AU2005256329B2 - Hair conditioners comprising amino-functional silicones - Google Patents

Abstract

Disclosed are cosmetic preparations, particularly hair conditioners, comprising at least one quaternary ammonium compound, at least one amino-functional silicone, and at least one polyhydroxy compound with at least 2 OH groups. The weight ratio between amino-functional silicones and polyhydroxy compounds ranges between 1:1 and 100:1.

Description

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 PCT/EP2005/001927 "Hair conditioners comprising amino-functional silicones" The invention relates to hair conditioners comprising 5 amino-functional silicones, and to the use of these compositions for the cleansing and/or care of skin and hair. The cosmetic treatment of skin and hair is an important 10 part of human body care. Thus, human hair is frequently treated today with hair-cosmetic compositions. These include, for example, cleansing of the hair with shampoos, care and regeneration using rinses and treatments, and bleaching, coloring and setting of the 15 hair using dyes, toning agents, waving agents and styling preparations. Here, compositions for changing or tinting the color of the hair of the head play an outstanding role. If the bleaching agents which cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by breakdown of the 20 natural hair colorants are ignored, essentially three types of hair dyes are of importance in the field of hair dyeing: For permanent, intensive dyeings with corresponding 25 fastness properties, "oxidation dyes" are used. Such dyes customarily contain oxidation dye precursors, "developer components" and "coupler components". Under the influence of oxidants or of atmospheric oxygen, the developer components form the actual colorants with one 30 another or with coupling to one or more coupler components. The oxidation dyes are distinguished by outstanding, long-lasting dyeing results. For naturally acting colorings, however, customarily a mixture of a relatively large number of oxidation dye precursors 35 must be employed; in many cases direct dyes are furthermore used for tinting. If the colorants formed or directly employed in the course of the color H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 2 - PCT/EP2005/001927 formation have markedly different fastnesses (e.g. UV stability, fastness to perspiration, fastness to washing etc.), a discernible and therefore undesirable color shift can occur with time. This phenomenon occurs 5 increasingly if the hairstyle contains hair or zones of hair having a differing degree of damage. An example of this is long hair, in which the tips of the hair exposed to all possible environmental influences for a long time are damaged markedly more severely than the 10 relatively freshly grown zones of hair. For temporary dyeings, dyes or toning agents are customarily used which contain "direct dyes" as dyeing components. These are colorant molecules which become 15 attached directly to the hair and need no oxidative process for the formation of the color. These dyes include, for example, henna, which is already known from antiquity for body and hair dyeing. These dyeings are as a rule markedly more sensitive to shampooing 20 than the oxidative dyeings, such that a frequently undesirable shift in shade or even a visible "decolorization" then occurs very much more rapidly. Finally, recently a novel dyeing process of great 25 regard has been found. In this process, precursors of the natural hair colorant melamine are applied to the hair; these then form naturally analogous colorants in the hair in the course of oxidative processes. In such processes, for example, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline is 30 employed as a colorant precursor. With, in particular repeated, application of agents containing 5,6 dihydroxyindoline it is possible to restore the natural hair color to people having hair which has turned gray. The dyeing can be carried out here using atmospheric 35 oxygen as the only oxidant, so that no further oxidants have to be made use of. In the case of people having originally medium-blonde to brown hair, the indoline H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 3 - PCT/EP2005/001927 can be employed as the sole colorant precursor. In the case of people having originally red and in particular a dark to black hair color, however, satisfactory results can often only be achieved by additional use of 5 further colorant components, in particular special oxidation dye precursors. Not least due to the heavy stress on the hair, for example by dyeing or permanent waving and by the 10 cleansing of the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products having an action which is as long-lasting as possible increases. Care compositions of this type influence the natural structure and the properties of 15 the hair. Thus, subsequently to such treatments, for example, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected against increased splitting. 20 It has therefore for a long time been customary to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. Here, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, customarily in the form of a rinse. By means of this 25 treatment, depending on the formulation, the comb ability, the hold and the fullness of the hair are improved and the splitting rate is reduced. Furthermore, recently "combination preparations" have 30 been developed in order to reduce the expense of the customary multistage processes, in particular in the case of direct use by consumers. In addition to the customary components, for example 35 for the cleansing of the hair, these preparations additionally contain active ingredients which were formerly reserved for the hair aftertreatment H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 4 - PCT/EP2005/001927 compositions. The consumer thus saves an application step; at the same time, the expense of packing is reduced, since a product is used less. 5 The active ingredients available both for separate aftertreatment and for combination preparations in general preferably act on the hair surface. Thus, active ingredients are known which impart sheen, hold, fullness, better wet or dry combabilities to the hair 10 or prevent splitting. Just as important as the external appearance of the hair is, however, the internal structural cohesion, which can in particular be greatly influenced in oxidative and reductive processes such as dyeing and permanent waving. 15 The known active ingredients, however, cannot meet all requirements to an adequate extent. There is therefore furthermore a need for active ingredients or active ingredient combinations for cosmetic compositions 20 having good care properties and good biodegradability. In particular in the case of colorant- and/or electrolyte-containing formulations, there is a need for additional caring active ingredients, which can be incorporated into known formulations without problem. 25 In addition to quaternary ammonium compounds, recently silicones have also been employed in hair-conditioning compositions as a haircare component. Among the silicones, the amino-functional silicones have 30 established themselves as suitable representatives having good properties. It has now been found that particularly advantageous results are achieved if quaternary ammonium compounds 35 (QACs) are combined with amino-functional silicones and polyhydroxy compounds. On use of this combination, surprisingly good properties of the treated skin and of 5 the hair are achieved, in particular improved comb-abilities, improved sheen and improved elasticity. A first subject of the present invention is therefore a hair conditioner comprising a) at least one quaternary ammonium compound, 5 b) at least one amino-functional silicone, c) at least one polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups, where the weight ratio of amino-functional silicones to polyhdyroxy compounds [b) to c)] is 1:1 to 100:1. In an aspect of the invention there is provided a hair conditioner composition 10 comprising a) at least one quaternary ammonium compound, b) at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (II)

(CH

3

)

3 Si-[O-Si(CH 3

)

2 ]n[OSi(CH 3 )]m-OSi(CH3)3 (II), 15 CH 2

CH(CH

3

)CH

2

NH(CH

2

)

2 N H 2 in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between I and 2000, where n preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, or that it contains an amino-functional silicone of the formula (III) 20 R-[Si(CH3)2-O1.1[Si(R)-O]m,-[Si(CH3)2]n2-R (III),

(CH

2

)

3

NH(CH

2

)

2

NH

2 in which R is -OH, -O-CH 3 or a -CH 3 group and m, nI and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between I and 2000, where the sum (ni + n2) preferably assumes 25 values from 0 to 1999 and m preferably assumes values from I to 2000, 5a c) at least one polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups and d) at least polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV)

H(CH

2 )k(OCH 2

CH

2 )nOH (IV), in which k is a number between I and 18 and n is a number between 2 and 20 with s particular preference for the values 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12 and 14. where the weight ratio of amino-functional silicones to polyhydroxy compounds [b) to c)] is 1:1 to 100:1. The compositions according to the invention contain an active ingredient combination consisting of three constituents, constituents b) and c) being employed 10 within a certain weight ratio to one another. In preferred compositions according to the invention, the weight ratio of amino-functional silicones polyhydroxy compounds [b) to c)] is 1:1 to 80:1, further preferably 1.05:1 to 70:1, particularly preferably 1.1:1 to 50:1 and in particular 1.12:1 to 25:1. The constituents a) to c) are described in detail below. If active ingredient complex 15 (A) is referred to below, this statement relates to the three constituents a), b) and c) compulsorily contained in the compositions according to the invention. As constituent a), the compositions according to the invention contain at least one quaternary ammonium compound, i.e. a compound which has a positively charged nitrogen atom. QACs which contain four (optionally substituted) hydrocarbon radicals 20 are particularly preferred. Among the large number of possible compounds, the compound classes consisting of the cationic surfactants and the cationic polymers are in particular preferred.

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 6 - PCT/EP2005/001927 According to the invention, cationic surfactants of the type consisting of the quaternary ammonium compounds, the ester quats and the amidoamines are employable. 5 Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethyl ammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, 10 stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetyl methylammonium chloride, and the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and 15 Quaternium-83. The long alkyl chains of the above mentioned surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms. According to the invention, QACs having behenyl 20 radicals, in particular the substances known under the name behenyltrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyl trimethylammonium chloride or bromide) are preferably employable. Other preferred QACs have at least two behenyl radicals, QACs which have two behenyl radicals 25 on an imidazolinium backbone being particularly preferred. These substances are commercially obtainable, for example, under the names Genamin" KDMP (Clariant) and Crodazosofto DBQ (Crodauza) . 30 Ester quats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids 35 with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such products are marketed, for example, under the H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 7 - PCT/EP2005/001927 trademarks Stepantex", Dehyquart" and Armocare". The products Armocareo VGH-70, an N,N-bis(2-palmitoyloxy ethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, and Dehyquarto F-75, Dehyquart" C-4046, Dehyquart" L80 and Dehyquart" AU-35 5 are examples of such ester quats. The alkylamidoamines are customarily prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A particularly 10 suitable compound according to the invention from this substance group is the stearamidopropyldimethylamino commercially obtainable under the name Tegoamid" S 18. The cationic surfactants are preferably present in the 15 compositions according to the invention in amounts from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts from 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred. 20 According to the invention, cationic polymers are also employable particularly advantageously as QACs. Cationic polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and/or side chain which can "temporarily" or "permanently" be 25 cationic. According to the invention, polymers described as "permanently cationic" are those which have a cationic group independently of the pH of the medium. As a rule, these are polymers which contain a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an 30 ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a Cl-4 hydrocarbon group to a main polymer chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid 35 or its derivatives have proven particularly suitable. Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I), H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 8 - PCT/EP2005/001927

-[CH

2 -C-]n X~ (Gl-I) 5 CO-0- (CH 2 ),m-NR R R4 in which R 1 = -H or -CH 3 , R 2 , R 3 and R 4 independently of one another are selected from C1-4-alkyl, alkenyl or 10 hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n = a natural number and X~ is a physiologically tolerable organic or inorganic anion, and copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units shown in formula (Gl-I) and nonionic monomer units are particularly preferred 15 cationic polymers. Within the scope of these polymers, those are preferred according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies: - R 1 is a methyl group 20 - R 2 , R 3 and R 4 are methyl groups - m has the value 2. Suitable physiologically tolerable counterions X~ are, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, 25 methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Halide ions are preferred, in particular chloride. A particularly suitable homopolymer is the, if desired 30 crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) having the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are commercially obtainable, for example, under the names Rheocare" CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen" CR (Ethnichem). If desired, the crosslinking 35 can be carried out with the aid of polyolefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 9 - PCT/EP2005/001927 ether, polyallyl polyglyceryl ether, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred 5 crosslinking agent. The homopolymer is preferably employed in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should have a polymer content of not below 30% by weight. Such 10 polymer dispersions are commercially obtainable under the names Salcare" SC 95 (about 50% polymer content, further components: mineral oil (INCI name: mineral oil) and tridecylpolyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) and Salcare" SC 96 15 (about 50% polymer content, further components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate) and tridecylpolyoxy-propylene polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-trideceth-6)). 20 As nonionic monomer units, copolymers having monomer units according to formula (Gl-I) preferably contain acrylamide, methacrylamide, C 1

.

