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CN104499137A - Cotton/wood fiber/cashmere wool/spun silk soft and clean color-spun knitted yarn and production method thereof - Google Patents

Cotton/wood fiber/cashmere wool/spun silk soft and clean color-spun knitted yarn and production method thereof Download PDF

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Publication number
CN104499137A
CN104499137A CN201410762332.3A CN201410762332A CN104499137A CN 104499137 A CN104499137 A CN 104499137A CN 201410762332 A CN201410762332 A CN 201410762332A CN 104499137 A CN104499137 A CN 104499137A
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cotton
spinning
spun
cashmere
spun silk
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王前文
李桂付
赵磊
位丽
苗秀爱
王慧
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Yancheng Textile Vocational and Technical College
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Yancheng Textile Vocational and Technical College
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

本发明以染色的棉、木纤、羊绒以及绢丝为原料,利用环锭棉纺设备经改造而成的柔洁纺纱技术开发具有多功能性的柔洁色纱。先对棉、木纤、羊绒、绢丝进行染色,然后采用绢丝与木纤棉包混和的方法,制成木纤/绢丝生条,再与色棉生条和羊绒生条通过条混方式混和制成熟条,将熟条通过粗纱机制成粗纱;最后再结合柔洁纺技术改造后所具有独特纺纱特点纺成细纱。本发明中所述的棉、木纤、羊绒和绢丝分别染色,利用棉纺设备进行纺纱技术的工艺研究,开发棉、木纤、羊绒和绢丝不同比例混色柔洁纺复合色纺纱,解决了四种纤维的染色牢度、耐摩牢度、热迁移牢度问题,提高染色后纤维的可纺性,实现项目产品色纺纱的清洁化生产。The invention uses dyed cotton, wood fiber, cashmere and spun silk as raw materials, and uses the soft and clean spinning technology transformed from ring spinning equipment to develop soft and clean colored yarn with multifunctionality. Dye cotton, wood fiber, cashmere and spun silk first, then use the method of mixing spun silk with wood fiber cotton bales to make wood fiber/spun silk raw sliver, and then mix with colored cotton raw sliver and cashmere raw sliver The method is mixed to make mature sliver, and the cooked sliver is made into roving through a roving machine; finally, it is spun into spun yarn combined with the unique spinning characteristics after the transformation of soft and clean spinning technology. The cotton, wood fiber, cashmere and spun silk described in the present invention are dyed separately, and the cotton spinning equipment is used to carry out the process research of the spinning technology, and the cotton, wood fiber, cashmere and spun silk are mixed in different proportions, and the soft and clean spinning composite color spinning is developed. The problems of dyeing fastness, rubbing fastness and thermal migration fastness of the four kinds of fibers are solved, the spinnability of the dyed fibers is improved, and the clean production of the project product color spinning is realized.

Description

棉/木纤/羊绒/绢丝柔洁色纺针织纱及其生产方法Cotton/wood fiber/cashmere/spun silk soft and clean color spinning knitting yarn and production method thereof

技术领域 technical field

本发明属于纺织领域,特别是棉/木纤/羊绒/绢丝柔洁色纺针织纱及其生产方法。 The invention belongs to the field of textiles, in particular to cotton/wood fiber/cashmere/spun silk soft and clean colored spinning knitting yarn and a production method thereof.

背景技术 Background technique

在全球性绿色革命浪潮的影响下,人们对纺织服装舒适性、健康性、安全性和环保性等越来越高,绿色环保功能性纺织产品将成为我国纺织工业可持续发展战略的重点。柔洁纺纱是在现有的棉纺环锭纺设备上通过技术改造,通过对纺纱三角区纱条进行柔化处理,降低纤维模量,改善纤维“柔软易抚顺”性能,提高可纺性,同时加强机械握持和协同自控能力,实现各种纤维“光洁成纱”。采用棉、木棉、山羊绒、绢丝四种纤维进行混色柔洁纺纱不仅能够提高山羊绒和绢丝的可纺性,实现各种纤维之间的性能互补和成纱的多功能性,而且能利用柔洁纺技术有效解决山羊绒和绢丝等短纤维在纺纱中造成较多的毛羽而造成降低纤维使用效率和提高面料的成本问题,提高纱线光洁度,产品在加工成针织内衣、羊毛衫、高档呢、机织休闲外衣、袜类、床上用品等产品后形态稳定、悬垂、光泽好,手感柔、轻、滑、糯。该系列产品柔软、亲肤、吸水透气、华贵、色泽亮丽、具有自清洁和抗菌保健性能,可制作高档服装及家纺用品,具用广阔的市场前景。 Under the influence of the wave of global green revolution, people are more and more concerned about the comfort, health, safety and environmental protection of textile and clothing. Green and environmental protection functional textile products will become the focus of the sustainable development strategy of my country's textile industry. Soft spinning is based on the technical transformation of the existing cotton spinning ring spinning equipment, by softening the sliver in the spinning triangle area, reducing the fiber modulus, improving the "soft and smooth" performance of the fiber, and improving the spinnability , and at the same time strengthen the mechanical grip and collaborative self-control capabilities to achieve "smooth and clean yarn" of various fibers. Using four fibers of cotton, kapok, cashmere and spun silk for mixed-color soft spinning can not only improve the spinnability of cashmere and spun silk, but also realize the performance complementarity between various fibers and the multifunctionality of yarn formation. It can use soft and clean spinning technology to effectively solve the problem of reducing fiber use efficiency and increasing the cost of fabrics caused by the short fibers such as cashmere and spun silk that cause more hairiness in spinning, and improve the smoothness of the yarn. The products are processed into knitted underwear, Wool sweaters, high-end woolen clothes, woven casual outerwear, hosiery, bedding and other products have stable shape, good drape, good luster, and soft, light, slippery and waxy handle. This series of products is soft, skin-friendly, water-absorbing and breathable, luxurious, bright in color, self-cleaning and antibacterial, and can be used to make high-end clothing and home textile products, with broad market prospects.

发明内容 Contents of the invention

本发明的目的是降低纤维刚度的“柔洁纺纱原理”对传统环锭细纱机进行创新改造,并进行了纺纱工艺技术的创新及应用,大大降低了纱线毛羽,提高纱线品质。以解决山羊绒和绢丝等短纤维在纺纱中造成较多的毛羽而造成降低纤维使用效率和提高面料的成本问题,提高纱线光洁度,提高产品抗起毛起球性、耐磨性。产品在加工成针织内衣、羊毛衫、高档呢、机织休闲外衣、袜类、床上用品等产品后形态稳定、悬垂、光泽好,手感柔、轻、滑、糯。 The purpose of the present invention is to innovate and transform the traditional ring spinning frame based on the "soft spinning principle" of reducing fiber stiffness, and to innovate and apply the spinning technology, greatly reducing yarn hairiness and improving yarn quality. To solve the problem of reducing fiber use efficiency and increasing the cost of fabrics caused by more hairiness caused by short fibers such as cashmere and spun silk during spinning, improve the smoothness of yarns, and improve the anti-pilling and abrasion resistance of products. After the products are processed into knitted underwear, woolen sweaters, high-grade woolen clothes, woven casual outerwear, hosiery, bedding and other products, the shape is stable, the drape is good, the gloss is good, and the hand feeling is soft, light, slippery and waxy.

