BE1025943B1 - METHOD FOR GRADUATING A SEMI-PERSONALIZED LINE OF WOMEN'S CLOTHES - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method of graduation of a garment to obtain different sizes of said garment, said sizes being selected from a predetermined range of sizes, whereby said garment is manufactured on the basis of a predefined pattern of a size standard, said pattern of standard size is entered or stored in a computer system and whereby said pattern is a function of measurements for said standard size, whereby the measurements are selected from the group of width dimensions such as the bust outline and the waist contour for the upper garments and the waist contour and hip contour for the lower garments, wherein during said graduation, said pattern is adapted to suit sizes that differ from the standard size, wherein said width dimensions are modified in stages and in which the size of the bearings is between 3.5 cm and 6.5 cm per size.

Description

METHOD FOR GRADUATING A SEMI-PERSONALIZED LINE OF WOMEN'S CLOTHING

TECHNICAL AREA

The invention relates to the technical field of methods for the gradation of patterns of garments in which a pattern of a specific size of a garment is used as input to a system and a certain number of measurement points are indicated on said pattern.

CONTEXT

For decades the clothing and clothing industries have faced the intractable problem of providing well-cut clothing without the need for personalization. Extensive statistical studies have been undertaken to develop sets of standard sizes that will suit the majority of the population.

Typically, a prior art pattern used in the manufacture of clothing is generated in a number of steps. First, a qualified designer draws a new model, this model is then translated into a pattern in a standard size by the pattern maker. The pattern is then tested: a test garment using the pattern is mounted on mannequins and models. Once the creator has approved the final production of the model, the pattern pieces are graduated. This can be done by hand or using a computerized grading system. The result is a set of sizes assumed to correspond to the majority of the population. However, due to the statistical approach used, only people with average measures will have perfectly fitting clothes.

There are a number of shortcomings with these processes that affect both manufacturers and retailers. These include, but are not limited to, high labor costs and poorly cut clothing. International studies indicate

BE2018 / 5028 that about 70% of all women feel that the standard sizes offered in most stores do not offer them a satisfactory cut.

Unlike custom clothing that is tailored to the unique shape of the wearer's body, ready-to-wear clothing has a number of drawbacks. In addition to the graduation which is carried out according to average measurements, resulting in an approximate cut, they are mass produced and have no unique character. In addition, they are often made with poor quality materials.

The object of the present invention is to provide a solution to at least some of the above problems or drawbacks.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides a method for graduating patterns of garments according to claim 1. More specifically, the invention relates to a method intended for graduating a garment in order to obtain different sizes of said garment, said sizes being chosen from a range predetermined sizes, whereby said garment is made on the basis of a predefined pattern of a standard size, said standard size pattern is entered or stored in a computer system and whereby said pattern is a function of measurements for said standard size , whereby the measurements are chosen from the group of width dimensions such as the contour of the bust and the contour of the waist for the upper garments and the contour of the hips for the lower garments, in which, during said graduation, said pattern is adapted to suit sizes that differ from the standard size, characterized in that said width dimensions are modified in steps, and in which the size of the steps is between 3.5 cm and

6.5 cm. Consequently, and in a second aspect, the invention proposes a series of patterns for a garment in two or more different sizes, obtained using a method as described. This process ensures better clothing cut for a sub-population of Belgian, French and Dutch women over the age of 35.

In another aspect, the invention provides semi-personalized garments and a method for making these garments using a garment grading method as described above. The term "semi-personalized" refers to clothing that is made on the basis of a standard pattern that has been graduated so that it is intended to suit a certain type of body shape or posture. In the case of

BE2018 / 5028 present invention, the resulting semi-personalized clothing is well adjusted, in particular, for women who have a rectangular body shape and a specific posture. This morphology-posture combination is most common in West European women over 35 years of age. The graduation process thus makes it possible to obtain garments which are designed to suit a specific population of women who would otherwise wear poorly cut garments if they were produced using prior art graduation methods.

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

Figure 1 illustrates a female body.

FIG. 2 illustrates the graduation of a garment according to an embodiment of the invention.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Unless otherwise indicated, all the terms used in the description of the invention, including the technical and scientific terms, have the same meaning as that commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention relates. As additional help, term definitions are included to better appreciate the teaching of the present invention.

