CN105407861A - An anhydrous composition comprising a polyglycerin ester, a polyhydric alcohol and a surfactant - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention generally relates to anhydrous compositions for application to a target substrate, comprising a) at least one ester formed from a polyglycerol compound having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 12, at least one straight-chain saturated fatty acid having 16 to 28 carbons, and at least one aliphatic saturated dicarboxylic acid having 16 to 28 carbons; b) at least one tri- or more polyols, wherein the alcohol is present in the composition in an amount of 65% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and c) at least one surfactant selected from glycerol esters of fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains containing 14 to 30 carbon atoms optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof.

Description

Anhydrous composition comprising polyglycerol ester, polyol and surfactant

technical field

The present invention generally relates to anhydrous compositions for application to a target substrate. The present invention more particularly relates to anhydrous compositions having excellent moisturizing and warming effects when applied to target substrates, such as keratinous materials, especially the skin and lips.

Background of the invention

Compositions for the care and/or makeup of the skin and/or lips are produced in order to satisfy the need for moisturization of the skin and lips. Such compositions have traditionally used humectants, such as glycerin, 1,3-butanediol and sorbitol. In addition, main components of natural moisturizing factors such as pyrrolidone carboxylate and lactate, and sodium hyaluronate obtained through microbial production are also used.

EP1417955 discloses a wetting agent comprising component A, component B and component C, component A is at least glycerol or its condensate and straight chain saturated fatty acid with 16-28 carbons and straight chain saturated fatty acid with 16-28 carbons An ester compound of a mixture of chain saturated dibasic acids, more than half of the hydroxyl groups of at least one of glycerol and its condensates remain as hydroxyl groups in the ester compound, component B is a dibasic water-soluble alcohol, and component C is a tribasic Polyols with a value of 2 or more.

US2009/0123402 discloses a lip cosmetic comprising a) oligomers generated from behenic acid, eicosanedioic acid and glycerol condensates; b) polyhydric alcohols, c) water, d) An ester oil composed of a carboxylic acid having 36 carbon atoms and an alcohol having 1 to 36 carbon atoms and in liquid or paste form at normal temperature and e) an oily gelling agent.

It is to be understood that, in addition to the humectant component, water in conventional skin care or cosmetic compositions is also used to improve the hydration and cooling properties of the composition. However, the disadvantage is that this type of composition leaves too thin and runny film on the lips, which is not perceived as protective for lip application. In addition, the moisturizing properties brought by the water are not long-lasting, but drop off very quickly. Additionally, consumers tend to apply lip balm or lip gloss along with lipstick to address dry and rough lips. However, oil-in-water lip balms have a negative impact on lipstick and make-up comes off quickly.

There is therefore a need for anhydrous compositions for skin and lips, especially lip care/makeup, with improved moisturization and moisturizing. Furthermore, there is a need to find anhydrous compositions that are stable over time.

Surprisingly, the inventors have observed that using at least one polyglycerol compound, at least one linear saturated fatty acid with 16-28 carbons and at least one aliphatic fatty acid with 16-28 carbons Esters of saturated dibasic acids, at least one trivalent or higher polyhydric alcohol; and at least one selected from the group consisting of saturated or unsaturated chains with 14-30 carbon atoms optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups Surfactants of glycerides of fatty acids allow to obtain anhydrous cosmetic compositions that are stable and exhibit good skin and/or lip compatibility, moisturization and moisturizing properties. It also has a warming effect after application.

The "warming effect" brought about by the present invention allows target keratin materials such as skin and lips, especially lips, to obtain a heating effect by applying this example. Due to this warming or heating effect, the blood circulation or microcirculation in the lips is greatly improved, thereby improving the moisturizing effect.

In addition, the warming effect brings improved moisturization and moisturizing effect to the skin and lips, especially the lips in winter.