为解决上述技术问题,实现上述目的,本发明采用如下技术方案: In order to solve the above-mentioned technical problems and achieve the above-mentioned purpose, the present invention adopts the following technical solutions:

本发明中原料的选用: The selection of raw material among the present invention:

本发明中所述棉/木纤/羊绒/绢丝柔洁色纺针织纱,选用的原料棉性能指标:原棉成熟度系数1.6-1.8,马克隆值4.1-4.82,原棉纤维细度1.886-1.724dtex,长度28-30mm,含短绒率小于15%,原棉要求无三丝。选用的原料木纤是采用天然无污染的落叶树木为原料,经粉碎和高温蒸煮成木浆后再提取纤维制成的具备多孔结构,具有良好的柔软性、吸湿、透气、自清自洁、抗菌、抑菌可纺性强、绿色环保、天然健康等一系列优异性能。木纤维性能指标: 平均长度37-39mm,细度1.1-1.4dtex,断裂强度4.0-5.0cN/dtex,断裂伸长率14-15.5%,回潮率13%。选用的原料羊绒其手感柔软、光泽柔和、质地轻盈、富有弹性。山羊绒原料为定制浅蓝色外加工羊绒生条,干定量为14-16g/5 m,羊毛含量3.0-4.0%。山羊绒性能指标:纤维平均长度37-39mm,最长纤维52mm,长度不匀率48-49%,平均细度15-16μm,断裂强度3.5-4.5 cN/dtex,断裂伸长率38-42%,含绒率96-98%,含油率1.42-1.50%,回潮率15.5%。选用的原料绢丝具有较好的拉伸性能,纤维细而柔软、平滑、富有弹性、光泽好。绢丝采用外购切丝,切丝长度为(35±5)mm,实测纤维平均长度36-37mm,最长纤维45mm,最短纤维12mm,细度1.5-1.6dtex,含杂率15-17%,含油率0.6-0.7%,回潮率10.2%。 The cotton/wood fiber/cashmere/spun silk soft and clean color-spun knitting yarn described in the present invention, the selected raw cotton performance index: raw cotton maturity coefficient 1.6-1.8, micronaire value 4.1-4.82, raw cotton fiber fineness 1.886-1.724 dtex, length 28-30mm, short fiber content less than 15%, raw cotton requires no three-filament. The selected raw material wood fiber is made of natural and pollution-free deciduous trees. It is made of wood pulp after crushing and high-temperature cooking, and then the fiber is extracted. It has a porous structure and has good softness, moisture absorption, breathability, self-cleaning and self-cleaning. Antibacterial, antibacterial, strong spinnability, green environmental protection, natural health and a series of excellent properties. Wood fiber performance indicators: average length 37-39mm, fineness 1.1-1.4dtex, breaking strength 4.0-5.0cN/dtex, breaking elongation 14-15.5%, moisture regain 13%. The selected raw material cashmere has soft hand feeling, soft luster, light texture and high elasticity. The cashmere raw material is customized light blue externally processed cashmere raw slivers, with a dry weight of 14-16g/5 m and a wool content of 3.0-4.0%. Cashmere performance indicators: average fiber length 37-39mm, longest fiber 52mm, length unevenness 48-49%, average fineness 15-16μm, breaking strength 3.5-4.5 cN/dtex, breaking elongation 38-42% , the cashmere content rate is 96-98%, the oil content rate is 1.42-1.50%, and the moisture regain rate is 15.5%. The selected raw silk silk has good tensile properties, and the fibers are thin, soft, smooth, elastic and glossy. The spun silk is shredded by external purchase, the shredded length is (35±5)mm, the measured average fiber length is 36-37mm, the longest fiber is 45mm, the shortest fiber is 12mm, the fineness is 1.5-1.6dtex, and the impurity rate is 15-17% , oil content 0.6-0.7%, moisture regain 10.2%.

本发明中选用的混合方式: The mixing method selected in the present invention:

本发明中采用绢丝与木纤棉包混和的方法,制成木纤/绢丝生条,再与色棉生条和羊绒生条通过条混方式混和,再结合柔洁纺技术改造后具有独特纺纱特点以及优化工艺设计。 In the present invention, the method of mixing spun silk and wood fiber cotton bales is used to make wood fiber/spun silk raw slivers, which are then mixed with colored cotton raw slivers and cashmere raw slivers through sliver mixing, and combined with the transformation of soft and clean spinning technology Unique spinning characteristics and optimized process design.

本发明中选用的纺纱工艺流程: The spinning process flow selected in the present invention:

(1)染色棉纤维: FA002自动抓棉机→FA022多仓混棉机→FA106豪猪式开棉机→FA046振动棉箱给棉机→FA141A单打手成卷机→FA201B梳棉机; (1) Dyed cotton fiber: FA002 automatic plucking machine → FA022 multi-composite blending machine → FA106 porcupine opener → FA046 vibrating cotton box feeder → FA141A single hand lapping machine → FA201B carding machine;

(2)染色木纤维、绢丝→FA002自动抓棉机→ZFA026自动混棉机→FA106A梳针开棉机→FA046A振动棉箱给棉机→FA141A单打手成卷机→FA201B梳棉机; (2) Dyed wood fiber and spun silk → FA002 automatic plucking machine → ZFA026 automatic cotton blender → FA106A card needle opener → FA046A vibrating cotton box feeder → FA141A single beater lapping machine → FA201B carding machine;

(3)色棉生条、木纤/绢丝有色生条、羊绒染色条→FA306并条机(三道)→TJFA458A粗纱机→DTM129细纱机(柔洁纺技术改造)→NO.21C自动络筒机。 (3) Colored cotton raw sliver, wood fiber/silk colored raw sliver, cashmere dyed sliver → FA306 draw frame (three passes) → TJFA458A roving frame → DTM129 spinning frame (soft and clean spinning technology transformation) → NO.21C automatic winding barrel machine.

本发明中纺纱各工序的生产工艺: The production technology of each operation of spinning among the present invention:

(1)纤维的染色及预处理 (1) Dyeing and pretreatment of fibers

经外加工染色后的棉和纤维,尽量减少纤维色差,染色后的纤维强力有所下降,纤维呈板结状,为提高其可纺性和均匀混合性,均采用喂棉机预开松色纤维再经和毛机混和后均匀给湿且添加投料量的0.3%油剂,闷仓24小时,使色棉纤维回潮率达8.5%-9.0%。木纤维吸湿放湿较快,生产中易产生静电,需加入0.6%的抗静电剂,回潮率达到11.5-12.5%,确保在整个纺纱过程中处于放湿状态。 Cotton and fiber dyed by external processing, to minimize the color difference of the fiber, the strength of the dyed fiber is reduced, and the fiber is hardened. In order to improve its spinnability and uniform mixing, the cotton feeding machine is used to pre-open the colored fiber After mixing with the wool machine, it is evenly wetted, and 0.3% oil agent is added, and it is stuffed for 24 hours, so that the moisture regain of the colored cotton fiber reaches 8.5%-9.0%. Wood fiber absorbs moisture quickly and dehumidifies quickly, and it is easy to generate static electricity during production. It is necessary to add 0.6% antistatic agent, and the moisture regain will reach 11.5-12.5%, so as to ensure that it is in a state of dehumidification during the entire spinning process.

