CA2269795A1

CA2269795A1 - Conditioning shampoo

Info

Publication number: CA2269795A1
Application number: CA002269795A
Authority: CA
Inventors: Maria Puno-D'antonio
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: DIAMOND PRODUCTS Co
Priority date: 1996-11-14
Filing date: 1997-11-13
Publication date: 1998-05-22
Also published as: WO1998020855A1; EP0941058A1; AU742979B2; BR9713040A; AU5201198A

Abstract

Conditioning shampoo compositions are provided. Preferred conditioning shampoo compositions include an insoluble silicone, a stabilizing agent including a glyceryl ester and a smectite clay, an amino-functional silicone derivative, a pearl pigment, and water.

Description

CONDITIONING SHAMPOO
The invention relates to conditioning shampoos.
Shampooing has long been used to remove dirt and excess oil and sebum from human hair. While shampoo compositions are generally effective in cleansing the hair, shampooing tends to leave the hair in a tangled and unmanageable state.
Accordingly, conditioners have been developed to prevent this occurrence and to add body, shine, and other desired properties to the hair. Such conditioners are often applied to the hair in a separate step, after the shampoo has been rinsed out, allowed to remain on the hair for a short period, and rinsed out. Some shampoo users view applying a conditioner after shampooing, waiting the recommended period and having to rinse again, as an inconvenience. As a result, combination "conditioning shampoos" have been developed to allow the hair to be shampooed and conditioned in a single application step.
1 S The present invention features a conditioning shampoo that provides good cleaning, conditioning, and rinsability. In addition, the shampoo imparts increased volume and body to the hair, does not cause significant greasy build-up even with frequent use, and generally leaves hair feeling soft and shiny. The shampoo also has an aesthetic pearlescent appearance, and long shelf stability.
In one aspect, the invention features a conditioning shampoo including a cleansing agent, an insoluble silicone conditioning agent, a stabilizing agent comprising a glyceryl ester and a smectite clay, and water.
Preferably, the cleansing agent includes ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, lauramide DEA, cocamidopropyl betaine, and ammonium xylene sulfonate. More preferably, the shampoo includes these cleansing agents in the following amounts, by weight percent based on the total weight of the active ingredients in the shampoo (referred to hereinbelow as "% Active"): from about 9 to 10%
ammonium laureth sulfate, from about 3 to 4% ammonium lauryl sulfate, from about 3.5 to 4.5% sodium lauryl sulfate, from about 2 to 3% lauramide DEA, from about 1 to 2%
cocamidopropyl betaine, and from about 0.25 to 0.75% ammonium xylene sulfonate.
Preferred insoluble silicone conditioning agents include a mixture of a non-volatile polyalkyl siloxane and an amino-functional silicone derivative. Preferably the polyalkyl siloxane is dimethicone and the amino-functional silicone derivative is trimethylsilylamodimethicone. Preferred glyceryl esters include esters of diacetyl tartaric acid glyceryl stearate. A particularly preferred glyceryl ester is the emulsifier having the CTFA/INCI name "DATEM". Preferably, the smectite clay is a magnesium aluminum silicate, and the DATEM and magnesium aluminum silicate are provided in a weight ratio of from about 3:1 to 10:1. Preferred shampoos further include a pearling pigment. In I O these shampoos preferably the pearling pigment and the smectite clay are provided in a weight ratio of from about 1:3 to 1:8. In preferred shampoos, the stabilizing agent is provided in an amount sufficient to enable the shampoo to exhibit no visible phase separation after at least 10 temperature cycles wherein during each cycle the shampoo is held for 16 hours at 45 ~C, followed by 24 hours at 5 ~C, followed by 8 hours at 25 ~C. In particularly preferred shampoos, the shampoo also exhibits no visible phase separation after at least 10 freeze/thaw cycles.
In another aspect, the invention features a conditioning shampoo including a cleansing agent comprising, based on the total weight of the shampoo, from about 9 to 10% ammonium laureth sulfate; from about 3 to 4% ammonium lauryl sulfate, from about 3.5 to 4.5% sodium lauryl sulfate, from about 2 to 3% lauramide DEA, from about 1 to 2%
cocamidopropyl betaine, and from about 0.25 to 0.75% ammonium xylene sulfonate; an insoluble non-volatile silicone conditioning agent; a stabilizing agent; and water.
In a further aspect, the invention features a conditioning shampoo including a cleansing agent, a conditioning agent, a pearl pigment, a magnesium aluminum silicate, and water.
The invention also features methods of using these conditioning shampoos to clean and condition hair by applying the shampoo to wet hair and massaging the hair to form a lather, and rinsing the lather from the hair.
In yet another aspect, the invention features methods of making the conditioning shampoos. A preferred method includes the following steps: (a) dispersing the smectite clay and the pearling pigment in water to form a pigment dispersion; (b) adding one or more cleansing agents to the pigment dispersion; (c) adding the glyceryl ester and the insoluble silicone to the pigment dispersion and mixing until a stable emulsion is formed; and (d) adding the amino-functional silicone to the emulsion.
3 5 Preferably, step (a) is performed at about 70 to 80 ~ C, and includes predispersing the smectite clay in the water, adding the pigment, and mixing the clay, pigment and water until a desired viscosity is obtained, e.g., for about 40 to 70 minutes.
It is also preferred that step (c) be performed at about 70 to 80 ~C and include adding the glyceryl ester to the pigment dispersion, mixing until uniform, e.g., for about 15 to 30 minutes, and then adding the insoluble silicone end mixing until emulsified, e.g., for about 40 to 70 minutes. Preferably the emulsion is cooled, e.g., to about 50~C, before the amino-functional silicone derivative is added, and further cooled, e.g., to 35 ~C, before any other additives are added to the shampoo.
