG. 6 , the first holding element ( 4 ) has an annular shape with a through opening ( 6 ). A very lightweight embodiment is thus provided. Furthermore, the gemstone (2) can be supported mechanically similarly to that in conventional sockets. The gemstone (2) protrudes partially into said opening (6) on its first side.

In the illustrated embodiment with a gemstone ( 2 ) configured as a brilliant-cut diamond, it protrudes with its lower point into the opening ( 6 ).

The arrangement of the first retaining element ( 4 ) on the metal body ( 1 ) is shown in more detail from the side view in FIG. 7 . It already protrudes laterally from the remaining course of the metal body (1), so that the gemstone (2) also protrudes laterally from the metal body (1). In particular, the central axis of the gemstone (2) runs outside the center of the metal body (1).

Figures 8 and 9 show another embodiment of a jewelry element (3) according to the invention with a first retaining element (4) visible in Figure 9 on the metal body (1) and in particular The second holding element (7) visible in Figure 8, said first holding element holds said stone (2) on a first side, said second holding element holds said stone (2) on its first side The opposite second and third sides remain. In this case, the second holding element ( 7 ) protrudes beyond the stone ( 2 ) in the region of the second side.

It can be seen from FIG. 10 that, unlike the embodiment according to FIGS. 4 to 7 , the first holding element ( 4 ) here has a base ( 5 ). Here, the gemstone (2) protrudes into a recess in the body of the first holding element (4).

FIG. 11 shows a side view of FIG. 10 .

FIG. 12 shows a cutaway view of a jewelry element ( 3 ) with gemstones ( 2 ) in the region of the metal body ( 1 ) according to an embodiment of the invention. The gemstone (2) is held on its first side (9) in a first zone by means of a first holding element (4) and on its second (10) and third side (11) in a second zone It is held by means of the second holding element (7).

The second holding element (7) is integrated into the basic shape of the metal body (1) and protrudes beyond the diameter of the stone (2) on the second side (10) of the stone (2).

Viewed from the fourth side ( 12 ) of the stone, the stone ( 2 ) is completely freely visible except for the area protruding into the first holding element ( 4 ).

In particular, said stone (2) is freely visible from a perspective view between the second side (10) and the fourth side (12).

The jewel (2) protrudes into the first holding element (4) in a first direction z. The third side (11) of the stone (2) is in the second direction y.

A top view of the second side ( 10 ) of the embodiment of the invention of the jewelry element ( 3 ) is shown in FIGS. 13A , 13B and 13C respectively.

In each case, the second retaining element ( 7 ) protrudes over a length T beyond the upper side of the stone ( 2 ) with a diameter D and has a width B . In all three embodiments, the width B is chosen to be approximately the same, while the length T decreases from Fig. 13A to Fig. 13C. Thus, the embodiment shown in Figure 13C has minimal overlap in the sense herein.

14A, 14B and 14C show three different embodiment variants according to the invention of the first retaining element ( 4 ) in side view (approximately when looking at the fourth side ( 12 ) of the respective stone ( 2 ). The stones ( 2 ) of all three embodiments have approximately the same diameter D. The diameter D1 of the first retaining element (4) in Fig. 14A is slightly smaller than the diameter D of the stone (2), while the diameter D1 of the first retaining element (4) in Figs. 14B and 14C is further reduced. Thereby, the visible surface area of the gemstone (2) from the angle shown is also increased, since a smaller area of the gemstone (2) protrudes into the first retaining element (4).

Further embodiments according to the invention of the second holding element ( 7 ) are shown in FIGS. 15A , 15B and 15C. In all three embodiments, the second retaining element (7) protrudes beyond the edge of the jewel (2) in a length T along a width B corresponding to about half the outer circumference of the jewel (2), wherein the length T is from FIG. The embodiment of 15A goes down to the embodiment of Fig. 15C. This also makes the degree of overlap of the stones smaller and smaller from Figures 15A to 15C.

16A, 16B and 16C show further embodiment variants of the second holding element ( 7 ).

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the second retaining element protrudes beyond the gemstone (2) along at most half, in a particularly preferred embodiment along less than half, the outer circumference of the gemstone (2) in the region with the largest diameter. ), so that the second zone is correspondingly limited in the horizontal direction.

Therefore, in all embodiments, in order to increase the mechanical stability of the support of the jewelry element (3), it can be provided that at least one area along the upper edge of the stone (2) has mechanical contact with the metal body (1). overlap. Preferably, the overlap extends only partially along the narrow upper edge region of the stone ( 2 ), in order to arrange the largest possible upper region of the stone ( 2 ) in a freely visible manner.

According to the invention it is provided that, in plan view, that is to say according to the assignment of the sides used above, from the second side (10) with at most 50% and/or less, or even only with a single side holding point gems (2). As a result, the gemstone (2) appears completely free and suspended in top view, so the observer wonders how the gemstone is held in the jewel holder.