为了降低绢丝在纺纱过程易产生静电而出现缠绕机件现象,采用抗静电剂0.6%、水溶性硅油0.2%、平平加0.5%,水10%的配方进行均匀喷洒,并保湿堆放24 h,回潮率控制在12%-13%,以提高其可纺性。染色羊绒纤维回潮率达到15-16%。 In order to reduce the tendency of spun silk to generate static electricity during the spinning process and the phenomenon of winding machine parts, the formula of 0.6% antistatic agent, 0.2% water-soluble silicone oil, 0.5% flat plus, and 10% water is used to spray evenly and keep it moist for 24 hours. , The moisture regain is controlled at 12%-13% to improve its spinnability. The moisture regain of dyed cashmere fiber reaches 15-16%.

    此处有色棉纤维的清梳工序纺纱工艺略去,以下仅对木纤和绢丝的清梳工序以及后道纺纱工艺进行介绍。 Here, the carding process and spinning process of colored cotton fibers are omitted, and only the carding process of wood fiber and spun silk and the subsequent spinning process will be introduced below.

(2)开清棉工艺措施 (2) Process measures for opening and cleaning cotton

 绢丝细而软,并丝和毛粒多,且不易去掉,开清棉采取“勤抓少抓、多梳少打、均匀混合、早落、低速、防粘”的工艺原则,适当放大尘棒间的隔距为7-9mm。打手速度要适当降低,其中ZFA026自动混棉机打手速度按最低设计,FA106A梳针开棉机打手速度460-540r/min,FA046A振动棉箱给棉机角钉帘线速度30-50m/min,均棉罗拉与角钉帘隔距9-11mm,FA141A单打手成卷机梳针打手转速600-800rpm,棉卷罗拉转速11-13r/min;天平罗拉与梳针打手隔距11-13mm,由于经预开松并混和后的染色木纤和绢丝较为蓬松,棉卷定量350-400g/m,棉卷长度25-30m。环境相对湿度控制在65%~70%。 The spun silk is thin and soft, with many silk and hair particles, and it is not easy to remove. The process principle of "grasping frequently and less grasping, combing more and beating less, mixing evenly, falling early, low speed, and anti-sticking" is adopted to properly enlarge the dust. The distance between the rods is 7-9mm. Beater speed should be appropriately reduced, among which ZFA026 automatic cotton blending machine beater speed is designed according to the minimum, FA106A card needle opener beater speed is 460-540r/min, FA046A vibrating cotton box feeder corner nail cord speed is 30-50m/min, The distance between the cotton equalizing roller and the corner nail curtain is 9-11mm, the FA141A single lapping machine card beater speed is 600-800rpm, the lap roller speed is 11-13r/min; the balance roller and the comb needle beater distance is 11-13mm, The pre-opened and mixed dyed wood fiber and spun silk are relatively fluffy, the basis weight of the cotton lap is 350-400g/m, and the length of the cotton lap is 25-30m. The relative humidity of the environment is controlled at 65%~70%.

(3)梳棉工艺措施 (3) Carding process measures

 绢丝纤维细软、光滑且长,强度低,在梳理过程中易断形成短绒,和染色木纤维混纺,纤维间抱合力差及其产生静电而导致棉网出现飘头、破洞、烂边等成网不良现象,梳棉采取“四锋一准、低速、大隔距、大速比”的工艺原则,加大棉网张力并加装导条皮圈装置,在避免纤维损伤的基础上提高其梳理效果,减少搓揉返花,实现纤维快速良好地转移,以提高棉网及生条质量。锡林针布AC2520×01850,道夫针布AD4030×01890,盖板针布MCC36。调节锡林-盖板隔距为0.35mm、0.33mm、0.30mm、0.30mm、0.33mm,给棉板-刺辊隔距放大为0.2-0.4mm,锡林-道夫隔距为0.1-0.3mm,锡林速度280-320rpm,刺辊速度600-650rpm,生条定量控制在18-22g/5m,生条出条速度70-85m/min。环境相对湿度控制在65%-70%。生条质量控制范围:棉结30-40粒/g。 Spun silk fiber is soft, smooth and long, with low strength, easy to break and form short pile during carding process, and blended with dyed wood fiber, the poor cohesion between fibers and the generation of static electricity will cause floating ends, holes, and rotten edges in the cotton web In case of poor web formation, the carding adopts the process principle of "four fronts and one accuracy, low speed, large gauge, and high speed ratio", increases the tension of the cotton web and installs a guide apron device, on the basis of avoiding fiber damage Improve the carding effect, reduce rubbing back, realize fast and good fiber transfer, and improve the quality of cotton web and raw sliver. Cylinder card clothing AC2520×01850, doffer card clothing AD4030×01890, cover card clothing MCC36. Adjust the cylinder-cover gauge to 0.35mm, 0.33mm, 0.30mm, 0.30mm, 0.33mm, enlarge the feed plate-licker-in roller gauge to 0.2-0.4mm, and cylinder-doffer gauge to 0.1-0.3mm , cylinder speed 280-320rpm, licker-in speed 600-650rpm, raw sliver weight control at 18-22g/5m, raw sliver delivery speed 70-85m/min. The relative humidity of the environment is controlled at 65%-70%. Sliver quality control range: neps 30-40 grains/g.