At the same time, this composition with high levels of polyols stabilizes and provides a warming action on the lips, making it especially suitable for winter use.

invention disclosure

The present invention therefore relates to an anhydrous composition comprising

a) at least one polyglycerol compound having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 12, at least one linear saturated fatty acid having 16-28 carbons, and at least one aliphatic saturated dibasic acid having 16-28 carbons the resulting esters;

b) at least one trivalent or higher polyol, wherein said alcohol is present in said composition at 65% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition; and

c) at least one surfactant selected from glycerides of fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains with 14 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

According to one embodiment, the present invention further comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.

According to another embodiment, the invention further comprises at least one wax.

According to yet another embodiment, the invention further comprises at least one pasty compound.

According to yet another embodiment, the invention comprises at least one additive different from the above-mentioned non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, waxes or pasty compounds.

Another object of the present invention relates to a method for the care and/or make-up of keratinous materials, in particular the skin and lips, comprising applying on keratinous materials, in particular the lips, a composition as described above.

Detailed description of the invention

The present invention is an anhydrous composition comprising a) at least one polyglycerol compound having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 12, at least one linear saturated fatty acid having 16-28 carbons and at least one having Esters of aliphatic saturated dibasic acids with 16-28 carbons; b) at least one trivalent or higher polyhydric alcohol, wherein the alcohol is present in an amount of 65% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition present in said composition; and c) at least one surfactant selected from glycerides of fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing 14 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous composition" means a composition containing less than 2% by weight, and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. Such small amounts of water may, if appropriate, be provided by ingredients of the composition containing residual amounts of water, rather than being provided intentionally.

The composition of the present invention preferably has a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 10 Pa·s.

The composition of the invention more preferably has a viscosity of 20 Pa·s to 50 Pa·s at 25°C, the composition even more preferably has a viscosity of 25 Pa·s at 25°C.

Viscosity measurements were performed using a rheometer Prorheo model R180 according to the manufacturer's instructions. The measurement procedure is as follows:

Thermostat the sample by placing it in a closed measuring tube in a thermostatic bath at 25°C;

Switch on the rheometer Prorheo model R180 and simultaneously press button 0 to adjust;

The sample was placed in the chamber of the rheometer and the viscosity was measured at 25°C.

Preferably, "keratin materials" according to the invention are skin and lips. "Skin" means all body skin, including the scalp. The keratin material is also preferably lips. According to a preferred embodiment, the invention is applied to the lips.

physiologically acceptable medium

Compositions according to the invention may comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.

The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to mean a medium particularly suitable for applying the composition according to the invention to the skin or lips.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally amenable to the nature of the carrier to which the composition is to be applied, and to the form in which the composition is to be packaged.

Ester compound

According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one polyglycerol compound having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 12, at least one linear saturated fatty acid having 16-28 carbons and at least one polyglycerol compound having 16-28 carbons Esters of aliphatic saturated dibasic acids.

The polyglycerols used to obtain the ester compounds of component a) more particularly have an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 12. The polyglycerol compound preferably has an average degree of polymerization of 5 to 10, and even more preferably about 10.

Specific examples of polyglycerols suitable for the present invention include diglycerol, triglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, decaglycerol, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably decaglycerol is used according to the invention.

It must be noted that the polyglycerol compound may be a mixture of different polyglycerol compounds having different degrees of polymerization.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the ester compound is obtainable from a mixture of polyglycerol compounds having an average degree of polymerization of 8 to 12.

The linear saturated fatty acids according to the invention have 16 to 28 carbons, preferably 18 to 28 carbons, and preferably 18 to 24 carbons. The fatty acid may further comprise at least a carbonyl group or at least a hydroxyl group in the fatty chain.

Examples of linear saturated fatty acids which may be preferably used in the present invention include palmitic acid, stearic acid, 10-hydroxystearic acid, 10-ketostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, montanic acid (montanoic acid) and mixtures thereof .

The fatty acid more preferably has a straight chain of 20 to 22 carbons. Furthermore, they do not contain carbonyl groups in the aliphatic chain, nor do they contain hydroxyl groups.

The linear saturated fatty acid according to the invention is preferably behenic acid.

Preferred aliphatic saturated dibasic acids useful in the present invention have 16 to 28 carbons, preferably 18 to 28 carbons, and more preferably 18 to 24 carbons.

