CN105220315B - Method for making woven fabric having dart contracting and forming effect of clothes - Google Patents
Method for making woven fabric having dart contracting and forming effect of clothes Download PDFInfo
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- CN105220315B CN105220315B CN201510663386.9A CN201510663386A CN105220315B CN 105220315 B CN105220315 B CN 105220315B CN 201510663386 A CN201510663386 A CN 201510663386A CN 105220315 B CN105220315 B CN 105220315B
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料制作方法,其包括以下步骤:1)省道形状定位图案转化:将服装制作中需要的各种不同形式和形状的省道转换成相应的提花机织工艺需要的定位平面图案;2)弹性控制综合交织结构:将所述的步骤1)得到的平面图案的不同区域通过采用弹性纱线通过松紧交织结构来控制面料局部收缩而使二维面料在整理后成型为带有服装局部收省成型效果的梭织面料。本发明减少了梭织面料在制作服装时要通过裁剪缝纫省道等方法进行造型带来的传统工艺和人工时间上的浪费,优化梭织面料的外观和标准化高效生产工艺,从而提高面料的附加值和使用价值。
The invention relates to a method for making woven fabrics to achieve the effect of garment dart forming, which includes the following steps: 1) dart shape positioning pattern conversion: converting darts of various forms and shapes required in garment production into corresponding darts The positioning plane pattern required by the Jacquard weaving process; 2) Elasticity control comprehensive interweaving structure: the different regions of the plane pattern obtained in the step 1) are controlled by the elastic yarn through the elastic interweaving structure to control the local shrinkage of the fabric so that the two After finishing, the dimensional fabric is shaped into a woven fabric with the effect of partial garment dart forming. The invention reduces the waste of traditional techniques and labor time brought about by cutting, sewing, darts and other methods when making clothes for woven fabrics, optimizes the appearance of woven fabrics and standardizes high-efficiency production techniques, thereby increasing the additional cost of fabrics. value and use value.
Description
【技术领域】【Technical field】
本发明涉及一种面料制作方法,具体涉及一种达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料制作方法,属于纺织面料技术领域。The invention relates to a fabric making method, in particular to a woven fabric fabricating method that achieves the effect of garment shrinkage and molding, and belongs to the technical field of textile fabrics.
【背景技术】【Background technique】
常规服装的制造是需要在加工过程中对面料进行裁剪缝制,其中常见的方法是通过省道来对局部进行造型,如胸部,腰部的造型等。针对当前一片式的平的面料,特别是无弹性的梭织面料在进行服装制作的过程中,这种省道成型的造型方式需要大量的人工进行制作,制作工艺复杂,耗时耗工。The manufacture of conventional clothing needs to cut and sew the fabric during the processing process. The common method is to shape the part by darts, such as the shape of the chest and waist. For the current one-piece flat fabric, especially the non-elastic woven fabric, in the process of garment production, this dart molding method requires a lot of manual production, and the production process is complicated and time-consuming.
因此,为解决上述技术问题,确有必要提供一种创新的达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料制作方法,以克服现有技术中的所述缺陷。Therefore, in order to solve the above-mentioned technical problems, it is necessary to provide an innovative method for making woven fabrics that achieves the effect of shortening and forming garments, so as to overcome the above-mentioned defects in the prior art.
【发明内容】【Content of invention】
为解决上述技术问题,本发明的目的在于提供一种达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料制作方法,其通过梭织面料的结构以及弹性控制的综合设计来让面料形成服装收省成型的效果,减少梭织面料在制作服装时要通过裁剪缝纫省道等方法进行造型带来的传统工艺和人工时间上的浪费,优化梭织面料的外观和标准化高效生产工艺,从而提高面料的附加值和使用价值。In order to solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the purpose of the present invention is to provide a method for making woven fabrics that achieves the effect of garments being shortened and formed, which allows the fabric to form the effect of garments formed by the structure of the woven fabric and the comprehensive design of elastic control , reduce the waste of traditional craftsmanship and labor time brought about by cutting and sewing darts when making garments, optimize the appearance of woven fabrics and standardize efficient production processes, thereby increasing the added value and use value.
为实现上述目的,本发明采用的技术方案为:一种达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料制作方法,其包括以下步骤:In order to achieve the above object, the technical solution adopted by the present invention is: a method for making woven fabrics that achieves the effect of garment shrinkage and molding, which includes the following steps:
1)省道形状定位图案转化:将服装制作中需要形状的省道收缩的形状外观,以及所述的省道收缩在服装版型上的位置,通过照片采集的方式或者手绘的方式转换成相应的提花机织工艺需要的定位平面图案,且要收掉的省道处和不需收掉省道处的图案用不同颜色表示;1) Transformation of dart shape positioning pattern: convert the shape appearance of the dart shrinkage that needs to be shaped in clothing production, and the position of the dart shrinkage on the garment pattern, into corresponding shapes by means of photo collection or hand-painting. The positioning plane pattern required by the jacquard weaving process, and the pattern of the dart to be removed and the pattern that does not need to be removed is represented by different colors;
2)弹性控制综合交织结构:将所述的步骤1)得到的平面图案的不同区域采用弹性纱线通过松紧交织结构来控制面料局部收缩而使二维面料在整理后成型为带有服装局部收省成型效果的梭织面料。2) Elasticity control comprehensive interweaving structure: Use elastic yarns to control the local shrinkage of the fabric through the elastic interweaving structure in different areas of the planar pattern obtained in the above step 1), so that the two-dimensional fabric is shaped into a garment with local shrinkage after finishing. Shape-saving woven fabric.