(4)并条工艺措施 (4) Drawing process measures

为了提高色纺纱的混色均匀,保证各种组份的均匀混合和混比准确,并条工序采用三道。因混色纱组份中羊绒卷曲度大、纤维弹性好、抱合力好,并条工艺以提高纤维伸直平行度,提高熟条条干均匀度为主,采取“轻定量、慢速度、大隔距、重加压”的工艺原则。适当降低车速,采用经复合涂料处理的软弹性胶辊并加大压力,发生防止缠绕罗拉胶辊。并条头、二道采用顺牵伸,有利于纤维的伸直,通道要光洁,喇叭口直径适中掌握,适当加大圈条张力,既避免堵塞断条,又可以适当提高条子的抱合力。由于羊绒条子比较蓬松,采用6-8根条子并合,其中色棉生条2-3根,其定量为19-23g/5m,木纤/绢丝有色生条3-4根,羊绒染色条1根,环境相对湿度控制在65-70%。(5)粗纱工艺措施粗纱工序以进一步提高纤维伸直平行分离度、改善条干、控制伸长率为主。粗纱工艺采取“重加压、低速度、轻定量、小张力、大捻度”的工艺原则,粗纱卷装不宜过大,否则容易冒纱、脱圈,影响细纱的正常纺纱,生产中结合较大轴向卷绕密度,可减少细纱退绕时的意外张力和断头。粗纱捻系数偏大控制,采用较小的粗纱张力,有利于纱条中纤维抱合,防止粗纱意外伸长而产生细节,有利于提高细纱牵伸质量。发挥主牵伸区的主导作用,在能牵伸开的情况下采用小隔距,有利于控制浮游纤维。后区隔距适当放大,可保证纤维在后区充分伸直,并减少纤维损伤。采用了抗静电剂处理过的贝克胶辊。主要工艺参数配置为: 粗纱定量为3.0-4.0g/10m,罗拉隔距为(10-15)×(20-30)×(30-40)mm,后区牵伸为1.1-1.5倍,捻系数为80-100,锭速为600-800rpm,钳口原始隔距为4.0-5.0mm。 In order to improve the color mixing uniformity of color spinning and ensure the uniform mixing and accurate mixing ratio of various components, the drawing process adopts three steps. Because the cashmere in the melange yarn has a large degree of curl, good fiber elasticity, and good cohesion, the drawing process mainly focuses on improving the parallelism of the fibers and improving the evenness of the cooked sliver. The "light weight, slow speed, and large separation distance, heavy pressure" process principle. Properly reduce the speed of the vehicle, use soft elastic rubber rollers treated with composite coatings and increase the pressure to prevent winding roller rubber rollers. The drawing head and the second pass adopt parallel drafting, which is beneficial to the straightening of the fiber. The channel should be smooth and clean. Because the cashmere slivers are relatively fluffy, 6-8 slivers are combined, including 2-3 colored cotton raw slivers, the weight of which is 19-23g/5m, 3-4 colored raw slivers of wood fiber/spun silk, and cashmere dyed slivers 1 root, and the relative humidity of the environment is controlled at 65-70%. (5) Roving process measures The roving process is mainly to further improve the degree of parallel separation of fiber straightening, improve evenness and control elongation. The roving process adopts the process principle of "heavy pressure, low speed, light weight, small tension, and large twist". Large axial winding density reduces accidental tension and end breaks during unwinding of the spun yarn. The twist coefficient of the roving is too large to control, and the smaller roving tension is used, which is conducive to the cohesion of fibers in the sliver, preventing the roving from being accidentally elongated and causing fine details, and is conducive to improving the drafting quality of the spun yarn. Give full play to the leading role of the main drafting zone, and use a small gauge when the draft can be opened, which is beneficial to control the floating fibers. Proper enlargement of the distance in the rear area can ensure that the fibers are fully straightened in the rear area and reduce fiber damage. Baker rubber rollers treated with antistatic agents are used. The main process parameters are configured as follows: roving basis weight is 3.0-4.0g/10m, roller gauge is (10-15)×(20-30)×(30-40)mm, rear draft is 1.1-1.5 times, twist The coefficient is 80-100, the spindle speed is 600-800rpm, and the original gap between the jaws is 4.0-5.0mm.

(6)柔洁纺定位纺纱技术及其柔洁纺色纱工艺优化 (6) Soft and Clean Spinning Positioning Spinning Technology and Process Optimization of Soft and Clean Spinning Colored Yarn

针织纱要求条干均匀、毛羽少,利用环锭棉纺设备经改造而成的柔洁纺纱技术,即是在普通环锭纺纱三角区施加一个纤维柔顺处理面,在成纱三角区内形成很多纤维握持点,这些纤维握持点对外露纤维头端具有良好的握持作用,并与加捻转动力、须条牵引力协同作用,将外露纤维有效地转移进入到纱体内,降低了纱线表面毛羽,改善了光洁度。通过热湿作用,对纤维进行柔顺处理,极大地降低纤维的抗弯应力,使外露的长纤维通过加捻、扭转和移入纱体而消除或大幅度地减少成纱毛羽。在柔洁纺细纱工序采取“低车速、小后区牵伸、大捻系数、大粗纱回潮率”的工艺原则,成纱捻度偏大掌握,以保证须条间的紧密度,增加纤维间的抱合力,提高成纱强力。将粗纱经调湿处理,使其回潮率分别调至试验条件再纺纱,以达到柔化抚顺纤维,大幅减少毛羽的目的。在专用配件的选用上,钳口采用3.0mm带压力棒隔距块,在前牵伸区形成曲线牵伸从而增加附加摩擦力界,缩小浮游区长度,以加强对浮游纤维运动的控制,提高成纱条干均匀度。前胶辊使用WRC970软弹性胶辊,PG13854镀络钢领,瑞士布雷克C1 EL udr型3/0号钢丝圈,以控制气圈,降低毛羽,保证成纱条干优良。罗拉隔距为(15-20)×(15-25)mm。柔洁纺中纱线捻系数、粗纱回潮率、陶瓷工作面与纱条接触紧度和后区牵伸倍数等工艺参数均对成纱的产品质量及纺纱效果有不同程度的影响。主要工艺参数配置为:罗拉隔距为(15-20)×(15-25)mm,成纱干定量1.5-1.8g/100mm,罗拉隔距(15-20)(30-35)mm(V型牵伸),后区牵伸1.01-1.04,前罗拉速度150-180r/min。 Knitting yarn requires uniform dryness and less hairiness. The soft and clean spinning technology transformed from ring-spinning cotton spinning equipment is to apply a fiber smoothing treatment surface in the triangle area of ordinary ring-spinning spinning, and form a soft yarn in the yarn-forming triangle area. Many fiber holding points, these fiber holding points have a good holding effect on the exposed fiber head end, and cooperate with the twisting rotation force and the sliver traction force to effectively transfer the exposed fiber into the yarn body, reducing the yarn Thread surface hairiness improves finish. Through the action of heat and humidity, the fibers are softened, the bending stress of the fibers is greatly reduced, and the exposed long fibers are twisted, twisted and moved into the yarn body to eliminate or greatly reduce yarn hairiness. In the spinning process of soft and clean spinning, the technological principle of "low speed, small back draft, large twist coefficient, and large roving moisture regain" is adopted, and the twist of the yarn is too large to ensure the tightness between the strands and increase the distance between fibers. Cohesion, improve yarn strength. The roving is subjected to humidity-conditioning treatment to adjust its moisture regain to the test conditions before spinning, so as to achieve the purpose of softening Fushun fiber and greatly reducing hairiness. In the selection of special accessories, the jaw adopts a 3.0mm spacer with a pressure bar, which forms a curved draft in the front draft area to increase the additional friction force and reduce the length of the floating area to strengthen the control of the floating fiber movement and improve Yarn evenness. The front rubber roller uses WRC970 soft elastic rubber roller, PG13854 plated steel ring, Swiss Blake C1 EL udr type 3/0 steel traveler, to control the air ring, reduce hairiness, and ensure excellent yarn evenness. The roller gauge is (15-20)×(15-25)mm. Process parameters such as yarn twist coefficient, roving moisture regain, contact tightness between ceramic working surface and sliver, and draft ratio in the rear area in soft and clean spinning all have different degrees of influence on the product quality of the finished yarn and the spinning effect. The configuration of the main process parameters is: the roller gauge is (15-20)×(15-25)mm, the dry weight of the yarn is 1.5-1.8g/100mm, the roller gauge is (15-20) (30-35)mm (V type drafting), drafting in the rear area is 1.01-1.04, and the speed of the front roller is 150-180r/min.