The aliphatic saturated dibasic acid of the present invention more preferably has 20 to 22 carbons.

Examples of aliphatic saturated dibasic acids useful in the present invention include eicosanedioic acid, docosanedioic acid, tetracosanedioic acid, hexacosanedioic acid, octacosanedioic acid, and mixtures thereof .

The aliphatic saturated dibasic acid is preferably eicosanedioic acid.

The ester compound a) can be produced by performing the above-mentioned esterification reaction of a polyglycerin compound and an acid.

This esterification reaction can be carried out by, for example, (1) simultaneous esterification reaction of these three components; or (2) esterification of polyglycerol compound and linear saturated fatty acid and the resulting ester is then combined with aliphatic saturated dibasic acid or (3) esterification of a polyglycerol compound and an aliphatic saturated dibasic acid and then esterification or transesterification of the resulting ester with a linear saturated fatty acid.

The ester compound used in the present invention can be produced by any one of the above methods (1) to (3).

The esterification reaction may be advantageously carried out at a temperature of from 100 to 240° C. for several hours to 20 hours while removing by-product water.

This transesterification reaction is preferably carried out at 20 to 140° C. for several tens of minutes to several tens of hours using a catalyst such as a metal alcoholate or lipase.

The progress of these reactions can be monitored by measuring the acid value of the free acid composition in the reaction system. Completion of the reaction can be determined by such monitoring.

The reaction product of the esterification (transesterification) reaction may contain unreacted polyglycerol, linear saturated fatty acid, aliphatic saturated dibasic acid and may further contain by-products such as fatty acid and low molecular weight glyceride. The reaction product is thus advantageously purified by washing with water and removing by-products, for example by alkaline deacidification, followed more particularly by bleaching and deodorization.

The ester compound thus obtained is preferably a mixture of polyglycerol and behenic acid and eicosanedioic acid having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 12, preferably 5 to 10. The ester is preferably esterified in a network form and has a melting point of about 50 to 80°C.

The ester compound a) in the present invention is commercially available, such as polyglycerol-10 (behenate/eicosanedioate) sold under the trade name ^Nomcort® HK-P by Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd.

One or more ester compounds a) according to the invention are preferably present in an amount of 1% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 2% to 10% by weight, and more preferably 4% to 8% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition The amount of active material present in the cosmetic composition.

Polyol

According to the invention, the composition comprises at least one trihydric or higher polyol.

The trivalent or higher polyol is not particularly limited as long as it is a polyol having 3 or more hydroxyl groups in the molecule.

More particularly, the polyol is chosen from linear, branched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated compounds comprising 3 to 30 carbons.

Examples of suitable alcohols may include glycerol and polyglycerol compounds such as diglycerol, triglycerol, sorbitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, mono- or oligosaccharides (preferably disaccharides), such as glucose, galactose, fructose, Reducing compounds of sucrose, maltose, xylose, xylobiose, and oligosaccharides. These polyols can be used alone or in combination.

Among these polyols, glycerin is more preferred in the present invention.

According to another feature of the invention, said polyol is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 65% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of ester compound a) is more preferably 70% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably 70-80% by weight.

Surfactant

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one surfactant selected from glycerides and derivatives thereof of fatty acids having saturated or unsaturated chains containing 14 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. If the fatty acid is unsaturated, it contains 1 to 6 carbon-carbon double bonds.

Advantageously, the surfactant is chosen from glycerides of fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing 14 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups.

Such surfactants may be chosen from emulsifiers conventionally used in compositions for the care and/or make-up of keratinous materials, especially the skin and the lips, more especially the lips.

Examples of fatty acid moieties of surfactants useful according to the invention include palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, cerotic acid, palmitoleic acid, sapienic acid, Oleic acid, elaidic acid, octadecenoic acid, linoleic acid, elaidic acid (linoelaidicacid), arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, erucic acid, arachidic acid (riarachidic acid), ricinoleic acid ( cinoleic acid) and docosahexaenoic acid or mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the one or more surfactants are selected from glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl arachidate, glyceryl behenate, glycerol Oleate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Arachidonic Acid, Glyceryl Erucate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Ricinoleate and mixtures thereof.