4 -alkyl acrylates and C 1 4 -alkyl methacrylates. Among these nonionic monomers, 25 acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as in the case of the homopolymers described above. A preferred copolymer according to the invention is the crosslinked acryl amide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride 30 copolymer. Those copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of approximately 20:80 are obtainable commercially as an about 50% strength nonaqueous polymer dispersion under the name Salcare* SC 92. 35 Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example, H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 10 - PCT/EP2005/001927 - quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as are obtainable commercially under the names Celquat" and Polymer JRO. The compounds Celquato H 100, Celquat" L 200 and Polymer JR 400 are preferred 5 quaternized cellulose derivatives, - cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-C 44 13 686, - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquato 50, 10 - cationic guar derivatives, such as, in particular, the products marketed under the trade names Cosmedia guar and Jaguar", - polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid 15 and methacrylic acid. The products obtainable commercially under the names Merquat*100 (poly(dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat*550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such 20 cationic polymers, - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as, for example, with diethyl sulfate-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone 25 dimethylamino-ethyl methacrylate copolymers; such compounds are obtainable commercially under the names Gafquat0734 and Gafquat0755, - vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers, as are supplied under the names Luviquat' 30 FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552, - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol, - and the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 having quaternary nitrogen 35 atoms in the main polymer chain.

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 11 - PCT/EP2005/001927 Likewise, the cationic polymers employed can be the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product e.g. Quatrisoft" LM 200). The copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as are obtainable as 5 the commercial products Copolymer 845 (manufacturer: ISP), Gaffixo VC 713 (manufacturer: ISP), GafquatOASCP 1011, GafquatOHS 110, Luviquat08155 and Luviquat" MS 370, can also be used according to the invention. 10 Further cationic polymers which can be employed in the compositions according to the invention are the "temporarily cationic" polymers. These polymers customarily contain an amino group, which at certain pHs is present as a quaternary ammonium group and thus 15 cationically. Chitosan and its derivatives, for example, are preferred, such as are freely available commercially under the trade names Hydageno CMF, Hydageno HCMF, Kytamer PC and Chitolamo NB/101. 20 Preferred cationic polymers according to the invention are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer"JR 400, Hydagen" HCMF and Kytamer" PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in 25 particular the commercial product Honeyquat® 50, cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-C 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37. Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be 30 counted among the cationic polymers, where the underlying protein hydrolyzate can originate from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soy beans or almonds, from marine life forms, 35 for example from fish collagen or algae, or protein hydrolyzates obtained biotechnologically. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 12 - PCT/EP2005/001927 according to the invention are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by a chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic, hydrolysis, by an enzymatic hydrolysis and/or a combination of both types 5 of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins as a rule affords a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution from approximately 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Those cationic protein hydrolyzates are preferred whose underlying protein 10 content has a molecular weight of 100 up to 25 000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and their mixtures. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or of the 15 amino acids is often carried out by means of quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N,N-dimethyl-N-(n alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be derivatized still further. Typical examples of the 20 cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention which may be mentioned are the products mentioned under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, 25 Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, N.W., Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and commercially obtainable products: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium 30 Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium 35 Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 13 - PCT/EP2005/001927 Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, 5 Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Pro tein/Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl 10 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium 15 Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium 20 Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, 25 Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. 30 The plant-based cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are very particularly preferred. The cationic polymers are preferably contained in the 35 compositions according to the invention in amounts from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition.

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 14 - PCT/EP2005/001927 Amounts from 0.1 to 5% by weight are particularly preferred. In summary, compositions according to the invention are 5 preferred which, based on the weight of the composition, contain 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.75 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, of quaternary ammonium compound(s). 10 As constituent b), the compositions according to the invention contain at least one amino-functional silicone, i.e. a silicone which contains at least one (optionally substituted) amino group. 15 Such silicones can be described, for example, by the formula M (RaQbSiO(4-a-b) /2)x (RcSiO(4-c) /2)yM, 20 where in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having 1 to approximately 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula

-R

1 HZ, in which R 1 is a divalent, connecting group, 25 which is bonded to hydrogen and the radical Z, composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms, and Z is an organic, amino-functional radical, which contains at least one amino-functional group; "a" 30 assumes values in the range from approximately 0 to approximately 2, "b" assumes values in the range from approximately 1 to approximately 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from approximately 1 to approximately 3, and x is a 35 number in the range from 1 to approximately 2000, preferably from approximately 3 to approximately 50 and most preferably from approximately 3 to approximately H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 15 - PCT/EP2005/001927 25, and y is a number in the range from approximately 20 to approximately 10 000, preferably from approximately 125 to approximately 10 000 and most preferably from approximately 150 to approximately 5 1000, and M is a suitable silicone end group, as is known in the prior art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Nonrestricting examples of the radicals represented by R include alkyl radicals, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, lsopropyl butyl, isobutyl, amyl, 10 isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; alkenyl radicals, such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; cycloalkyl radicals, such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon 15 radicals, such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3 trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like and sulfur-containing radicals, such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably, 20 R is an alkyl radical, which contains 1 to approximately 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of Ri include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene,

-CH

2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH 2

CH

2

SCH

2

CH

2 -, 25 - CH 2

CH

2

OCH

2 -, -OCH 2

CH

2 -, -OCH 2

CH

2

CH

2 -, -CH 2 CH (CH3) C (0) OCH 2 -, - (CH 2 ) 3-CC (0) OCH 2

CH

2 -, -C 6

H

4

C

6

H

4 -, -C 6

H

4

CH

2

C

6

H

4 -; and - (CH 2 ) 3 C (0) SCH 2

CH

2 - Z is an organic, amino-functional radical, comprising 30 at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH(CH 2 )zNH 2 , in which z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH(CH 2 )z(CH 2

)

2 zNH, in which both z and zz are independently 1 or more, where this structure comprises diamino ring structures, such as 35 piperazinyl. Z is most preferably an -NHCH 2

CH

2

NH

2 radical. Another possible formula for Z is

-N(CH

2 )z(CH 2 )zzNX 2 or -NX 2 , in which each X of X 2 is H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 16 - PCT/EP2005/001927 selected independently from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0. 5 Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional radical of the formula -CH 2

CH

2

CH

2

NHCH

2

CH

2

NH

2 . In the formulae, "a" assumes values in the range from approximately 0 to approximately 2, "b" assumes values in the range from approximately 2 to approximately 3, "a" + "b" is less 10 than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from approximately 1 to approximately 3. The molar ratio of the RaQbSiO( 4 -a-b)/ 2 units to the RcSiO( 4 -c)/ 2 units is in the range from approximately 1:2 to 1:65, preferably from approximately 1:5 to approximately 1:65 15 and most preferably from approximately 1:15 to approximately 1:20. If one or more silicones of the above formula are employed, then the various variable substituents in the above formula can be different in the various silicone components which are present in 20 the silicone mixture. Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (I) 25 R ' aG 3 -a-Si (OSiG 2 ) n- (OSiGbR' 2-b) m-O-SiG 3 -a-R' a (I) , in which: - G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH 3 , -CH 3 , 30 -CH 2

CH

3 , -CH 2

CH

2

CH

3 , - CH (CH 3

)

2 , -CH 2

CH

2

CH

2

H

3 ,

-CH

2

CH(CH

3

)

2 , -CH(CH 3

)CH

2

CH

3 , -C(CH 3

)

3 ; - a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0; - b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 35 1, - m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 17 - PCT/EP2005/001927 150, where n preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10, 5 - R' is a monovalent radical selected from o -N (R") -CH 2

-CH

2 -N (R") 2 o -N(R")2 0 -N+(R")3A o -N*H(R")2A 10 o -N*H2(R")A o -N(R") -CH 2

-CH

2

-N*R"H

2 A-, where each R" is identical or different radicals from the group consisting of -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the C 1 20 -alkyl 15 radicals, preferably -CH 3 , -CH 2

CH

3 ,

-CH

2

CH

2

CH

3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2, -CH 2

CH

2

CH

2

H

3 ,

-CH

2

CH(CH

3

)

2 , -CH(CH 3

)-CH

2

CH

3 , -C(CH 3

)

3 , and A is an anion which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide 20 or methosulfate. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (II) 25

(CH

3 ) 3 Si- [O-Si (CH 3 ) 2 ] n [OSi (CH 3 ) ] m-OSi (CH 3 ) 3 (II),

CH

2 CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 NH (CH 2 ) 2

NH

2 in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is 30 between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. 35 These silicones are described according to the INCI declaration as trimethylsilylamodimethicones.