(7)络筒工艺措施 (7) Winding process measures

为了保持柔洁纺色纱毛羽少的优越性能,在络筒采用“低速度、小张力”的工艺措施,保持络纱通道光洁,断纱装置灵活,气压设置偏小掌握,防止断头后筒子与槽筒摩擦造成纱线磨烂,以减少毛羽增长,降低棉结产生。合理配置电清工艺以减少纱疵,同时注意空捻结头质量,保证成纱质量。具体工艺参数为:棉结+(380-400)%,短粗+(125-145)%(1.2-1.4)cm,长粗+(110-130)%(20-25)cm,细节-(30-50)%(30-35)cm,络纱速度700-950m/min,纺纱张力9-11cN。 In order to maintain the superior performance of soft and clean dyed yarn with less hairiness, the "low speed, small tension" process measures are adopted in the winding to keep the winding channel clean, the yarn breaking device is flexible, and the air pressure setting is too small to control the bobbin after the end is broken. The friction with the grooved drum causes the yarn to be worn out, so as to reduce the growth of hairiness and reduce the generation of neps. Reasonably configure the electric cleaning process to reduce yarn defects, and at the same time pay attention to the quality of empty twist knots to ensure the quality of yarn. The specific process parameters are: neps + (380-400)%, short thick + (125-145)% (1.2-1.4) cm, long thick + (110-130)% (20-25) cm, details - ( 30-50)% (30-35) cm, winding speed 700-950m/min, spinning tension 9-11cN.

本发明的优点和有益效果在于: Advantage and beneficial effect of the present invention are:

(1)解决山羊绒和绢丝等短纤维在纺纱中造成较多的毛羽而造成降低纤维使用效率和提高面料的成本问题,提高纱线光洁度,提高产品抗起毛起球性、耐磨性。 (1) Solve the problem of reducing fiber use efficiency and increasing the cost of fabrics caused by more hairiness caused by short fibers such as cashmere and spun silk in spinning, improve yarn smoothness, and improve product anti-pilling and abrasion resistance .

(2)柔洁色纺针织纱的纺制过程中经过优化纺纱工艺,加强质量管理,保证了生产顺利,避免了色差、混色不匀、色点、棉结、条干不匀等质量问题的产生。 (2) During the spinning process of soft and clean colored spun knitting yarn, the spinning process is optimized and quality management is strengthened to ensure smooth production and avoid quality problems such as color difference, uneven color mixing, color spots, neps, and unevenness. generation.

(3)本发明采用的原料都属于绿色环保纤维,且制成的织物不需要再经印染等后整理,产品完全符合目前人们崇尚绿色、环保的健康消费观念。 (3) The raw materials used in the present invention are all green and environmentally friendly fibers, and the finished fabric does not need to be finished by printing and dyeing. The product fully conforms to the current concept of healthy consumption that people advocate green and environmental protection.

具体实施方式 Detailed ways

下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步详述。以下实施例仅用于更加清楚地说明本发明的技术方案,而不能以此来限制本发明的保护范围。 Below in conjunction with embodiment the present invention is described in further detail. The following examples are only used to illustrate the technical solution of the present invention more clearly, but not to limit the protection scope of the present invention.

本发明实施例所述的棉/木纤/羊绒/绢丝40/30/15/15 18tex柔洁色纺针织纱的生产工艺: The production process of cotton/wood fiber/cashmere/spun silk 40/30/15/15 18tex soft and clean color spinning knitting yarn described in the embodiment of the present invention:

本发明中原料的选用: The selection of raw material among the present invention:

本发明中所述原料品种,选用的棉:技术品级2.8级,马克隆值4.1,纤维细度1.76dtex,主体长度29.6mm,短绒率9.2%。选用的木纤:平均长度38mm,细度1.1dtex,断裂强度4.01cN/dtex,断裂伸长率14.7%,回潮率13%。选用的羊绒:干定量为15.2g/5 m,羊毛含量3.7%。纤维平均长度37.8 mm,最长纤维52mm,长度不匀率48.5%,平均细度15.4μm,断裂强度3.75 cN/dtex,断裂伸长率40%,含绒率96.3%,含油率1.48%,回潮率15.5%。选用的绢丝:采用外购切丝,切丝长度为(35±5)mm,实测纤维平均长度36.8mm,最长纤维45mm,最短纤维12mm,细度1.55dtex,含杂率15.5%,含油率0.65%,回潮率10.2%。 Raw material kind described in the present invention, the cotton that selects for use: technical grade 2.8 grades, micronaire value 4.1, fiber fineness 1.76dtex, main body length 29.6mm, short staple rate 9.2%. Selected wood fiber: average length 38mm, fineness 1.1dtex, breaking strength 4.01cN/dtex, breaking elongation 14.7%, moisture regain 13%. Selected cashmere: dry basis weight 15.2g/5 m, wool content 3.7%. The average fiber length is 37.8mm, the longest fiber is 52mm, the length unevenness is 48.5%, the average fineness is 15.4μm, the breaking strength is 3.75 cN/dtex, the breaking elongation is 40%, the cashmere content is 96.3%, the oil content is 1.48%, and the moisture regain rate of 15.5%. Selected spun silk: purchased shredded silk, the shredded length is (35±5)mm, the measured average fiber length is 36.8mm, the longest fiber is 45mm, the shortest fiber is 12mm, the fineness is 1.55dtex, the impurity rate is 15.5%, and the oil content The rate is 0.65%, and the moisture regain rate is 10.2%.

本发明中选用的混和方式: The mixing mode selected in the present invention:

本发明中因采用的绢丝表面的丝胶及杂质较多,切断长度差异大,再加之加入油水抗静电剂后,快速吸湿后易缠绕罗拉和胶辊,可纺性差,导致纺制纯绢丝生条很困难。为提高其可纺性,采用绢丝与木纤棉包混和的方法,制成木纤/绢丝生条,再与色棉生条和羊绒生条通过条混方式混和,再结合环锭纺柔洁纺技术改造后具有独特纺纱特点以及优化工艺设计。 In the present invention, because there are many sericin and impurities on the surface of the spun silk, the difference in cutting length is large. In addition, after the oil-water antistatic agent is added, it is easy to entangle the rollers and rubber rollers after rapid moisture absorption, and the spinnability is poor, resulting in spinning pure silk. Silk strips are difficult. In order to improve its spinnability, the method of mixing spun silk with wood fiber cotton bales is used to make wood fiber/spun silk raw sliver, and then mixed with colored cotton raw sliver and cashmere raw sliver through sliver mixing, and then combined with ring spinning After the transformation of soft and clean spinning technology, it has unique spinning characteristics and optimized process design.