Mention may especially be made of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl monostearate, distearate and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate and mixtures thereof.

Mixtures of surfactants may also be used, such as those sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, and those sold under the name Tegin by the company Goldschmidt containing glyceryl stearate (Glyceryl mono-distearate) and potassium stearate (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate SE).

According to a preferred embodiment, the product sold by Goldschmidt under the trade name Tegin is used in the present invention.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the present invention comprises at least mono-, di- or triglycerides or mixtures thereof, and preferably at least monoglycerides comprising fatty acids with saturated chains of 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

The composition according to the invention may comprise, for example, 1% to 10% by weight, preferably 3% to 5% by weight, more preferably 3.4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of Surfactants of substituted glycerides of fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain of 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils

The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, including non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based fluoro oils and non-volatile hydrocarbon-based non-polar oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils

In particular, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil may be selected from the following list of oils, and mixtures thereof:

- Hydrocarbon-based triglycerides, such as triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, caprylic/capric triglycerides, ricinuscommunis (castor) oil, cocosnucifera (coconut ) oil, jojoba oil, linumusitatissimum (linseed) oil, perseagratissima (avocado) oil, macadamia nut seed oil, limnanthesalba (white mango) seed oil, oleaeuropaea (olive) fruit oil, canola oil, prunusamygdalusdulcis (sweet almond) oil, elaeisguneenaeisguineensis (palm) oil, pomegranate seed oil, helianthusannuus (sunflower) seed oil, glycinesoja (soybean) oil, zeamays (corn) germ oil, carthamustinctorius (safflower) seed oil, sesamumindicum (sesame) seed oil, oryza sativa (rice) bran oil, Brazil nut seed oil; mention may especially be made of such a product sold under the trade name ^Myritol® 318 by Cognis (BASF), for example;

- Hydrocarbon-based mono- or diesters whose carboxylic acid residue contains 2 to 30 carbon atoms and the alcohol residue represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isononyl isononanoate, isonononyl Isotridecanyl Isotridecyl, Diisostearyl Malate, Oleyl Erucate, or 2-Octyldodecanyl Neopentanoate; Isopropyl Myristate;

- Polyesters obtained by condensation of dimers and/or trimers of unsaturated fatty acids and diols, such as those described in patent application FR0853634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may be made in this regard in particular of the polymers sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butylene glycol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA,

- Fatty alcohols containing 12 to 26 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, branched or straight chain, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecyl alcohol pentadecyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol or isostearyl alcohol; the alcohol is preferably branched; mention may be made of octyldodecanol, for example the product sold under the trade name Eutanol ^G® by the company BASF;

- saturated or unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₆ fatty acids such as oleic, linoleic and linolenic acids and mixtures thereof;

- a dialkyl carbonate, the 2 alkyl chains may be the same or different, such as dioctyl carbonate sold under the name ^CetiolCC® by Cognis; and

- non-volatile oils of high molecular mass, e.g. 650 to 10,000 g/mol, such as:

i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 (MW=7300g/mol) sold or manufactured by ISP,

ii) Ester oils such as:

a) straight-chain fatty acid esters with a total carbon number of 35 to 70, such as pentaerythritol tetrapelarganoate (MW=697.05 g/mol),

b) Hydroxylated esters, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate (MW=965.58g/mol),

c) Aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW=757.19g/mol),

d) Esters of C ₂₄ -C ₂₈ branched chain fatty acids or fatty alcohols, such as those described in patent application EP-A-0955039, and especially triisoeicosanyl citrate (MW=1033.76 g/mol), Pentaerythritol tetraisonononanoate (MW=697.05g/mol), glycerol triisostearate (MW=891.51g/mol), glycerol tri(2-decyl) myristate (MW=1143.98g/mol) mol), pentaerythritol tetraisostearate (MW=1202.02g/mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW=1232.04g/mol) or pentaerythritol tetra(2-decyl) myristate Esters (MW=1538.66g/mol),

e) esters and polyesters of diol dimers and mono- or dicarboxylic acids, for example esters of diol dimers and fatty acids and esters of diol dimers and dicarboxylic acid dimers; especially to the esters of dilinoleic acid and dilinoleyl glycol dimer sold under the trade names ^LusplanDD - ^DA5® and DD-DA7® by Nippon Fine Chemical,

- and their mixtures.

