CN116035937A - A kind of compound liquid crystal emulsifier and its application - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to A61K, in particular to a compound lamellar liquid crystal emulsifier and application thereof. The compound emulsifying agent comprises a liquid crystal emulsifying agent and a ceramide-like emulsifying agent. The present commonly used liquid crystal emulsifier can form a liquid crystal structure, but more lamellar liquid crystals with a cross structure are difficult to obtain and have poor uniformity. In addition, the liquid crystal emulsion is compounded with a common liquid crystal emulsifier to be used in skin care products, so that the skin feel can be improved, and meanwhile, the formula stability is improved.

Description

A kind of compound liquid crystal emulsifier and its application

technical field

The present invention relates to A61K, more specifically, the present invention relates to a compound layered liquid crystal emulsifier and its application.

Background technique

Liquid crystal emulsifiers can form an ordered liquid crystal structure, increase the stability of the structure, and reduce the long-range van der Waals force between droplets. When the lamellar liquid crystal emulsifier is used in cosmetics, it can improve the moisturizing property and the affinity to the skin, especially when the emulsifier contains components with a structure similar to that of ceramide in the stratum corneum of human skin, it is better than ordinary emulsifiers. The agent has a better moisturizing skin feeling and has a higher moisturizing ability.

Although the current liquid crystal emulsifier can form a liquid crystal structure, its quantity and shape are difficult to guarantee. Although patent CN111973490A introduces a skin care product with lamellar liquid crystal structure, including ceramides, phytosterols and emulsifier glyceryl stearate, etc., it does not provide liquid crystal form. Therefore, it is particularly important to develop an emulsifier formulation that can produce a stable liquid crystal structure.

Therefore, in order to improve the problem of fewer lamellar liquid crystals and poor uniformity, the present invention provides a compounded liquid crystal emulsifier. Compared with a single type of liquid crystal emulsifier, the compound emulsifier can significantly improve the shape, distribution and emulsified particle size of liquid crystal, and can be used in various skin care cosmetics to enhance the moisturizing effect and make the skin feel more moist.

Contents of the invention

In the first aspect, the present invention introduces a compound liquid crystal emulsifier, which is a composition of two components, including:

Component (a), one or several liquid crystal emulsifiers such as glucosides, glycerin fatty acid esters citrates, olive esters, phosphoric acid esters, lecithins and the like.

Component (b), fatty alcohol acyl amino acid ester and other ceramide-like emulsifiers, specifically fatty alcohol acyl amino acid ester, fatty alcohol acyl amino acid diester, a mixture of fatty alcohol acyl amino acid ester and fatty alcohol acyl amino acid diester species or several.

Wherein, the weight ratio of component (a) and component (b) is 50:1-1:50.

Examples of glucoside emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, arachidyl glucoside, coco glucoside, cetearyl glucoside, and lauryl glucoside.

Examples of glyceryl fatty acid ester citrate emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl oleate citrate, hydrogenated tallow glyceryl citrate, glyceryl cocoate / Citrates / Lactates.

Examples of olive ester emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated myristyl olive ester, hydrogenated stearyl olive ester, olive oil decyl ester, hydrogenated olive oil decyl ester, cetearyl olive oil ester , Sorbitan Olivate.

Examples of phosphate emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, octyldecyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate, and isodecyl phosphate.

Examples of lecithin emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, hydrogenated lecithin, lecithin.

As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the fatty alcohol acyl amino acid ester is selected from bis-C24-28 hydroxyalkyl olive oil acyl glutamate, palmitoyl aspartic acid diethyl ester, acetylaspartic acid Diethyl Ester, Dicapryl Cystine Dimethyl Ester, Diacetyl Cystine Dimethyl Ester, Dioctyldodecyl Stearoyl Glutamate, Dioctyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate , dihexyldecyl lauroyl glutamate, etc., preferably dioctyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate.

In the second aspect, the present invention provides an application of a compound liquid crystal emulsifier in cosmetics. The ceramide-like emulsifier fatty alcohol acyl amino acid ester in the compound liquid crystal emulsifier accounts for 0.1-10% by weight of the skin care product. The weight percentage of the compound liquid crystal emulsifier in the skin care product is 0.1-20%.