本发明中选用的纺纱工艺流程: The spinning process flow selected in the present invention:

染色棉纤维: FA002自动抓棉机→FA022多仓混棉机→FA106豪猪式开棉机→FA046振动棉箱给棉机→FA141A单打手成卷机→FA201B梳棉机; Dyeing cotton fiber: FA002 automatic plucking machine → FA022 multi-bin cotton blending machine → FA106 porcupine opener → FA046 vibrating cotton box feeder → FA141A single hand lapping machine → FA201B carding machine;

染色木纤维+绢丝→FA002自动抓棉机→ZFA026自动混棉机→FA106A梳针开棉机→FA046A振动棉箱给棉机→FA141A单打手成卷机→FA201B梳棉机; Dyeing wood fiber + spun silk → FA002 automatic plucking machine → ZFA026 automatic cotton blending machine → FA106A card needle opener → FA046A vibrating cotton box feeder → FA141A single hand lapping machine → FA201B carding machine;

 色棉生条+木纤/绢丝有色生条+羊绒染色条→FA306并条机(三道)→TJFA458A粗纱机→DTM129细纱机(柔洁纺技术改造)→NO.21C自动络筒机。 Colored cotton raw sliver + wood fiber/silk colored raw sliver + cashmere dyed sliver → FA306 draw frame (three passes) → TJFA458A roving frame → DTM129 spinning frame (soft and clean spinning technology transformation) → NO.21C automatic winder.

本发明中纺纱各工序的生产工艺:(1)纤维的染色及预处理 The production process of each process of spinning in the present invention: (1) dyeing and pretreatment of fibers

经外加工染色后的棉和纤维,尽量减少纤维色差,染色后的纤维强力有所下降,纤维呈板结状,为提高其可纺性和均匀混合性,均采用喂棉机预开松色纤维再经和毛机混和后均匀给湿且添加投料量的0.3%油剂,闷仓24小时,使色棉纤维回潮率达8.7%。木纤维吸湿放湿较快,生产中易产生静电,需加入0.6%的抗静电剂,回潮率控制在12%,确保在整个纺纱过程中处于放湿状态。 Cotton and fiber dyed by external processing, to minimize the color difference of the fiber, the strength of the dyed fiber is reduced, and the fiber is hardened. In order to improve its spinnability and uniform mixing, the cotton feeding machine is used to pre-open the colored fiber After mixing with the wool machine, it is evenly wetted and 0.3% oil agent is added, and it is stuffed for 24 hours, so that the moisture regain of the colored cotton fiber reaches 8.7%. Wood fiber absorbs and dehumidifies quickly, and static electricity is easily generated during production. It is necessary to add 0.6% antistatic agent, and the moisture regain is controlled at 12%, so as to ensure that it is in a state of dehumidification during the entire spinning process.

为了降低绢丝在纺纱过程易产生静电而出现缠绕机件现象,采用抗静电剂0.6%、水溶性硅油0.2%、平平加0.5%,水10%的配方进行均匀喷洒,并保湿堆放24 h,使回潮率为12.3%,提高其可纺性。染色羊绒纤维回潮率达到15.2%。 In order to reduce the tendency of spun silk to generate static electricity during the spinning process and the phenomenon of winding machine parts, the formula of 0.6% antistatic agent, 0.2% water-soluble silicone oil, 0.5% flat plus, and 10% water is used to spray evenly and keep it moist for 24 hours. , so that the moisture regain is 12.3%, which improves its spinnability. The moisture regain of dyed cashmere fiber reaches 15.2%.

(2)开清棉工艺措施 (2) Process measures for opening and cleaning cotton

绢丝细而软,并丝和毛粒多,且不易去掉,开清棉采取“勤抓少抓、多梳少打、均匀混合、早落、低速、防粘”的工艺原则,适当放大尘棒间的隔距为8mm。打手速度要适当降低,其中ZFA026自动混棉机打手速度按最低设计,FA106A梳针开棉机打手速度480r/min,FA046A振动棉箱给棉机角钉帘线速度40m/min,均棉罗拉与角钉帘隔距10mm,FA141A单打手成卷机梳针打手转速700r/min,棉卷罗拉转速12.3r/min;天平罗拉与梳针打手隔距12mm,由于经预开松并混和后的染色木纤和绢丝较为蓬松,棉卷定量370g/m,棉卷长度27.4m。环境相对湿度控制在68%。 The spun silk is thin and soft, with many silk and hair particles, and it is not easy to remove. The process principle of "grasping frequently and less grasping, combing more and beating less, mixing evenly, falling early, low speed, and anti-sticking" is adopted to properly enlarge the dust. The distance between the rods is 8 mm. Beater speed should be appropriately reduced, among them, the beater speed of ZFA026 automatic cotton blending machine is designed according to the minimum, the beater speed of FA106A card needle opener is 480r/min, the speed of FA046A vibrating cotton box feeder is 40m/min, the speed of corner nail cord is 40m/min, and the cotton equalizing roller and Corner nail curtain spacing is 10mm, FA141A single hand lapping machine card beater speed is 700r/min, lap roller speed is 12.3r/min; The wood fiber and spun silk are relatively fluffy, the basis weight of the cotton lap is 370g/m, and the length of the cotton lap is 27.4m. The relative humidity of the environment was controlled at 68%.

(3)梳棉工艺措施 (3) Carding process measures

绢丝纤维细软、光滑且长,强度低,在梳理过程中易断形成短绒,和染色木纤维混纺,纤维间抱合力差及其产生静电而导致棉网出现飘头、破洞、烂边等成网不良现象,梳棉采取“四锋一准、低速、大隔距、大速比”的工艺原则,加大棉网张力并加装导条皮圈装置,在避免纤维损伤的基础上提高其梳理效果,减少搓揉返花,实现纤维快速良好地转移,以提高棉网及生条质量。锡林针布AC2520×01850,道夫针布AD4030×01890,盖板针布MCC36。调节锡林-盖板隔距为0.35mm、0.33mm、0.30mm、0.30mm、0.33mm,给棉板-刺辊隔距放大为0.30mm,锡林-道夫隔距为0.20mm,锡林速度300rpm,刺辊速度630rpm,生条定量控制在20.6g/5m,生条出条速度78m/min。环境相对湿度控制在65%-70%。生条质量控制范围:棉结34粒/g。 Spun silk fiber is soft, smooth and long, with low strength, easy to break and form short pile during carding process, and blended with dyed wood fiber, the poor cohesion between fibers and the generation of static electricity will cause floating ends, holes, and rotten edges in the cotton web In case of poor web formation, the carding adopts the process principle of "four fronts and one accuracy, low speed, large gauge, and high speed ratio", increases the tension of the cotton web and installs a guide apron device, on the basis of avoiding fiber damage Improve the carding effect, reduce rubbing back, realize fast and good fiber transfer, and improve the quality of cotton web and raw sliver. Cylinder card clothing AC2520×01850, doffer card clothing AD4030×01890, cover card clothing MCC36. Adjust the cylinder-cover gauge to 0.35mm, 0.33mm, 0.30mm, 0.30mm, 0.33mm, enlarge the feeder-licker-in roller gauge to 0.30mm, cylinder-doffer gauge to 0.20mm, cylinder speed 300rpm, licker-in speed 630rpm, raw sliver weight control at 20.6g/5m, raw sliver delivery speed 78m/min. The relative humidity of the environment is controlled at 65%-70%. Sliver quality control range: neps 34 grains/g.