The esters of diol dimers and monocarboxylic acids can be obtained from monocarboxylic acids containing 4 to 34 carbon atoms, and especially 10 to 32 carbon atoms, said acids being linear or branched and saturated or not Saturated.

As illustrative examples of triglycerides suitable for use in the present invention, mention may especially be made of triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

According to a particular variant, triglycerides of fatty acids containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms are used more particularly.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one polar non-volatile oil selected from hydrocarbon-based polar oils, preferably from triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 10 carbon atoms. The composition according to the invention more preferably further comprises at least one non-volatile polar oil in the form of caprylic/capric triglycerides, which is commercially available eg under the tradename ^Myritol® 318 from Cognis (BASF).

Non-volatile fluorine oil

The non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a fluoro oil.

The term "fluoro oil" refers to an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

According to the invention, the term "perfluorocompound" means a compound in which all hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorine oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluorinated oils.

As examples of perfluoro oils that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalin and perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorine oil is chosen from perfluoroperhydrophenanthrenes, and in particular the ^Fiflow® product sold by the company Créations Couleurs. In particular the fluorine oils sold under the Fiflow 220 reference by the company F2 Chemicals under the INCI name Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene may be used.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based non-polar oils

The compositions according to the invention preferably comprise non-volatile hydrocarbon-based non-polar oils.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter δ _a at 25° C. is equal to 0 (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

The definition and calculation of solubility parameters in Hansen's three-dimensional solubility space is described in C.M. Hansen's article: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

-δ _D characterizes the London dispersion force derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular collisions;

-δ _p represents the Debye interaction force between permanent dipoles and the Keesom interaction force between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

_-δh characterizes specific interaction forces (e.g. hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and

- δ _a is determined by the equation: δ _a =(δ _p ² +δ _h ² ) ^? .

The parameters δ _p , δ _h , δ _D and δ _a are expressed in (J/cm ³ ) ^.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms.

Since the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil is non-polar, the compound then contains no oxygen, nitrogen atoms.

The non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon-based oil may preferably be selected from linear or branched chain hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:

- liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, such as the product sold under the trade name Primol 352 by the company Exxonmobil Chemical,

- squalane,

- isoeicosane,

- liquid petrolatum,

- naphthalene oil,

- polybutenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW=965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW=1340 g/mol) and Indopol H-1500 (MW=2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Ineos,

- Hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, ^Panalane H-300E (MW = 1340 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco, Viseal 20000 (MW = 6000 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Synteal and sold or manufactured by the company Witco RewopalPIB1000 (MW=1000g/mol),

- decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutylene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14,

- polydecene and hydrogenated polydecene, for example: Puresyn 10 (MW = 723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,

- and their mixtures.

Preferably, if present, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based non-polar oils suitable for the present invention are selected from liquid paraffins or derivatives thereof, such as the product sold under the trade name Primol 352 by the company Exxonmobil Chemical.

According to one embodiment, the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil selected from the triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms. More preferred herein are non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils comprising at least one caprylic/capric triglyceride.

In another embodiment, the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based non-polar oil selected from liquid paraffin and derivatives thereof, more preferably liquid paraffin.

In yet another embodiment, the present invention comprises caprylic/capric triglyceride, liquid paraffin, or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, if present, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are present in a total content of from 3% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

wax

The composition of the invention may further comprise at least one wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" refers to a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), has a reversible solid/liquid state change, and has a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, which can be as high as 120°C.

The waxes that can be used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from solid waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, which may or may not be deformable at room temperature, and mixtures thereof.