As used herein, the following terms have the following meanings:

"Un", "une", "le" and "la" as they are used here, designate both singular and plural referents, unless the context clearly indicates otherwise. For example, "a compartment" means one or more compartments.

"Approximately", as used herein, designating a measurable value such as a parameter, a quantity, a time duration and the like, is intended to encompass variations of +/- 20% or less, preferably + / - 10% or less, more preferably +/- 5% or less, even more preferably +/- 1% or less, and even more preferably +/- 0.1% or less of the specified value and at starting therefrom, to the extent that such variations are relevant to the disclosed invention. However, it should be understood that the value to which the modifier "about" refers is also specifically described.

BE2018 / 5028 "Understand", "comprising" and "includes" and "composed of" as used here are synonyms of "include", "including", "includes" or "contain", "containing", "contains And are inclusive or open terms that specify the presence of the following, for example, a component, and do not exclude or preclude the presence of additional components, features, elements, organs, steps, not mentioned, known in the art or disclosed therein.

The indication of numerical ranges by endpoints includes all the numbers and fractions included in this range, as well as the indicated endpoints.

Pattern or garment graduation is the process of obtaining different sizes, larger or smaller, based on a predefined standard size using a size specification sheet or graduation steps. These graduation steps include both increments and decrements and can be done manually or digitally. The graduation results in a set of patterns or clothes, of different sizes, but of similar shape and proportions to the standard size.

"Garment size" refers to the sizes on the labels used for clothing. There are a large number of standard size systems in the world, which gives ranges of different sizes. Although the size system does not affect its embodiment, the present invention is described here using the French size system for women's clothing. Consequently, the invention relates to the range of sizes including the sizes: 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52, 54, 56, 58 and 60.

The term "bust outline" is used to describe the maximum horizontal circumference measured during normal breathing with the subject standing and the measuring tape passed horizontally, under the armpits and across the prominence of the bust, preferably measured with moderate tension on a bra which must not deform the chest in an unnatural way and must not displace its volume.

The term "waist contour" refers to the circumference of the natural waist between the top of the hip bones (iliac crests) and the lower ribs, measured with the subject breathing normally and standing with the abdomen relaxed.

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The term "hip contour" refers to the horizontal circumference measured around the buttocks at the maximum circumference.

The term "back middle" denotes a measurement of the body which indicates the distance between the upper outer edge of one shoulder and the other upper outer edge of the other shoulder, measured on the subject's back with the subject breathing normally and standing with the abdomen relaxed.

The term "front middle" is a measurement of the body which is the distance between the places where the arms meet the side of the body, measured horizontally across the chest at a height above the upper bra band of the female subject.

The term "bust height" refers to a body measurement which is the distance measured vertically from the middle of the shoulder to the nipple of the female subject.

The term "front shoulder to waist" refers to a measurement of the body which is the distance measured vertically from the middle of the shoulder to the waist line of the female subject breathing normally and standing with the abdomen relaxed.

The term "armhole depth" refers to a measurement of the body which is the distance between the upper outer edge of the shoulder and the armpit, measured on the subject's back with the subject breathing normally and standing with the abdomen relaxed.

The term "amount" or "crotch depth" refers to a measurement of the body which is the distance between the waist and the crotch and is generally measured with the subject seated with a straight back and with the abdomen relaxed.

The term "crotch seam" or "interior seam" means a measurement of the body which is the distance between the crotch and the soles of the feet, measured in a vertical straight line with the subject standing, bare feet, feet slightly apart, and the weight of the body distributed equally on both legs.

The term "side length" refers to a body measurement which is the distance from the waist to the floor when the subject is standing barefoot with the abdomen relaxed and measured along the side of the leg.

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In the context of the present invention, the formulation "specific population" is not necessarily linked to a national population, but rather to a population genetically very close, that is to say whose body forms vary only slightly. Such a population may be part of a population in a country or may extend across a plurality of countries. A “specific population” can also designate a population which, because of its lifestyle, has similar body shapes and postures.