As an example of a compounded liquid crystal emulsifier, the compounded liquid crystal emulsifier accounts for 0.5 to 10% by weight of the skin care product, for example, 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5% , 6%, 7%, 8%, 9%, 10%.

As a preferred technical solution of the present invention, the skin care product also includes one or more of emollients, preservatives, pH regulators, moisturizers, thickeners, ultraviolet absorbers, skin conditioners, and co-emulsifiers. Various.

Examples of emollients include, but are not limited to, behenic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, isostearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, caprylic/capric triglycerides, Isopropyl myristate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Jojoba Esters, Sucrose Cocoate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Isocetyl Palmitate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate, Tocopherol Linoleate and oils from natural sources such as avocado (PERSEA GRATISSIMA) oil, sweet almond (PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS) oil, apricot (PRUNUS ARMENIACA) kernel oil, thorn tree (ARGANIA SPINOSA) kernel oil, oil palm (ELAEIS GUINEENSIS) ) Kernel Oil, Olive (OLEA EUROPAEA) Fruit Oil, Olive (OLEA EUROPAEA) Shell Oil, Grape (VITISVINIFERA) Seed Oil, Sunflower (HELIANTHUS ANNUUS) Seed Oil, Jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) Seed Oil, Babassu (ORBIGNYA OLEIFERA) ) seed oil, camellia (CAMELLIA JAPONICA) seed oil, macadamia nut (MACADAMIATERNIFOLIA) seed oil, wheat (TRITICUM VULGARE) germ oil, dog tooth rose (ROSA CANINA) fruit oil, ASTROCARYUM MURUMURU (ASTROCARYUM MURUMURU) seed fat, SHOREA ROBUSTA seed butter, BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII fruit butter, COPERNICIA CERIFERA wax, EUPHORBIACERIFERA wax, beeswax, lanolin. In one embodiment, the emollient accounts for 5-30% by weight of the skin care product, for example, 5%, 10%, 12%, 14%, 16%, 18%, 20%, 25%, 28%, 30%.

Examples of preservatives include, but are not limited to, sodium benzoate, phenoxyisopropanol, benzalkonium chloride, lorazonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylchloroisothiazolinone , Methylisothiazolinone, Methylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Butylparaben, Chlorphenesin, Sorbic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Dehydroacetic Acid , salicylic acid, caprylyl hydroxamic acid.

Examples of pH adjusters include, but are not limited to, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, triethanolamine, citric acid, sodium citrate, disodium hydrogen phosphate, and succinic acid.

Examples of humectants include, but are not limited to, glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isopentyl glycol, hexylene glycol, erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, caprylyl glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyethylene Glycol, Polytetramethylene Glycol, Polyacrylic Acid, Sodium Polyglutamate, Betaine, Allantoin, Trehalose, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Pyrrolidone Hydroxylate, Lactic Acid Salt, lactate, glycerol polyethers, polysaccharides. In one embodiment, the moisturizing agent accounts for 5-20% by weight of the skin care product, for example, 5%, 8%, 10%, 12%, 14%, 16%, 18%, 20% %.

Examples of antioxidants include, but are not limited to, sodium metabisulfite, pentaerythritol tetrakis(bis-tert-butylhydroxyhydrocinnamate), p-hydroxyacetophenone, butylated hydroxytoluene, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbic acid.

Examples of thickeners include, but are not limited to, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, sodium polyacrylate grafted starch, acrylic acid (ester) copolymers, xanthan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, and carbomers.