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 18 - PCT/EP2005/001927 Also particularly preferred are compositions according to the invention which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (III) 5 R- [Si (CH 3 ) 2-0] ni [Si (R) -0] m- [Si (CH 3 ) 2] n 2 -R (III),

(CH

2 ) 3 NH (CH 2 ) 2

NH

2 10 in which R is -OH, -O-CH 3 or a -CH 3 group and m, nl and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + ni + n2) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably assumes 15 values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10. These silicones are described according to the INCI declaration as amodimethicones. 20 Independently of which amino-functional silicones are employed, compositions according to the invention are preferred in which the amino-functional silicone has an amine number of above 0.25 meq/g, preferably of above 0.3 meq/g and in particular of above 0.4 meq/g. The 25 amine number stands here for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and is also stated in the unit mg of KOH/g. 30 Preferred compositions according to the invention contain, based on the weight of the composition, 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of amino-functional 35 silicone(s) H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 19 - PCT/EP2005/001927 As constituent c), the compositions according to the invention contain at least one polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups. Among these compounds, those having 2 to 12 OH groups and in particular those 5 having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred. Polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are, for example, glycol (CH 2

(OH)CH

2 OH) and other 1,2-diols such as H-(CH 2 )n-CH(OH)CH 2 OH with n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 10 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. 1,3 Diols such as H-(CH 2 )n-CH(OH)CH 2

CH

2 OH with n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 are also employable according to the invention. The (n,n+l) or (n,n+2) diols having nonterminal OH 15 groups can likewise be employed. Important representatives of polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols. 20 Among the polyhydroxy compounds having 3 OH groups, glycerol has outstanding importance. In summary, compounds according to the invention are 25 preferred in which the polyhydroxy compound is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol and their mixtures. 30 Independently of the type of polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups employed, compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on the weight of the composition, contain 0.01 to 5% by 35 weight, preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.15 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.3 to 2.5% by weight of polyhydroxy compound(s).

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 20 - PCT/EP2005/001927 With particular preference, the compositions according to the invention can additionally contain polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV) 5 H (CH 2 ) k (OCH 2

CH

2 ) nOH (IV) in which k is a number between 1 and 18 with particular preference for the values 0, 10, 12, 16 and 18 and n is 10 a number between 2 and 20 with particular preference for the values 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12 and 14. Among these, the alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, of triethylene glycol, of tetraethylene glycol, of pentaethylene glycol, of hexaethylene glycol, of 15 heptaethylene glycol, of octaethylene glycol, of nonaethylene glycol, of decaethylene glycol, of dodecaethylene glycol and of tetradecaethylene glycol and the alkyl derivatives of dipropylene glycol, of tripropylene glycol, of tetrapropylene glycol, of 20 pentapropylene glycol, of hexapropylene glycol, of heptapropylene glycol, of octapropylene glycol, of nonapropylene glycol, of decapropylene glycol, of dodecapropylene glycol and of tetradecapropylene glycol are preferred, among these the methyl, ethyl, propyl, 25 n-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives being preferred. It has been shown that mixtures of "short-chain" 30 polyalkylene glycol ethers with such "long-chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers have advantages. "Short- or long-chain" refers in this connection to the degree of polymerization of the polyalkylene glycol. Mixtures of polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of 35 oligomerization of 5 or less with polyalkylene glycol ethers having a degree of a oligomerization of 7 or more are particularly preferred. Mixtures of alkyl H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 21 - PCT/EP2005/001927 derivatives of diethylene glycol, of triethylene glycol, of tetraethylene glycol, of pentaethylene glycol, of dipropylene glycol, of tripropylene glycol, of tetrapropylene glycol or of pentapropylene glycol 5 with alkyl derivatives of hexaethylene glycol, of heptaethylene glycol, of octaethylene glycol, of nonaethylene glycol, of decaethylene glycol, of dodecaethylene glycol, of hexapropylene glycol, of heptapropylene glycol, of octapropylene glycol, of 10 nonapropylene glycol, of decapropylene glycol, of dodecapropylene glycol or of tetradecapropylene glycol are preferred, in both cases the n-octyl, n-decyl, n dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives being preferred. 15 Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV a) of the formula (IV) , in which n is the numbers 2, 3, 4 or 5 and at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV b) of 20 the formula (IV) , in which n is the numbers 10, 12, 14 or 16, where the weight ratio (IV b) to (IV a) is 10:1 to 1:10, preferably 7.5:1 to 1:5 and in particular 5:1 to 1:1. 25 In addition to the substances mentioned, the compositions according to the invention can contain further constituents. With particular preference, these are, for example, vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors, such that preferred compositions according 30 to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain at least one substance from the group consisting of the vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors being preferred 35 which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 22 - PCT/EP2005/001927 The group of substances described as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A 1 ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin

A

2 ). -Carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Suitable vitamin A components according to the invention are, 5 for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate. The compositions according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts from 0.05-1% by weight, 10 based on the total preparation. The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex includes, inter alia - vitamin B 1 (thiamine) 15 - vitamin B 2 (riboflavin) - vitamin B 3 . The compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) often appear under this description. Nicotinamide is preferred according to the invention, and is contained in the 20 compositions used according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition. - vitamin B 5 (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). In this group, preferably panthenol 25 and/or pantolactone is employed. Derivatives of panthenol employable according to the invention are in particular the esters and ethers of panthenol and cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, 30 panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The compounds of the vitamin B 5 type mentioned are contained in the compositions according to the 35 invention preferably in amounts from 0.05 - 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 23 - PCT/EP2005/001927 from 0.1 - 5% by weight are particularly preferred. - Vitamin B 6 (pyridoxine and also pyridoxamine and pyridoxal). 5 Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is employed in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.1 to 3% by weight, based on the total composition. Use in the form of the palmitic acid 10 ester, of the glucosides or phosphates can be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols can likewise be preferred. Vitamin E (tocopherols, in particular a-tocopherol). 15 Tocopherol and its derivatives, among which come, in particular, the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.05-1% by weight, 20 based on the total composition. Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is customarily understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid. 25 Vitamin H. Vitamin H is described as the compound (3aS,4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] -imidazole-4 valeric acid, for which, however, meanwhile the trivial name biotin has gained acceptance. Biotin is contained 30 in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention 35 contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from the groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 24 - PCT/EP2005/001927 pyridoxine and its derivatives, and nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the action 5 of the compositions according to the invention can be further increased by fatty substances (D). Fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and natural and synthetic waxes, which can be present both in solid form and liquid form in 10 aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. As fatty acids (D1), linear and/or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 - 30 carbon 15 atoms can be employed. Fatty acids having 10 - 22 carbon atoms are preferred. Among these, mention should be made, for example, of the isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersolo 871 and Emersolo 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product 20 Edenor' IP 95, and/or further fatty acids marketed under the trade names Edenor" (Cognis) . Other typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2 ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, 25 palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, 30 during the pressure cracking of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Customarily, the fatty acid cuts which are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are 35 particularly preferred; as a rule, the use of stearic acid in particular is preferred.

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 25 - PCT/EP2005/001927 The amount required here is 0.1 - 15% by weight, based on the total composition. The amount is preferably 0.5 - 10% by weight, where amounts of 1 - 5% by weight can be very particularly advantageous. 5 Fatty alcohols (D2) which can be employed are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having C 6 - C 30 , preferably Cio - C 2 2 and very particularly preferably C 1 2 - C 2 2 carbon 10 atoms. Within the meaning of the invention, decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, 15 myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caproyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and their Guerbet alcohols, for example, can be employed, this list being intended to have exemplary and nonlimiting character. The fatty 20 alcohols originate, however, from preferably naturally fatty acids, it customarily being possible to start from preparation of the esters of the fatty acids by reduction. According to the invention, those fatty alcohol cuts can likewise be employed which are 25 produced by reduction of naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, beet oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters resulting from their transesterification products with appropriate 30 alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are purchasable, for example, under the names Stenol", e.g. Stenol' 1618 or Lanette", e.g. Lanette" 0 or Lorol", e.g. Lorol" C8, Lorol' C14, Lorol" C18, Lorol" C8-18, HD-Ocenol", 35 Crodacol", e.g. Crodacolo CS, Novol", Eutanol" G, Guerbitolo 16, Guerbitolo 18, Guerbitolf 20, Isofol' 12, Isofol' 16, Isofol" 24, Isofol' 36, Isocarb" 12, Isocarb' H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 26 - PCT/EP2005/001927 16 or Isocarb" 24. Of course, wool wax alcohols, such as are purchasable, for example, under the names Corona", White Swan", Coronet" or Fluilano, can also be employed according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are 5 employed in amounts from 0.1 - 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts from 0.1 20% by weight. Natural or synthetic waxes (D3) which can be employed 10 according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, ozocerite, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes from PE or PP. Waxes of this type are 15 obtainable, for example, through Kahl & Co., Trittau. The amount required is 0.1 - 50% by weight based on the total composition, preferably 0.1 - 20% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 - 15% by weight based on 20 the total composition. Among the natural and synthetic cosmetic oily substances (D4) which can increase the action of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the 25 invention can be counted, for example: - plant oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil,.rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheatgerm oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid fractions of coconut 30 oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid fractions of beef tallow and synthetic triglyceride oils. - liquid paraffin oils, isoparaff in oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers 35 having a total of from 12 to 36 C atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 27 - PCT/EP2005/001927 ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl 5 ether, diisopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, isopentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl n-octyl ether. The compounds 1, 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) cyclohexane (Cetiolo S) and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol* OE) obtainable as 10 commercial products may be preferred. Ester oils. Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C 6 - C 30 - fatty acids with C 2 - C 30 - fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 C atoms are 15 preferred. Examples of fatty acid components employed in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic 20 acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the pressure 25 cracking of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproyl alcohol, 30 capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl 35 alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadolenyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 28 - PCT/EP2005/001927 brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, which are obtained, for example, in the high pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from Roelen's 5 oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, isopropyl myristate (Rilanito IPM), C16-18-alkyl isononanoate (Cetiolf SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesofto 24), 2 10 ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol" 868), cetyl oleate, glyceryl tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprate/caprylate (Cetiol LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiolo J 600), isopropyl palmitate (Rilanit" IPP), oleyl oleate (Cetiol') , hexyl 15 laurate (Cetiolo A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiolo B), myristyl myristate (Cetiolo MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol SN) , decyl oleate (Cetiolo V) are particularly preferred. - dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl 20 adipate, di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di(2 ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acetate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di(2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol 25 diisostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate, - symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example 30 described in DE-A 197 56 454, glyceryl carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiolo CC) , - trifatty acid esters of saturated and/or unsaturated linear and/or branched fatty acids with glycerol, 35 - fatty acid partial glycerides which are monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. When using technical products small H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 29 - PCT/EP2005/001927 amounts of triglycerides can still be present due to production. The partial glycerides preferably comply with the formula (D4-I), 5 CH 2 0 (CH 2

CH

2 0) mR 1 101 CHO ( CH2CH20 ), n2 (D4 -1) CH20 ( CH2CH20 ) qR 3 10 in which R 1 , R 2 and R 3 independently of one another are hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms with the proviso 15 that at least one of these groups is an acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m+n+q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R 1 is an acyl radical and R 2 and R 3 are hydrogen and the 20 sum (m+n+q) is 0. Typical examples are mono and/or diglycerides based on caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, 25 isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides 30 are employed. The required amount of the natural and synthetic cosmetic oily substances in the compositions according to the invention is customarily 0.1 - 30% by weight, 35 based on the total composition, preferably 0.1 - 20% by weight, and in particular 0.1 - 15% by weight.