The term "insoluble silicone," as used herein, refers to a silicone that is insoluble in the shampoo composition matrix.
The term "stable emulsion," as used herein, refers to an emulsion which will exhibit no visible phase separation after at least one temperature cycle wherein the emulsion is held for 16 hours at 45 ~C, followed by 24 hours at 5 ~C, followed by 8 hours at 25 ~C.
Other features and advantages of the invention will be apparent from the description of preferred embodiments thereof, taken together with the drawings, and from the claims.
Preferred conditioning shampoo compositions include one or more cleansing agents, an insoluble silicone, an amino-functional silicone derivative, a pearl pigment, a stabilizing agent, and water.
Suitable cleansing agents include anionic surfactants such 86 alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkaryl sulphonates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, N-alkoyl sarcosinates, and alpha-olefin sulfonates.
Preferred anionic surfactants include sodium lauryl sulphate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, and ammonium laureth sulphate. Other suitable cleansing agents include amphoteric surfactants, such as alkyl amine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkyl amidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulphobetaines, alkyl glycinates, and alkyl carboxyglycinates. Preferred amphoteric surfactants include cocamidopropyl betaine. Non-ionic surfactants may also be included, e.g., condensation products of aliphatic primary or secondary linear or branched chain alcohols, or phenols with alkylene oxides, e.g., ethylene oxide, for example mono- or di- alkyl alkanolamides or alkyl polyglucosides. Preferably, the shampoo includes a mixture of the following WO 98l20855 PCT/US97/20620 cleansing agents, preferably in the amounts in parentheses, based on the total weight of the composition: ammonium laureth sulfate (9-10%), ammonium lauryl sulfate (3-4%), sodium lauryl sulfate (3.5-4.5%), lauramide DEA (2-3%), cocamidopropyI betaine ( 1-2%), and ammonium xylene sulfonate (0.25-0Ø75%). This blend has been found to enhance lathering and foaming of the shampoo, a property which tends to be compromised when silicones are added to shampoo formulations. This blend also provides good cleaning and rinsability. Preferably, the total amount of the cleansing agents, on a total weight basis (not % Active), ranges from about 35 to 65, more preferably 45 to 55, percent by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If too much of any cleansing agent is included, too much lather may be generated during shampooing, making it difficult to rinse the hair and stripping the conditioning agents from the hair during rinsing; if too little is included, the hair may not be completely cleaned during normal use of the shampoo and the shampoo may not generate sufficient lather.
Suitable insoluble silicone include non-volatile polyalkyl siloxanes.
Preferred polyalkyl siloxanes include those available from General Electric under the tradename VICASIL, and those available from Dow Corning under the tradename DC 200. A particularly preferred polyalkyl siloxane is dimethicone. Preferred siloxanes have a viscosity of from about 500 to l00,000 centistokes. Preferably, the insoluble silicone is present in an amount of from about 0.l0 to 5.0, more preferably 0.50 to 2.0, Active. If too much insoluble silicone is included, the shampoo may be unstable and may leave hair feeling dirty, with an oily or greasy residue (i.e., the hair may be overconditioned); if too little is included, the shampooed hair may be difficult to comb and under-conditioned (i.e., the hair may be underconditioned).
Suitable amino-functional silicone derivatives include water-insoluble, non-volatile amino-functional siloxanes. A preferred amine-functional silicone derivative is trimethylsilylamodimethicone, which has a viscosity of from about 50 to 500 centistokes at 25 ~C. The amino-functional silicone is preferably provided in the form of a water-miscible emulsion, more preferably an emulsion in which the siloxane droplets have a particle size of from about 50 to 600 micron. This siloxane is commercially available from the General Electric Company as SF1705, or in the form of an emulsion as SM-21115, or from Dow Corning Chemical Company as Dow Corning Q2-8220, or in the form of an emulsion as Dow Corning 929 emulsion or Dow Corning Q2-7224.
Preferably, the amino-functional silicone derivative is present in an amount of from about 0.01 to 1.0, more preferably 0.15 to 0.5, % Active. If too much is included, overconditioning may result; if too little is included, the hair may be underconditioned.
Preferably, the insoluble silicone and amino-functional silicone derivative are provided in a ratio of from about 2:1 to 5:1. It has been found that when these components are provided in a ratio within this range, the shampoo provides good cleaning and conditioning, and leaves the hair with increased body and a clean feel.
The stabilizing agent preferably includes, in combination, an emulsifier for the insoluble silicone and a co-emulsifier/suspending agent that is believed both to stabilize the insoluble silicone emulsion and to suspend the pearling pigment.
Suitable emulsifiers are those capable of forming a stable oil-in-water emulsion with the insoluble silicone. Preferred compositions include glyceryl esters, more preferably esters of diacetyi tartaric acid glyceryl stearate, which are believed to function as emulsifiers. A preferred glyceryl ester is commercially available from Goldschmidt Chemical Corporation under the tradename AMILAN~ GST 40 (the CTFA/INCI name of this compound is "DATEM"). This ester is produced by reacting glycerol, stearic acid and diacetyl tartrate, is an amorphous, high viscosity liquid, and has the following chemical structure:
O OH ~7 O
CH3-~CH2)~ 6-~-O-CH2-CH-CHZ-0-C-CH.O-C-CH3 COZH
DATEM is strongly substantive to protein surfaces, and thus provides good hair conditioning without build-up, in addition to emulsifying the silicone and stabilizing the shampoo.