Examples of skin conditioning agents include, but are not limited to, squalane, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, pearl powder, arbutin, ferulic acid, vitamin C, salicylic acid, boseine, ergothionein Gene, resveratrol, peptide, tetrahydromethyl pyrimidine carboxylic acid, hydroxy pinacolone retinoate, plant extracts such as shea butter tree (BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII) fruit butter extract, white willow (SALIX ALBA) bark extract , grape (VITIS VINIFERA) seed extract, ginseng (PANAX GINSENG) extract, magnolia officinalis (MAGNOLIA OFFICINALIS) bark extract, turmeric (CURCUMA LONGA) root extract, basil (OCIMUM BASILICUM) flower/leaf extract, horse Purslane (PORTULACA OLERACEA) extract, osmanthus (OSMANTHUSFRAGRANS) flower extract, millet (PANICUM MILIACEUM) seed extract, Sapindus (SAPINDUS MUKOROSSI) fruit extract, ginseng (PANAX GINSENG) root extract, fermentation products such as two Ferment filtrate of fission yeast, fermentation product of THERMUS THERMOPHILLUS, filtrate of fermentation product of galactosaccharomyces, fermentation product of Bacillus.

Examples of co-emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, lauryl alcohol, n-tetradecyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.

Currently commonly used liquid crystal emulsifiers such as component (a), although they can form a liquid crystal structure, it is difficult to obtain more lamellar liquid crystals with a cruciferous structure, and the uniformity is poor. In the present invention, by adding fatty alcohol acyl amino acid esters and other ceramide-like emulsifiers, while the amino acid ester structure and conventional liquid crystal emulsifiers have intermolecular interactions, the fatty acid chains are used to regulate the shape and arrangement of the liquid crystal structure to obtain a liquid crystal structure Regularity is also conducive to improving the uniformity of emulsified particle size and increasing the number and arrangement of lamellar liquid crystals with a cross-shaped structure. In addition, the compound liquid crystal emulsifier introduced in the present invention is used in skin care products, which can improve the stability of the formula while improving the skin feel.

Description of drawings

Fig. 1 is the image (A1-A6) of the liquid crystal structure observed under a polarizing microscope of the ceramide-like emulsifier in Example 1.

Fig. 2 is the image (B1, B2) of the liquid crystal structure observed under a polarizing microscope compounded with ceramide-like emulsifier and glucoside in Example 2.

Fig. 3 is an image (C1, C2) of the liquid crystal structure observed under a polarizing microscope compounded with ceramide-like emulsifier and glyceryl stearate citrate in Example 3.

4 is the image (D1, D2) of the liquid crystal structure observed under a polarizing microscope compounded with ceramide-like emulsifier and olive ester in Example 4.

Fig. 5 is an image (E1, E2) of the liquid crystal structure observed under a polarizing microscope compounded with a ceramide-like emulsifier and a lecithin emulsifier in Example 5.

Detailed ways

Next, the function of the ceramide-like emulsifier in the present invention and the application of the compound emulsifier in cosmetics will be described in conjunction with examples. It should be noted that for those skilled in the art, without departing from the principle of the present invention, some modifications and improvements can also be made to the synthesis method, and these should also be considered as belonging to the protection scope of the present invention.

Embodiment 1 A kind of skin care product formula containing ceramide emulsifier

A skin care product containing a ceramide-like emulsifier (component (b)) was prepared using the formulation shown in Table 1. The emulsified particle size, liquid crystal quantity and liquid crystal morphology were observed under a microscope, the results are shown in Table 1, and the Maltese cross image corresponding to the observed liquid crystal structure is shown in Figure 1.

Table 1

Continued Table 1

Embodiment 2 A kind of skin care product formula containing the compound emulsifier of glucoside component

A skin care product containing the compound emulsifier mentioned in the present invention (component (a) is glucoside) was prepared by adopting the formula shown in Table 2. The emulsified particle size, liquid crystal quantity and liquid crystal morphology were observed under a microscope, and the effect of the addition of ceramide-like emulsifiers on skin feel was compared and analyzed. The results are shown in Table 2; the Maltese cross image corresponding to the observed liquid crystal structure is shown in Figure 2.