(4)并条工艺措施 (4) Drawing process measures

为了提高色纺纱的混色均匀,保证各种组份的均匀混合和混比准确,并条工序采用三道。因混色纱组份中羊绒卷曲度大、纤维弹性好、抱合力好,并条工艺以提高纤维伸直平行度,提高熟条条干均匀度为主,采取“轻定量、慢速度、大隔距、重加压”的工艺原则。适当降低车速,采用经复合涂料处理的软弹性胶辊并加大压力,发生防止缠绕罗拉胶辊。并条头、二道采用顺牵伸,有利于纤维的伸直,通道要光洁,喇叭口直径适中掌握,适当加大圈条张力,既避免堵塞断条,又可以适当提高条子的抱合力。由于羊绒条子比较蓬松,采用6根条子并合,其中色棉生条2根,其定量为21.8g/5m,木纤/绢丝有色生条3根,羊绒染色条1根,环境相对湿度控制在66%。 In order to improve the color mixing uniformity of color spinning and ensure the uniform mixing and accurate mixing ratio of various components, the drawing process adopts three steps. Because the cashmere in the melange yarn has a large degree of curl, good fiber elasticity, and good cohesion, the drawing process mainly focuses on improving the parallelism of the fibers and improving the evenness of the cooked sliver. The "light weight, slow speed, and large separation distance, heavy pressure" process principle. Properly reduce the speed of the vehicle, use soft elastic rubber rollers treated with composite coatings and increase the pressure to prevent winding roller rubber rollers. The drawing head and the second pass adopt parallel drafting, which is beneficial to the straightening of the fiber. The channel should be smooth and clean. Because the cashmere slivers are relatively fluffy, 6 slivers are combined, including 2 colored cotton raw slivers with a weight of 21.8g/5m, 3 colored raw slivers of wood fiber/silk silk, and 1 cashmere dyed sliver. The relative humidity of the environment is controlled. At 66%.

(5)粗纱工艺措施 (5) Roving process measures

粗纱工序以进一步提高纤维伸直平行分离度、改善条干、控制伸长率为主。粗纱工艺采取“重加压、低速度、轻定量、小张力、大捻度”的工艺原则,粗纱卷装不宜过大,否则容易冒纱、脱圈,影响细纱的正常纺纱,生产中结合较大轴向卷绕密度,可减少细纱退绕时的意外张力和断头。粗纱捻系数偏大控制,采用较小的粗纱张力,有利于纱条中纤维抱合,防止粗纱意外伸长而产生细节,有利于提高细纱牵伸质量。发挥主牵伸区的主导作用,在能牵伸开的情况下采用小隔距,有利于控制浮游纤维。后区隔距适当放大,可保证纤维在后区充分伸直,并减少纤维损伤。采用了抗静电剂处理过的贝克胶辊。主要工艺参数配置为: 粗纱定量为3.5g/10m,罗拉隔距为12×25×36mm,后区牵伸为1.3倍,捻系数为90,锭速为700rpm,钳口原始隔距为4.5mm。 The roving process is mainly to further improve the parallel separation degree of fiber straightening, improve the evenness and control the elongation. The roving process adopts the process principle of "heavy pressure, low speed, light weight, small tension, and large twist". Large axial winding density reduces accidental tension and end breaks during unwinding of spun yarn. The twist coefficient of the roving is too large to control, and the smaller roving tension is used, which is conducive to the cohesion of fibers in the sliver, preventing the roving from being accidentally elongated and causing fine details, and is conducive to improving the drafting quality of the spun yarn. Give full play to the leading role of the main drafting zone, and use a small gauge when the draft can be opened, which is beneficial to control the floating fibers. Proper enlargement of the distance in the rear area can ensure that the fibers are fully straightened in the rear area and reduce fiber damage. Baker rubber rollers treated with antistatic agents are used. The main process parameters are configured as follows: roving basis weight is 3.5g/10m, roller gauge is 12×25×36mm, rear draft is 1.3 times, twist coefficient is 90, spindle speed is 700rpm, original jaw gauge is 4.5mm .

(6)柔洁纺定位纺纱技术及其柔洁纺色纱工艺优化 (6) Soft and Clean Spinning Positioning Spinning Technology and Process Optimization of Soft and Clean Spinning Colored Yarn

针织纱要求条干均匀、毛羽少,利用环锭棉纺设备经改造而成的柔洁纺纱技术,即是在普通环锭纺纱三角区施加一个纤维柔顺处理面,在成纱三角区内形成很多纤维握持点,这些纤维握持点对外露纤维头端具有良好的握持作用,并与加捻转动力、须条牵引力协同作用,将外露纤维有效地转移进入到纱体内,降低了纱线表面毛羽,改善了光洁度。通过热湿作用,对纤维进行柔顺处理,极大地降低纤维的抗弯应力,使外露的长纤维通过加捻、扭转和移入纱体而消除或大幅度地减少成纱毛羽。在柔洁纺细纱工序采取“低车速、小后区牵伸、大捻系数、大粗纱回潮率”的工艺原则,成纱捻度偏大掌握,以保证须条间的紧密度,增加纤维间的抱合力,提高成纱强力。将粗纱经调湿处理,使其回潮率分别调至试验条件再纺纱,以达到柔化抚顺纤维,大幅减少毛羽的目的。在专用配件的选用上,钳口采用3.0mm带压力棒隔距块,在前牵伸区形成曲线牵伸从而增加附加摩擦力界,缩小浮游区长度,以加强对浮游纤维运动的控制,提高成纱条干均匀度。前胶辊使用WRC970软弹性胶辊,PG13854镀络钢领,瑞士布雷克C1 EL udr型3/0号钢丝圈,以控制气圈,降低毛羽,保证成纱条干优良。罗拉隔距为18×20mm。柔洁纺中纱线捻系数、粗纱回潮率、陶瓷工作面与纱条接触紧度和后区牵伸倍数等工艺参数均对成纱的产品质量及纺纱效果有不同程度的影响。成纱干定量1.638g/100mm,罗拉隔距1832mm(V型牵伸),后区牵伸1.02,前罗拉速度160r/min。 Knitting yarn requires uniform dryness and less hairiness. The soft and clean spinning technology transformed from ring-spinning cotton spinning equipment is to apply a fiber smoothing treatment surface in the triangle area of ordinary ring-spinning spinning, and form a soft yarn in the yarn-forming triangle area. Many fiber holding points, these fiber holding points have a good holding effect on the exposed fiber head end, and cooperate with the twisting rotation force and the sliver traction force to effectively transfer the exposed fiber into the yarn body, reducing the yarn Thread surface hairiness improves finish. Through the action of heat and humidity, the fibers are softened, the bending stress of the fibers is greatly reduced, and the exposed long fibers are twisted, twisted and moved into the yarn body to eliminate or greatly reduce yarn hairiness. In the spinning process of soft and clean spinning, the technological principle of "low speed, small back draft, large twist coefficient, and large roving moisture regain" is adopted, and the twist of the yarn is too large to ensure the tightness between the strands and increase the distance between fibers. Cohesion, improve yarn strength. The roving is subjected to humidity-conditioning treatment to adjust its moisture regain to the test conditions before spinning, so as to achieve the purpose of softening Fushun fiber and greatly reducing hairiness. In the selection of special accessories, the jaw adopts a 3.0mm spacer with a pressure bar, which forms a curved draft in the front draft area to increase the additional friction force and reduce the length of the floating area to strengthen the control of the floating fiber movement and improve Yarn evenness. The front rubber roller uses WRC970 soft elastic rubber roller, PG13854 plated steel ring, Swiss Blake C1 EL udr type 3/0 steel traveler, to control the air ring, reduce hairiness, and ensure excellent yarn evenness. The roller gauge is 18×20mm. Process parameters such as yarn twist coefficient, roving moisture regain, contact tightness between ceramic working surface and sliver, and draft ratio in the rear area in soft and clean spinning all have different degrees of influence on the product quality of the finished yarn and the spinning effect. Yarn dry basis weight is 1.638g/100mm, roller gauge is 1832mm (V-type drafting), rear draft is 1.02, and front roller speed is 160r/min.