the shampoo will tend to be undesirably high; if too little is included, the emulsion will tend to be unstable.
Suitable coemulsifier/suspending agents are those that are capable of ensuring the stability of the silicone emulsion and maintaining the pearl pigment suspended in the shampoo matrix during the normal shelf life of the shampoo, e.g., for 24 months. Preferred shampoos include inorganic clays, preferably refined smectite (montmorillonite) clays characterized by an expanding lattice structure, which are believed to function as suspending agents and co-emulsifiers. A preferred clay is magnesium aluminum silicate (CTFAiINCI name), a complex, colloidal clay.
Preferred magnesium aluminum silicates have an approximate average chemical analysis as follows:
55-65% silicon dioxide, 10-15% magnesium oxide, I % ferric oxide, 2-3% calcium oxide, 2-3% sodium oxide, 1-2% potassium oxide, with the balance being ignition loss.
Magnesium aluminum silicates are commercially available from Vanderbilt under the tradename VEEGUM. A preferred grade of VEEGUM clay is sold under the tradename VEEGUM ULTRA. This grade has a pH of approximately 5 when in an aqueous dispersion, reducing the need to add pH buffering agents to the shampoo formula, and provides an attractive, light-colored shampoo. A 5% dispersion of this clay in water has a viscosity of 225-42S cps, using Vanderbilt Test Method 884. Preferably, the clay is present in an amount of from about 0.05 to 3.0, more preferably 0. I 0 to I
.0, % Active. If too much is included, a gel-like emulsion having undesirably high viscosity may result, if too little is included, the emulsion will tend to be unstable and the pigment may settle out of the shampoo.
In preferred shampoos, the glyceryl stearate and the clay are provided in a weight ratio of from about 3:1 to I0:1, more preferably about 5:1, and the pigment and clay are provided in a weight ratio of from about 1:3 to 1:8, more preferably 1:6. These ratios have been found to provide excellent product stability and resistance to phase separation as a result of temperature cycling, e.g., preferred shampoos are capable of withstanding at least 5 temperature cycles wherein the emulsion is held for 16 hours at 45 ~C, followed by 24 hours at 5 ~C, followed by 8 hours at 25 ~C, without visible phase separation, and more preferred shampoos are capable of withstanding 10 or more such 3 5 temperature cycles.