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 30 - PCT/EP2005/001927 The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is customarily 0.5 - 75% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts from 0.5 - 35% by weight are preferred 5 according to the invention. The use of surfactants (E) in the compositions according to the invention has proven particularly advantageous. In a further preferred embodiment, the 10 compositions according to the invention therefore contain surfactants. The term surfactants is understood according to the invention as meaning surface-active substances which form adsorption layers on surfaces and boundary surfaces or can aggregate in volume phases to 15 give micellar colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive 20 charge, cationic surfactants, which in addition to a hydrophobic radical have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution. 25 The cationic surfactants have already been described further above as a possible constituent a). Suitable anionic surfactants (El) in preparations 30 according to the invention are all anionic surface active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic 35 alkyl group having approximately 8 to 30 C atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups can also be H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 31 - PCT/EP2005/001927 present in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium salts and the mono-, di and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in 5 the alkanol group, - linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms (soaps), - ethercarboxylic acids of the formula R-O-(CH 2 CH 2 O) x-CH 2 -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group 10 having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, - acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, - acyltaurides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, 15 - acylisethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group, - sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters 20 having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms, - linear alpha-olefinsulfonates having 8 to 24 C atoms, 25 - alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms, - alkyl sulfates and alkylpolyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R-O(CH 2

-CH

2 0)x-OSO 3 H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C 30 atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12, - sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene glycol ethers and/or hydroxyalkylenepropylene glycol ethers, - sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds, 35 - esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are addition products of approximately 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 32 - PCT/EP2005/001927 and/or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms, - alkyl and/or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (El-I), 5 R (OCH 2

CH

2 ) n-O-P (O) (OX) -OR 2 (El-I) in which R 1 is preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 2 is 10 hydrogen, a radical (CH 2

CH

2 O)nR 2 or X, n is numbers from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal or NR 3 RRsR, with R3 to R" independently of one another being hydrogen or a C 1 to C 4 - hydrocarbon radical, 15 - sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (El-II),

R

7 CO(AlkO)nSO 3 M (El-II), in which R 7 CO- is a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 20 to 22 C atoms, Alk is CH 2

CH

2 , CHCH 3

CH

2 and/or

CH

2

CHCH

3 , n is numbers from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, - monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (El-III), 25

CH

2 0 (CH 2

CH

2 O) x-COR 8 CHO (CH 2

CH

2 0) yH (El-III) 30 CH 2 0 (CH 2

CH

2 0) zSO 3 X in which R 8 CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total are 0 or are numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 35 10, and X is an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable within the meaning of the H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 33 - PCT/EP2005/001927 invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow 5 fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of its sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (El-III) axe employed in which R 8 CO is a linear acyl radical 10 having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, - amidoethercarboxylic acids, - condensation products of C9 - C 30 - fatty alcohols with protein hydrolyzates and/or amino acids and their derivatives, which are known to the person 15 skilled in the art as protein fatty acid condensates, such as, for example, the Lamepono types, Gluadin" types, Hostapono KCG or the Amisoft types. 20 Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ethercarboxylic acids having 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the 25 alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, monoglyceryl disulfates, alkyl and alkenyl etherphosphates and protein fatty acid condensates. 30 Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are described as those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one COO (~ or -S03(-) group. Particularly suitable 35 zwitterionic surfactants are the "betaines" such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N- H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 34 - PCT/EP2005/001927 acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coconut acylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3 hydroxyethylimidazolines in each case having 8 to 18 C 5 atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and coconut acylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl glycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine. 10 Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are those surface-active compounds which other than a C 8 - C 24 - alkyl or acyl group in the molecule contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H group and are 15 capable of the formation of internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N 20 alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids in each case having approximately 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N coconut alkylaminopropionate, coconut acylaminoethyl 25 aminopropionate and C 12 - C 18 - acylsarcosine. Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group as a 30 hydrophilic group. Such compounds are, for example - addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and to 35 alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 35 - PCT/EP2005/001927 - methyl or C 2 - C6 - alkyl radical end group-closed addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms, to 5 fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, such as, for example, the types obtainable under the sales descriptions Dehydol LS, Dehydol LT (Cognis), 10 - C 1 2

-C

3 0 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide to glycerol, - addition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide to castor oil and hardened castor oil, 15 - polyol fatty acid esters, such as, for example, the commercial product Hydagen" HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis), - alkoxylated triglycerides, - alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula 20 (E4-I), R1CO- (OCH 2

CHR

2 ) WOR 3 (E4-I) in which R 1 CO is a linear or branched, saturated 25 and/or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R2 is hydrogen or methyl, R 3 is linear or branched alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is numbers from 1 to 20, - amine oxides, 30 - hydroxy mixed ethers, - sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide to sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates, - sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of 35 ethylene oxide to sugar fatty acid esters, - addition products of ethylene oxide to fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines, H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 36 - PCT/EP2005/001927 sugar surfactants of the type consisting of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides according to formula (E4-II), 5 R40-[Gp (E4-II) in which R 4 is an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is numbers from 1 to 10. 10 They can be obtained by the appropriate processes of preparative organic chemistry. The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably from glucose. The 15 preferred alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), i.e. the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and 20 is a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be an integer and can especially assume here the values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a specific alkyl oligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetical variable, 25 which is usually a fractional number. Preferably, alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides having a mean degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0 are employed. From the applicational point of view, those alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides are 30 preferred whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R 4 can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, 35 caproyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, such as are obtained, for example, in the H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 37 - PCT/EP2005/001927 hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the course of the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Alkyl oligoglucosides of chain length C 8

-C

1 o (DP = 1 to 5 3) are preferred, which are obtained as a forerun in the distillative separation of technical C 8

-C

18 coconut fatty alcohol and can be contaminated with a content of less than 6% by weight of C 12 -alcohol and alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C 91 11 10 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3) . The alkyl or alkenyl radical R1 5 can furthermore also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, 15 palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, 20 which can be obtained as described above. Alkyl oligoglucosides based on hardened C 12

-

1 4 -coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3 are preferred. sugar surfactants of the type consisting of the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides, a 25 nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III),

R

5

CO-NR

6 - [Z] (E4-III) in which R 5 CO is an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 30 to 22 carbon atoms, R 6 is hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups. The fatty acid N 35 alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances, which are customarily obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 38 - PCT/EP2005/001927 alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are 5 derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, such as are represented by the formula (E4-IV): 10

R

7 CO-NR 8

-CH

2

-(CHOH)

4

-CH

2 OH (E4-IV). Preferably, the fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxy alkylamides employed are glucamides of the formula 15 (E4-IV), in which R 8 is hydrogen or an alkyl group and R 7 CO is the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, 20 petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) are particularly preferred, which are obtained by 25 reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C12/14-coconut fatty acid or an appropriate derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkyl amides can also be derived from maltose and 30 palatinose. Preferred nonionic surfactants have proven to be the alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids in each case having 2 to 35 30 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations having outstanding properties H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 39 - PCT/EP2005/001927 are likewise obtained if they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants. These compounds are characterized by the following 5 parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be either linear or branched. Primary linear aliphatic radicals and aliphatic radicals which are methyl-branched in the 2 position are preferred. Such alkyl radicals are, for example, 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 10 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. 1-Octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl are particularly preferred. When using "oxo alcohols" compounds having an uneven number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain predominate. 15 Furthermore, very particularly preferred nonionic surfactants are the sugar surfactants. These can be present in the compositions used according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.1 - 20% by 20 weight, based on the total composition. Amounts from 0.5 - 15% by weight are preferred, and amounts from 0.5 - 7.5% by weight are very particularly preferred. In the compounds having alkyl groups employed as 25 surfactants, these can in each case be homogeneous substances. As a rule, however, it is preferred in the preparation of these substances to start from native plants or animal raw materials, such that substance mixtures having different alkyl chain lengths dependent 30 on the respective raw material are obtained. In the case of the surfactants which are addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide to fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition 35 products, both products having a "normal" homolog distribution and those having a concentrated homolog distribution can be used. "Normal" homolog distribution H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 40 - PCT/EP2005/001927 is understood here as meaning mixtures of homologs which are obtained in the reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alkoxides as catalysts. 5 Concentrated homolog distributions are obtained, on the other hand, if, for example, hydrotalcite, alkaline earth metal salts of ethercarboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alkoxides are used as catalysts. The use of products having a concentrated 10 homolog distribution can be preferred. The surfactants (E) are employed in amounts from 0.1 45% by weight, preferably 0.5 - 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 - 25% by weight, based 15 on the total composition used according to the invention. Anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and/or amphoteric surfactants and their mixtures are to be preferred 20 according to the invention. In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention can contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers cause the formation of water- or oil-stable 25 adsorption layers on the phase boundary, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. As surfactants, emulsifiers are therefore constructed from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic moiety. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably 30 form O/W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W/o emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like dispersion of a liquid in another liquid with expenditure of energy for the creation of stabilizing phase boundaries by means 35 of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends here on the substances to be dispersed and the particular external H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 41 - PCT/EP2005/001927 phase and the finely -divided nature of the emulsion. Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example, - addition products of 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide 5 and/or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 C atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, - C 1 2

-C

2 2 -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition 10 products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide to polyols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol, - ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid 15 alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, - C 8