(7)络筒工艺措施 (7) Winding process measures

为了保持柔洁纺色纱毛羽少的优越性能,在络筒采用“低速度、小张力”的工艺措施,保持络纱通道光洁,断纱装置灵活,气压设置偏小掌握,防止断头后筒子与槽筒摩擦造成纱线磨烂,以减少毛羽增长,降低棉结产生。合理配置电清工艺以减少纱疵,同时注意空捻结头质量,保证成纱质量。具体工艺参数为:棉结+390%,短粗+135%1.3cm,长粗+120%20cm,细节-40%30cm,络纱速度800m/min,纺纱张力10cN。 In order to maintain the superior performance of soft and clean dyed yarn with less hairiness, the "low speed, small tension" process measures are adopted in the winding to keep the winding channel clean, the yarn breaking device is flexible, and the air pressure setting is too small to control the bobbin after the end is broken. The friction with the grooved drum causes the yarn to be worn out, so as to reduce the growth of hairiness and reduce the generation of neps. Reasonably configure the electric cleaning process to reduce yarn defects, and at the same time pay attention to the quality of empty twist knots to ensure the quality of yarn. The specific process parameters are: neps + 390%, short thick + 135% 1.3cm, long thick + 120% 20cm, detail - 40% 30cm, winding speed 800m/min, spinning tension 10cN.

综上所述仅为本发明的一种优选实施例而已,并非用来限定本发明的实施范围。即凡依本发明申请专利范围的内容所作的等效变化与润饰,都应视为本发明的技术范畴。 In summary, the above is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the implementation scope of the present invention. That is, all equivalent changes and modifications made according to the content of the patent scope of the present invention should be regarded as the technical scope of the present invention.

Claims (7)

1. cotton/soft clean the colour-spun knitted yarn of wooden fibre/cashmere/spun silk and production method thereof, it is characterized in that, comprise the following steps: first cotton, wood fibre, cashmere, spun silk are dyeed, then the method that spun silk and wooden fiber cotton bag mix is adopted, make wooden fibre/spun silk carded sliver, then mixed by bar mode of mixing with the look cotton carded sliver and the cashmere carded sliver; Make ripe bar by three road drawing frames again, ripe bar is made rove by Speed frames; Finally in conjunction with institute after soft clean spinning technique transformation, there is unique spinning feature again and be spun into spun yarn.
2. cotton/soft clean the colour-spun knitted yarn of wooden fibre/cashmere/spun silk and production method thereof according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described cotton, wood are fine, cashmere and spun silk dye respectively; Utilize cotton spinning apparatus to carry out the technical study of soft clean spinning system positioning spinning technology, the soft clean tertiary colour of spinning of exploitation cotton, xylon, cashmere and spun silk different proportion colour mixture is spinned.
3. cotton/soft clean the colour-spun knitted yarn of wooden fibre/cashmere/spun silk and production method thereof according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: through optimizing spinning process in the spinning process of described soft clean colour-spun knitted yarn, tighten quality control, ensure that and produce smoothly, avoid the generation of the quality problems such as aberration, colour mixture are irregular, color dot, cotton knot, evenness fault.
4. cotton/soft clean the colour-spun knitted yarn of wooden fibre/cashmere/spun silk and production method thereof according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: described soft clean spinning system positioning spinning technological development is cotton, the soft clean tertiary colour of spinning of wood fibre, cashmere and spun silk different proportion colour mixture is spinned and technology measure, and production and processing becomes the fabric such as knitted underwear, woollen sweater, top grade.
5. cotton/soft clean the colour-spun knitted yarn of wooden fibre/cashmere/spun silk and production method thereof according to claim 1, it is characterized in that: described soft clean spinning system positioning spinning technology solves dyefastness, antifriction fastness, the thermal migration problem of four kinds of fibers, improve the spinnability of the rear fiber of dyeing, realize the cleanly production of Project Product colour-spun yarns, for garment production provides, moisture absorption is ventilative, antibiotic health care, removing peculiar smell and self-cleaning multifunctional fabric.
6. cotton/soft clean the colour-spun knitted yarn of wooden fibre/cashmere/spun silk and production method thereof according to claim 1, is characterized in that: described soft clean spinning system positioning spinning technology, greatly reduces Yarn filoplume, improves yarn quality; Solve the staple fibre such as goat cashmere and spun silk in spinning, cause more filoplume and cause the Cost Problems reducing fiber service efficiency and improve fabric, improve yarn fineness, improve product pilling resistance, ABRASION RESISTANCE.
7. cotton/soft clean the colour-spun knitted yarn of wooden fibre/cashmere/spun silk and production method thereof according to claim 1, is characterized in that spinning technological process:
Dyeing processes: FA002 automatic plucker → FA022 multi-mixer → FA106 porcupine opener → FA046 vibrating cotton box cotton feeding → FA141A single beater scutcher → FA201B carding machine;
Dyeing xylon, spun silk → FA002 automatic plucker → ZFA026 blending hopper automatic mixer → FA106A card wire opener → FA046A vibrating cotton box cotton feeding → FA141A single beater scutcher → FA201B carding machine;
The look cotton carded sliver, the coloured carded sliver of wooden fibre/spun silk, cashmere dyeing strip → FA306 drawing frame (three roads) → TJFA458A Speed frames → DTM129 fine spining machine (soft clean spinning technique transformation) → NO.21C automatic winder.
CN201410762332.3A 2014-12-13 2014-12-13 Cotton/wood fiber/cashmere wool/spun silk soft and clean color-spun knitted yarn and production method thereof Pending CN104499137A (en)

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Cited By (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106906554A (en) * 2017-02-06 2017-06-30 诸暨航丰针纺织有限公司 A kind of production technology of Anti-static flame-retardant fabric
CN107460580A (en) * 2017-08-30 2017-12-12 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 A kind of wool blended machine knitting yarn of solotex and its production technology
CN110295440A (en) * 2018-03-23 2019-10-01 上海水星家用纺织品股份有限公司 The preparation method of soft clean yarn fabric for home textile
CN111364155A (en) * 2020-04-28 2020-07-03 百隆东方股份有限公司 Method for manufacturing colored woven knitted fabric by using waste textiles as raw materials
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