-7_ Suitable pearl pigments are those pigments which will impart a pearlescent appearance to the shampoo formulation. Preferred pearl pigments include blends of mica and titanium dioxide, and titanium dioxide coated mica. Preferably, the ratio of mica to titanium dioxide in these preferred pigments is approximately 2:1, and the pigment has an average particle size of from about 2 to 85 micron. A particularly preferred titanium coated mica pigment is available from Rona, EM Industries, Inc. Chemicals and Pigments Division, Hawthorne, NY under the tradename 'fIMIRON MP-30. Preferably, the pearl pigment is included in an amount of from about 0.01 to 0.20, more preferably 0.025 to 0.10, % Active. If too much is included, the composition will tend to be too pearled, and the pigment may tend to settle out of the shampoo matrix; if too little is included, the pearling effect will be reduced.
The compositions further include an amount of water sufficient to act as a carrier for the other components of the shampoo and to provide a desired viscosity in the final product. Preferably, the composition contains from about 30 to 45 percent water based on the total weight of the composition. It is also preferred that the water be purified or deionized.
Other additives may be included in the conditioning shampoo, including but not limited to fragrances, anti-dandruff agents, humectants, combing aids, processing aids, dyes, thickeners, proteins, herb and plant extracts, and other additives used in the formulation of shampoos.
Example 1 A shampoo having the ingredients shown in the table below was prepared by the following procedure:
1. The purified water was charged to a mix tank and heated to 75 ~C. When the water reached this temperature, the smectite clay was added slowly and mixed until dispersed and uniform.
2. The pearl pigment was then added and the mixture was mixed for about 45-60 minutes at 75 ~C.
3. While the temperature was held at 75 ~C, a premixed blend of ammonium lauryl sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine, Lauramide DEA, and palmitic acid was added to the mixture and mixed for about 15 minutes.

_g_ 4. The DATEM was then added and the mixture was mixed for about 20 minutes at 75 ~C until uniform.
5. The insoluble silicone was then added and the mixture was mixed for about 4S-60 minutes at 75-80~C.
6. The remaining cleansing agents were then added, reducing the temperature of the mixture to about 6S ~C.

7. The mixture was then cooled to about SO~C.

8. At 50~C the amino-functional silicone emulsion was added, and the mixture was mixed for about 15 minutes.

9. The panthenol, tetrasodium EDTA, preservative, and humectant were added in that order, mixing after each addition until uniform.

10. The batch was cooled to about 3S~C and the wheat protein and fragrance were added in that order, mixing after each addition until uniform.

S Ingredients % Active Purpose Ammonium laureth sulfate9.667 Surfactant Ammonium lauryl sulfate3.3330 Surfactant Sodium lauryl sulfate 4.0000 Surfactant Lauramide DEA 2.17S0 Co-surfactant/foam booster Cocamidopropyl betaine1.277S Surfactant Ammonium xylene sulfonate0.S000 Surfactant/coupling agent Dimethicone 1.2S00 Non-water soluble cond.
agent Trimethylsilylamodimethicone0.3000 Non-water soluble cond.
1 S and octoxynol-40 and Agent (water-soluble isolaureth-6 silicone emulsion) DATEM 1.5000 Emulsifier Palmitic acid 0.2750 Combing aid Glycerine 0.8000 Humectant Magnesium aluminum 0.2S00 Suspending agent silicate (VEEGUM ULTRA) Tetrasodium EDTA 0.1200 Chelating agent DMDM hydantoin and 0.0300 Preservative iodopropynyl butylcarbamate dl-Panthenol 0.0S00 Body/shine enhancer 2S Hydrolyzed wheat protein0.0S00 Body enhancer and wheat oligosaccharides Mica and titanium dioxide0.0S00 Pearling agent Citric acid 1.0000 Processing aid (pH adjustment) Perfume 604l-AX 0.S000 Fragrance Purified-water q.s. to l00 Vehicle This shampoo was tested on human hair by a number of shampoo users.
These users reported that the shampoo provided good cleaning and conditioning, and left the hair feeling clean and conditioned, with little build-up observed even after daily use.
Other embodiment are within the claims.
For example, instead of, or in addition to, a pearl pigment, the shampoo may contain other types of pearling agents, e.g., liquid pearling agents such as glyceryl long chain esters, for example ethylene glycol distearate. If present, such pearling agents would be used in suitable quantities to impart the desired degree of pearling, as is well understood in the art. For example, if ethylene glycol distearate is used as the only pearling agent in the shampoo, preferred levels would generally be from about 0.10 to 0.25%.