-C

22 -alkylmono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, degrees of oligomerization of 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as a sugar component being preferred, 20 - mixtures of alkyl (oligo)glucosides and fatty alcohols, for example the commercially obtainable product Montanov068, - addition products of 5 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide to castor oil and hardened castor oil, 25 - partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms, - sterols. Sterols are understood as meaning a group of steroids which carry a hydroxyl group on C atom 3 of the steroid structure and are isolated both 30 from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from plant fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Sterols, the "micosterols", are also 35 isolated from fungi and yeasts. - phospholipids. These are especially understood as meaning the glucose phospolipids, which are H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 42 - PCT/EP2005/001927 obtained, for example, as lecithins or phosphatidylcholines from, for example, egg yolks or plant seeds (e.g. soybeans). - fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, 5 such as sorbitol, - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as, for example, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxy stearate (commercial product Dehymulso PGPH), - linear and branched fatty acids having 8 to 30 C 10 atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts. The compositions according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts from 0.1 - 25% by 15 weight, in particular 0.5 - 15% by weight, based on the total composition. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention can contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an 20 HLB of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB of 10 - 15 are to be particularly preferred according to the invention. It has furthermore been shown to be advantageous if 25 polymers (G) are contained in the compositions according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, polymers are therefore added to the compositions used according to the invention, both cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers having proven 30 effective. Cationic polymers have already been described further above as a possibility for constituent a). 35 The anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers which contain carboxylate and/or sulfonate groups. Examples of anionic monomers, of which polymers of this type can H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 43 - PCT/EP2005/001927 consist, are acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propanesulfonic acid. Here, the acidic groups can be completely or partially present as the sodium, 5 potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Anionic polymers have proven very particularly 10 effective which, as the sole monomer or comonomer, contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, where the sulfonic acid group can be completely or partially present as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. 15 The homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which is commercially obtainable, for example, under the name Rheothikoll-80, is particularly preferred. 20 Within this embodiment, it can be preferred to employ copolymers consisting of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With respect to the anionic monomer, reference is made to the substances 25 listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidinone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid 30 acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 35 the sulfonic acid group being completely or partially present as the sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. This copolymer can also be H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 44 - PCT/EP2005/001927 present in crosslinked form, the crosslinking agents used preferably being polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide. Such a 5 polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C 13

-C

1 4 -isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proven particularly 10 advantageous in the context of the teaching according to the invention. The sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers marketed under the name Simulgel'600 as a compound containing 15 isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 have also proven as particularly effective according to the invention. Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Here, 20 allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, of sucrose and of propylene can be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are commercially obtainable, for example, under the trademark Carbopol". 25 Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, in particular those with crosslinkages, are also color retaining polymers. A maleic acid-methyl vinyl ether copolymer crosslinked with 1,9-decadiene is commercially obtainable under the name StabilezeO QM. 30 Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers for increasing the action of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention. Under the term amphoteric polymers are classified both 35 those polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO 3 H groups in the molecule and are capable of the formation of internal salts, and H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 45 - PCT/EP2005/001927 zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups and -COO~ or -S0 3 ~ groups in the molecule, and those polymers which contain -COOH or S03H groups and quaternary ammonium groups. 5 An example of an amphopolymer which can be employed according to the invention is the acrylic resin obtainable under the name Amphomer", which is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N 10 (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and their simple esters. Preferably employed amphoteric polymers are those 15 polymers which are essentially composed of (a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I),

R'-CH=CR

2 -CO-Z- (CnH 2 n) -N()R 3

R

4 Rs A ~ (G3-I) 20 in which R 1 and R 2 independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R 3 , R 4 and R 5 independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, 25 n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II), 30 R 6

-CH=CR

7 -COOH (G3-II) in which R 6 and R 7 independently of one another are hydrogen or methyl groups. 35 These compounds can be employed according to the invention both directly and in salt form, which is H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 46 - PCT/EP2005/001927 obtained by neutralization of the polymer, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide. Those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are employed in which R 3 , R 4 and R5 are methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A" is a 5 halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate ion are very particularly preferred; acrylamidopropyltrimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). The monomer (b) used for the polymers mentioned is preferably acrylic acid. 10 In a further embodiment, the compositions according to the invention can contain nonionic polymers (G4). Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example: 15 - vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl ester copolymers, such as are marketed, for example, under the trademark Luviskol" (BASF) . Luviskol" VA 64 and Luviskol VA 73, in each case vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, are likewise preferred nonionic 20 polymers. - cellulose ethers, such as hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, such as are marketed, for example, under the trademarks Culminal" and Benecel' 25 (AQUALON) and Natrosolo types (Hercules) . - starch and its derivatives, in particular starch ethers, for example Structureo XL (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch; - shellac 30 - polyvinylpyrrolidones, such as are marketed, for example, under the name Luviskolo (BASF), - Siloxanes. These siloxanes can be either water soluble or water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile 35 siloxanes being understood as being those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 0 C under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 47 - PCT/EP2005/001927 polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylaryisiloxanes, such as for example polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkyl 5 siloxanes which contain amine and/or hydroxyl groups. - glycosidically substituted silicones. It is also possible according to the invention for the 10 preparations used to contain a number of, in particular two, different polymers of identical charge and/or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and/or nonionic polymer. 15 The polymers (G) are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts from 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight, are particularly preferred. 20 Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention a composition according to the invention can also contain UV filters (I) . The UV filters to be used according to the invention are subject to no general 25 restrictions with respect to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters employable in the the cosmetic field are suitable whose absorption maximum is in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. LV 30 filters having an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred. The UV filters used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from substituted benzophenones, 35 p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, cinnamic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 48 - PCT/EP2005/001927 Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N,N,N-trimethyl 4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl)aniline methylsulfate, 5 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalate), 2 hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (benzophenone-3; UvinulOM 40, Uvasorb'MET, Neo HeliopanOBB, Eusolex 4360) , 2 phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts (phenylbenzimidazole 10 sulfonic acid; ParsolOHS; Neo HeliopanoHydro) , 3,3' (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicy clo[2.2.l]hept-1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane; 15 Parsol'1789, Eusolex9020) , a- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4 aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; UvinulOP 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyldimethyl PABA; Uvasorb'DMO, Escalol'507, 20 Eusolex'6007), salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl salicylate; Escalol"587, Neo Heliopan OS, Uvinul'O18), 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isoamyl p methoxycinnamate; Neo HeliopanElOOO) 4-methoxy cinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octyl methoxy 25 cinnamate; ParsolMCX, Escalol®557, Neo Heliopan"AV) , 2 hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (benzophenone-4; UvinulOMS 40; UvasorbOS 5), 3- (4' -methylbenzylidene) -D,L-camphor (4-methylbenzyl idene camphor; Parsol®5000, Eusolex 6300) , 3 30 benzylidenecamphor, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5 triazine, 3-imidazol-4-ylacrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3 ylidenemethyl]benzyl}acrylamide, 2,4-dihydroxybenzo 35 phenone (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb'20 H, Uvinul'400), 1,1'-diphenylacrylonitrile acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene; Eusolex"OCR, Neo HeliopanDType 303, H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 49 - PCT/EP2005/001927 Uvinul'N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl anthranilate; Neo HeliopanOMA), 2,2',4,4' tetrahydroxybenzophenone (benzophenone-2; UvinulOD-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone (benzophen 5 one-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5 sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. 4-aminobenzoic acid, N,N,N trimethyl-4-(2-oxoborn-3-ylidenmethyl)aniline methyl sulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, 2 10 hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5 sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3'-(1,4-phenylenedimethyl ene)-bis(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo[2.2.l]hept-l-ylme thanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1-(4-tert-butyl 15 phenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, a-(2-oxo born-3-yl-idene)toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic 20 acid isopentyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5 sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3-(4' methylbenzylidene)-D,L-camphor, 3-benzylidenecamphor, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino-(p 25 carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxy)-1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol 4-ylacrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N-{(2 and 4)-[2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl]benzyl}acrylamide are preferred. According to the invention, 2-hydroxy-4 methoxy-benzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic 30 acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4' -methylbenzylidene) -D,L-camphor are very particularly preferred. 35 H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 50 - PCT/EP2005/001927 Those UV filters are preferred whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum is above 15 000, in particular above 20 000. 5 It has furthermore been found that with structurally similar UV filters in many cases the water-insoluble compound in the context of the teaching according to the invention has the higher action against those water-soluble compounds which differ from it by one or 10 more additional ionic groups. Water-soluble in the context of the invention is to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 0 C to not more than 1% by weight, in particular to not more than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, these compounds should be 15 soluble in customary cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular to at least 1, % by weight. The use of water-insoluble UV filters is therefore to be preferred according to the invention. 20 According to a further embodiment of the invention, those UV filters are preferred which contain a cationic group, in particular a quaternary ammonium group. 25 These UV filters have the general structure U - Q. The structural moiety U here is a group which absorbs UV rays. This group can in principle be derived from the known UV filters mentioned above which can be 30 employed in the cosmetic field, in which a group, as a rule a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter is replaced by a cationic group Q, in particular having a quaternary amino function. Compounds from which the structural moiety U can be 35 derived are, for example, - substituted benzophenones, - p-aminobenzoic acid esters, H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 51 - PCT/EP2005/001927 - diphenylacrylic acid esters, - cinnamic acid esters, - salicylic acid esters, - benzimidazoles and 5 - o-aminobenzoic acid esters. Structural moieties U which are derived from cinnamic acid amide or from N,N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention. 10 The structural moieties U can in. principle be chosen such that the absorption maximum of the UV filter can either be in the UVA (315-400 nm) range, or in the UVB (280-315 nm) range or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV 15 filters having an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from approximately 280 to approximately 300 nm, are particularly preferred. Furthermore, the structural moiety U, also in 20 dependence on structural moiety Q, is preferably chosen such that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum is above 15 000, in particular above 20 000. 25 As a cationic group, the structural moiety Q preferably contains a quaternary ammonium group. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural moiety U, such that the structural moiety U is one of the four substituents of the 30 positively charged nitrogen atom. Preferably, however, one of the four substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which functions as a link between the structural moiety U and the positively 35 charged nitrogen atom.