Table 2

Embodiment 3 A kind of skin care product formula containing the compound emulsifier of glycerin fatty acid ester citric acid ester component adopts formula as shown in table 3 to prepare a kind of compound emulsifier containing the present invention (component (a) is a skin care product of glycerin fatty acid ester citrate). The emulsified particle size, liquid crystal quantity and liquid crystal morphology were observed under a microscope, and the effect of adding ceramide-like emulsifiers on skin feel was compared and analyzed. The results are shown in Table 3; the Maltese cross image corresponding to the observed liquid crystal structure is shown in Figure 3.

table 3

Embodiment 4 A kind of skin care product formula containing the compound emulsifier of olive ester component

A skin care product containing the complex emulsifier mentioned in the present invention (component (a) is olive esters) was prepared by adopting the formula shown in Table 4. The emulsified particle size, liquid crystal quantity and liquid crystal form were observed under a microscope, and the effect of the addition of ceramide-like emulsifiers on skin feel was compared and analyzed. The results are shown in Table 4; the Maltese cross image corresponding to the observed liquid crystal structure is shown in Figure 4.

Table 4

Embodiment 5 A kind of skin care product formula containing the compound emulsifier of lecithin class component

A skin care product containing the complex emulsifier mentioned in the present invention (component (a) is lecithin) was prepared by adopting the formula shown in Table 5. The emulsified particle size, liquid crystal quantity and liquid crystal morphology were observed under a microscope, and the effect of adding ceramide-like emulsifiers on skin feel was compared and analyzed. The results are shown in Table 5; the Maltese cross image corresponding to the observed liquid crystal structure is shown in Figure 5.

table 5

It can be seen from the test results that by adding the ceramide-like emulsifier provided by the invention and the conventional liquid crystal emulsifier compound, the integrity of the lamellar liquid crystal and the uniformity of the emulsified particle size can be effectively improved, the number of liquid crystal structures can be increased, and the skin feel.

Claims (10)

1. A composite liquid crystal emulsifier, characterized in that the raw materials include: a liquid crystal emulsifier, a ceramide-like emulsifier. 2. compound liquid crystal emulsifier according to claim 1, is characterized in that, described liquid crystal emulsifier comprises glucoside emulsifier, glycerin fatty acid ester citrate emulsifier, olive ester emulsifier, phosphoric acid ester Emulsifiers, one or more of lecithin emulsifiers. 3. The composite liquid crystal emulsifier according to claim 2, characterized in that, said liquid crystal emulsifier comprises one or more of glucoside emulsifiers, olive ester emulsifiers, and lecithin emulsifiers. 4. compound liquid crystal emulsifier according to claim 1, is characterized in that, described ceramide-like emulsion Chemical agents include one or several structural formulas

Representative fatty alcohol acyl amino acid ester; In the formula, R represents a saturated or unsaturated straight chain or branched chain hydrocarbon group with 8 to 22 carbon atoms; _R represents a saturated or unsaturated straight chain or branched chain hydrocarbon group with 5 to 18 carbon atoms. Hydrocarbyl; _R2 is a hydrogen atom, or the ester-forming residue of a polyol with a hydroxyl number of at least 2, or a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon group with a carbon number of 8 to 22, or a degree of polymerization of 1-12 polyether chains, R ₂ may be the same or different from R; m and n are the same or different integers between 0 and 3. 5. The compound liquid crystal emulsifier according to claim 4, characterized in that, said ceramide-like emulsifier is specifically fatty alcohol acyl amino acid ester, fatty alcohol acyl amino acid diester, fatty alcohol acyl amino acid ester and fatty alcohol acyl One or more of the mixture of amino acid diesters. 6. The compounded liquid crystal emulsifier according to any one of claims 1-5, characterized in that the weight ratio of the liquid crystal emulsifier to the ceramide-like emulsifier is 50:1-1:50. 7. An application of the compound liquid crystal emulsifier according to claim 6, characterized in that it can be used in skin care products. 8. The application of the compound liquid crystal emulsifier according to claim 7, characterized in that the weight percentage of the compound liquid crystal emulsifier in skin care products is 0.1-20%. 9. The application of the compound liquid crystal emulsifier according to claim 7, characterized in that, the weight percentage of the ceramide-like emulsifier in skin care products is 0.1-10%. 10. according to the application of the compound liquid crystal emulsifier described in claim 7 or 9, it is characterized in that, described skin care product also comprises emollient, preservative, pH regulator, humectant, thickener, ultraviolet absorber , one or more of skin conditioning agents, co-emulsifiers, and active ingredients.

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