Claims

1. A conditioning shampoo comprising:
a cleansing agent comprising an anionic surfactant;
0.1 to 5.0% of an insoluble non-volatile silicone conditioning agent;
a stabilizing agent comprising a glyceryl ester and a smectite clay; and water wherein said glyceryl ester comprises an ester of diacetyl tartaric acid glyceryl stearate.

2. The conditioning shampoo of claim 1, wherein said cleansing agent additionally comprises an amphoteric surfactant and a non-ionic surfactant.

3. The conditioning shampoo of claim 1, wherein said cleansing agent comprises ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, lauramide DEA, cocamidopropyl betaine, and ammonium xylene sulfonate.

4. The conditioning shampoo of claim 3, comprising from about 9 to 10% ammonium laureth sulfate, from about 3 to 4% ammonium lauryl sulfate, from about 3.5 to 4.5% sodium lauryl sulfate, from about 2 to 3% lauramide DEA, from about 1 to 2% cocamidopropyl betaine, and from about 0.25 to 0.75% ammonium xylene sulfonate.

5. The conditioning shampoo of any preceding claim, wherein said insoluble non-volatile silicone conditioning agent comprises a mixture of a polyalkyl siloxane and an amino-functional silicone derivatives.

6. The conditioning shampoo of claim 5, wherein said polyalkyl siloxane comprises dimethicone and said amino-functional silicone derivatives comprises trimethylsilylamodimethicone.

7. The conditioning shampoo of any preceding claim, wherein said glyceryl ester is produced by reacting glycerol, stearic acid and diacetyl tartrate.

8. The conditioning shampoo of any preceding claim, wherein said glyceryl ester is DATEM.

9. The conditioning shampoo of any preceding claim, wherein said smectite clay comprises magnesium aluminum silicate.

10. The conditioning shampoo of any preceding claim, wherein said glyceryl ester and said smectite clay are provided in a weight ratio of from about 3:1 to 10:1.

11. The conditioning shampoo of any preceding claim, further comprising a pearling pigment.

12. The conditioning shampoo of claim 11, wherein said pearling pigment and said smectite clay agent are provided in a weight ratio of from about 1:3 to 1:8.

13. The conditioning shampoo of any preceding claim, wherein said stabilizing agent is provided in an amount sufficient to enable the shampoo to exhibit no visible phase separation after 10 temperature cycles as defined herein.

14. A method of cleaning and conditioning hair comprising:
(a) providing a conditioning shampoo in accordance with any preceding claim;
(b) applying the conditioning shampoo to wet hair and massaging the hair to form a lather; and (c) rinsing the lather from the hair.

15. A method of making a conditioning shampoo in accordance with any of claims 1-13 comprising:
(a) dispersing the smectite clay and the pearling pigment, if present, in water to form a pigment dispersion;
(b) adding the cleansing agent to the pigment dispersion;
(c) adding the glyceryl ester and the insoluble non-volatile silicone to the pigment dispersion and mixing until a stable emulsion is formed; and (d) adding the amino-functional silicone, if present, to the emulsion.

16. The method of claim 15, wherein step (a) is performed at about 70 to 80°C.

17. The method of claim 15 or 16, wherein step (a) comprises pre-dispersing the smectite clay in the water, adding the pearling pigment, and mixing the clay, pigment and water for about 40 to 70 minutes.

18. The method of claim 20, wherein step (c) is performed at about 70 to 80°C.

19. The method of claim 15 or 18, wherein step (c) comprises adding the glyceryl ester to the pigment dispersion, mixing until uniform, and then adding the insoluble silicone and mixing until emulsified.

20. The method of claim 19, wherein after the addition of the insoluble silicone the mixture is mixed for about 40 to 70 minutes.

21. The method of claim 15, wherein steps (a) through (c) are performed at about 70 to 80°C, and wherein the emulsion formed in step (c) is cooled to about 50°C before the amino-functional silicone derivative is added.