The stone needs preferably at least 2 opposing horizontal points which ensure that the stone is held in place and thus prevent it from slipping out of the jewelry holder. They can also be designed with 3, 4, 5 or many additional holding points, as well as being fully materialized for the entire holding point in a mosaic of 360 degrees.

According to the invention, it is possible to use the lower body of the stone (herein referred to as the vertical holding point) so that the second holding point of the two opposite holding points can be dispensed with. Therefore, a lateral, horizontal and a lower, vertical holding point are utilized.

Therefore, the hitherto usual position in jewelry holders is changed so that the holding points no longer have to be opposite each other, but are held once on the side and once on the bottom. It is a combination of horizontal and vertical holding points.

Most gemstones are conical, shaped like an inverted cone. In order to be able to provide a vertical holding point under these conditions, the lower body of the stone must be handled with absolutely no movement by the lateral, horizontal holding point, otherwise the stone will fall from its vertical or horizontal holding point again at the slightest contact. slide out. Only when the stone cannot move and the point or side of the stone (as holding point) can no longer change, will the stone be fixed in its horizontal and vertical holding points and remain in its position in the jewelry.

In the manufacturing method of the present invention, the precious metal mainly flows to the set horizontal and vertical holding points. The precious metal contracts as it cools, preventing a gap from forming between the stone and the holding point. Thus, the stone is fixed absolutely immobile in said horizontal and vertical holding points.

When casting the gemstone into the metal body of the jewelry element, adhesive forces sometimes develop between the gemstone and the hardened metal, so that the gemstone can be held particularly firmly.

Claims (13)

1. A jewelry element (3) comprising a metal body (1) and at least one gemstone (2), characterized in that the gemstone (2) is cast into the metal of the metal body (1) in regions arranged on the metal body (1) in a manner. 2. Jewelry element (3) according to claim 1, characterized in that said at least one gemstone (2) is held only by a first holding element (4) and a second holding element (7), said The first holding element and the second holding element are implemented in one piece with the metal body (1). 3. Jewelry element (3) according to claim 2, characterized in that the holding element (4, 7) has a contact surface which rests directly on the gemstone. 4. Jewelry element (3) according to one of claims 2 and 3, characterized in that the first holding element (4) is received and held on a first side in a first zone below the area of maximum diameter of the stone The gemstone (2) also has a recess or opening (6) into which the gemstone (2) protrudes partly in a first direction at its first side, and the second retaining element (7 ) receives and retains said gemstone (2) on a second side opposite said first side in a second region at least partially above the area of greatest diameter of the gemstone. 5. Jewelry element (3) according to claim 4, characterized in that said second zone extends in the region of maximum diameter along at most half the circumference of the gemstone (2) in the horizontal direction. 6. Jewelry element (3) according to one of claims 2 to 5, characterized in that the diameter of the first holding element (4) corresponds at most to the diameter of the gemstone (2). 7. Jewelry element (3) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, in plan view of the second side of the stone (2), the visible surfaces of the stone have an overlap of approximately 1% to at most approximately 50%. 8. Jewelry element (3) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the gemstone (2) protrudes laterally beyond the side of the jewelry element (3) on a fourth side opposite the third side. metal body (1). 9. A method for manufacturing a jewelry element (3) having at least one gemstone (2), in the method: - positioning of the stones (2) in the mold made of elastic material, - Then fill the mold cavity with liquid wax, - the mold is opened after the wax has cooled and the wax-cast preform of the jewelry element (3) is removed together with the stones (2) cast into it, - and flanged to the wax-cast tree, - followed by the manufacture of cuvettes made of embedding material, preferably plaster, around the wax tree, - the cuvette is then heated, thereby melting the wax, - the metal or corresponding alloy provided for the jewelry element (2) is melted and cast into the cuvette, so that the cavity in the cuvette which was initially filled with wax is now filled with molten metal, wherein said gemstones (2) are held in a set position by the cuvette, and - Finally the cuvette is broken and the jewelry element ( 3 ) with the metal body ( 1 ) is removed together with the cast stone ( 2 ). 10. The method for manufacturing jewelry elements (3) according to claim 9, wherein the molten metal is cast into the cuvette at a temperature between about 550°C and 600°C. 11. The method for producing jewelry elements (3) according to any one of claims 9 and 10, characterized in that the molten metal is centrifugally cast into the cuvette. 12. The method for producing jewelry elements (3) according to any one of claims 9 to 11, characterized in that the cuvette is produced using an embedding material with a gem protectant. 13. The method for manufacturing a jewelry element (3) according to any one of claims 9 to 12, characterized in that the jewelry element (3) is manufactured according to one of claims 1 to 8.