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 52 - PCT/EP2005/001927 Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH 2 )x-N*R 1

R

2

R

3 X~, in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R and R 2 independently of one another are C 1 4 -alkyl groups, R 3 is a C 1

-

2 2 -alkyl group or a benzyl group and X~ 5 is a physiologically tolerable anion. In the context of this general structure, x is preferably the number 3, R 1 and R 2 in each case are a methyl group and R 3 is either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in 10 particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms. Physiologically tolerable anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and 15 phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate. Two preferred UV filters having cationic groups are the compounds cinnamic acid amidopropyltrimethylammonium 20 chloride (Incroquat" UV-283) and dodecyldimethylamino benzamidopropyldimethylammonium tosylate (Escalolo HP 610), which are obtainable as commercial products. Of course, the teaching according to the invention also 25 includes the use of a combination of a number of UV filters. In the context of this embodiment, the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least one UV filter having a cationic group is preferred. 30 The UV filters (I) are contained in the compositions used according to the invention customarily in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total composition. Amounts of 0.4-2.5% by weight are preferred. 35 The compositions according to the invention can furthermore contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 53 - PCT/EP2005/001927 and its derivatives (J). The sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts are preferred, in which the ammonium ion carries one to three Ci- to C 4 alkyl groups in addition to hydrogen. The sodium salt 5 is very particularly preferred. The amounts employed in the compositions according to the invention are preferably 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5, and in particular 0.1 to 3, % by weight. 10 Finally, the compositions according to the invention can also contain plant extracts (L). Customarily, these extracts are prepared by extraction 15 of the entire plant. However, in individual cases it can also be preferable to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and/or leaves of the plant. With respect to the plant extracts which can be used 20 according to the invention, reference is in particular made to the extracts which are mentioned in the table beginning on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the Leitfaden zur Inhaltsstoffdeklaration kosmetischer Mittel [Guide for the Contents Declaration of Cosmetic 25 Compositions], published by the Industrieverband K6rperpflege- and Waschmittel e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt. According to the invention, especially the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, 30 hops, henna, camomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossom, almond, aloe vera, pine needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi fruit, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, lady's 35 smock, thyme, yarrow, melissa, spiny restharrow, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root are preferred.

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 54 - PCT/EP2005/001927 The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, camomile, burdock root, horsetail, linden blossom, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, 5 apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi fruit, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, lady's smock, thyme, yarrow, spiny restharrow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root are particularly preferred. 10 The extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, coconut, mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi fruit and melon are very particularly suitable for the use according to the invention. 15 Extracting agents which can be used for the preparation of the plant extracts mentioned are water, alcohols and their mixtures. Among the alcohols, here lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but in particular polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and 20 propylene glycol, both as a sole extracting agent and as a mixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water/propylene glycol in the ratio 1:10 to 10:1 have proven particularly suitable. 25 The plant extracts can be employed according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are employed in diluted form, they customarily contain about 2 - 80% by weight of active substance and, as a solvent, the extracting agent or extracting agent 30 mixture employed in their obtainment. Furthermore, it is to be preferred to employ mixtures of a number of, in particular of two, different plant extracts in the compositions according to the 35 invention.

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 55 - PCT/EP2005/001927 In addition, it can prove advantageous if penetration aids and/or swelling agents (M) are present in the compositions according to the invention. To be included here are, for example, urea and urea derivatives, 5 guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example 10 propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogencarbonates, diols and triols, and in particular 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as, for example, 1,2 propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2 dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5 15 pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol. Advantageously, within the meaning of the invention short-chain carboxylic acids (N) can additionally assist the active ingredient complex (A) . Short-chain 20 carboxylic acids and their derivatives within the meaning of the invention are understood as meaning carboxylic acids which can be saturated or unsaturated and/or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and/or aromatic and/or heterocyclic and have a molecular 25 weight of less than 750. Saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of 1 up to 16 C atoms in the chain can be preferred within the meaning of the invention, those having a chain length of 1 up to 12 C atoms in the 30 chain are very particularly preferred. The short-chain carboxylic acids within the meaning of the invention can contain one, two, three or more carboxyl groups. Within the meaning of the invention, 35 carboxylic acids having a number of carboxyl groups are preferred, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The carboxyl groups can be present completely or H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 56 - PCT/EP2005/001927 partially as an ester, acid anhydride, lactone, amide, imidic acid, lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonate ester or 5 phosphate ester. The carboxylic acids according to the invention can, of course, be substituted along the carbon chain or the ring structure. To be included among the substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention are, for example, C1-C8 10 alkyl, C2-C8-alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkyl, C2-C8 hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, C2-C8-aminoalkyl, cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxyl, mercapto, amino, carboxyl or imino groups. Preferred substituents are 15 Cl-C8-alkyl, hydroxymethyl, hydroxyl, amino and carboxyl groups. Substituents in the O position are particularly preferred. Very particularly preferred substituents are 20 hydroxyl, alkoxy and amino groups, where the amino function can optionally be further substituted by alkyl, aryl, aralkyl and/or alkenyl radicals. Furthermore, the phosphonate and phosphate esters are likewise preferred carboxylic acid derivatives. 25 Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention which may be mentioned are formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, 30 malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid, elaidic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, muconic acid, citraconic 35 acid, mesaconic acid, camphoric acid, benzoic acid, o,m,p-phthalic acid, naphthoic acid, toluic acid, hydratropic acid, atropic acid, cinnamic acid, H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 57 - PCT/EP2005/001927 isonicotinic acid, nicotinic acid, bicarbamic acid, 4,4'-dicyano-6,6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrole carboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalenepentaacetic acid, 5 malonaldehydic acid, 4-hydroxyphthalamic acid, 1 pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propanetricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid selected from the group which is formed by compounds of the general formula (N-I), 10 Z (CnH2n)-COOH X Y (N-1) in which Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group 15 and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (N-I), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids which formally result from the dicarboxylic acids as shown in 20 formula (N-I) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring. Dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) are known in the literature. 25 The dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) can be prepared, for example, by reaction of polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated monocarboxylic acids in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. 30 Customarily, the reaction will be carried out starting from a polyunsaturated fatty acid as a dicarboxylic acid component. Linoleic acid accessible from natural fats and oils is preferred. A preferred monocarboxylic acid component is in particular acrylic acid, but is H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 58 - PCT/EP2005/001927 also, for example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid. Customarily, in reactions according to Diels-Alder isomer mixtures result in which one component is present in excess. These isomer mixtures can be 5 employed according to the invention just like the pure compounds. According to the invention, in addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids as shown in formula (N-I), 10 also those dicarboxylic acids which differ from the compounds as shown in formula (N-I) by 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or are formed from these compounds formally by addition of one molecule of water to the double bond of the cyclohexene 15 ring can be employed. The dicarboxylic acid (mixture) which results by reaction of linoleic acid with acrylic acid has proven to be particularly active according to the invention. 20 This is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2 cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially obtainable under the names Westvaco Diacido 1550 and Westvaco Diacid' 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco). 25 In addition to the short-chain carboxylic acids themselves according to the invention mentioned by way of example beforehand, their physiologically tolerable salts can also be employed according to the invention. Examples of such salts are the alkali metal, alkaline 30 earth metal, zinc salts and ammonium salts, among which are to be understood in the context of the present application also the mono-, di- and trimethyl-, -ethyl and -hydroxyethylammonium salts. Very particularly preferably, in the context of the invention, however, 35 with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as for example arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, neutralized acids can be employed. Furthermore, for formulation H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 59 - PCT/EP2005/001927 reasons it can be preferred to select the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts. 5 Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to employ hydroxycarboxylic acids and here in turn in particular the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids and the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxy- di-, tri- and 10 polycarboxylic acids together with the active ingredient (A). It has been shown here that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids also the hydroxy carboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxy carboxylic acids and their esters and polymeric 15 hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid 20 esters are esters of p-hydroxypropionic acid, of tartronic acid, of D-gluconic acid, of saccharic acid, of mucic acid or of glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, for 25 instance fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15-fatty alcohols are particularly preferred here. Esters of this type are commercially obtainable, e.g. under the trademark Cosmacol' of EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred 30 polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polytartaric acid and their esters. The compositions according to the invention can additionally contain protein hydrolyzates and their 35 derivatives (P). Protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures which are obtained by acidically, basically or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins. The H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 60 - PCT/EP2005/001927 term protein hydrolyzates is understood according to the invention as also meaning total hydrolyzates and individual amino acids and their derivatives and mixtures of various amino acids. Furthermore, polymers 5 synthesized according to the invention from amino acids and amino acid derivatives are understood under the term protein hydrolyzates. Among the latter are to be included, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine etc. Further examples of compounds which can 10 be employed according to the invention are L-alanyl-L proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D/L methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, also P-amino acids and their derivatives such as P-alanine, anthranilic acid or hippuric acid can be employed 15 according to the invention. The molecular weight of the protein hydrolyzates which can be employed according to the invention is between 75, the molecular weight of glycine, and 200 000; the molecular weight is preferably 75 to 50 000 and very particularly 20 preferably 75 to 20 000 daltons. According to the invention, protein hydrolyzates of both plant and animal or marine or synthetic origin can be employed. 25 Animal protein hydrolyzates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin and lactoprotein protein hydrolyzates, which can also be present in the form of salts. Such products are marketed, for example, under 30 the trademarks Dehylan" (Cognis), Promoiso (Interorgana) , Collapurono (Cognis) , Nutrilano (Cognis) , Gelita-Sol (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co) , Lexein" (Inolex) and Kerasol' (Croda). 35 According to the invention, the use of protein hydrolyzates of plant origin, e.g. soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolyzates is H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 61 - PCT/EP2005/001927 preferred. Such products are obtainable, for example under the trademarks Gluadino (Cognis), DiaMin" (Diamalt), Lexein" (Inolex), Hydrosoyo (Croda), Hydrolupin' (Croda) , Hydrosesameo (Croda) , Hydrotritiumo 5 (Croda) and Croteino (Croda). Even if the use of the protein hydrolyzates as such is preferred, if appropriate amino acid mixtures also obtained in another way can be employed in their place. 10 Likewise possible is the use of derivatives of the protein hydrolyzates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed, for example, under the names Lamepon" (Cognis), Lexein" (Inolex), Crolastin" (Croda) or 15 Crotein" (Croda). Of course, the teaching according to the invention comprises all isomeric forms, such as cis - trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral isomers. 20 According to the invention, it is also possible to employ a mixture of a number of protein hydrolyzates (P). 25 The protein hydrolyzates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations from 0.01% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in amounts from 0.05% by weight up to 5% by weight. 30 The compositions according to the invention can be manufactured as shampoos, conditioners, hair sprays etc., where the composition can be formulated in dry, liquid or sprayable form. For applications in which the 35 hair is to be colored or tinted at the same time or later, the composition can also be formulated as a hair dye or hair tint.