Especially hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax or insect wax can be used; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax (ouricury wax), thatch wax (espartograss wax), cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax , Japanese and sumac waxes; montan waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes and ozokerite waxes; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.

Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils containing linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₂ fatty chains.

Among these waxes that may be mentioned are hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, bis(1,1,1-trihydroxy methylpropane) tetrastearate and bis(1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrabehenate sold under the name Hest 2T-4B by the company Heterene.

Waxes that may also be mentioned include fluorine waxes.

Also usable waxes include those obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names Phytowaxricin 16L64 ^® and 22L73 ^® by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in patent application FR-A-2792190.

Useful waxes are C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearates (the alkyl group contains 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names KesterWaxK82P ^® , HydroxypolyesterK82P ^® and KesterWaxK80P ^® by the company KosterKeunen.

If the composition comprises one or more waxes, the amount is from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight.

pasty compound

The composition of the invention may further comprise at least one pasty compound.

The term "paste" is understood within the meaning of the present invention to mean a lipophilic having a reversible solid/liquid state change, exhibiting an anisotropic crystal arrangement in the solid state and comprising a liquid part and a solid part at a temperature of 23 °C fatty compounds.

In other words, the onset melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23°C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23° C., represents 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23° C. preferably represents 15 to 85% by weight, more preferably 40 to 85% by weight.

Within the meaning of the present invention, melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The melting point of the pasty compound can be measured using a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC), such as that sold by TA Instruments under the name "MDSC2920".

The measurement procedure is as follows:

A 5 mg pasty compound sample placed in a crucible was first heated from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C/min, and then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/min. °C, finally through a second ramp from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C/min. During the second temperature rise, the change in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the sample of pasty compound was measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the pasty compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak top of the curve representing the change in the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the substance to change from solid to liquid. The pasty fatty substance is "solid" when its entire mass is in solid crystalline form. The pasty compound is "liquid" when its entire mass is in liquid form.

The enthalpy of fusion of this pasty compound is equal to the differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as that sold by TA Instruments under the name MDSC2920, according to the standard ISO11357-3:1999 with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 °C/min. The area under the curve of the thermogram.

The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy necessary to change the pasty compound from a solid state to a liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.

The enthalpy of fusion expended at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it exhibits at 23°C consisting of a liquid part and a solid part.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C preferably represents 30 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, preferably 50 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound 100% by weight. The temperature at the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C when the liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32°C, is equal to 100%.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C was calculated in the same manner as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds and more particularly from the following compounds, alone or in combination:

- lanolin and its derivatives;

- petrolatum, in particular the product INCI named petroleum jelly (petrolatum) and sold under the name UltimaWhite PETUSP by the company Calumet Specialty,

- polyol ethers selected from ethers of pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycols, ethers of fatty alcohols and sugars and mixtures thereof, ethers of pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycols containing 5 oxyethylene units (5OE) (CTFA name: PEG-5 pentaerythritol ether), polypropylene glycol pentaerythritol ether containing 5 oxypropylene (5OP) units (CTFA name: PEG-5 pentaerythritol ether) and mixtures thereof, and more particularly sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy A mixture of PEG-5 pentaerythritol ether, PPG-5 pentaerythritol ether and soybean oil, which is a 46/46/8 weight ratio in which: 46% PEG-5 pentaerythritol ether, 46% PPG-5 pentaerythritol ether and 8% blend of soybean oil;

- Vinyl polymers, especially:

Olefin homopolymers and copolymers,

· Hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,

linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably containing C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups,

Oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups, such as vinyl ester homopolymers containing C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (especially Arachidyl propionate sold under the trade name Waxenol 801 by the company Chimex) and Alzo under the trade name Waxenol 801;

Oligomers, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups;

- fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C ₂ -C ₁₀₀ , and preferably C ₂ -C ₅₀ diols, among which ethylene oxide is particularly preferred And/or a copolymer of propylene oxide and C ₆ -C ₃₀ long-chain alkylene oxide (alkyleneoxide), more preferably making the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide to alkylene oxide in the copolymer be 5 :95 to 70:30. In this class, mention will especially be made of copolymers having an average molecular weight of 1000 to 10000 in which long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks, for example polyethylene glycol/polydodecane glycol block copolymers, for example AkzoNobel Ether of dodecanediol (22 moles) and polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the trade name Elfacos ST9.