In a first aspect, the invention provides a method of scaling a garment in order to obtain different sizes of said garment, said sizes being chosen from a predetermined range of sizes, whereby said garment is produced on the basis of a pattern. predefined of a standard size, said standard size pattern is entered or stored in a computer system and whereby said pattern is a function of the measurements for said standard size, whereby the measurements are chosen from the group of width dimensions such as bust contour and waist contour for upper garments and hip contour for lower garments, in which, during said graduation, said pattern is adapted to suit different sizes which differ from said standard size, characterized in that said width dimensions are changed in steps, and in which the size of the steps is comp rise between 3.5 cm and 6.5 cm per size.

Statistical analysis of different populations has indicated that, in particular, the shape of the female body varies considerably. For example, British women tend to have more of a "pear" shape compared to German women. In addition to ethnic variations, body shape is also strongly influenced by age. The basis of this process is a statistical distribution of specific body shapes within a specific sub-population. The inventors took these variations into account and developed a process specifically adapted to Belgian, French and Dutch women over 35 years of age. The graduation process thus provided, based on the stepwise modification of the given measurements from 3.5 cm to 6.5 cm between sizes, guarantees that at least 80% of this sub-population will have clothes with an improved cut compared to the graduation processes provided today.

The feeling of wearing poorly cut clothes is particularly strong among customers when the width-length ratio of the garment is different from that of the customer. The report

BE2018 / 5028 width-length is a function of the specific population and must be taken into account to further improve the fit of the clothing for the population of interest. Consequently, additional body measurements comprising length measurements are integrated into the method, and thus, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, one or more additional measurements are chosen from the group consisting of the middle part, the middle part back, bust height, front shoulder at waist, armhole depth and back width for upper garments and leg, crotch seam and side length for lower garments, provided whereby said additional measurements are modified in steps and in which the size of the steps is between 0.3 cm and 1 cm per size.

In another preferred embodiment, the standard size pattern includes reference points, and whereby, during said graduation, the position of said reference points is changed in a lateral direction to a new position based on the measurements. These reference points are located on the contour lines of the patterns. In most cases, for each piece of clothing, the assembly of several parts is necessary, each part corresponding to a single piece of pattern. The reference points must therefore be present on each individual pattern piece. These reference points make it possible to completely reconstruct the particular contour line of the pattern, leading to a specific shape and dimension. Although for some complicated garment models, a large number of reference points will be necessary to accurately reconstruct the original shape, other simpler models may require only a limited number of reference points. Additionally, internal reference points which are located within the outline lines of the pattern may be present to indicate internal structural features such as, but not limited to, pockets, buttons, buttonholes, modifications decorative and fold lines.

During graduation, the position of the reference points is changed in a lateral direction to a new position based on the measurements. Preferably, the position of the reference points is recorded as the coordinate of points in a Cartesian coordinate system, to allow, in another preferred embodiment, the modification in stages of the pattern to be carried out automatically by an associated computer system . Computerized grading systems have been used in industry for several years and suitable software is known to those skilled in the art. The

BE2018 / 5028 possible software includes, but is not limited to computer-aided design software such as "Gemini CAD", "eTelesia CAD", "Fashion CAD", "Assyst Bullmer", and many others.

According to the present invention, the preferred standard size pattern which is entered or stored in a computer system and then used to generate larger or smaller sizes of the corresponding garment or pattern is a "size 38". Although other sizes can also be used as a standard size, the inventors believed that the realization of the original pattern in "size 38" offered an optimal view of the aesthetic aspects of the model. This “size 38” serves as an input for generating different sizes of the garment which are preferably chosen from the group of sizes comprising: 36, 40, 42, 44 and 46. Consequently, the inventors have noticed that the process as described above is particularly well suited for providing a series of patterns for a garment in two or more different sizes. Sizes 36 to 46 were chosen because these are the sizes that correspond to the largest proportion of Belgian, French and Dutch women over 35 years of age.

In addition, the inventors have found that the “semi-personalized” garments produced according to the aforementioned clothing graduation process are very well cut and offer the possibility of making small adaptations to the garment when it is worn by the person.