本发明的达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料制作方法进一步为:所述步骤1)中的省道形状为菱形、弧形中的一种或两种。The manufacturing method of the woven fabrics of the present invention to achieve the effect of darts and darts is further as follows: the shape of the darts in the step 1) is one or both of rhombus and arc.
本发明的达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料制作方法进一步为:所述步骤1)中,将要收掉的省道处用黑色表示,不需收掉省道处的图案用白色表示。The method for making woven fabrics of the present invention to achieve the effect of garment dart molding is further as follows: in the step 1), the darts to be removed are represented by black, and the patterns of darts not to be removed are represented by white.
本发明的达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料制作方法进一步为:所述的步骤2)中的弹性控制综合交织结构的方法为:将所述的步骤1)得到的平面图案,使用松结构交织的弹性纱线用于需要收省的图案处;使用紧结构交织的弹性纱线用于不需要收省的图案处。The manufacturing method of the woven fabrics of the present invention that achieves the effect of garment shrinkage and molding is further as follows: the method of elastically controlling the comprehensive interweaving structure in the above step 2) is: using the plane pattern obtained in the above step 1) with a loose structure Interwoven elastic yarns are used for patterns where darts are required; interwoven elastic yarns with tight structure are used for patterns that do not require darts.
本发明的达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料制作方法还可为:所述步骤2)中,所述松结构交织的弹性纱线为缎纹结构;所述紧结构交织的弹性纱线为平纹结构或斜纹结构中的一种或两种。The manufacturing method of the woven fabrics of the present invention that achieves the effect of garment shrinkage and forming can also be: in the step 2), the elastic yarns interwoven with loose structures are satin structures; the elastic yarns interwoven with tight structures are: One or both of plain weave or twill weave.
与现有技术相比,本发明具有如下有益效果:本发明的达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料制作方法通过梭织面料的结构以及弹性控制的综合设计来让面料形成服装收省成型效果,减少梭织面料在制作服装时要通过裁剪缝纫省道等方法进行造型带来的传统工艺和人工时间上的浪费,优化梭织面料的外观和标准化高效生产工艺,从而提高面料的附加值和使用价值,而且能改善服装上省道手工缝制质量不稳定,部位牢度差的难题。从社会层面来说,能提高和解决当前此类服装加工“劳工高密集需求”的问题。Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects: the method for making woven fabrics of the present invention to achieve the effect of woven fabrics to achieve the effect of woven fabrics through the comprehensive design of the structure of woven fabrics and elastic control allows fabrics to form the effect of woven fabrics , reduce the waste of traditional craftsmanship and labor time brought about by cutting and sewing darts when making garments, optimize the appearance of woven fabrics and standardize efficient production processes, thereby increasing the added value and It has practical value, and can improve the problems of unstable hand-sewn quality and poor position fastness of darts on clothing. From a social perspective, it can improve and solve the current problem of "high labor-intensive demand" in such garment processing.
【附图说明】【Description of drawings】
图1是本发明的达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料定位平面图案的示意图。Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the positioning plane pattern of the woven fabrics of the present invention to achieve the effect of shortening and forming of garments.
【具体实施方式】【detailed description】
本发明为一种达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料制作方法,其通过梭织面料的结构以及弹性控制的综合设计来让面料形成服装收省成型效果的制作方法。具体包括如下步骤:The invention relates to a method for making woven fabrics to achieve the effect of garment dart molding, which is a manufacturing method for the fabric to form the garment dart molding effect through the comprehensive design of the structure of the woven fabric and elastic control. Specifically include the following steps:
1)省道形状定位图案转化:1) Transformation of dart shape positioning pattern:
将服装制作中需要形状的省道收缩的形状外观,以及所述的省道收缩在服装版型上的位置,通过照片采集的方式或者手绘的方式转换成相应的提花机织工艺需要的定位平面图案,且要收掉的省道处和不需收掉省道处的图案用不同颜色表示;Convert the shape appearance of the dart shrinkage of the required shape in garment production, and the position of the dart shrinkage on the garment pattern, into the positioning plane required by the corresponding jacquard weaving process by means of photo collection or hand-painting pattern, and the pattern of the dart to be closed and the pattern of the dart that does not need to be closed are represented by different colors;
其中,省道形状为菱形、弧形中的一种或两种,或者其他特意形状;如附图1所述,将要收掉的省道处2用黑色表示,不需收掉省道处1的图案用白色表示。Among them, the shape of the dart is one or two of rhombus, arc, or other special shapes; as described in Figure 1, the place 2 of the dart to be closed is shown in black, and the place 1 of the dart does not need to be closed The pattern is shown in white.