- esters, especially selected from:

Vinyl ester homopolymers containing C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (sold inter alia under the entry Mexomer PP by the company Chimex) and arachidyl propionate sold under the trade name Waxenol 801 by Alzo,

phytosterol esters,

Pentaerythritol esters,

Non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from polycondensation between linear or branched C ₄ -C ₅₀ dicarboxylic or polycarboxylic acids and C ₂ -C ₅₀ diols or polyols,

aliphatic esters of esters resulting from the esterification of aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid esters with aliphatic carboxylic acids comprising 4 to 30 carbons, preferably 8 to 30 carbons,

Esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, if appropriate esterified with acid or alcohol groups on one or more of their free alcohol or acid functions, especially dimerized dilinoleates; Such esters may especially be chosen from esters having the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosterol dimerized linoleyl alcohol dimerized dilinoleate (PlandoolG), phytosterol/isostearyl Cetyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate (PlandoolH or PlanoolS) and mixtures thereof,

Mango oil, such as that sold by the company AarhusKarlshamn under the entry Lipex 203,

Mixtures of hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated vegetable oils, e.g. mixtures of hydrogenated soybean oil, coconut oil, palm oil and rapeseed vegetable oil, such as the mixture sold under the entry Akogel® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name: hydrogenated vegetable oils),

Shea butter, especially the product INCI named Shea Butter ( Butyrospermumparkii Butter), such as that sold under the entry Sheasoft® by the company ^{Aarhuskarlshamn} ,

• and mixtures thereof.

If present, the amount of pasty compound in the composition of the invention is from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 30% by weight.

Galenicform

The compositions of the invention are suitable for use as skin care, make-up or cosmetic treatment products. More particularly, the compositions of the invention are in the form of cosmetic products, such as lip balms, lipsticks, glosses and the like.

additive

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additives customary in the field under investigation, selected from the group such as lipophilic solvents, gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants of glycerides different from the aforementioned fatty acids, poly Silicone surfactants, resins, thickeners, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, bactericides, UV screeners, cosmetic actives such as vitamins, humectants, emollients agents or collagen protectants, colorants and mixtures thereof.

It is a matter of routine for the person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention so that the desired cosmetic properties and their stability properties are not thereby affected.

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared in a conventional manner.

The following examples are given as non-limiting illustrations of the invention. Percentages are by weight.

Example

Formulation example

The following formulation examples were prepared (invexp represents an inventive example; compaexp represents a comparative example):

Notes:

Compaexp1 contains less than 65% glycerol;

Compaexp2 and 3 do not contain component a) as described in the present invention;

Compaexp 4 and 5 do not contain surfactant c) as described in the present invention.

preparation procedure

The formulation examples listed above were prepared according to the following steps:

Mix all the ingredients of Inventive Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1-5 respectively at a temperature of 85°C;

Stir the mixture until homogeneous;

The temperature was cooled to 25°C.

Evaluation example

Inventive Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were evaluated for applicability, such as viscosity of Examples, spreadability of Examples, wetting effect, eg, wetting, moisturizing effect, warming effect.

The "warming effect" brought about by the present invention allows the targeted keratin material, especially the lips, to obtain a heating effect by applying this embodiment. Due to this warming or heating effect, the blood circulation or microcirculation in the lips is greatly improved, thereby improving the moisturizing effect.

In addition, the warming effect brings improved moisturization and moisturizing effect to the skin and lips, especially the lips in winter.

Inventive Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were evaluated by 6 panelists for incorporation and moisturization of the examples on the lips following a standardized gesture of squeezing out approximately 0.2 g of product from a tube And apply evenly on the lips.

Finally, the viscosity of the examples is observed and a comment or score is given by the panelist for the effect given above.