While tailor-made clothing requires taking the subject's bodily measurements and adapting each pattern to the subject's bodily measurements, the term "semipersonalized" refers to clothing that is made on the basis of a standard design that has has been graduated accordingly so that it is intended to suit a certain type of body shape or posture. In the case of the present invention, the resulting semi-personalized clothing is well suited, in particular, for women who have a straight body shape, sometimes also called a rectangular body type or type H in combination with a posture where the back is slightly twisted at the top and shoulders are tilted slightly forward. A type H body shape is a very common type of body shape for Western European women over the age of 35 and is characterized by balanced hips and bust while the waist is not very well defined. In most cases, the buttocks of H-shaped women are also rather flat than round. The inventors have found that the incremental modifications used in the graduation process described above result in garments

BE2018 / 5028 which are “semi-personalized” for women with these specific morphology and posture. Therefore, and in a third aspect, the invention provides a method of manufacturing semi-personalized clothing using a graduation method of clothing as described above.

In one embodiment, the garment is cut to size 38 and the pattern is corrected accordingly, before graduation. This ensures that the pattern is correct and that the garment produced using this pattern is suitable for a subject in the particular sub-population. The introduction of this cutting step also makes it possible to correct the pattern defects which could otherwise be overlooked. Preferably, the same garment is cut to size 44 and the pattern is corrected accordingly after graduation. The inventors have noticed that with large sizes, such as 44 and more, the pattern can be considerably improved by cutting the garment to size 44 and correcting if necessary to obtain a harmonious, comfortable and fitting cut.

These semi-personalized garments are, in another embodiment, produced with a seam reserve size of between 1 cm and 3 cm. This sewing reserve is greater than that used in the mass production of clothing, offering more room for adjustment after assembly. Consequently, the adjustment which is made possible by the greater seam allowance further contributes to a quality adjustment similar to that of garments which are tailor-made, but with a significantly lower cost of production.

In another embodiment, the clothes are made with a stitching of 3 points per cm. This is important because the number of stitches per cm directly influences the resistance of the seam, the appearance of the seam and the elasticity of the seam on stretch fabrics. The inventors have found that the best balance between the resistance of the seams and the appearance of the seams is achieved by using the 3 points mentioned above per cm.

In a last aspect, the invention provides a semi-personalized garment, characterized in that said garment is manufactured using a method of manufacturing a semi-personalized garment as described above. Preferably, the garment is any one of: pants, a dress, a skirt, a jacket, a coat, a blouse, a shirt, a cardigan or a sweater. According to another preferred embodiment, the garment comprises

BE2018 / 5028 one or more stretch fabrics, non-stretch fabrics, knitwear, leather or a combination thereof. These fabrics or knits can be made of any natural or synthetic material desired. Natural materials include, but are not limited to, cotton, silk, wool or leather. Synthetic materials include, but are not limited to, polyester, polyamide, lycra and nylon. Stretch fabrics include, but are not limited to, fabrics containing lycra such as stretch satin, stretch velvet, stretch denim, stretch cotton poplin and leatherette.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

The invention is further described by the following non-limiting figures which further illustrate the invention, and are not intended to, and should not be interpreted, to limit the scope of the invention.

Figure 1 illustrates a female body.

Figure 1 is a schematic illustration of the body shape of a specific population of women. The basis of the method described in the present invention is a statistical distribution of specific body shapes within a specific subpopulation. The inventors have taken these variations into account and have developed a process which is specifically adapted to Belgian, French and Dutch women over 35 years of age. These women have a straight body shape, sometimes also called a H-shaped or rectangular body shape or morphology. As illustrated in the left pane of Figure 1, an H or rectangular body shape is characterized by balanced hips and bust while the size is not very well defined. In most cases, the buttocks of H-shaped women are also rather flat than round (not shown in the figure). The central flap and the right flap in Figure 1 are the schematic illustration of the posture of a woman with a straight posture (central flap) and a woman with a posture in which the back is slightly twisted at the top and the shoulders slightly tilted forward (right pane). A type H body shape in combination with a posture as described above is very common in West European women over the age of 35. The invention is particularly well suited to this specific population of women, resulting in better cut clothing.

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FIG. 2 illustrates the graduation of a garment according to an embodiment of the invention.

Figure 2 shows a pattern for the back of a garment. The method according to an embodiment of the invention has been used to graduate a garment comprising a pattern from the rear part of the garment and to make two additional sizes of said pattern (2, 3). A standard size 38 (1) pattern, the size of which is based on body measurements of this size, was entered into a computer system and graduation was performed automatically by an associated computer system. When graduating, the pattern was adapted to suit sizes that differ from the predefined standard size, a size 10 was larger (2) than the standard size (1) and one size was smaller (3) than the standard size (1).