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 62 - PCT/EP2005/001927 With respect to the manner according to which the active ingredient complex according to the invention is applied to the keratinic fibers, in particular human 5 hair, no restrictions exist in principle. Suitable formulations of these preparations are, for example, creams, lotions, solutions, water, emulsions such as W/O, O1W, PIT emulsions (emulsions according to phase inversion teaching, called PIT), microemulsions and 10 multiple emulsions, gels, sprays, aerosols and foam aerosols. The pH of these preparations can in principle be from 2-11. It is preferably between 5 and 11, values from 6 to 10 being particularly preferred. For the adjustment of this pH, virtually any acid or base which 15 can be used for cosmetic purposes can be used. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N,N,N',N' tetrakis- (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine. 20 Preparations remaining on the hair have proven effective and can therefore be preferred embodiments of the teaching according to the invention. Remaining on the hair is understood according to the invention as meaning those preparations which are not rinsed out of 25 the hair again with the aid of water or an aqueous solution in the course of the treatment after a period of a few seconds up to one hour. On the contrary, the preparations remain on the hair until the next hair wash, i.e. as a rule more than 12 hours. 30 According to a second preferred embodiment, these preparations are formulated as a hair treatment or hair conditioner. After expiry of this application time, the preparations according to the invention as in this 35 embodiment can be rinsed out with water or an at least mainly water-containing composition; however, as mentioned above, they can be left on the hair. It can H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 63 - PCT/EP2005/001927 be preferred here to apply the preparation according to the invention before the application of a cleansing composition, of a waving composition or other hair treatment compositions to be applied to the hair. In 5 this case, the preparation according to the invention serves as a structural protection for the subsequent applications. According to further preferred embodiments, the 10 compositions according to the invention, however, for example, can also be cleansing compositions such as shampoos, care compositions such as rinses, setting compositions such as setting lotions, setting foams, styling gels and hairdryer waves, permanent shaping 15 compositions such as permanent wave compositions and fixing agents and in particular pretreatment agents or subsequent rinses employed in the course of a permanent wave process or dyeing process. 20 In addition to the mandatory active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention and the further, abovementioned preferred components, these preparations can in principle contain all further components known to the person skilled in the art for such cosmetic 25 compositions. Further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example, - nonionic polymers such as, for example, 30 vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes, - thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, carob bean 35 flour, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. methylcellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 64 - PCT/EP2005/001927 fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such as, for example, bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such as, for example, polyvinyl 5 alcohol, - hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils, - perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclo 10 dextrins, - solvents and solubilizers such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol and diethylene glycol, - symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched 15 dialkyl ethers having a total of between 12 and 36 C atoms, in particular 12 to 24 C atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether and di-n dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n 20 decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, diisopentyl ether, di-3 ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methylpentyl n-octyl 25 ether, - fatty alcohols, in particular linear and/or saturated fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 C atoms, - monoesters of C8 to C30 - fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 C atoms, 30 - fiber structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, levulose and lactose, - conditioning active ingredients such as paraffin 35 oils, plant oils, e.g. sunflower oil, orange oil, almond oil, wheatgerm oil and peach kernel oil and H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 65 - PCT/EP2005/001927 - phospholipids, for example soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, - quaternized amines such as methyl-l-alkylamido ethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate, 5 - antifoams such as silicones, - colorants for the coloring of the composition, - antidandruff active ingredients such as piroctone olamine, zinc omadine and climbazole, - active ingredients such as allantoin and 10 bisabolol, - cholesterol, - consistency-imparting agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers, - fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan 15 wax and paraffins, - fatty acid alkanolamides, - complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, P-alanine diacetic acid and phosphonic acids, - swelling materials and penetrating materials such 20 as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, - opacifiers such as latex, styrene/PVP and styrene/ acrylamide copolymers - pearl luster agents such as ethylene glycol mono and distearate and PEG-3 distearate, 25 - pigments, - reductants such as, for example, thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and a-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid, - propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N 2 0, 30 dimethyl ether, CO 2 and air, - antioxidants. In a further embodiment of the teaching according to the invention it can be preferred to incorporate the 35 active ingredient complex (A) directly into colorants or tinting compositions, that is to employ the active H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 66 - PCT/EP2005/001927 ingredient complex (A) according to the invention in combination with colorants and/or colorant precursors. As such, oxidation colorant precursors of the developer 5 type (B1) and coupler type (B2), natural and synthetic direct colorants (C) and precursors of naturally analogous colorants, such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of representatives of one or more of these groups can be employed. 10 As oxidation colorant precursors of the developer type (Bl), customarily primary aromatic amines having a further free or substituted hydroxyl or amino group situated in the para or ortho position, diaminopyridine 15 derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives are employed. Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluylene diamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1-(2'-hydroxy 20 ethyl)-2,5-diaminobenzene, N,N-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p phenylendiamine, 2-(2,5-diaminophenoxy)ethanol, 4 amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2 hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-tri aminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 25 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy methylamino-4-aminophenol, bis(4-aminophenyl)amine, 4 amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2 hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2-((diethylamino) methyl)phenol, bis(2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl)methane, 30 1,4-bis(4-aminophenyl)diazacycloheptane, 1,3-bis(N-(2 hydroxyethyl)-N-(4-aminophenylamino))-2-propanol, 4 amino-2-(2-hydroxyethoxy)phenol, 1,10-bis(2,5-diamino phenyl)-1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives according to EP 0 740 741 or WO 94/08970 35 such as, for example, 4,5-diamino-1-(2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluylenediamine, H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 67 - PCT/EP2005/001927 p-aminophenol, 1-(2'-hydroxyethyl)-2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triamino pyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine. 5 As oxidation colorant precursors of the coupler type (B2), as a rule m-phenylendiamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are used. 10 Examples of such coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as, for example, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5-(3-hydroxypropylamino)-2 methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2 hydroxy-4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-amino 15 phenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2 methylphenol, 5-(2'-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-(diethylamino)phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1, 3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3-(ethylamino)-4 20 methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-amino phenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as, for example, 2,4-diaminophenoxy ethanol, 1, 3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 1-methoxy 2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzene, 1,3-bis(2,4 25 diaminophenyl)propane, 2,6-bis(2-hydroxyethylamino)-1 methylbenzene and 1-amino-3-bis(2'-hydroxyethyl)amino benzene, o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as, for example, 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-l methylbenzene, di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives 30 such as, for example resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5 dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, pyridine derivatives such as, for example, 2,6 35 dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino 5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6 methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 68 - PCT/EP2005/001927 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6 dimethoxypyridine, naphthalene derivatives such as, for example, 1 5 naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-l naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxy naphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxy naphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxy naphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene, morpholine 10 derivatives such as, for example, 6-hydroxybenzo morpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine, quinoxaline derivatives such as, for example, 6-methyl-1,2,3,4 tetrahydroquinoxaline, pyrazole derivatives such as, for example, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, indole 15 derivatives such as, for example, 4-hydroxyindole, 6 hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, methylenedioxy benzene derivatives such as, for example, 1-hydroxy 3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxy benzene and 1- (2' -hydroxyethyl) amino-3, 4-methylene 20 dioxybenzene. Particularly suitable coupler components are 1 naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3 aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxy 25 pyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6 methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methyl resorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy 3,4 -dimethylpyridine. 30 Direct colorants are customarily nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo colorants, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable direct colorants are the compounds known under the international descriptions or trade names HC Yellow 35 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 69 - PCT/EP2005/001927 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 and 1,4-bis(B-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2 nitro-diphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro 5 1,2,3, 4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2 nitrotoluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4 nitrophenol, 4-ethyl-amino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2 chloro-6-ethylamino-l-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene. 10 Direct colorants occurring in nature are, for example, henna red, henna neutral, camomile blossom, sandalwood, black tea, alder buckthorn bark, sage, logwood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alkanet root. 15 It is not necessary for the oxidation colorant precursors or the direct colorants in each case to be homogeneous compounds. On the contrary, due to the preparation processes for the individual colorants, further components can also be present in minor amounts 20 in the hair dyes according to the invention, if this does not disadvantageously influence the dyeing result or have to be excluded for other reasons, e.g. toxicological reasons. 25 Precursors of naturally analogous colorants used are, for example, indoles and indolines and their physiologically tolerable salts. Preferably, those indoles and indolines are employed which contain at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a 30 substituent on the six-membered ring. These groups can carry further substituents, e.g. in the form of an etherification or esterification of the hydroxyl group or an alkylation of the amino group. 5,6-Dihydroxy indoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6 35 dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N butyl-5, 6-dihydroxyindoline, 5, 6-dihydroxyindoline-2 carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 70 - PCT/EP2005/001927 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6 dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5, 6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6 dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6 5 aminoindole and 4-aminoindole have particularly advantageous properties. Particularly to be emphasized within this group are N methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxy 10 indoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6 dihydroxyindoline and in particular 5,6-dihydroxy indoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6 dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular 5,6-dihydroxy 15 indole. The indoline and indole derivatives in the dyes are employed in the context of the process according to the invention both as free bases and in the form of their 20 physiologically tolerable salts with inorganic or organic acids, e.g. the hydrochlorides, the sulfates and hydrobromides. When using colorant precursors of the indoline or 25 indole type, it can be preferable to employ these together with at least one amino acid and/or at least one oligopeptide. Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular a-aminocarboxylic acids and o-aminocarboxylic acids. Among the a-amino 30 carboxylic acids, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine in turn are particularly preferred. A very particularly preferred amino acid is arginine, in particular in free form, but also as the hydrochloride. 35 Both the oxidation colorant precursors and the direct colorants and the precursors of naturally analogous colorants are present in the compositions according to H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 71 - PCT/EP2005/001927 the invention preferably in amounts from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition. 5 Hair dyes, in particular if the coloring is carried out oxidatively, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidants such as hydrogen peroxide, are customarily set to be weakly acidic to alkaline, i.e. to pHs in the range from approximately 5 to 11. For this purpose, the 10 dyes contain alkalizing agents, customarily alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2 methylpropanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2 15 amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. In particular, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methylpropanol and 2 amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are preferred in the 20 context of this group. The use of w-amino acids such as w-aminocaproic acid as alkalizing agents is also possible. If the formation of the actual hair colors takes place 25 in the the course of an oxidative process, customary oxidants, such as in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products to urea, melamine or sodium borate can be used. Oxidation with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant can, however, be preferred. 30 Furthermore, it is possible to carry out the oxidation with the aid of enzymes, the enzymes being employed both for the generation of oxidizing percompounds and for increasing the action of a small amount of oxidants present, or alternatively enzymes being used to 35 transfer the electrons from suitable developer components (reductants) to atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase but H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 72 - PCT/EP2005/001927 also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase are preferred here. Furthermore, the procedure may be mentioned of increasing the action of small amounts (e.g. 1% and less, based on the total composition) of 5 hydrogen peroxide by peroxidases. Expediently, the oxidant preparation is then mixed with the preparation containing the colorant precursors immediately before the dyeing of the hair. The ready 10 to-use hair color preparation resulting here should preferably have a pH in the range from 6 to 10. The application of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium is particularly preferred. The application temperatures can lie in a range between 15 and 400C, preferably at 15 the temperature of the scalp. After an application time of about 5 to 45, in particular 15 to 30, minutes, the hair colorant is removed from the hair to be colored by rinsing out. Rewashing with a shampoo is unnecessary if a strongly surfactant-containing carrier, e.g. a dyeing 20 shampoo, was used. In particular in the case of hair which is difficult to color, the preparation can be applied to the hair with the colorant precursors without prior mixing with the 25 oxidation component. After an application time of 20 to 30 minutes - optionally after an intermediate rinse the oxidation component is then applied. After a further application time of 10 to 20 minutes, the hair is then rinsed and, if desired, reshampooed. In this 30 embodiment, according to a first variant, in which the prior application of the colorant precursors is intended to cause a better penetration into the hair, the corresponding composition is adjusted to a pH of approximately 4 to 7. According to a second variant, an 35 air oxidation is first desired, the applied composition preferably having a pH from 7 to 10. In the subsequent accelerated reoxidation, the use of peroxydisulfate H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 73 - PCT/EP2005/001927 solutions adjusted to be acidic as oxidant can be preferred. Furthermore, the formation of the coloring can be 5 assisted and increased by adding certain metal ions to the composition. Such metal ions are, for example, Zn 2 + Cu2+ , Fe 2+, Fe 3, Mn 2+, Mn 4, Li+, Mg2+, Ca 2 + and A13+. Zn2+ Cu24 and Mn 2 ' are particularly suitable here. The metal ions can in principle be employed in the form of any 10 desired, physiologically tolerable salt. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By use of these metal salts, both the formation of the color can be accelerated and the color shade can be influenced specifically. 15 Independently of the nature of the composition as which the composition according to the invention is supplied to the consumer, compositions according to the invention are preferred which are characterized in that 20 they contain the aminated silicone in the form of a microemulsion having a drop size between 1 and 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 70 nm and in particular between 5 and 20 nm. 25 Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they are transparent or translucent. Further subjects of the present invention are the use 30 of a preparation according to the invention for the cleansing of skin and hair and the use of a preparation according to the invention for the restructuring of keratinic fibers, in particular human hairs. 35 A further subject of the present invention is a process for the treatment of skin or hair, in which a preparation according to the invention is applied to H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 74 - PCT/EP2005/001927 the skin and/or the hair, the preparation being rinsed out again after an application time of 0 to 45 minutes. Alternatively, the preparation can also be applied to 5 the skin and/or the hair and left there up to the next skin or hair wash. A further subject of the present invention is therefore a process for the treatment of skin or hair, in which a preparation according to the invention is applied to the skin and/or the hair and 10 left there up to the next wash. Preferred processes of the last-mentioned type are characterized in that the next wash takes place longer than 24 hours after the application of the preparation 15 according to the invention to the skin and/or the hair.