5: Excellent;

4: basically good;

3: acceptable;

2: Slightly poor and unacceptable;

1: Poor and unacceptable.

Based on the evaluation results listed above, the inventors found that the composition according to the present invention overcomes the technical problems of the prior art and provides a stable cosmetic composition with optimized moisturization and applicability.

Claims (16)

1. Anhydrous compositions comprising a) at least one ester consisting of a polyglycerol compound having an average degree of polymerization of 2 to 12, at least one linear saturated fatty acid having 16-28 carbons and at least one aliphatic saturated fatty acid having 16-28 carbons Dibasic acid generation; b) at least one trivalent or higher polyol, wherein said alcohol is present in said composition at 65% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition; and c) at least one surfactant selected from glycerides of fatty acids having a saturated or unsaturated chain containing 14 to 30 carbon atoms, derivatives thereof, or mixtures thereof, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. 2. The composition of claim 1 having a viscosity greater than or equal to 10 Pa·s at 25°C, preferably having a viscosity of 20 Pa·s to 50 Pa·s at 25°C, more preferably having a viscosity of 25 Pa·s at 25°C the viscosity. 3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyglycerol compound preferably has an average degree of polymerization of 5 to 10, more preferably 10. 4. The composition of any one of claims 1-3, wherein said polyglycerol compound is selected from diglycerol, triglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, decaglycerol or mixtures thereof, said polyglycerol being preferably decaglycerol. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1-4, wherein said at least one linear saturated fatty acid has a linear chain of 18-28, preferably 18-24 carbon atoms. 6. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1-5, wherein said at least one linear saturated fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of stearic acid, 10-hydroxystearic acid, 10-ketostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, Acids and mixtures thereof, the fatty acid is more preferably behenic acid. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1-6, wherein said at least one aliphatic saturated dibasic acid has 18-28, preferably 20-24 carbon atoms. 8. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1-7, wherein the at least one aliphatic saturated dibasic acid is selected from the group consisting of eicosanedioic acid, docosanedioic acid, tetracosanedioic acid, Hexadecanedioic acid, octacosanedioic acid and mixtures thereof, the aliphatic saturated dibasic acid is preferably eicosanedioic acid. 9. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the at least one ester is present in an amount of 1% to 15% by weight, preferably 2% to 10% by weight, more preferably 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition Preferably 4% to 8% by weight are present in the composition. 10. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein said at least one polyol is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycerol, neopentyl glycol, sorbitol, erythritol, Pentaerythritol, glucose, galactose, fructose, sucrose, maltose, xylose, xylobiose or mixtures thereof, the alcohol is preferably glycerol. 11. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, wherein the at least one polyol is preferably present in an amount of 70% to 85% by weight, more preferably 70% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition % present in the composition. 12. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, wherein said at least one surfactant is selected from the group consisting of saturated or unsaturated chains containing 16 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. Glycerides of fatty acids, derivatives thereof or mixtures thereof; said surfactant is preferably selected from glycerides of fatty acids optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups with a saturated or unsaturated chain of 16-22 carbon atoms . 13. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1-12, wherein said at least one surfactant is preferably selected from the group consisting of glyceryl myristate, glyceryl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl arachidate, glycerol Glyceryl behenate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl arachidonate, glyceryl erucate, glyceryl stearate citrate, glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof, the surface The active agent is more preferably glyceryl stearate. 14. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 13, wherein the surfactant is present in an amount of 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 3% to 5% by weight, more preferably 3.4% by weight is present in the composition. 15. The composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 14, further comprising at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, preferably selected from the group consisting of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based non- Polar oils or mixtures thereof, said non-volatile hydrocarbon-based polar oils are more preferably selected from triglycerides of fatty acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, said non-volatile Even more preferably the hydrocarbon-based polar oil is caprylic/capric triglyceride, and the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based non-polar oil is preferably selected from mineral oils, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based non-polar oil is more preferably Liquid paraffin is preferred. 16. Method for the care and/or make-up of keratinous materials, comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 to keratinous materials, in particular the lips.