The standard size pattern (1) was provided with reference points (A-D) and during the graduation, the position of the reference points (A-D) was changed in a lateral position to a new position based on the corresponding measurements. Lines 15 perpendicular to the pattern illustrate the movement of the reference points (A-D). For clarity, the pattern has been simplified and only a limited amount of details are shown, as is the number of reference points.

First, the reference points which are a function of the width dimensions such as the bust contour and the waist contour were used to scale the pattern by changing the dimensions in stages, the size of the bearings being between 3 , 5 cm and

6.5 cm. This results in a lateral displacement of the lateral edge of the pattern to create a pattern that will suit a person with a larger or smaller (3) or smaller (3) waistline or waistline.

Secondly, additional measures, such as the armhole depth, the back middle and the back width were chosen and these measures were modified in steps with steps sizes between 0.3 cm and 1 cm by size. As a result, the position of the reference points (A-D) was changed in a lateral direction to a new position based on these additional measurements.

The measurements used in this illustrative example are given in table 1.

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Table 1. Measurements used to scale the garment.

Cut measurements 36. 38 40. Chest -X 88 + X Cut -X 72 + X hips -X 96 + X Armhole depth -Y 21 + Y Back middle -Y 35. + Y Back width -Y 38 + Y

Where X is 3.5 cm to 6.5 cm and Y is 0.3 cm to 1 cm.

Claims (15)

1. A method of scaling a garment in order to obtain different sizes of said garment, said sizes being chosen from a predetermined range of sizes, whereby said garment is produced on the basis of a predefined pattern of a standard size, said standard size pattern is entered or stored in a computer system and whereby said pattern is a function of the measurements for said standard size, whereby the measurements are chosen from the group of width dimensions such as the bust outline and the waist outline for upper garments and waist contour and hip contour for lower garments, in which, during said graduation, said pattern is adapted to suit sizes which differ from said standard size, characterized in that said width dimensions are modified in steps and in which the size of the steps is between 3.5 cm and 6.5 cm. 2. Method according to the preceding claim 1, characterized in that one or more additional measurements are chosen from the group consisting of the front middle, the back middle, the height of the bust, the front shoulder at the waist, the depth d armhole and back width for upper garments and upright, crotch seam and side length for lower garments, whereby said additional measures are varied in steps, and in which the size of the landings is between 0.3 cm and 1 cm per size. 3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said pattern comprises reference points, and whereby, during said graduation, the position of said reference points is changed in a lateral direction to a new position based on the measurements. 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said modification in stages is carried out automatically by an associated computer system. 5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said standard size is a size 38. 6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said different sizes of said garment are chosen from the group of sizes comprising: 36, 40, 42, 44 and 46. BE2018 / 5028 7. Pattern series for a garment in two or more different sizes, characterized in that the pattern series are obtained using a process as described in any one of the preceding claims. 8. A method of manufacturing semi-personalized clothing using a clothing graduation method according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6. 9. A method of manufacturing semi-personalized clothing according to claim 8, wherein the clothing is cut to size 38 and the pattern is corrected accordingly before graduation. 10. A method of manufacturing semi-personalized clothing according to claims 8 to 9, wherein the garment is cut to size 44 and the pattern is corrected accordingly after graduation. 11. A method of manufacturing semi-personalized clothing according to claims 8 to 10, wherein the clothing is manufactured with a seam allowance size between 1 cm and 3 cm. 12. A method of manufacturing semi-personalized clothing according to claims 8 to 11, wherein the clothing is produced with a stitching of 3 points per cm. 13. Semi-personalized garment characterized in that said garment is manufactured using a method according to any one of claims 8 to 12. 14. Semi-personalized clothing according to claim 13, wherein said clothing is any one of: pants, a dress, a skirt, a jacket, a coat, a blouse, a shirt, a cardigan or a sweater . 15. Semi-personalized clothing according to any one of claims 13 to 14, wherein said clothing comprises one or more stretch fabrics, non-stretch fabrics, knitwear, leather or a combination thereof.