2)弹性控制综合交织结构:将所述的步骤1)得到的平面图案的不同区域采用弹性纱线通过松紧交织结构来控制面料局部收缩而使二维面料在整理后成型为带有服装局部收省成型效果的梭织面料;2) Elasticity control comprehensive interweaving structure: Use elastic yarns to control the local shrinkage of the fabric through the elastic interweaving structure in different areas of the planar pattern obtained in the above step 1), so that the two-dimensional fabric is shaped into a garment with local shrinkage after finishing. Woven fabrics with low molding effect;
具体的说,所述弹性控制综合交织结构的方法具体为:将所述的步骤1)得到的平面图案,使用松结构交织的弹性纱线用于需要收省的图案处;使用紧结构交织的弹性纱线用于不需要收省的图案处。Specifically, the method for elastically controlling the comprehensive interweaving structure is as follows: use the planar pattern obtained in step 1) to use the elastic yarn interwoven with loose structure for the pattern that needs to be shortened; use the interwoven elastic yarn with tight structure Elastic yarns are used in patterns where darts are not required.
进一步的,需要收省的图案处如图1中所示的黑色形状区域2使用枚数大交织稀疏的缎纹结构,将所述步骤1)中的定位图案上的不需要收省的图案处如图1中所示的白色区域1使用枚数小交织平凡的平纹结构制作具有达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料,该面料省道处收缩大,而非省道处收缩小,具有控制面料局部收缩,使二维面料在整理后成型为带有服装局部收省三维效果。Further, the black shape area 2 shown in Figure 1 uses a large number of interlaced and sparse satin weaves at the pattern that needs to be dart, and the pattern that does not need to be dart on the positioning pattern in step 1) is as follows: The white area 1 shown in Figure 1 uses a small number of interwoven ordinary plain weave fabrics to produce woven fabrics that can achieve the effect of garment dart molding. The shrinkage of the fabric is large at the darts, and the shrinkage at the non-darts is small, and it has the ability to control the local fabric Shrinkage, so that the two-dimensional fabric can be shaped into a three-dimensional effect with partial shrinkage of the garment after finishing.
本发明的达到服装收省成型效果的梭织面料制作方法可以将服装省道形状转换成用于提花面料上定位图案,通过采用弹性纱线和松紧交织结构来控制面料局部收缩而使二维面料在整理后成型为带有服装局部收省三维效果的工艺。通过梭织面料的结构以及弹性控制的综合设计来让面料形成服装收省成型效果,减少梭织面料在制作服装时要通过裁剪缝纫省道等方法进行造型带来的传统工艺和人工时间上的浪费,优化梭织面料的外观和标准化高效生产工艺,从而提高面料的附加值和使用价值。而且能改善服装上省道手工缝制质量不稳定,部位牢度差的难题。The woven fabric manufacturing method of the present invention that achieves the garment dart forming effect can convert the garment dart shape into a positioning pattern on the jacquard fabric, and control the local shrinkage of the fabric by using elastic yarns and elastic interweaving structures to make the two-dimensional fabric After finishing, it is shaped into a process with a three-dimensional effect of partial clothing. Through the comprehensive design of the structure of woven fabrics and elastic control, the fabrics can form the effect of garment saving and shaping, and reduce the traditional craft and labor time brought by the cutting and sewing darts and other methods of woven fabrics when making garments. Waste, optimize the appearance of woven fabrics and standardize efficient production processes, thereby increasing the added value and use value of fabrics. Moreover, it can improve the problems of unstable quality and poor position fastness of dart hand-sewn on clothing.
以上的具体实施方式仅为本创作的较佳实施例,并不用以限制本创作,凡在本创作的精神及原则之内所做的任何修改、等同替换、改进等,均应包含在本创作的保护范围之内。The specific implementation above is only a preferred embodiment of this creation, and is not intended to limit this creation. Any modifications, equivalent replacements, improvements, etc. made within the spirit and principles of this creation should be included in this creation. within the scope of protection.
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| CN1467653A (en) * | 2002-07-11 | 2004-01-14 | 金小团 | Design and making system of digital printing textile and making method thereof |
| CN1609301A (en) * | 2004-11-20 | 2005-04-27 | 浙江理工大学 | Fabrication and production method for synchronous forming of woven fabric and garment |
| CN101445988B (en) * | 2008-12-29 | 2010-12-29 | 浙江理工大学 | Preparation process of monochrome graded display jacquard fabric |
| CN101634075A (en) * | 2009-08-27 | 2010-01-27 | 台华特种纺织(嘉兴)有限公司 | Seersucker fabric |
| CN102493098A (en) * | 2011-11-28 | 2012-06-13 | 浙江理工大学 | Process for making denim fabric without scouring and other aftertreatments |
| CN203429340U (en) * | 2013-08-14 | 2014-02-12 | 张家港市金陵纺织有限公司 | Seersucker fabric with tubular effect |
| CN103938371B (en) * | 2014-04-11 | 2015-09-23 | 李加林 | The preparation method of clothes solely spent by a kind of imitative plain embroidery picture-weaving in silk |
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