H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 75 - PCT/EP2005/001927 Examples: All quantitative data, if not noted otherwise, are parts by weight. 5 1. Hair treatment, rinse-off:

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1 8 -fatty alcohol 7.00 Eumulgino B2 1 0.03 10 Genamin" DSAC20 2 1.20 Laureth-4 0.075 Laureth-6 0.075 C12- 1 4 sec-Pareth-9 0.075 PEG-8 0.075 15 Dehyquart F 753 1.20 Amodimethicone 0.60 Glycol 0.15 20 Panthenol 0.5 Tocopheryl acetate 0.1 Methylparaben 0.20 Perfume 0.30 Phenoxyethanol 0.40 25 Water to 100 I cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (COGNIS) 30 2 dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT) 3 mixture of ester quat and fatty alcohol (INCI name Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS) H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 76 - PCT/EP2005/001927 2. Hair rinse, rinse-off:

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18 -fatty alcohol 5.00 Eumulgin B21 0.03 5 Genamin" DSAC20 2 1.20 Trideceth-10 0.19 Trideceth-5 0.11 Dehyquart F 753 1.20 10 Amodimethicone 0.48 Glycerol 0.135 Pantholactone 0.5 Methylparaben 0.20 15 Perfume 0.30 Phenoxyethanol 0.40 Water to 100 20 ' cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (COGNIS) 2 dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT) 3 mixture of ester quat and fatty alcohol (INCI name 25 Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS) 3. Spray treatment, rinse-off: 30 Cetyltrimethylammonium bromide 2.00 Amodimethicone 0.60 Glycol 0.15 Laureth-4 0.075 35 Laureth-6 0.075

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14 sec-Pareth-9 0.075 PEG-8 0.075 H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 77 - PCT/EP2005/001927 Cremophor CO-401 0.60 Panthenol 0.50 5 Methylparaben 0.20 Per fume 0. 30 Phenoxyethanol 0.40 Water to 100 10 1 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (COGNIS) 4. Spray treatment, leave-on: 15 Dehyquart F 751 1.50 Amodimethicone 0.48 Glycerol 0.135 Trideceth-10 0.19 20 Trideceth-5 0.11 Cremophor' CO-401 0.80 Sunflower oil 0.10 25 Niacinamide 0.10 Methylparaben 0.20 Perfume 0.30 Phenoxyethanol 0.40 30 Water to 100 mixture of ester quat and fatty alcohol (INCI name Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS) 35 H06313PCT/AU WO 2006/000258 - 78 - PCT/EP2005/001927 The products according to the invention are assessed to be consistently better in comparison tests compared to products which contain no polyols and compared to products which contain polyols outside the limits of 5 the invention. Compared to products which are free of QACs and/or amino-functional silicones, clear performance advantages are observed.

Claims (21)

1. A hair conditioner composition comprising a) at least one quaternary ammonium compound, b) at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (II) 5 (CH 3 ) 3 Si-[O-Si(CH 3 ) 2 ]n[OSi(CH 3 )]m-OSi(CH3)3 (II), CH

2 CH(CH 3 )CH 2 NH(CH 2 ) 2 NH 2 in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, where n preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and m preferably assumes values from I to io 2000, or that it contains an amino-functional silicone of the formula (III) R-[Si(CH 3 ) 2 -O]ni[Si(R)-O]m-[Si(CH 3 )2]n2-R (III), (CH 2 ) 3 NH(CH 2 ) 2 NH 2 is in which R is -OH, -O-CH 3 or a -CH 3 group and m, nl and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + nl + n2) is between 1 and 2000, where the sum (nl + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and m preferably assumes values from 1 to 2000, c) at least one polyhydroxy compound having at least 2 OH groups and d) at least polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV) 20 H(CH 2 )k(OCH 2 CH 2 )nOH (IV), in which k is a number between I and 18 and n is a number between 2 and 20 with particular preference for the values 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12 and 14. where the weight ratio of amino-functional silicones to polyhydroxy compounds [b) to c)] is 1:1 to 100:1. 25 2. The composition as claimed in claim I wherein, in the silicone of formula (II), the sum (m + n) is between 50 and 150.

3. The composition as claimed in claim 1 or claim 2 wherein, in the silicone of formula (II), n assumes values from 49 to 149.

4. The composition as claimed in any one of claims I to 3 wherein, in the 30 silicone of formula (II), m assumes values from I to 10.

5. The composition as claimed in any one of claims I to 4 wherein, in the silicone of formula III, the sum (m + nl + n2) assumes values between 50 and 150.

6. The composition as claimed in any one of claims I to 5, wherein, in the silicone of formula III, the sum (nl + n2) assumes values from 49 to 149. 80

7. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein, in the polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV), k is selected from the values 0, 10, 12, 16 and 18.

8. The composition as claimed in any one of claims I to 7, characterized in that, 5 based on the weight of the composition, it contains 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.75 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 1.0 to 5.0% by weight, of quaternary ammonium compound(s).

9. The composition as claimed in any one of claims I to 8, characterized in that, based on the weight of the composition, it contains 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 10 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of amino-functional silicone(s).

10. The composition as claimed in any one of claims I to 9, characterized in that the amino-functional silicone has an amine number of above 0.25 meq/g, preferably of above 0.3 meq/g and in particular of above 0.4 meq/g. 15

11. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the polyhydroxy compound is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol and their mixtures.

12. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in 20 that, based on the weight of the composition, it contains 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.15 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.3 to 2.5% by weight of polyhydroxy compound(s).

13. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that it contains at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV a) of the formula (IV), in which n is 25 the numbers 2, 3, 4 or 5 and at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV b) of the formula (IV), in which n is the numbers 10, 12, 14 or 16, where the weight ratio (IV b) to (IV a) is 10:1 to 1:10, preferably 7.5:1 to 1:5 and in particular 5:1 to 1:1.

14. The composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one substance from the group consisting of the vitamins, 30 provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives, where vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors are preferred which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

15. The composition as claimed in any one of claims I to 14, characterized in that it contains the aminated silicone in the form of a microemulsion having a drop size of 81 between between 1 and 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 70 nm and in particular between 5 and 20 nm.

16. The composition as claimed in any one of claims I to 15, characterized in that it is transparent or translucent. 5

17. The use of a composition as claimed in any one of claims I to 16 for the restructuring of keratinic fibers, in particular human hairs.

18. A process for the treatment of skin or hair, in which a composition as claimed in one of claims I to 16 is applied to the skin and/or the hair, the preparation being rinsed out again after an application time of 0 to 45 minutes. 10

19. A process for the treatment of skin or hair, in which a composition as claimed in one of claims I to 16 is applied to the skin and/or the hair and left there until the next wash.

20. A composition according to claim I and substantially as hereinbefore described with reference to any one of the examples. is Dated

21 June, 2011 Henkel Kommanditgesellshaft auf Aktien Patent Attorneys for the Applicants/Nominated Persons SPRUSON & FERGUSON 20